The "Official" Yamaha RX-A3080, RX-A2080 and RX-A1080 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 66 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1951 of 2597 Old 02-20-2020, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tuskenraider View Post
Another owner of a month old 3080 that is now experiencing random pops. I've heard it on 3 occasions and my wife said it just did it today 3 times. For me it's my HTPC via new certified monoprice HDMI cables on AV2. I've only watched 3 movies on my, also new, Panny 820 and no pops experienced yet there. No issue watching over the air channels with ARC input to receiver. Guess I'll start with moving the HTPC to AV3 first. I run a separate 2 channel amp to power my mains, but I can't tell if they are not popping at this point.

For some reason, mine quit popping (knock on wood). It’s been weeks since I have heard it. I don’t think there was an AVR firmware update.
I did contact Yamaha a while back. They wanted me to return it for service.


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post #1952 of 2597 Old 02-20-2020, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by iphilologos View Post
For some reason, mine quit popping (knock on wood). It’s been weeks since I have heard it. I don’t think there was an AVR firmware update.
I did contact Yamaha a while back. They wanted me to return it for service.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Switching to AV3 for my HTPC did not help, just got a pop the other day steaming through Xfinity via my browser. I set it to decode as DD Surr, though I get no bit-streamed type signal via that source. The receiver will automatically decode as expected when I watch a dvd or blu-ray movie file via VLC player as DD, DDTrueHD or whatever surround audio format is used. I can't seem to recall if it has happened in that scenario. I have not gotten any pops when playing music with Winamp and using 9 channel stereo thankfully, as I listen at very loud volumes when doing so. I can take the receiver into the store I purchased to have them evaluate it, but really don't want to go through the hassle at this point, as I'm not sure they'll be able to reproduce the pop.
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post #1953 of 2597 Old 02-20-2020, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tuskenraider View Post
Switching to AV3 for my HTPC did not help, just got a pop the other day steaming through Xfinity via my browser. I set it to decode as DD Surr, though I get no bit-streamed type signal via that source. The receiver will automatically decode as expected when I watch a dvd or blu-ray movie file via VLC player as DD, DDTrueHD or whatever surround audio format is used. I can't seem to recall if it has happened in that scenario. I have not gotten any pops when playing music with Winamp and using 9 channel stereo thankfully, as I listen at very loud volumes when doing so. I can take the receiver into the store I purchased to have them evaluate it, but really don't want to go through the hassle at this point, as I'm not sure they'll be able to reproduce the pop.
I would suggest to everyone that has POP's to try using the Yamahas RX-Ax080's without AI and/or Auto, just plain Surround Decoder. You would do this if you will change the "scenes", otherwise you'll end up using them again if te scene was saved as such.
In my case, I think I did not had any new/more POP's on mine since I've changed this (knock on wood indeed )!

Quote:
Originally Posted by iphilologos View Post
For some reason, mine quit popping (knock on wood). It’s been weeks since I have heard it. I don’t think there was an AVR firmware update.
I did contact Yamaha a while back. They wanted me to return it for service.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Can you @iphilologos please confirm if you are using either AI or Auto on your "scenes"?
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post #1954 of 2597 Old 02-20-2020, 11:42 PM
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Is this accessible directly from within the control app?

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No, this page is reachable via web-browser to your Yamaha IP.
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post #1955 of 2597 Old 02-21-2020, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Armand29 View Post
Use the setup webpage. It is a godsend when tuning your room as you can leave whatever test tone/movie/etc playing and tweak everything directly with zero interruption.


Much easier to create 2 scenes

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post #1956 of 2597 Old 02-21-2020, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Felix_ro View Post
I would suggest to everyone that has POP's to try using the Yamahas RX-Ax080's without AI and/or Auto, just plain Surround Decoder. You would do this if you will change the "scenes", otherwise you'll end up using them again if te scene was saved as such.
In my case, I think I did not had any new/more POP's on mine since I've changed this (knock on wood indeed )!



Can you @iphilologos please confirm if you are using either AI or Auto on your "scenes"?

