The "Official" Yamaha RX-A3080, RX-A2080 and RX-A1080 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 86 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2551 of 2636 Old 06-29-2020, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renatto View Post
Xbox uses Atmos/DD+ (dashboard & games) so the lossy.
I use the Xbox as my hub. I do not use any WebOS apps. (Netflix on Xbox One is in true ATMOS, correct?). Regardless, I can change the audio setting on the Xbox (which passes through the LG C9) and the receiver will properly display the audio signal type (DD, DTS, ATMOS). Also, when I watch regular TV (Spectrum that passes through the Xbox HDMI) and experience lip-sync issues, lip-sync is perfect when I watch Netflix indicating I believe that the "e" in eARC is working. Correct me if I am wrong, please.

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post #2552 of 2636 Old 06-29-2020, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Blipstein View Post
I use the Xbox as my hub. I do not use any WebOS apps. (Netflix on Xbox One is in true ATMOS, correct?). Regardless, I can change the audio setting on the Xbox (which passes through the LG C9) and the receiver will properly display the audio signal type (DD, DTS, ATMOS). Also, when I watch regular TV (Spectrum that passes through the Xbox HDMI) and experience lip-sync issues, lip-sync is perfect when I watch Netflix indicating I believe that the "e" in eARC is working. Correct me if I am wrong, please.
Netflix, Disney+ and other streaming services and Xbox One Uses Atmos in Dolby Digital Plus which is lossy (1-3Mbit/secs), not the lossless TrueHD Atmos (6-18Mbit/sec). DolbyDigitalPlus works without eARC, so works on the standard ARC too. It worked on my old OLED B7 - 3 years ago - only with ARC....

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post #2553 of 2636 Old 06-29-2020, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Renatto View Post
Netflix, Disney+ and other streaming services and Xbox One Uses Atmos in Dolby Digital Plus which is lossy (1-3Mbit/secs), not the lossless TrueHD Atmos (6-18Mbit/sec). DolbyDigitalPlus works without eARC, so works on the standard ARC too. It worked on my old OLED B7 - 3 years ago - only with ARC....
So if I tried an Ultra HD Blu-ray passing through the TV and the receiver showed "ATMOS / DTHD" would that indicate that eARC is working then?

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post #2554 of 2636 Old 06-29-2020, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Blipstein View Post
So if I tried an Ultra HD Blu-ray passing through the TV and the receiver showed "ATMOS / DTHD" would that indicate that eARC is working then?
Yes.

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post #2555 of 2636 Old 06-29-2020, 02:27 PM
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I had a Yamaha RX-A1040 and recently upgraded to RX-A2080. I see that they have taken out the nice web browser interface that was present in 1040. Previously using the web interface I could save YPAO settings and speaker config to my local drive. Is there any way I can do the same with RX-A2080 ?
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post #2556 of 2636 Old 06-29-2020, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben Tan View Post
Calm down. My 3080 works over eARC with my C9. There are some kinks where sometimes it may take more than a few seconds to handshake the incoming signal, a small annoyance but it is what it is.

thats the logical thing. if earc didnt work in a such a high cost receiver as 3080, then the owners should ask for a refund
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post #2557 of 2636 Old 06-29-2020, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Felix_ro View Post
Hi @ceh383 , no offense and just a though, but have you tried to find the information that you want in the manual?

I usually use "search" feature inside the PDF documents to find exactly what I'm looking for, and most of the times, it gets me to the information I want pretty fast (searching by single word, a representative one, like "zone" or even "zone input", for example in your case).

I'm suggesting you this, since it seems there are not many that use those features as you described, so probably there will be none to be able to answer you to this particular question/issue.

Hope this helps!
I generally do my due diligence and search for answers before posting a question. The other night when I went through the manual I was tired and frustrated, so I went through it again today. It seems as "Party Mode" is the only way to play the same input across multiple zones, and I do have "Party mode turned off. I was hoping I just missed something simple.


