The "Official" Yamaha RX-A3080, RX-A2080 and RX-A1080 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 76 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2251 of 2578 Old 05-04-2020, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin_Roy View Post
Thanks Felix.for the info. Do you have any idea why Atmos no longer shows up on the front display?
Hi @Kevin_Roy ,
Have you done what I said in the post #post59585772?
If yes and still no info on the front display, please follow the info on the second post of this thread, there is the specific info that will tell you how to do it.

Also, I don't know about you guys, but I rarely look at the front of my AVR, usually use the "trick" with the Assign 8 described also in that second post, and see on the screen, but also could change on the front display of the AVR (for me it is specially useful when just listening to music [without any display/screen on], to switch between singer/song/decoder/source/etc. information of the currently playing source).

Hope this helps! (and if it is, please "like"-it and the original poster of the info, so that others know it is useful)
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post #2252 of 2578 Old 05-04-2020, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Felix_ro View Post
I'm really glad for you both that you don't have any POP's using AI or Auto on your AVR's.
The idea is that I HAD those POP's, but since I refrain of using either of those modes, I had no more POP's.
It was not my intent to challenge your experience, just wanted to point out that it doesn't seem to be a systemic issue with all of these AVRs. Sorry you seem to have taken it that way. I was actually trying to help both you and others to show that Surround:AI may not always be a bad thing.

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Maybe on your units you never had those POP's and maybe this is a issue/problem with just "some" of the products, maybe newly fabricated (I purchased mine in November 2019, for exaple).
BTW, do you have installed the latest 1.80 firmware? I do not have yet!
Yes, all three of my 2018 Yamaha AVR/AVPs have been updated. However, I have had these units for almost two years now w/o the problem you have experienced.

Quote:
Actually, I've started some time ago to EXCLUSIVELY use the "Neural:X" mode, and ALL and EVERYTHING I watch sounds much better with this mode, and when there's an Atmos content, this is also decoded accordingly, and displays as Atmos/TrueHD.
And honestly, sometimes I press the AI to compare the same "scene", and it sounds different, usually worse/bad; for example, I LOVE the song at the end of Coraline, and WITH AI engaged, the solo singing in this song, does not sound like coming from the front/"the stage" and "so close" and "intimate" (whispered) as it is normal and intended, but from "somewhere above" and "all-over-around", which, for me is not correct at all, and is the same with the choir in the same song, instead to seem to come from the back of the main/solo singer, sounds as comming from "somewhere above" and "all-over-around", completely destroying the idea of a "stage" and the EXTREME presence (whispered) of the main/solo singer that is intended in the song. If you don't know this song, just try it, and you'll understand what I meant, and maybe convince you the same as it did to me, that the AI (at least) does not always do a "good job".
I usually use Dolby Surround (Dsur) for most material (and I listen to far more music than watch video). In the beginning I did some comparisons between Neural:X and Dsur and in my environment and to my ears I preferred Dsur, though I did find them to be quite simillar. My main two systems are 7.2.4 configurations with the presence speakers located at height positions (all installed long before Atmos and Neural:X came on the scene).

I admit that some video material I watch/listen to sounds better to me in the Dsur mode. The advantage to me for Surround:AI is that movie dialog is often easier to understand than with the other modes. It tends to stand out. Could be my hearing hasn't improved with age...

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post #2253 of 2578 Old 05-04-2020, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
It was not my intent to challenge your experience, just wanted to point out that it doesn't seem to be a systemic issue with all of these AVRs. Sorry you seem to have taken it that way. I was actually trying to help both you and others to show that Surround:AI may not always be a bad thing.
Nope, I did NOT taken it this way, cause I think we're all here to share info and experiences that will help us to achieve better experiences for ourselves, or getting help when something is not "quite as we hoped to be";
and in this specific instance I just wanted to pinpoint that there are MANY of us that got their Yamaha AVR's later than you, and CLEARLY also MANY of us got those POP's, no matter were we are from (and consequently where the equipment was build or build for) Europe, Eastern Europe or US (if you do not saw this yet, check back to this thread and count how many have complained having POP's). I consider this MOST USEFUL for someone that just got his/her Yamaha AVR (or is planning to), since he/she will most likely get one of those that do make POP's when AI or Auto is used or DON'T get POP's when those are NOT used (in my case at least).

