The "Official" Yamaha RX-A3080, RX-A2080 and RX-A1080 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 8 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #211 of 2597 Old 12-07-2018, 08:44 AM
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Got a new delivery day before yesterday... right out of the gate however, my 50ft redmere from 2013 will no longer cut it. Can't pass a 4k signal.

New cable ordered and limping by until then.

Pics are a comparison from my old rx-a3000 to the new rx-a3080. The 3080 is deeper and taller.
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post #212 of 2597 Old 12-07-2018, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
Is there some setting for video processing in the 1080 that needs to be correct?
Good question. Not sure.
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post #213 of 2597 Old 12-07-2018, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by stormwind13 View Post
Got a new delivery day before yesterday... right out of the gate however, my 50ft redmere from 2013 will no longer cut it. Can't pass a 4k signal.
For 18Gbps I think the general consensus has remained that the optical HDMI cables are a sure thing at that length. Very little else is.
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post #214 of 2597 Old 12-07-2018, 12:55 PM
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Do these receivers have a method for "level" sound that fights the evil high volume of commercials? I've read somewhere that they have a method of controlling high volumes from "special effects" and "commercials"; but I can't find an applicable setting anyplace in the manuals?

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post #215 of 2597 Old 12-07-2018, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PioManiac View Post
Well most on AVS are reporting the Surround AI is useless,
So are there any other things on the list you gain worth what you have to give up?
Only you can decide.

Some here would have you believe its worth it just for the remote alone,
So I guess it all depends on what your priorities are, not ours

From the First Post:



The 3060 and 3070 are pretty much the same,
and the only major difference from those over the 3050 was Dolby Vision
...and the Enhanced DSP mode.
thinking of going with one of these, but what did you mean by "remote" was a huge plus. looks basic to me...

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post #216 of 2597 Old 12-07-2018, 04:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by airgas1998 View Post
thinking of going with one of these, but what did you mean by "remote" was a huge plus. looks basic to me...
I only said it was different
I didn't say anywhere it was a Huge plus,
...although some would have you believe it is lol.
Some even claimed it was Aluminum, later proven to be false. (it is plastic)

The main difference is that it's now back-lit
and you have direct access to 8 Scene settings vs 4 Scene buttons on the previous models.
(to access all 12 scenes on the previous remote meant using the GUI or AV Controller App)
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post #217 of 2597 Old 12-07-2018, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MizzouTiger View Post
So, I just purchased the 1080 today. Got everything pretty much set up and ran YPAO for 8 positions.

The problem I have is with the component video input. I have the Wii connected to the component AV-1 (A) with the audio from the Wii connected to Audio2. I am not getting any video out to the TV at all. I went into Setup -> System -> Input Assignment and have Audio 2 assigned to component (A). When I cycle through the inputs and get to Audio2, I have the sound output from the Wii, but no video. What am I doing wrong?
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I guess I can. Then I would need to go back to Input Assignment and associate Component (A) to AV-1, correct?

But, I have the Blu-Ray player connected to HDMI AV-1. So, how do you distinguish between component or HDMI when selecting input AV-1?
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Ok, I moved the Blu-Ray down to HDMI AV-4. I have the Wii component video cables plugged into AV-1 and the audio cables plugged into AV-1. Still only have sound and no video - just the piano wall paper. All of the input assignments are back to where they were out of the box.
Only use one input per labeled input. I.e. HDMI input on AV1, then component and coax on AV2, etc.

I'll bet a steak dinner with all the trimmings that your Wii is set to a component video scan format that isn't passed through to HDMI out by the 1080. Check the HDMI conversion and upscale chart in your OM, p. 158. Then set the HDMI Video modes and resolution to pass through or Auto.

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post #218 of 2597 Old 12-08-2018, 06:17 AM
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My rx-a3080 (4 weeks old) HDMI 1 out quit working overnight. TV just says no signal. I've plugged another device into the TV same input to make sure it is not the problem. I've tried HDMI 2 on the receiver, same thing. HDMI inputs on the receiver still work as I can get sound. Anyone else running into this? Suggestions? thanks!

edit: Reset receiver with straight button power on. Working now. Also, now realized my issue may have been as simple as the hdmi output had been changed from the remote. Silly me.