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Originally Posted by Felix_ro View Post
One more thing, @ceh383 , I also come from another older Yamaha Avantage, 2040 in my case, and I have to say, all I have to do was to replace the unit (aka disconnect everything from old one, and connect to the new one), RUN YPAO, and all seemed to be the same (or even little more/better, if I can say so).
So, although I'm no expert or know how exactly the Dirac Live works, I would still suggest you to re-do the measurements with the new (2080) unit; it MIGHT be important, as I'm not sure (didn't actually look in-depth) if there are or not different processors/decoders in those two units/versions.

Hope this helps!
The beauty of running Dirac on an outboard processor is if you change the input source (AVR) you should not have to remeasure, as long as you keep all the speaker distances the same in the AVR. All speaker distances, phase adjustments, sub delays and correction curves are stored in the outboard processor. If you change something after the processor, amp or speakers/placement, then you must remeasure.
When I have some time alone I will remeasure just to eliminate the possibility.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nenito2k View Post
curious @ceh383

the A2080 is regarded as one of the best avr's on the market....but i guess there are always people that don't like it! hell i even saw people telling me the top of the line anthems...are not good and sound the same as any other AVR

that is just how it goes; what i am mostly sure of from numerous readings...is that ALL aventage should sound the same...99% of people don't hear any difference. as you may already know people don't even hear differences between the very LOW end models like v373 (2012!) and the aventage A2080/3080....and various pro. reviewers even told me this (some disagreed).
I've had Yamaha gear of some sort for the last 20ish years, with every new model I felt the sound got a little better, until now.
I'm sure it can get better, I just need some alone time to play with it. The biggest issue right now is the zone input problem.


PS: The reason for always wanting AV1 at shutdown, the daytime TV my wife watches has no gain from the system being on. Her shows are just fine with the soundbar, and I don't have to explain to her 10 times a day how to get it to work properly

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post #2558 of 2636 Old 06-30-2020, 01:41 AM
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@Renatto and @Ben Tan or even @Blipstein

ok so conclusion of "Earc issue" ?

1- netflix and xbox display atmos in lossy audio, so it is useless as a testing thing....
2- Earc works...if you use a PC (HD movie) to AVR to TV : 7.1 lossless AUDIO
3- UHD with bluray player still not confirmed working ?

is that about the situation we have currently ?

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post #2559 of 2636 Old 06-30-2020, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nenito2k View Post
@Renatto and @Ben Tan or even @Blipstein

ok so conclusion of "Earc issue" ?

1- netflix and xbox display atmos in lossy audio, so it is useless as a testing thing....
2- Earc works...if you use a PC (HD movie) to AVR to TV : 7.1 lossless AUDIO
3- UHD with bluray player still not confirmed working ?

is that about the situation we have currently ?
1. Correct
2. Correct, but PC > TV > AVR
3. It should work like PC...

4. Media Players with TrueHD/Atmos/DTS:X capabilities should work too. But in my case the MP/TV/AVR line has an issue somewhere...
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post #2560 of 2636 Old 06-30-2020, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ceh383 View Post
The beauty of running Dirac on an outboard processor is if you change the input source (AVR) you should not have to remeasure, as long as you keep all the speaker distances the same in the AVR. All speaker distances, phase adjustments, sub delays and correction curves are stored in the outboard processor. If you change something after the processor, amp or speakers/placement, then you must remeasure.
When I have some time alone I will remeasure just to eliminate the possibility.
@ceh383 -> Could you please provide some info. on what equipment you use to run Dirac Live on Yamaha Receiver? If this is off topic apologies and please PM me with info.
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post #2561 of 2636 Old 06-30-2020, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by satyab View Post
@ceh383 -> Could you please provide some info. on what equipment you use to run Dirac Live on Yamaha Receiver? If this is off topic apologies and please PM me with info.
I'm running a MiniDSP DDRC-88a with the Bass Management plugin. Running this requires the use of external amplifiers. For those, 5 Outlaw Audio M-2200's.
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post #2562 of 2636 Old 06-30-2020, 09:40 PM
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Hi. Is there someone who has experience from a Yamaha RX-A3080 and a Sony STR-DN1080? The price difference is significant and I'd like to understand what to expect (major pros/cons besides the tech specs that I already have) from the Yamaha, in case I upgraded.

