The "Official" Yamaha RX-A3080, RX-A2080 and RX-A1080 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 74 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2191 of 2604 Old 04-18-2020, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
What is your setup? 5 channel base, or 7 channel? If you are doing 7.2.4, you need the 3080 or 5200 to do 11 channel processing. If only 5.2.4, then you can get away with a 2080. The 1080 will only do 5.2.2.
Currently 5.1. No plans to go 7.1 or add any height channels because my room is too small.
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post #2192 of 2604 Old 04-19-2020, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by almo89 View Post
Currently 5.1. No plans to go 7.1 or add any height channels because my room is too small.
Well, just as a data point, my den is only 14x12x8 ft where I have a 7.2.4 setup with my 3080 and I do enjoy sound. Perhaps it's just how OCD one gets with such things.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #2193 of 2604 Old 04-19-2020, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by thevinoman View Post
Just received a 2080 as a gift. I know, I know.....so, all I want to do is to set up and configure two pairs of 8 ohm speakers in two channel mode. NO SURROUND, NO ATMOS, nothing fancy, just two pairs of speakers in front of me that I would like to play simultaneously in two channel mode. Do I need to change speaker impedance settings or anything like that? I'm sure it's not that difficult, but thought I would ask. Thanks for any help.
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Originally Posted by thevinoman View Post
I plan on keeping it and reason being is that (other than being a very nice gift....) I have an excellent BR player to attach, an AppleTV 4K, and an Amazon Firestick. And of course it has loads of other capabilities, but my main focus is on two channel for music. I will watch TV occasionally, and a movie or two, but I don't care about surround, etc, etc. Just need to know if I can play two sets of speakers simultaneously with the same full range audio properties of each pair? And, (another question).....is it possible to adjust the outputs of each pair to match one another if the sensitivity of each pair is slightly different? I do realize that it's somewhat overkill, but that's OK, I just want to work with what I've been given.
In addition to the previous replies:
  1. Leave the AVR at the default 8-ohm setting.
  2. Run YPAO when you get speakers hooked up. The AVR can offer PEQ (a fancier form of equalization that will shape your speakers' output to adapt to measured room characteristics), but it will also level set the speakers, and auto-detect if any others are present. You can leave PEQ off, or try it depending upon your speakers.
  3. Depending on what speakers you get, consider getting smaller bookshelf speakers and a suitably powerful sub (the ".1" in multichannel-speak). The 2.1 configuration has grown in popularity, and there are some great quality combos available for even a beer budget. YES, this applies to music, too. Since getting a Hsu VTF-2 subwoofer (a beast that goes down lower than my hearing), I've swapped around my speakers to use better bookshelf models for Left and Right, and music got noticeably better sounding.
  4. At some point, you may consider adding a center channel speaker to better locate dialog and sound FX. Dolby & DTS upmixers can also make some music more pleasing in three-channel mode. Even if you buy only left and right speakers NOW, consider getting some that can be paired with a matched center speaker available separately. SVC and Hsu Research off this. (Hsu also offers packages. In some cases, their a single speaker of their left/right models can be bought for a center channel, which is a near-ideal setup = having left, right, center all the same capabilities and characteristics.)
  5. This forum is packed with aficionados of 5.1, 6.1, 7.1, Atmos, etc, but frankly in some rooms a 3.1 setup is the most you'd want. 2.0, 2.1, 3.1 will do just fine. No apologies or explanation needed. There's a forum section dedicated to two-channel appreciation.
  6. This will be a fine "starter" AVR which should be relatively future-proof. If you later want to use it in another room with more speakers, it will happily adapt and provide all the basics, and then some. It may hold value, too, if you decide to trade up, or down. Enjoy it now. It's a lovely gift.

Hope that all helps.