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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
Yes, all three of my 2018 Yamaha AVR/AVPs have been updated. However, I have had these units for almost two years now w/o the problem you have experienced.
Again, we see here that you have units that were clearly constructed/produced way before mine, or those that had/have POP's.
But is good to know that the latest firmware is not doing more bad things/issues (in your case at least), and I think I will do my upgrade too, cause until now I refrained from doing so.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
I usually use Dolby Surround (Dsur) for most material (and I listen to far more music than watch video). In the beginning I did some comparisons between Neural:X and Dsur and in my environment and to my ears I preferred Dsur, though I did find them to be quite simillar. My main two systems are 7.2.4 configurations with the presence speakers located at height positions (all installed long before Atmos and Neural:X came on the scene).

I admit that some video material I watch/listen to sounds better to me in the Dsur mode. The advantage to me for Surround:AI is that movie dialog is often easier to understand than with the other modes. It tends to stand out. Could be my hearing hasn't improved with age...
Sure, for music it is clear that we will use either NO decoder at all (STRAIGHT or even PURE DIRECT), or, in my case, for SACD's I always use Dsur (although the Neural:X does sound EXACTLY the same to me, so I'm using it instead of Dsur).

But for movies, I know from experience that the "Neo:6 Cinema" usually boost the center/dialogue in a movie, and for sure AI does that too, but do you know that you can also boost your Center chanel with the functions in the AVR?
If I recall correctly is called "Dialog Lift" or similar, and I'm using it since my previous Yamaha, the RX-A2040 (that I got in 2014 or 2015, can't recall exactly). Furthermore, the movies that have DTS, by using Neural:X allow you to furtrher adjust the volume just for the dialogue/speach, with some distinct functions that are right there in the "Option" menu (the four horizontal lines on the remote). Maybe this will help you better with your hearing.
I could say that I had only found one or two disks (movies) that where hard to understand the dialogue, but each time I could do something with the settings provided by the AVR (either the 40 or 80), and when I purchased the current AVR (2080), I also got another center channel speaker, an Klipsch R-34C, which sounded MUCH MORE lowder and "right there" (I don't know how exactly to say it), but was quite disturbing being TOO "present" compared with my other speakers which are all from the same producer and same model; therefore I've changed back with my own center, which sounds lot better and fuller to me (and also to someone else that come and observed this).

So I guess that that center Klipsch is specially designed to bring the speach up and to make it clear, so I would suggest to try one of their speakers, one that fits best with your other speakers, and, who knows, you'll enjoy the movies more (with better dialogue), and then maybe, even the Neural:X mode will sound to you better too...
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post #2254 of 2578 Old 05-04-2020, 08:30 AM
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So, if I purchase directly from Amazon (who is shown on Yamaha's website as an Authorized Dealer) and their price when I purchased was less than MSRP, I have no warranty?
Most manufacturers will honor the warranty from any dealer due to www.ftc.gov . I never said no warranty, I said authorized dealer's have to advertise at MSRP. Amazon third party sellers are what they are, some are authorized some are not. In the end, on that day you bought, your dealer violated there contracts they signed knowingly or on accident.
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post #2255 of 2578 Old 05-04-2020, 08:36 AM
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Most manufacturers will honor the warranty from any dealer due to www.ftc.gov . I never said no warranty, I said authorized dealer's have to advertise at MSRP. Amazon third party sellers are what they are, some are authorized some are not. In the end, on that day you bought, your dealer violated there contracts they signed knowingly or on accident.
Like I stated, it was directly from Amazon, not a 3rd party seller.

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post #2256 of 2578 Old 05-04-2020, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by GTOknight View Post
Hi All,

I have an a3080 with a 5.1.4 setup. 5 primary are going to a separate 5 channel amp, and the 4 ceiling presence speakers are powered by the a3080. Everything is working pretty well, but am looking to add a zone 2 to power some patio speakers and I am seeing conflicting information and reading the manual hasn't helped.