Besides the extra channels, what is most likely I'll like or dislike on the Yamaha compared to the Sony?
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post #2563 of 2636 Old 07-01-2020, 05:32 AM
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if you have read this topic, you know you won't get any clear answer....be it a low end sony or another brand ! some will tell you the sound is the same, other will tell you the contrary...you won't have any answer unless you buy the thing; but for me the 3080 is NOT worth it, as the 2080 costs much less and has the same performance

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post #2564 of 2636 Old 07-01-2020, 05:34 AM
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Just had a sort of DOA on my A1080: all speakers and HDMI's were setup correctly and had both sound and vision.
Already looked at some menu's and setup my wifi connection.

Then the receiver asked to perform a firmware update and I accepted.
All went well and after a few minutes the receiver asked to power off.

And then it was "broken": I turned it on and it turned itself right off. I tried 3 times and then it went into protection mode.
The fix did not work either (pressing AI + Info + power): it turns itself off again.

So I disconnected all connections and still it would fall into protection mode.
Very scary that this happens right after a firmware update. Did not touch any cables during/after update.

Anyone else read about this issue?
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post #2565 of 2636 Old 07-01-2020, 09:26 AM
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@Omega010
Yes various Yamaha owners saw their unit die..after a fw update!!! This is incredible...such an expensive device that does during the first 15mn?!!!
My advice would be to call yamaha...but you will wind up sending it back probably
I would also suggest disconnecting all speakers too and trying to boot...but this is BAD, and this is a reason why many people always advice FIRMWARE updates via USB. it is considered much safer...who knows





maybe try this ? even if it is for V series...might work
or

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post #2566 of 2636 Old 07-01-2020, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nenito2k View Post

@Nikolaos Tsarmpopoulos





if you have read this topic, you know you won't get any clear answer....be it a low end sony or another brand ! some will tell you the sound is the same, other will tell you the contrary...you won't have any answer unless you buy the thing; but for me the 3080 is NOT worth it, as the 2080 costs much less and has the same performance
Are the XLR connectors at the back the only difference between the two?

I had the impression that the A3080 has 11.2 channels pre out with 9.2 channels amplified, while the A2080 has 7.2 channels pre out and 7.2 amplified, is this not correct?

The upgrade would aim for 5.1.4 initially and 7.2.4 a couple of years later.

For 7.2 channels, I think it would be sensible to stay with the Sony STR-DN1080 that I currently use.

Last edited by ntsarb; 07-01-2020 at 02:54 PM.
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post #2567 of 2636 Old 07-01-2020, 02:33 PM
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The a1080 will suffice..anything over that seems...overkill I just hope your unit will work well..as more and more, i keep reading that these units die...quickly

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post #2568 of 2636 Old 07-01-2020, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikolaos Tsarmpopoulos View Post
Are the XLR connectors at the back the only difference between the two?

I had the impression that the A3080 has 11.2 channels pre out with 9.2 channels amplified, while the A2080 has 7.2 channels pre out and 7.2 amplified, is this not correct?

The upgrade would aim for 5.1.4 initially and 7.2.4 a couple of years later.

For 7.2 channels, I think it would be sensible to stay with the Sony STR-DN1080 that I currently use.
The A2080 has 9.2 channels pre out and 9.2 amplified. The difference is the 11.2 preouts, the "better" DAC, "better" YPAO, "better" components, the more power...

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Last edited by Renatto; 07-01-2020 at 11:51 PM.
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post #2569 of 2636 Old 07-02-2020, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikolaos Tsarmpopoulos View Post
Hi. Is there someone who has experience from a Yamaha RX-A3080 and a Sony STR-DN1080? The price difference is significant and I'd like to understand what to expect (major pros/cons besides the tech specs that I already have) from the Yamaha, in case I upgraded.