No AI, just Auto. But, to be clear, I only heard pops with eARC, which I still use. Sources directly in didn’t ever cause issue for me.


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post #1957 of 2597 Old 02-21-2020, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by iphilologos View Post
No AI, just Auto. But, to be clear, I only heard pops with eARC, which I still use. Sources directly in didn’t ever cause issue for me.


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Thanks, all info is good to be known!

Will probably compile all if someone still have issues after leaving AI and Auto aside.
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post #1958 of 2597 Old 02-21-2020, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Deckard71 View Post
Much easier to create 2 scenes
How so? In the setup webpage you can you just click on the YPAO pattern and it switches instantly while music/tv is playing, plus you can switch between manual, flat, natural etc not just two of them.

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post #1959 of 2597 Old 02-21-2020, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Armand29 View Post
How so? In the setup webpage you can you just click on the YPAO pattern and it switches instantly while music/tv is playing, plus you can switch between manual, flat, natural etc not just two of them.


Is it easier to access a web page than clicking on one button in the remote?

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post #1960 of 2597 Old 02-21-2020, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Felix_ro View Post
I would suggest to everyone that has POP's to try using the Yamahas RX-Ax080's without AI and/or Auto, just plain Surround Decoder. You would do this if you will change the "scenes", otherwise you'll end up using them again if te scene was saved as such.
In my case, I think I did not had any new/more POP's on mine since I've changed this (knock on wood indeed )!



Can you @iphilologos please confirm if you are using either AI or Auto on your "scenes"?
I tried that and still get my pop. So that did not help.

Thanks though.

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post #1961 of 2597 Old 02-21-2020, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Carbo View Post
I tried that and still get my pop. So that did not help.

Thanks though.
Are you ABSOLUTELY SURE that you disabled ALL and ANY "auto" and AI settings?
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post #1962 of 2597 Old 02-21-2020, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Felix_ro View Post
I would suggest to everyone that has POP's to try using the Yamahas RX-Ax080's without AI and/or Auto, just plain Surround Decoder. You would do this if you will change the "scenes", otherwise you'll end up using them again if te scene was saved as such.
In my case, I think I did not had any new/more POP's on mine since I've changed this (knock on wood indeed )!



Can you @iphilologos please confirm if you are using either AI or Auto on your "scenes"?
Not sure where you are heading with the suggestion to disable AI and Auto? So are you referring to Surround:AI with the AI reference? If so, I use this alot with video material w/o any pops. And what is the reference to Auto? Can you please explain?

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post #1963 of 2597 Old 02-21-2020, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Felix_ro View Post
Are you ABSOLUTELY SURE that you disabled ALL and ANY "auto" and AI settings?
I have a 5100, so I don't have AI and like @bwillcox not sure exactly what else you mean by AUTO.

I am thinking you are talking about to use the Standard Surround that is on the DISC. Hence Dolby Digital to Dolby Digital and NOT Dolby Digital to Dolby Surround.

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post #1964 of 2597 Old 02-21-2020, 05:01 PM
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I don't use any AI, ever, so that can be discounted as I cause on my end. My HTPC outputs audio via stereo PCM from the graphics card HDMI. In this mode, movies in VLC player will trigger the receiver to play in the mode the movie is encoded in(DD, DTS, True HD, etc.). Xfinity stream through the Chrome, I'll pick which format to play the sound as, Dsurr for the most part, and which seems to be the source of all popping. Again, for for music, mostly 9 channel stereo. Listening to music all this evening and no pops in this mode ever. Never had pops previously via HTPC on my Onkyo AVR.
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post #1965 of 2597 Old 02-22-2020, 12:43 AM
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Not sure where you are heading with the suggestion to disable AI and Auto? So are you referring to Surround:AI with the AI reference? If so, I use this alot with video material w/o any pops. And what is the reference to Auto? Can you please explain?
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Originally Posted by Carbo View Post
I have a 5100, so I don't have AI and like @bwillcox not sure exactly what else you mean by AUTO.