Last edited by gitarzan; 12-08-2018 at 09:29 AM.
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post #219 of 2597 Old 12-08-2018, 08:31 AM
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For a 5.2 system... not room or interest for more, what should I get?

The A1080, A2080, A3080?
I have not seen a complete list of difference between these modells?


I might use 4ohm speakers if that has any say??
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post #220 of 2597 Old 12-08-2018, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gitarzan View Post
My rx-a3080 (4 weeks old) HDMI 1 out quit working overnight. TV just says no signal. I've plugged another device into the TV same input to make sure it is not the problem. I've tried HDMI 2 on the receiver, same thing. HDMI inputs on the receiver still work as I can get sound. Anyone else running into this? Suggestions? thanks!
Start with the simple things. Loss of video can be a result of a failed HDCP handshake. The only way to resolve that is to power off all devices.
The cause of a failed handshake is usually a bad cable. (And yes cables can just go bad overnight). So anyway, start with putting a new cable in from AVR to TV.
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post #221 of 2597 Old 12-08-2018, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northman83 View Post
For a 5.2 system... not room or interest for more, what should I get?

The A1080, A2080, A3080?
I have not seen a complete list of difference between these modells?


I might use 4ohm speakers if that has any say??
IMO the 3080 is not necessary for a terminal 5.2. Especially since the 2080 is so close except for a few things like XLR and DAC tweak settings, among a few others things.

I went with the 2080 with the though that I would be terminal 3.2, I'm now at 2.2. Of course I could always change my my mind and add more channels above 3.2.

The other option is go with the 1080, and if you like the sound stay put. Or add an outboard amp for front L/R if desired.

I'm no expert but the 2080 might be the best middle road approach since you're concerned about powering the 4 ohm speakers. And you could add an amp for the front L/R with that too.

My tentative plan going forward is possible add center for 3.2. With my 8 ohms speakers and only three channels running I'm sure it will have enough power.

The other difference between the 1080 and 2080 is the 2080 has independent sub level control whereas the 1080 does not.

I'm really happy with my 2080 for both 2 channel listening and movies.

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post #222 of 2597 Old 12-08-2018, 09:54 AM
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Been messing around with the 3080 for about a week or so. Still can't understand why I have to increase the volume output about 10dB to have the same results I had with the 3020 it replaced. Could this be some sort of a malfunction? I can return it or replace it, if it comes to that.

Also, YPAO gives me different results every time I run it, under the exact same scenario. It changes dramatically. On top of that, it tells me that my front Atmos enabled speakers (RP-280FA) distance are like 31.4ft on the left and 19.2ft on the right. I keep running YPAO and eventually it gets similar distances or changes the right speaker to a much longer distance than the left. This is valid only for the Atmos speakers. It is OK for the LR ones. This really is driving me crazy. Thoughts?

Listening to CD music is not that great also, either from the Oppo 105 or 205 (both HDMI connected).

And I need to shake my remote so it can light up.

I wish my 3020 could play Atmos...
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post #223 of 2597 Old 12-08-2018, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
Start with the simple things. Loss of video can be a result of a failed HDCP handshake. The only way to resolve that is to power off all devices.
The cause of a failed handshake is usually a bad cable. (And yes cables can just go bad overnight). So anyway, start with putting a new cable in from AVR to TV.
Working now after a system reset via power and straight button. Now realize problem may have been as simple as the hdmi output may have been set to the wrong output via the remote. thanks
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post #224 of 2597 Old 12-08-2018, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Only use one input per labeled input. I.e. HDMI input on AV1, then component and coax on AV2, etc.

I'll bet a steak dinner with all the trimmings that your Wii is set to a component video scan format that isn't passed through to HDMI out by the 1080. Check the HDMI conversion and upscale chart in your OM, p. 158. Then set the HDMI Video modes and resolution to pass through or Auto.
According to the HDMI conversion table on page 158 of the owner's manual, the 1080 can accept 480i and 480p through the component video inputs. Right now, the Wii is set to 480i - but even if it were set to 480p, it should work with the component video connection with the 1080. I have the HDMI video resolution set to Auto on the 1080.