I am looking to get an additional 2 channel amplifier to power my zone 2 speakers, but I am unsure if this is supported based on how I have things hooked up. I do not see a Power Amp Assign config that matches what I am looking for, so would appreciate any feedback. The closest would be the 5.2.4 Bi-Amp. Ideally I would leverage the zone2 preouts into the external 2 channel amp, and still have the .4 speakers powered from the a3080.

Seems like my assumptions on the 11 channel processing was incorrect and will likely need to have a completely different solution for my pation :-/

Advice/Help is much appreciated!

Thanks,
Greg

The A3080 can do this with no problem. I have an A3080 with a 7.2.4 setup plus a Zone 2 pair for my back porch. It works fine, and I can run them all simultaneously with no need to sacrifice a presence pair or anything. (In fact, I just tested it with an Atmos Blu-Ray in the main room and internet radio playing in Zone 2. All speakers were operating normally.) I use a Power Amp Assign of "7.2.4 [ext. Front]", with my Front LR and Center speakers and Zone 2 speakers all on an external amp. The surrounds and overheads are all driven by the A3080. (I could connect the surrounds to an external amp as well, but don't see the need.)
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post #2257 of 2578 Old 05-04-2020, 05:06 PM
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Need help this will be kinda long winded to explain. I have the A3080.
I have a PC, Nvidia Shield, Xbox and PC setup as a media server connected to the AVR.
What is happening is when I am on the main PC it will just lock up the screen will go black and the "piano wallpaper" will come up like there is not signal.
No when it was not getting a signal I hit CtrAltDel, I then cut off the AVR and turned it back on and the picture came and the Windows lock screen was up. So this made me think the PC is not locking up it has to be something in either the AVR or HDMI cable or connection.
I does this a few times a week, now yesterday I was on the PC and switched over to the Shield, it showed the Shield input on the AVR, but was still showing the PC screen also tried with Xbox at same time and same result.
I had to actually turn the PC off for it show the Shield, and once the PC was back up it was switching properly.

Does any of this sound like and HDMI board problem, or should I try some new, different brand cables?
So for the long post just hard to explain it all.

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post #2258 of 2578 Old 05-05-2020, 01:53 AM
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Try resetting the video board via the Advanced Menu.
It does sound like an EDID issue being caused by your PC...
Have you updated the graphics card on your computer?
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post #2259 of 2578 Old 05-05-2020, 05:18 AM
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Thinking of getting a 1080 or 2080 to replace my rxv1800. I'm not sure I'll be going the Atmos route though so this might remain a 5.1 system for now. Would there be any discernible difference in sound quality most importantly? I saw the new models to be released later this year and I'm not a fan of the aesthetics.
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post #2260 of 2578 Old 05-05-2020, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunnersfella View Post
Try resetting the video board via the Advanced Menu.
It does sound like an EDID issue being caused by your PC...
Have you updated the graphics card on your computer?
Hey thanks for the response, I am looking at the manual right now and under "Advanced Menu" I see a "4K Mode" "Selects the HDMI 4K (60 Hz/50 Hz) signal format."
Is this the setting you are talking about? If so will check that out when I get home today.

Thanks.

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post #2261 of 2578 Old 05-05-2020, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by abilyeu View Post
The A3080 can do this with no problem. I have an A3080 with a 7.2.4 setup plus a Zone 2 pair for my back porch. It works fine, and I can run them all simultaneously with no need to sacrifice a presence pair or anything. (In fact, I just tested it with an Atmos Blu-Ray in the main room and internet radio playing in Zone 2. All speakers were operating normally.) I use a Power Amp Assign of "7.2.4 [ext. Front]", with my Front LR and Center speakers and Zone 2 speakers all on an external amp. The surrounds and overheads are all driven by the A3080. (I could connect the surrounds to an external amp as well, but don't see the need.)
How do you have everything hooked up? with 7.4 that eats up all 11 channels, 2 of which have to be powered externally. So you have the zone 2 (rear or front presence speakers) preout going to your external amp. Then you have the 4 ceiling presence speakers hardwired to the 3080, so you are doing double duty on the zone2, using both preout and wired? If that is the case, i can choose 5.1.4 and it should work (no luck as of yet though).