Besides the extra channels, what is most likely I'll like or dislike on the Yamaha compared to the Sony?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikolaos Tsarmpopoulos View Post
Are the XLR connectors at the back the only difference between the two?

I had the impression that the A3080 has 11.2 channels pre out with 9.2 channels amplified, while the A2080 has 7.2 channels pre out and 7.2 amplified, is this not correct?

The upgrade would aim for 5.1.4 initially and 7.2.4 a couple of years later.

For 7.2 channels, I think it would be sensible to stay with the Sony STR-DN1080 that I currently use.
Hi @Nikolaos Tsarmpopoulos and welcome to the AVS Forum.

I'll try to give you some ideas that maybe will help you also, as I will let you know what I had done when I purchased my first Yamaha Avantage several years ago (was a RX-A2040), and then again last year in November, the EX-A2080 model.

Provided that you say you'll want to do a replacement, I presume you already have the speakers, and if you do want to keep those (as I would also have to presume you want), this should be your starting point: your existing speakers!
If you'll take the specifications of your speakers, and search for a unit (leaving aside the brand for start), you should get a nice lineup of units, at the intersection of the required specs for existing speakers with the amount of money you're willing to spent (I would suggest to start by being very sparing/economical cause no matter you'll do, you'll see, you'll end up spending more than the initial settled price point).

Then, you'll have to compare specs from that lineup and read of each, what kind of technologies have incorporated, and of those which you could make use of right now, or who knows, maybe use in the near future.

For example, I recall when I started to search for an amplifier, I only wanted something to listen music (preferably from good sources, like FLAC and DSD files), and maybe watch some movies (and thought I will use the speakers from the Logitech Z-5500 that I had then, as the surround speakers); but then, searching and comparing specs, found out that there's a new kind/format of surround named Dolby Atmos, about which I started read more and more, and decided "I WANT ATMOS", and then my list got EXTREMELY short, since there were only two models that "could" do Atmos after a near future firmware update. So probably you realize that those two models were Yamaha's Avantage RX-A2040 and RX-A3040, so I get the 2040, not having enough money nor space to have 7 surround speakers.
Similarly, you can lookup and find out what functionalities you want most, which one you think you'll want to have (after you get acquainted with what is currently on the market and inside the suited models), and for sure you'll reach to a very short list.
I saw you successfully saw the subtle differences between various models, therefore I think you're on a good track, so keep going!


Furthermore, I would like to say this again (and I can't stress this enough), AUDIO/LISTENING is an EXTREMELY SUBJECTIVE topic/point/subject, and it is ENORMOUSLY dependent on other factors than the amplifier+speakers, as for example listener ears (capability and preferences) and listening environment (room and the placement of the speakers in that room, which can make a cheap system sounds better than an higher priced one, IF it is BETTER "tuned" to the environment).
Therefore, if you can TEST for yourself the model/models you would want to purchase, preferably in your own environment, it will be THE BEST. If not, listen to them at vendors show-rooms/audition-rooms, with something you know very well.
Also, I would suggest you to not get as good everything anyone says, especially if they don't have a "first hand" experience, as you clearly asked from the beginning (as it is nenito2k who, no offense, but sincerely seems to me that just want to denigrate those models and Yamaha overall, while clearly he does not own or used any of them).

Hope this helps!
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post #2570 of 2636 Old 07-02-2020, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nenito2k View Post
@Omega010
Yes various Yamaha owners saw their unit die..after a fw update!!! This is incredible...such an expensive device that does during the first 15mn?!!!
My advice would be to call yamaha...but you will wind up sending it back probably
I would also suggest disconnecting all speakers too and trying to boot...but this is BAD, and this is a reason why many people always advice FIRMWARE updates via USB. it is considered much safer...who knows
I have major account issues so created another one (I'm Omega010, trying to get that account working again)
Luckily I could return the receiver and pick a new one up yesterday. Great service!