Also, I just tried the Wii again. Picture came up on the TV, but is had lines going through it and it would come and go. I still think it's the component cables from the Wii that is the problem.
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post #225 of 2597 Old 12-08-2018, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SleepyKat View Post
Been messing around with the 3080 for about a week or so. Still can't understand why I have to increase the volume output about 10dB to have the same results I had with the 3020 it replaced. Could this be some sort of a malfunction? I can return it or replace it, if it comes to that.
I'm thinking the 3020 has "0db" as a max output. The later models use "+16db" as a max output. In any case don't sweat it. But make sure your channel levels aren't being set more than -3db in YPAO. If they are, increase the sub gain and run it again. But its all relative, set it wherever you need to.

Quote:
Also, YPAO gives me different results every time I run it, under the exact same scenario. It changes dramatically.
Apparently its not the exact same conditions. Make sure you have eliminated ALL ambient noise while running it and do not stand in the room.

Quote:
On top of that, it tells me that my front Atmos enabled speakers (RP-280FA) distance are like 31.4ft on the left and 19.2ft on the right. I keep running YPAO and eventually it gets similar distances or changes the right speaker to a much longer distance than the left. This is valid only for the Atmos speakers. It is OK for the LR ones. This really is driving me crazy. Thoughts?
.
Disparate distance measurements are telling you that you have reflections, ie room issues. Run at least 5 points instead of single point.
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post #226 of 2597 Old 12-08-2018, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MizzouTiger View Post
According to the HDMI conversion table on page 158 of the owner's manual, the 1080 can accept 480i and 480p through the component video inputs. Right now, the Wii is set to 480i - but even if it were set to 480p, it should work with the component video connection with the 1080. I have the HDMI video resolution set to Auto on the 1080.

Also, I just tried the Wii again. Picture came up on the TV, but is had lines going through it and it would come and go. I still think it's the component cables from the Wii that is the problem.
I mentioned the most obvious items. If you think it's the cables, can you unplug them from teh AVR and try them directly into the TV? It could help determine if it's the cables or the AVR. (Or ... try a different set of cables. )

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post #227 of 2597 Old 12-08-2018, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
I mentioned the most obvious items. If you think it's the cables, can you unplug them from teh AVR and try them directly into the TV? It could help determine if it's the cables or the AVR. (Or ... try a different set of cables. )
I am giving up. I have tried a second set of cables, and still can't get video from the Wii using component. I can get the composite cables to work just fine. I have no idea what setting I need to adjust/change to get this work with component cables
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post #228 of 2597 Old 12-09-2018, 06:16 AM
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Hi! I have a Marantz SR6011, but in a couple of days a 2080 will arrive. I didn't have any Yamaha receivers before, so I would like to know if there is recommendation on features I should turn on or off (or anything I should care about to set up). Especially Cinema DSP HD3 and Surround AI. Previously I didn't use any EQ like DynamicEQ or DynamicVolume.

I will use it for 5.2.4 with Klipsch speakers:

2x RP-280F - front
1x RP-450C - center
2x RP-250S - surround
2x R-112SW - subwoofer
4x RP-140SA - Atmos

(The Atmos speakers are on the side walls, just in front/and behind the MLP. Couldn't put on front/behind wall).

So any suggestion would be great! Thanks in advance!

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post #229 of 2597 Old 12-09-2018, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
I'm thinking the 3020 has "0db" as a max output. The later models use "+16db" as a max output. In any case don't sweat it. But make sure your channel levels aren't being set more than -3db in YPAO. If they are, increase the sub gain and run it again. But its all relative, set it wherever you need to.

Apparently its not the exact same conditions. Make sure you have eliminated ALL ambient noise while running it and do not stand in the room.