Any pics or additional info would be much appreciated
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post #2262 of 2578 Old 05-05-2020, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by abilyeu View Post
The A3080 can do this with no problem. I have an A3080 with a 7.2.4 setup plus a Zone 2 pair for my back porch. It works fine, and I can run them all simultaneously with no need to sacrifice a presence pair or anything. (In fact, I just tested it with an Atmos Blu-Ray in the main room and internet radio playing in Zone 2. All speakers were operating normally.) I use a Power Amp Assign of "7.2.4 [ext. Front]", with my Front LR and Center speakers and Zone 2 speakers all on an external amp. The surrounds and overheads are all driven by the A3080. (I could connect the surrounds to an external amp as well, but don't see the need.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOknight View Post
How do you have everything hooked up? with 7.4 that eats up all 11 channels, 2 of which have to be powered externally. So you have the zone 2 (rear or front presence speakers) preout going to your external amp. Then you have the 4 ceiling presence speakers hardwired to the 3080, so you are doing double duty on the zone2, using both preout and wired? If that is the case, i can choose 5.1.4 and it should work (no luck as of yet though).

Any pics or additional info would be much appreciated

This shows how all of my speakers are connected. There are 8 channels driven by the receiver (the surrounds and tops), and three on the external amp (Front Left, Center, Right). The Zone 2 is also on the external amp. I know that seems like 13 channels, but the receiver doesn't see it that way.




Whether the Extra Sp1&2 terminals and Zone pre-outs control the presence speakers or zone speakers is determined by the Power Amp Assign setting. I use the "7.2.4 [ext. Front]" setting, which defines the Extra Sp1 and Extra Sp2 terminals as presence speakers, and the Zone pre-outs as Zone speakers. You only need to use a Power Amp Assign setting with "Zone" in the name if you want to drive that zone from the Extra Sp terminals.


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post #2263 of 2578 Old 05-06-2020, 02:30 PM
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What’s the general consensus on A1? I have had the 3080 for awhile now and really haven’t messed with it much.
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post #2264 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 05:39 AM
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What’s the general consensus on A1? I have had the 3080 for awhile now and really haven’t messed with it much.
I use if for video sources where I find that it improves my ability to understand the dialog, esp when there are alot of other sounds involved (music, FX, etc.).
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post #2265 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 08:45 AM
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Can anyone confirm the A1080 has separate control for dual subs (separate distance and level settings)? I am assuming Yamaha only does PEQ for the subs combined and not separately, correct?


Are there any other lower models with separate dual sub control capability?

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post #2266 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 09:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Can anyone confirm the A1080 has separate control for dual subs (separate distance and level settings)? I am assuming Yamaha only does PEQ for the subs combined and not separately, correct?


Are there any other lower models with separate dual sub control capability?
Only the Two Top Tier 2080/3080 models have 2 individual sub outs.
The 1080 has an internal Y-Splitter...so same EQ/Distance/Level for both.

Same way its been for the past 8 years.
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post #2267 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by PioManiac View Post
Only the Two Top Tier 2080/3080 models have 2 individual sub outs.
The 1080 has an internal Y-Splitter...so same EQ/Distance/Level for both.

Same way its been for the past 8 years.

thanks.


How does yamaha indicate this on their website?

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post #2268 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by badtlc View Post
thanks.


How does yamaha indicate this on their website?
They Don't, it's up to consumers to do their own research, preferably before making a purchase (caveat emptor)

When considering a new purchase I typically download PDF user manuals to start my research,
Then head to user based forums (like AVS) for further inquiries and real world experience.





My RX-A3070 Has individual dual sub outputs, each have separate PEQ (4 Bands per channel)
Unlike Denon/Marantz Audyssey xt32, YPAO does not combine the Two together in the final stages of Room EQ.