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post #2194 of 2604 Old 04-20-2020, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kotr View Post
I have a 15 year old Yamaha HTR 6090 A/V receiver. It runs the old 1.2 HDMI system and I'm wondering if it would be to my advantage if I get a newer AVENTAGE AVR with the upgraded running platform. My current setup is: Yamaha HTR 6090
Sony X950G 55"
Klipsch KHW- 5 in wall speakers (8)
Klipsch Synergy Sub 12 Powered Sub
Panasonic DMP BD60 Blu Ray player
I just ordered new high speed with ethernet hdmi cables hoping they would improve my picture but I'm thinking I'm gonna need a new receiver too. I'm not quite sure the TV is giving me the picture it's capable of hence the cable upgrade. I am looking at the Yamaha RX V685 which would allow me to keep my speakers and sub, which I like very much. Thoughts??
Update to post 2189: I purchased an Yamaha Aventage RX-A880 to replace the Yamaha HTR-6090. I also bought Zeskit 8k Ultra HD HDMI cables. I should have it all in place this weekend. I'll post updates.
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post #2195 of 2604 Old 04-21-2020, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post
I've been having some issues with HDMI in this combination:
Apple TV 4K > RX-A1080 > LG 77C9 (I also have projector connected on HDMI out 2 but I selected HDMI output to out 1 only and I only switch 2. on when I need)
I had 3 meter cable between each but for some reason running ATV @ SDR 4K 50Hz 4:4:4 caused occasionally flashes on the screen and sudden short black screens (once maybe every 5 minutes) but that happened only when playing SDR content at mention rate. When playing DV from Netflix @ 24p 4K it worked. Interesting thing was when I ran check HDMI connection in ATV when it was turned on within say 15 minutes it said "connections looks better" but once drop outs happened or it was on for longer it would report some problems maintaining stable connection in that test. Sounds odd how warming up would make any difference in case it was a cable issue?? (or does it somehow "overheat" or strain some error correction circuits causing that).

Since I haven't noticed issues with my UHD BD player in the same setup I decided to try new cable between ATV and RX-A1080 so I replaced that 3 meter cable with 2 meter cable (I happened to have one in unopened retail box at home so I gave it a try). Now it seems I did not notice drop outs or screen going black occasionally when playing 4K SDR 50Hz 4:4:4 material and also check HDMI connection test in ATV gave me "connection looks better" even I had ATV on for like 3 hours.

Anyway, I'm wondering about that test results, that isn't it supposed to say "connection looks good" or something like that instead of "connection looks better", or is that best it can say??
Or is there some limitation with that combination or does it imply I don't have selected Dolby Vision as default format?
I have match dynamic range and frame rate, so I can display 24p, Dolby Vision and HDR when selected title supports it. I rather not keep HDR or DV as default for ATV as it is "burning" my screen for no reason.

All the HDMI cables are only High Speed with Ethernet but they should be decent ones.
Bump. Just wondering if others get Apple TV report HDMI good instead of better doing this test?

I haven't seen it glitching lately after above mentioned one cable replacement but the Apple TV cable test still says connection look better. Shouldn't is say connection looks good? Also when I try test Dolby Vision in the menu it says it has problem maintaining signal even it appears to be working fine when I just manually put it in DV mode?!?!

So I'm just wondering whether I should try getting even better cables to get that test say good, but is there any other reason as it currently seems to be working just fine as it is?


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Originally Posted by hifi59 View Post
I would leave it at 8 ohms. The receiver will see a 3-4 ohm load and will put out even more power than its 8 ohm rating but it will run a bit warmer. This usually isn’t a problem if you have adequate ventilation around the receiver. Ive owned many higher end Yamaha receivers over many years and have alway run them with 4 ohm speakers while the receivers were set to 8 ohm setting. If your change the receivers settings to 4 ohms, you will lose power output but it will run cooler. It’s an FCC thing.
Do you mean it is completely safe and would be even better to leave receiver at 8 ohms even speakers are under 8 ohms? I have 6 x 6 ohm and 1 x 4 ohm speakers connected and I changed receiver to 6 ohms setting. I would get more power out of it if I just put it back to 8 ohms?

My receiver is in a shelf with front side fully open and few holes in the back for the cables and above the receiver is about 6 inch free space between next shelf, so it is relatively well ventilated even it does feel rather warm after using it for couple hours depending on the volume level.

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Originally Posted by almo89 View Post
After seeing the leaked pictures of the possible 2020 lineup, I might need to pick up something from the 80 series before they get discontinued. I'm currently using a Yamaha RX-V1800. It has served me very well and it continues to do so, but I want to eventually upgrade everything to 4k. I have an Emotiva amp, so for my next receiver I would still be using the pre outs. Is there a big difference features and sound wise between the 1080 and 3080 if I were to use pre outs since I won't be using the amp portion of the receiver? Ideally I'd to get the 5200 pre/processor, but it's just too expensive. I figured I can get into the 4k world by getting the RX-A1080 if I'm not sacrificing much.
Not sure that this helps but I upgraded from 1800 to 1080 mostly for 4k I also need now and I've been happy but I'm using receivers build in amplifier. For me 1080 sounds a bit "beefier" (I like that) than 1800.