Disparate distance measurements are telling you that you have reflections, ie room issues. Run at least 5 points instead of single point.
You are correct; the 3020 has 0dB as max volume and the 3080 use +16dB (I just realized that after you mentioned it), but I thought that the volumes should be comparable at the same levels. Apparently I was wrong. However, YPAO never showed anything lower than -0.5dB, and always for the surrounds. As a piece of information, it now gave me +2dB for Atmos, 0.0dB for the fronts, +0.5dB center, +0.5 for the sub, -0.5dB surrounds.

Ran YPAO again like you said and could get much similar distances for the Atmos speakers; it now reads 21.2ft on the left and 19.2ft on the right. I guess it makes sense due to the layout of the room (open wall on the right).

I still don't know ho to make the remote to light up without giving it a shake though.

Thank you very much for the help.
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post #230 of 2597 Old 12-09-2018, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
I mentioned the most obvious items. If you think it's the cables, can you unplug them from teh AVR and try them directly into the TV? It could help determine if it's the cables or the AVR. (Or ... try a different set of cables. )
Okay, I just connected the Wii directly to the television's component inputs and everything works fine. I have tried a brand new set of component cables to the AVR and no video.
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post #231 of 2597 Old 12-09-2018, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Renatto View Post
Hi! I have a Marantz SR6011, but in a couple of days a 2080 will arrive. I didn't have any Yamaha receivers before, so I would like to know if there is recommendation on features I should turn on or off (or anything I should care about to set up). Especially Cinema DSP HD3 and Surround AI. Previously I didn't use any EQ like DynamicEQ or DynamicVolume.

I will use it for 5.2.4 with Klipsch speakers:

2x RP-280F - front
1x RP-450C - center
2x RP-250S - surround
2x R-112SW - subwoofer
4x RP-140SA - Atmos

(The Atmos speakers are on the side walls, just in front/and behind the MLP. Couldn't put on front/behind wall).

So any suggestion would be great! Thanks in advance!
Cinema DSP and other gewgaws are an acquired taste IMHO. I'd start with running YPAO, choose "Through" for YPAO's PEQ (speaker equalization) to bypass any speaker tweaks, then use Straight for multichannel content, Sur Decode for 2.0 content. After you've gotten used to features and settings, try the PEQ tweaks maybe adjust the speaker levels to personal taste.

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Okay, I just connected the Wii directly to the television's component inputs and everything works fine. I have tried a brand new set of component cables to the AVR and no video.
Try the on-screen signal info display to see what if any video signal is received from the Wii. Otherwise, connect it to the TV -- somehow it's incompatible with the AVR.

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post #232 of 2597 Old 12-09-2018, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Try the on-screen signal info display to see what if any video signal is received from the Wii. Otherwise, connect it to the TV -- somehow it's incompatible with the AVR.
I did that just before I saw your reply. When I use the composite video connected to AV1, the AVR says its getting an analog input signal and outputting via HDMI via HDMI1 and I do get video out to the TV.

When I use the component cables (same ones I used to connect directly to the TV and everything worked fine) connected to AV!, the AVR is saying it's not getting any video input.

I have no idea what is going on.
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post #233 of 2597 Old 12-09-2018, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MizzouTiger View Post
I did that just before I saw your reply. When I use the composite video connected to AV1, the AVR says its getting an analog input signal and outputting via HDMI via HDMI1 and I do get video out to the TV.

When I use the component cables (same ones I used to connect directly to the TV and everything worked fine) connected to AV!, the AVR is saying it's not getting any video input.

I have no idea what is going on.
What format video signal does the TV say it's getting from the Wii when it's connected via component?

Does the Wii have any "monitor autodetect" setting on it? What other video settings are configured on it?

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post #234 of 2597 Old 12-09-2018, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renatto View Post
Hi! I have a Marantz SR6011, but in a couple of days a 2080 will arrive. I didn't have any Yamaha receivers before, so I would like to know if there is recommendation on features I should turn on or off (or anything I should care about to set up). Especially Cinema DSP HD3 and Surround AI. Previously I didn't use any EQ like DynamicEQ or DynamicVolume.

I will use it for 5.2.4 with Klipsch speakers:

2x RP-280F - front
1x RP-450C - center
2x RP-250S - surround
2x R-112SW - subwoofer
4x RP-140SA - Atmos

(The Atmos speakers are on the side walls, just in front/and behind the MLP. Couldn't put on front/behind wall).