...Not an issue for 1080 users though
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post #2269 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 11:10 AM
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I use if for video sources where I find that it improves my ability to understand the dialog, esp when there are alot of other sounds involved (music, FX, etc.).
Thanks for the reply. When I switch between A1 and direct I can’t tell much difference but I have read others say that it improves dialogue. Some movies are just plain hard to hear through the center channel so I will need to try this out.
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post #2270 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by PioManiac View Post
They Don't, it's up to consumers to do their own research, preferably before making a purchase (caveat emptor)

When considering a new purchase I typically download PDF user manuals to start my research,
Then head to user based forums (like AVS) for further inquiries and real world experience.

My RX-A3070 Has individual dual sub outputs, each have separate PEQ (4 Bands per channel)
Unlike Denon/Marantz Audyssey xt32, YPAO does not combine the Two together in the final stages of Room EQ.

...Not an issue for 1080 users though

Thank you so much for that. I had gone through the manuals trying to find the answers and was unsuccessful. I was looking for section where the described the abilities more generally. I didn't think the only reference to it would be that instead of subwoofer it says Sub1 and Sub2.

That is really great it has separate PEQ for each sub. I wish they would bring this down to the A780 level to have a leg up on the competition.

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post #2271 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badtlc View Post
Thank you so much for that. I had gone through the manuals trying to find the answers and was unsuccessful. I was looking for section where the described the abilities more generally. I didn't think the only reference to it would be that instead of subwoofer it says Sub1 and Sub2.

That is really great it has separate PEQ for each sub. I wish they would bring this down to the A780 level to have a leg up on the competition.
YPAO Sub EQ has been a shortfall on all Yamaha's as far back as I can remember.

The YPAO software (and cheap plastic mic) are limited to frequencies above 31.3Hz (and 4 Bands of EQ)

If you have REW (https://www.roomeqwizard.com/)
and a $75 Umik-1 mic from https://www.minidsp.com/products
You can measure your room response and manually PEQ down to 15.9Hz on the latest Yamaha models.

IMHO, if you prefer Yamaha over Denon/Marantz units overall, and have Multiple subs
Spend another $205 and grab a miniDSP 2x4HD that can run up to 4 sub channels
each with individual Delay/Phase/Level with up to 10 PEQ slots per channel all the way down to 10Hz.

You can actually import the settings from REW to your miniDSP

...and then you can access a Custom BEQ (BassEQ) library with 1200+ movies
that have been fixed where studios have failed to deliver sufficient ULF/LFE (link in my Sig)
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Last edited by PioManiac; 05-07-2020 at 12:36 PM.
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post #2272 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 12:23 PM
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Is there still only one universal xover on the 1080/2080 or can you select seperate crossovers for front/rear/center.
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post #2273 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 12:54 PM
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Hi!

New owner of 2080.
Three questions.

1. I've run the ypao two times. First time with 5 points measure and then with 8 all points. Both times the sub's level is set to -0,5db. With my previous reciever I always ended upp at around -6db and therefore had more space to trim up the sub. Should I change anything or not?
I've to say that the sub-level when listening to music and watching movies is pretty strong as it is.

2. I run a 7.1-system (Dali oberon 7 fronts, Oberon Vokal center, Dynavoice Lcr4-v3 surr+back surr, SVS SB12-nsd sub). I use an external amp for my front speakers. I don't bi-amp or use any other zone. Under "settings/power amp settings" I've chosen the "basic". Is it right when I use an external amp for the fronts?

3. My front speakers has specs. nominal impedance 6ohm, center 4ohm, surr+back surr 4-8ohm. I read an article here at avs forum about to set the reciever to 8ohm all times. Do you think I can runs it at 8ohm?

I've to say that this reciever sounds awesome I thought my previous one delivered good sound but this one is a big level up

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post #2274 of 2578 Old 05-07-2020, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PioManiac View Post
YPAO Sub EQ has been a shortfall on all Yamaha's as far back as I can remember.