I was initially waiting for 2020 models but when I saw how ugly they looked in the leaked photos I ran to the shop when I could still get 80 series model that has looks what I prefer.

Last edited by Big Lebowski; 04-21-2020 at 07:46 AM.
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post #2196 of 2604 Old 04-22-2020, 08:25 PM
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Hey guys. Quick question. If I am only running 5 speakers (Center, Fronts, Rears) which configuration should I be using in "Power Amp Assign": Basic or 5.1 Bi-Amp? The illustrations they provide aren't exactly clear to me. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

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post #2197 of 2604 Old 04-23-2020, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Blipstein View Post
Hey guys. Quick question. If I am only running 5 speakers (Center, Fronts, Rears) which configuration should I be using in "Power Amp Assign": Basic or 5.1 Bi-Amp? The illustrations they provide aren't exactly clear to me. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
If you don't use bi-amp - just Basic. )))
Bi-amp - for every front speaker connected 2 amplifier, bass and mid/treble channel.

Last edited by Torch60; 04-23-2020 at 01:02 PM.
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post #2198 of 2604 Old 04-23-2020, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Torch60 View Post
If you don't use bi-amp - just Basic. )))

Bi-amp - for every front speaker connected 2 amplifier, bass and mid/treble channel.
Right, of course. And my speakers are even able to be Bi-amp'd. Wow it's been a while since I've talked about this stuff. Thanks

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post #2199 of 2604 Old 04-24-2020, 10:08 AM
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Hi Guys,

I'm a new A2080 owner and have a couple of tweaks I'd like to employ but don't know how to nor can I find any instructions on how to do them. So, may as well ask the experts. Here goes:

1. My fronts are Mirage OMD-28's with a frequency response at the low end of 25HZ. YPAO appropriately set them to large and appears to set the rolloff at 40HZ. How do I defeat this filter and set the rolloff lower ?

2. When connecting my 2019 Nvidia Shield to the receiver via HDMI, I can't get the receiver to pass the signal when I turn on Dolby Vision. I get a pink screen with some small patterns. SO, I direct connected the shield to the TV and ARC the sound back to the receiver. Unfortunately it appears ARC only works with CEC turned on so when I want to switch away from watching content on the Shield, it shuts down the receiver. Is there a way to use ARC without CEC ?

I'm using Monoprice certified high speed cables so that's not the issue, especially since DV works fine when plugged directly into the TV (LG65B7A). Net of the issue is if I can get the receiver to pass DV, I wouldn't need ARC. Now that I'm using ARC, I need to be able to use ARC without it controlling my receiver powering on/off.

Suggestions based on your similar experiences are much appreciated.

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post #2200 of 2604 Old 04-24-2020, 05:50 PM
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When turning test tone on is test tone supposed to play subwoofer test tone as loud as for other speakers?
In my RX-A1080 I can barely hear subwoofer making any sound while other speakers play it loud and clear. This is with YPAO adjusted volume levels. Is it supposed to work like that?


I can hear LFE effect in BD movies pretty well but with music it is again rather low and from testing bass management with DVE DVD test disc there was some odd things I noticed, like it was not playing say front left low level signals under that speakers crossover from subwoofer. It was the same with all individual channels in that test but the test with all main channels playing low under crossover frequencies came from subwoofer fine.
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post #2201 of 2604 Old 04-25-2020, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by PannyMann View Post
Hi Guys,

I'm a new A2080 owner and have a couple of tweaks I'd like to employ but don't know how to nor can I find any instructions on how to do them. So, may as well ask the experts. Here goes:

1. My fronts are Mirage OMD-28's with a frequency response at the low end of 25HZ. YPAO appropriately set them to large and appears to set the rolloff at 40HZ. How do I defeat this filter and set the rolloff lower ?

2. When connecting my 2019 Nvidia Shield to the receiver via HDMI, I can't get the receiver to pass the signal when I turn on Dolby Vision. I get a pink screen with some small patterns. SO, I direct connected the shield to the TV and ARC the sound back to the receiver. Unfortunately it appears ARC only works with CEC turned on so when I want to switch away from watching content on the Shield, it shuts down the receiver. Is there a way to use ARC without CEC ?