I am thinking you are talking about to use the Standard Surround that is on the DISC. Hence Dolby Digital to Dolby Digital and NOT Dolby Digital to Dolby Surround.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuskenraider View Post
I don't use any AI, ever, so that can be discounted as I cause on my end. My HTPC outputs audio via stereo PCM from the graphics card HDMI. In this mode, movies in VLC player will trigger the receiver to play in the mode the movie is encoded in(DD, DTS, True HD, etc.). Xfinity stream through the Chrome, I'll pick which format to play the sound as, Dsurr for the most part, and which seems to be the source of all popping. Again, for for music, mostly 9 channel stereo. Listening to music all this evening and no pops in this mode ever. Never had pops previously via HTPC on my Onkyo AVR.
If I was not clear enough in my try to help anyone that thas the POP issue, I'll try to be more now:

- I could only speak about Yamaha's RX-AX080 since I have an RX-A2080 (this I think I've already wrote)

- as far as I know and can see, there's ONLY ONE "AI" and this is the SURROUND: AI setting, to which I was referring to (please check the picture)

- also the "Auto" that's the "SUR. DECODER: Auto" setting is the one which I was referring to (please check the picture)

Other settings I use please find in the pictures attached that I took from my Web Setup.

In all fairness, I only had three (3) or four (4) POP's in about 2 months (January and until now in February 2020), and had them with either my OPPO 203 on HDMI In 1 (which settings you see from the Web Setup), and my Apple TV 4K on HDMI In 2 (similar to identical settings), and I think only had those when watching with my old Epson TW-EH5200 projector on HDMI Out 2, and not with my "newish" projector, Epson TW-EH9400 on HDMI Out 1 (that I use less, just for when I watch 4K content from disks).

If somehow I will going to have another POP with my current settings, I'll come back and let you know!

Hope this helps!
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post #1966 of 2597 Old 02-22-2020, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Carbo View Post
I have a 5100, so I don't have AI and like @bwillcox not sure exactly what else you mean by AUTO.

I am thinking you are talking about to use the Standard Surround that is on the DISC. Hence Dolby Digital to Dolby Digital and NOT Dolby Digital to Dolby Surround.
Sorry to say, but I'm not completely sure what are you referring to with the second of your sentences.
For sure I was referring in my post ONLY/JUST at the settings of Yamaha RX-AX080,
and not about any sources, being them disc or other kinds.
Was that the idea you expressed there?
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post #1967 of 2597 Old 02-22-2020, 09:43 AM
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post #1968 of 2597 Old 02-22-2020, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Felix_ro View Post
Sorry to say, but I'm not completely sure what are you referring to with the second of your sentences.
For sure I was referring in my post ONLY/JUST at the settings of Yamaha RX-AX080,
and not about any sources, being them disc or other kinds.
Was that the idea you expressed there?
I meant that you were trying to say don't use upmix, Dolby Surround and that one should use Straight on the Receiver/Preamp.

I appreciate the help, but this does nothing for me. I only get the issue when using Atmos tracks of a Disc.

It happens on every input. But only from BluRay players and on Atmos Tracks.

I don't get a pop on Atmos from AppleTV, ShieldTV, Etc...

And I don't get a pop on any other Audio sources(Dolby Digital, DTS, DTS:X, Etc...)

1) JVC RS540, Monolith HTP-1, Outlaw Audio 7700 & 7140, Wharfedale Jade 7's series speakers, RSL C34e(Atmos)
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post #1969 of 2597 Old 02-22-2020, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Carbo View Post
I meant that you were trying to say don't use upmix, Dolby Surround and that one should use Straight on the Receiver/Preamp.

I appreciate the help, but this does nothing for me. I only get the issue when using Atmos tracks of a Disc.

It happens on every input. But only from BluRay players and on Atmos Tracks.

I don't get a pop on Atmos from AppleTV, ShieldTV, Etc...