So any suggestion would be great! Thanks in advance!
Welcome,

The receiver will guide you once you start it up, I would suggest that you download the manual now and familiarize yourself with it's functions. When you get to the YPAO setup part I would suggest that you do the full measure of all positions as well as the angle and height measurements. Use the manual as your guide as it clearly shows you the proper positioning.

Once complete you will see an onscreen prompt asking you if you would like to turn on YPAO volume, select yes. YPAO volume works really well and it isn't over the top such as Audyssey Dynamic EQ. I would also use Surround A.I as I have experienced it first hand and it works really well. You can turn these options off later if you choose.

Everything else will be set at default and I would leave them alone for now, enjoy and get used to the receiver, it's menu's, etc. In regards to the DSP modes, they are really well done and here is a tip to get the most out of them. When you select one and the reverb and delay is just too much for your liking, decrease the room size of that particular DSP mode in the menu. Don't touch anything else until you understand how the parameters works. Room size is the key for those DSP modes to go from over the top to just right and enjoyable.

Brush up on scenes, they are very useful.

Good luck
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post #235 of 2597 Old 12-09-2018, 07:28 PM
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I did that just before I saw your reply. When I use the composite video connected to AV1, the AVR says its getting an analog input signal and outputting via HDMI via HDMI1 and I do get video out to the TV.

When I use the component cables (same ones I used to connect directly to the TV and everything worked fine) connected to AV!, the AVR is saying it's not getting any video input.

I have no idea what is going on.
If I read this video flow chart correctly, the Yamaha will not accept anything but 480i over component input. No 480p allowed. Is this relevant to your case?
These things always confuse me, maybe I'm reading it wrong.
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post #236 of 2597 Old 12-09-2018, 07:42 PM
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If I read this video flow chart correctly, the Yamaha will not accept anything but 480i over component input. No 480p allowed. Is this relevant to your case?
These things always confuse me, maybe I'm reading it wrong.


The way I read it, the 1080 can accept 480i or 480p over component from the Wii. Either way, I have tried it with both 480i and 480p with component and can not get video from the Wii through the 1080.

I know the 880 will only accept 480i via component.
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post #237 of 2597 Old 12-10-2018, 01:41 AM
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Welcome,

The receiver will guide ......

Brush up on scenes, they are very useful.

Good luck

Thank You @H Stevens & @ChromeJob !

The receiver will arrive tomorrow, so I'll be back soon with questions, I guess.
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post #238 of 2597 Old 12-10-2018, 04:47 AM
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I'm thinking the 3020 has "0db" as a max output. The later models use "+16db" as a max output. In any case don't sweat it. But make sure your channel levels aren't being set more than -3db in YPAO. If they are, increase the sub gain and run it again. But its all relative, set it wherever you need to.

Apparently its not the exact same conditions. Make sure you have eliminated ALL ambient noise while running it and do not stand in the room.

Disparate distance measurements are telling you that you have reflections, ie room issues. Run at least 5 points instead of single point.
Just a FYI,

my 3010 has the ability to set the max output anywhere from -30 to +16
0 being the default setting
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post #239 of 2597 Old 12-10-2018, 08:16 PM
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Thank You @H Stevens & @ChromeJob !

The receiver will arrive tomorrow, so I'll be back soon with questions, I guess.
The manual has a wealth of information about setup and use. Also, Yamaha's AV Setup Guide app will download details for your AVR and take you through teh basics step by step, if needed.

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post #240 of 2597 Old 12-11-2018, 02:52 PM
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Just a FYI,

my 3010 has the ability to set the max output anywhere from -30 to +16
0 being the default setting
You are correct; I just checked my 3020 and it goes up to +16.5dB, but it was set to a maximum of 0.0dB. It does seem like my 3080 has something off in comparison, whether or not this should be an issue. No way in the world I could listen to my 3020 at 0.0dB and not get my eardrums exploded. My 3080 doesn't get closer, volume output wise at the same volume level.
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