I'm using Monoprice certified high speed cables so that's not the issue, especially since DV works fine when plugged directly into the TV (LG65B7A). Net of the issue is if I can get the receiver to pass DV, I wouldn't need ARC. Now that I'm using ARC, I need to be able to use ARC without it controlling my receiver powering on/off.

Suggestions based on your similar experiences are much appreciated.
1. Your Speakers get fool frequency range at "Large" option. But Sub get only LFE signal in this case.
2. Check HDMI signal settings, read TV and Shield manual.
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post #2202 of 2604 Old 04-25-2020, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post
When turning test tone on is test tone supposed to play subwoofer test tone as loud as for other speakers?
In my RX-A1080 I can barely hear subwoofer making any sound while other speakers play it loud and clear. This is with YPAO adjusted volume levels. Is it supposed to work like that?


I can hear LFE effect in BD movies pretty well but with music it is again rather low and from testing bass management with DVE DVD test disc there was some odd things I noticed, like it was not playing say front left low level signals under that speakers crossover from subwoofer. It was the same with all individual channels in that test but the test with all main channels playing low under crossover frequencies came from subwoofer fine.
Just hearing loud is not corresponding for testing level. Dont worry about this. listen and be happy. If you want much more sub-bass level - you can adjust it manually after YPAO calibration.
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post #2203 of 2604 Old 04-25-2020, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Torch60 View Post
1. Your Speakers get fool frequency range at "Large" option. But Sub get only LFE signal in this case.
2. Check HDMI signal settings, read TV and Shield manual.
Correct, I do get full range when they are set to large. I have NO IDEA how they were set back to small. I think it happened when I re-ran YPAO which for some odd reason sets them to small. I have them set back to large so I'm good. Thanks for getting back, it compelled me to go back and take a look.

I have read the manual and don't see a way to turn on ARC and disable control. Perhaps you can direct me to the page in the manual that describes how it's done. Again, your time is much appreciated...

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post #2204 of 2604 Old 04-25-2020, 06:24 PM
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I have read the manual and don't see a way to turn on ARC and disable control. Perhaps you can direct me to the page in the manual that describes how it's done. Again, your time is much appreciated...
IMHO You should find and resolve reason with connection use AVR. I have not any problem with OPPO-203 Dolby Vision Picture on TV. Every ony device in HDMI chain may be reason for problem...
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post #2205 of 2604 Old 04-25-2020, 07:26 PM
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So, I have the new receiver and cables in place. The picture is much better, with increased detail and more vivid colors. The sound is much improved, too, though that's to be expected when upgrading 15 year old components. I have no idea how to adjust the parametric equalizer so any tips would be deeply appreciated.
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post #2206 of 2604 Old 04-25-2020, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Kotr View Post
So, I have the new receiver and cables in place. The picture is much better, with increased detail and more vivid colors. The sound is much improved, too, though that's to be expected when upgrading 15 year old components. I have no idea how to adjust the parametric equalizer so any tips would be deeply appreciated.
Enjoy to new sound! Make YPAO calibration, read manual, copy result for "man" cell. And try get experience with parametric equalizer... Make change, listen, lean...
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post #2207 of 2604 Old 04-25-2020, 11:56 PM
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I hate to sound like a newb, but I really don't understand the terms and values in the parametric EQ table. Help?
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post #2208 of 2604 Old 04-26-2020, 02:37 AM
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Hi!
Today I've an Onkyo tx-rz730 powering my 7.1 system (Dali oberon 7 front, Dali oberon vokal center, Dynavoice Magic LCR-4 surround and back surround, SVS SB12-nsd sub). I use an external amp, xtz edge a2-300, connected to pre-out for my fronts.

I'm thinking about upgrading my reciever and I have been reading/hearing a lot positive comments about the Yamaha rx-a2080. Have someone made the same switch of reciever that I'm maybe planning to do? Do you guys think that a change will be worth it?

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post #2209 of 2604 Old 04-26-2020, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Torch60 View Post
Just hearing loud is not corresponding for testing level. Dont worry about this. listen and be happy. If you want much more sub-bass level - you can adjust it manually after YPAO calibration.
That's what I was thinking too but want to make sure you actually hear the same thing as I? With YPAO autocalibration done and without changing sub level from that you select test tone in the receiver menu and let it run, you notice that other speakers play noticeable loud test tone but subwoofer practically cannot be much heard at all from the listening position?