And I don't get a pop on any other Audio sources(Dolby Digital, DTS, DTS:X, Etc...)
Have you tried a different bluray player? I have never experienced pops on either my 5100 when I had it or my 5200. I've been using an Oppo 203 and Panasonic UB9000 and occasionally a Sony X800M2.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #1970 of 2597 Old 02-22-2020, 11:58 AM
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Have you tried a different bluray player? I have never experienced pops on either my 5100 when I had it or my 5200. I've been using an Oppo 203 and Panasonic UB9000 and occasionally a Sony X800M2.
I tried 4. Oppo 203, Panny 9000, Panny 420 and a LG.

Same thing.

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Probably been addressed before but can I hook an Amazon 4k Firestick directly to the back of my rx-a1080 HDMI port?
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Probably been addressed before but can I hook an Amazon 4k Firestick directly to the back of my rx-a1080 HDMI port?
You can but it's pretty wide and may block adjacent HDMI ports. If you use the short HDMI cable that comes with it, it will fit better. You'll still need to apply USB power as normal.

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post #1973 of 2597 Old 02-22-2020, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbo View Post
I meant that you were trying to say don't use upmix, Dolby Surround and that one should use Straight on the Receiver/Preamp.

I appreciate the help, but this does nothing for me. I only get the issue when using Atmos tracks of a Disc.

It happens on every input. But only from BluRay players and on Atmos Tracks.

I don't get a pop on Atmos from AppleTV, ShieldTV, Etc...

And I don't get a pop on any other Audio sources(Dolby Digital, DTS, DTS:X, Etc...)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbo View Post
I tried 4. Oppo 203, Panny 9000, Panny 420 and a LG.

Same thing.
OK, now that we are more sure we’re talking “same language”, I have some specific questions for you, based on your responses:
1. How do you have your Apple TV connected? Directly to the Receiver/AVR, or to your TV and use the ARC?
2. Do you have some sort of power protection or conditioner? Does all your equipment go to the same power outlet or several?
3. If you have just one power source (with or without protection/conditioner), have you tried to reverses the polarity of the power for the Blu-Ray player (turn the plug 180 degrees in the power socket)?

By now, you should figure out that we must think and address any and every single connection point and thing that could somehow induce issues.
Also, I think you might be right, regarding JUST ATMOS content doing this, because along with not using AI and Auto (hope that now everyone understands that I’m only talking about settings on/at the Receiver/AVR), I’ve also disabled the above speakers that I only had configured for enabling the Atmos decoder, but not having the actual speakers mounted yet. RIGHT NOW I’m in the process of mounting them and I’ll then re-enable them and watch some more, and STRONGLY HOPE that the POP’s will NOT come back!
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post #1974 of 2597 Old 02-23-2020, 09:57 AM
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Hello all. I'm looking at upgrading my ancient Pioneer vsx-1020. I am interested in the new A1080, but A4L also has the 3070 for less than $1000 now. Because they're similarly priced I'm not sure which way to go. I will primarily use this for my home theater and not music. With this upgrade I would also like to add Atmos speakers to my system. Currently I have Def Tech BP 8080ST and CS 8080HD center speakers. Any suggestions?
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post #1975 of 2597 Old 02-23-2020, 10:18 AM
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Hello all. I'm looking at upgrading my ancient Pioneer vsx-1020. I am interested in the new A1080, but A4L also has the 3070 for less than $1000 now. Because they're similarly priced I'm not sure which way to go. I will primarily use this for my home theater and not music. With this upgrade I would also like to add Atmos speakers to my system. Currently I have Def Tech BP 8080ST and CS 8080HD center speakers. Any suggestions?
I bought a 3070 from A4L, and I'm happy with it. If you want to eventually run 7.1.4, it's an inexpensive way to go. I found a used Audiosource 2 channel amp on eBay that powers the rear atmos speakers. It sounds fantastic. For the atmos speakers, I went with 4 Polk OWM3s attached to the ceiling.
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post #1976 of 2597 Old 02-23-2020, 10:29 AM
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OK, now that we are more sure we’re talking “same language”, I have some specific questions for you, based on your responses:
1. How do you have your Apple TV connected? Directly to the Receiver/AVR, or to your TV and use the ARC?
2. Do you have some sort of power protection or conditioner? Does all your equipment go to the same power outlet or several?
3. If you have just one power source (with or without protection/conditioner), have you tried to reverses the polarity of the power for the Blu-Ray player (turn the plug 180 degrees in the power socket)?