The YPAO software (and cheap plastic mic) are limited to frequencies above 31.3Hz (and 4 Bands of EQ)

If you have REW (https://www.roomeqwizard.com/)
and a $75 Umik-1 mic from https://www.minidsp.com/products
You can measure your room response and manually PEQ down to 15.9Hz on the latest Yamaha models.

IMHO, if you prefer Yamaha over Denon/Marantz units overall, and have Multiple subs
Spend another $205 and grab a miniDSP 2x4HD that can run up to 4 sub channels
each with individual Delay/Phase/Level with up to 10 PEQ slots per channel all the way down to 10Hz.

You can actually import the settings from REW to your miniDSP

...and then you can access a Custom BEQ (BassEQ) library with 1200+ movies
that have been fixed where studios have failed to deliver sufficient ULF/LFE (link in my Sig)

I don't care about the <30Hz issue. Like you said, as long as you have manual PEQ capability, fire up REW and do it right.

Front: Polk S55
Center: Polk S30
Rear: Polk S10
Sub: P̶L̶-̶2̶0̶0̶I̶I̶ | (̶2̶)̶ ̶F̶V̶X̶1̶2̶ | V1812
AVR: Denon AVR-X3500H
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post #2275 of 2578 Old 05-08-2020, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by keeper View Post
Thanks for the reply. When I switch between A1 and direct I can’t tell much difference but I have read others say that it improves dialogue. Some movies are just plain hard to hear through the center channel so I will need to try this out.
I'm 76 with hearing aids. So, I've tried everything to improve audio. My Yamaha 5200 is definitely superior to my prior Dennon. Regarding "AI", I've found that it helps "a lot" on some movies and "is too boomy" on others. Bottom line is that I normally try AI vs Straight and pick the one I like the best. If all else fails, I implement sub titles. As they say, "getting old sucks; however it beats the alternative"!

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post #2276 of 2578 Old 05-09-2020, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlb View Post
I'm 76 with hearing aids. So, I've tried everything to improve audio. My Yamaha 5200 is definitely superior to my prior Dennon. Regarding "AI", I've found that it helps "a lot" on some movies and "is too boomy" on others. Bottom line is that I normally try AI vs Straight and pick the one I like the best. If all else fails, I implement sub titles. As they say, "getting old sucks; however it beats the alternative"!
I prefer the saying "getting old ain't for sissies"! (63, and a hearing aid wearer since I was 50)

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post #2277 of 2578 Old 05-09-2020, 03:17 PM
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Guys, what's a decent, but reasonably priced stereo AVR/amp to pair w/Yamaha A3080 (I actually have a 3050, but asking here to see newer, in-stock recommendations)? Want to go from 5.2.4 to 7.2.4.

Hi-deft Media Keen Videosaurus

Last edited by Brajesh; 05-09-2020 at 06:00 PM.
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post #2278 of 2578 Old 05-09-2020, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brajesh View Post
Guys, what a decent, but reasonably priced stereo AVR/amp to pair w/Yamaha A3080 (I actually have a 3050, but asking here to see newer, in-stock recommendations)? Want to go from 5.2.4 to 7.2.4.
If you only need an additional 2 channels.

I am a far of schiit gear: https://www.schiit.com/products/vidar
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post #2279 of 2578 Old 05-09-2020, 03:39 PM
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Thanks, may consider Schiit.This is for powering front (or more likely) my rear ceiling presence speakers... how would these be?


- Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver (just $105 refurb), or

- Technical Pro Torque Audio 2U Professional 2CH Power Amplifier ($70 at walmart.com)

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post #2280 of 2578 Old 05-09-2020, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brajesh View Post
Thanks, may consider Schiit.This is for powering front (or more likely) my rear ceiling presence speakers... how would these be?


- Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver (just $105 refurb), or

- Technical Pro Torque Audio 2U Professional 2CH Power Amplifier ($70 at walmart.com)
To get more accurate recommendations you would need to say what speakers you want to power. What impedance they are and the recommended power they take.
I personally would get better, more powerful, and possibly cleaner power for your front speakers and use the in-AVR amps for the presence speakers.
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