It does make sound if I put my ear next to it but the test tone plays very low, even if I rise sub level it is not very loud in receiver's test tone. But it does make nice rumble with movies, so it is working and also while it is running YPAO calibration sub test sounds are played rather loud during that.
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post #2210 of 2604 Old 04-26-2020, 08:47 AM
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I have the 3080 and just bought an Antimode Dual Core 2.0 to calibrate my 2 subs. I also just added Atmos enabled speakers. Do I rerun the YPAO then then the Antimode or Antimode first then YPAO?
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post #2211 of 2604 Old 04-26-2020, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post
That's what I was thinking too but want to make sure you actually hear the same thing as I? With YPAO autocalibration done and without changing sub level from that you select test tone in the receiver menu and let it run, you notice that other speakers play noticeable loud test tone but subwoofer practically cannot be much heard at all from the listening position?

It does make sound if I put my ear next to it but the test tone plays very low, even if I rise sub level it is not very loud in receiver's test tone. But it does make nice rumble with movies, so it is working and also while it is running YPAO calibration sub test sounds are played rather loud during that.
It is normal. You dont should listen sub, but feel it of all you body as vibration, as dino step at "Urasik Park" muvie.
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post #2212 of 2604 Old 04-26-2020, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin_Roy View Post
I have the 3080 and just bought an Antimode Dual Core 2.0 to calibrate my 2 subs. I also just added Atmos enabled speakers. Do I rerun the YPAO then then the Antimode or Antimode first then YPAO?
IMHO Bad idea. Use one alone system of calibration. Ore take result from bough, and make result as sum manually. Hard work.
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post #2213 of 2604 Old 04-26-2020, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post
... Do you mean it is completely safe and would be even better to leave receiver at 8 ohms even speakers are under 8 ohms? I have 6 x 6 ohm and 1 x 4 ohm speakers connected and I changed receiver to 6 ohms setting. I would get more power out of it if I just put it back to 8 ohms?
YES. The 6 ohm setting reduces some internal voltages to pass UL testing of sustained, full volume playback of tones into 6 ohm speakers without overheating. Conditions that you should never duplicate in normal listing. My suggestion: set the Max Volume setting to -10 dB or -15 dB so that you'll never max out the volume while using lower impedance speakers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post
When turning test tone on is test tone supposed to play subwoofer test tone as loud as for other speakers?
In my RX-A1080 I can barely hear subwoofer making any sound while other speakers play it loud and clear. This is with YPAO adjusted volume levels. Is it supposed to work like that?
YES. The subwoofer tone "sounds" quieter than the main speaker test tones, totally normal.

Generally set the gain on your sub so that YPAO auto-sets the level to somewhere from -4 to +4. If it set it to -10 or +10, adjust the sub accordingly and rerun YPAO so that the YPAO set level for the subwoofer is closer to +/- 0, or at least within the adjustment range higher and lower.

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Originally Posted by PannyMann View Post
Correct, I do get full range when they are set to large. I have NO IDEA how they were set back to small. I think it happened when I re-ran YPAO which for some odd reason sets them to small. I have them set back to large so I'm good. Thanks for getting back, it compelled me to go back and take a look.

I have read the manual and don't see a way to turn on ARC and disable control. Perhaps you can direct me to the page in the manual that describes how it's done. Again, your time is much appreciated...
In most Yamahas, HDMI-ARC is only available if HDMI-CEC (aka HDMI Control) is enabled. Such is life.

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Originally Posted by Kotr View Post
I hate to sound like a newb, but I really don't understand the terms and values in the parametric EQ table. Help?
Just play around with it in the "Manual" PEQ configuration. You'll get the hang of it. FYI, "Q" is the width of the adjustment around the center frequency that you're tweaking.
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post #2214 of 2604 Old 04-26-2020, 01:48 PM
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In most Yamahas, HDMI-ARC is only available if HDMI-CEC (aka HDMI Control) is enabled. Such is life.

Thanks Chrome. After fiddling with the CEC control on the TV and receiver in various combos, I was quickly coming to the same conclusion. I'm a 20 year Onkyo "exile" (tired of blown HDMI boards) and am just getting into the Yamaha way.

I do appreciate you taking the time to respond concisely.