By now, you should figure out that we must think and address any and every single connection point and thing that could somehow induce issues.
Also, I think you might be right, regarding JUST ATMOS content doing this, because along with not using AI and Auto (hope that now everyone understands that I’m only talking about settings on/at the Receiver/AVR), I’ve also disabled the above speakers that I only had configured for enabling the Atmos decoder, but not having the actual speakers mounted yet. RIGHT NOW I’m in the process of mounting them and I’ll then re-enable them and watch some more, and STRONGLY HOPE that the POP’s will NOT come back!
1. Connected directly to Yamaha 5100 than to projector. No ARC
2. I have Furman Power/Conditioner. Everything is connected to it and the whole system runs on its own circuits.
3. Just gave it a shot and same problem.

Someone is reporting that they think they have a fix by changing the audio output on the Player to bitstream from Auto.

1) JVC RS540, Monolith HTP-1, Outlaw Audio 7700 & 7140, Wharfedale Jade 7's series speakers, RSL C34e(Atmos)
2) LG OLED65B6, Integra DRC-R1.1, Emotiva XPA9, Klipsch RP8000F, Klipsch RP404C, Klipsch RP500SA, Klipsch RP140D
3) Sony XBR55F900, Yamaha CXA5100 & MX5000, GoldenEar SuperSat 3 System
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post #1977 of 2597 Old 02-23-2020, 12:28 PM
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Someone is reporting that they think they have a fix by changing the audio output on the Player to bitstream from Auto.
OMG... I had this set as bitstream from day one when I read the Atmos requirement.
Please share afterwards your results, curious to hear it.

For me, all this day I’ve seen and listened to movies with Atmos from my Oppo 203 and had no POP’s yet (hopefully will never have again).
Hope you too... with bitstream setting...

Last edited by Felix_ro; 02-24-2020 at 01:38 AM.
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post #1978 of 2597 Old 02-23-2020, 04:43 PM
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Just looked and I already had my players set up that way, so no help here.

1) JVC RS540, Monolith HTP-1, Outlaw Audio 7700 & 7140, Wharfedale Jade 7's series speakers, RSL C34e(Atmos)
2) LG OLED65B6, Integra DRC-R1.1, Emotiva XPA9, Klipsch RP8000F, Klipsch RP404C, Klipsch RP500SA, Klipsch RP140D
3) Sony XBR55F900, Yamaha CXA5100 & MX5000, GoldenEar SuperSat 3 System
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post #1979 of 2597 Old 02-24-2020, 05:45 AM
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Just looked and I already had my players set up that way, so no help here.
Yeah, and not setting them to output bitstream would simply mean the wouldn't do Atmos (no meta data available). I really suspect that there is a problem with your 5100. As I have said, I've never had popping with any of my Yamana AVRs or AVPs and I have watched lots of Blu-ray discs having Atmos tracks with them. Esp the 5100 (when I still had it) and my 5200 and 3080 more recently.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #1980 of 2597 Old 02-24-2020, 10:45 AM
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Just looked and I already had my players set up that way, so no help here.
Sorry to hear...

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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
Yeah, and not setting them to output bitstream would simply mean the wouldn't do Atmos (no meta data available). I really suspect that there is a problem with your 5100. As I have said, I've never had popping with any of my Yamana AVRs or AVPs and I have watched lots of Blu-ray discs having Atmos tracks with them. Esp the 5100 (when I still had it) and my 5200 and 3080 more recently.
And as also bwillcox corrected us, without bitstream there wouldn’t be Atmos at all.

Now, after all this, I honestly don’t have many ideas left to try out...
Maybe a complete reset and reconfiguration?
Or, even better, if possible, a downgrade of the firmware (if you know or find out how, please let me know too, please)?
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