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post #2215 of 2604 Old 04-26-2020, 04:27 PM
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Taking your advice, Chrome. I've never had a parametric EQ before, and the most advanced regular EQ I've had was an old Yamaha GE-60 that I had hooked up to a Yamaha M50 and C50 back in the early '80's. This is all new to me and I don't want to screw this up.
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post #2216 of 2604 Old 04-26-2020, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Kotr View Post
Taking your advice, Chrome. I've never had a parametric EQ before, and the most advanced regular EQ I've had was an old Yamaha GE-60 that I had hooked up to a Yamaha M50 and C50 back in the early '80's. This is all new to me and I don't want to screw this up.
You won't screw nuthin' up. You simply copy the Flat, Front, or Natural PEQ adjustments that YPAO makes to Manual, then experiment. When you think you've mucked it up enough, just copy again (or copy another). At any time you can switch to Flat, Front, Natural, or Through (which is no PEQ applied, which is FINE for good speakers in a conventional room).

It's optional, no one will tell you your hi-fi sounds like crap if you don't use a PEQ configuration.

If you think you'll mess things up, use the web interface (click Settings unless they've changed) and make a backup of the config. You can restore that, or reset to factory defaults under Advanced Setup and start over again. See, nothing's so fragile here that you can't track back or just start fresh.
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post #2217 of 2604 Old 04-26-2020, 06:54 PM
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I'm running a 3080. I just bought Pioneer Atmos enabled add-on speakers which are 6ohm and the rest of my speakers are 8ohm. What ohm setting do I put the receiver on? 6 or 8?
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post #2218 of 2604 Old 04-27-2020, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin_Roy View Post
I'm running a 3080. I just bought Pioneer Atmos enabled add-on speakers which are 6ohm and the rest of my speakers are 8ohm. What ohm setting do I put the receiver on? 6 or 8?
8.
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post #2219 of 2604 Old 04-27-2020, 05:28 AM
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YES. The 6 ohm setting reduces some internal voltages to pass UL testing of sustained, full volume playback of tones into 6 ohm speakers without overheating. Conditions that you should never duplicate in normal listing. My suggestion: set the Max Volume setting to -10 dB or -15 dB so that you'll never max out the volume while using lower impedance speakers.
I guess I try experimenting with 8ohm setting on receiver with my 6 and 4 ohm speakers. So it won't do any harm? I almost never run it under -30db (mostly around 40's), so I guess I won't be causing it to heat too much? I also always thought receivers 6 ohm setting would output more power to speakers but obviously it is other way around. I mean even in user manual where they list watt output for different speaker combination, it is always a bit higher (like 10W or so per channel) with 6 ohms. How is that possible? Or are those values they list simply taken with default 8 ohms setting in receiver?


Quote:
YES. The subwoofer tone "sounds" quieter than the main speaker test tones, totally normal.
Thanks for confirming that, so I know it is not a fault.


Quote:
Generally set the gain on your sub so that YPAO auto-sets the level to somewhere from -4 to +4. If it set it to -10 or +10, adjust the sub accordingly and rerun YPAO so that the YPAO set level for the subwoofer is closer to +/- 0, or at least within the adjustment range higher and lower.
Should I try to aim for YPAO subwoofer level equal to 0 or is it ok for leaving it say -5db? I mean will that have any effect on lfe sounds in case the subwoofer sound level is equal in both cases (so that subwoofer volume control is just different to make it even)?

Because in my first YPAO run I had my subwoofer at default volume level and YPAO set it -10db, so I lowered subwoofer volume a bit and run again and it came -5db this time. It sounded rather low so I slightly increased volume in subwoofer. Should I have done rather in receiver, or it is moot point which ever you use to rise it?

I have my TV connected by eARC to my 1080 and I noticed that lip sync is off, but it is so that sound is coming too late using TV's apps like Netflix, so practically lip sync adjustment I could do in receiver menu does not help. Is there anything I could do to that? My TV is LG C9 with latest official software update installed. I have my other gear plugged to receiver and just picture from the receiver router to TV and those have no lip sync problems.

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post #2220 of 2604 Old 04-28-2020, 11:07 AM
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I own a Yamaha 2080 and Im trying to figure out whether to use my condo back in wall speakers as back presence or back surrounds. I'm using my front in wall speakers as front presence and I also have regular speakers as front-left and right, center and surround left and right. These back in wall speakers are about six feet up installed in the back room wall. Since my Yamaha 2080 allows for 9 channels Im trying to figure out what would give me more immersive,holographic sound, using them as back presence or back surrounds? These two sets of in wall speakers were already built into the front and back wall when I bought the condo. thanks for your help

Matt
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