This new A1080 updated fine (used wired instead of wifi).
We filmed the whole process to be sure
But in the future I will use USB, thanks for the headsup.

But man, what a f$ckup by Yamaha. Very scary that an update caused this brick.
So no DOA but DAU (Dead After Update)

Now it's time to get familiar with the extended set of features! Overwhelming at first (coming from a RX-V667).
Also bought new speakers this week: Focal Aria 936 (center and rears coming soon).

But soundwise I have to tweak a lot! After the first YPAO run the sound became dull/hollow.
Had to set PEQ to Front to get better sound again, instead of Flat which was selected.

Does this forum have some dedicated YPAO info I could start reading?

Also have major issues watching my 3D movies though a Mede8er MED600X3D mediaplayer.
I don't have a 3D TV anymore but with the V667 I still got output so I could adjust the player back to 2D.
But with the new A1080 my LG 77C9 now says "Invalid format" and I can't get into player menu anymore to toggle 2D.
Very frustrating

But I can confirm that eARC is working between C9 and A1080.
When I directly hooked the player into the TV for that 3D test I still got the Dolby HD track through eARC.
But no Atmos: is this because I didn't hook up any front heights? (only have 5.1 for now)
I thought it would still use the better Atmos object placement but then in 5.1
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post #2571 of 2636 Old 07-02-2020, 01:34 AM
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@Felix_ro

no offence mate...BUT you made a mistake there :

1- i am not beginner to AVR's ( i had 3 already)
2- i had 3 sets of speakers too...
3- i do love yamahas...as of the 3 units i purchased in the last 10 years...2 have been yamaha's
4- my comments are never out of the blue; but based on personal experience or numerous readings over forums in europe france/germany and uk)
5- i have listened to 2 other yamaha avr's at friend's house...

BUT believe me it is just that since 2017 yamahas seem much less reliable than before and DENON has caught up in reliability...
i read SO MANY owners having yamaha avr's that die less than 2 years after buying them (V675, V577,A770, A10xx/20xx/30xx series) made my head hurt
and member lke @Ross Ridge or @SARHENTO and of course @rthommo will probably agree...that even FW update process is dangerous on yamaha avr's


Despite all this i decided on the A1080 after summer (not many options in the middle east region unfortunately)...yet i am extremely nervous as where i live the warranty will probably be not efficient....

hope this clears things up friend

@Peter van der Waal

thanks for the update; yes such an expensive avr that dies brand new after update is very disappointing; but swap went smoothly so all is ok; where are you located btw ? usa or europe ? also did the shop ask for the return reason or not ?
also regarding updates VIA usb...well some yamaha owners on this very forum saw their unit die after the update...so in general it is safer but @rolette will confirm otherwise

nice to hear earc is working with HD audio as it should; @Renatto should take note

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post #2572 of 2636 Old 07-02-2020, 07:26 AM
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@Felix_ro or renatto and @Peter van der Waal

on yamaha's webpage it is stated: "download FW on a usb drive in a FOLDER at the highest level of hierarchy (root folder)".

Does this mean the BIN file has to be INSIDE a folder (with what name ???) or am i not understanding English well ?! according to all owners the bin file has to be copied to the usb as it is...

any clarifications ?

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post #2573 of 2636 Old 07-02-2020, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by nenito2k View Post
@Felix_ro or renatto and @Peter van der Waal

on yamaha's webpage it is stated: "download FW on a usb drive in a FOLDER at the highest level of hierarchy (root folder)".

Does this mean the BIN file has to be INSIDE a folder (with what name ???) or am i not understanding English well ?! according to all owners the bin file has to be copied to the usb as it is...

any clarifications ?
Root Folder.
Meaning (as is also written), “the highest level of hierarchy”, aka DIRECTLY on the drive, WITHOUT any folder.
Also, I recall doing my latest updates on ALL my devices, since more than 2 years now, exclusively over the network, and only for the Receiver I’ve used wireless, for any other devices used old good and reliable network cable.

Last edited by Felix_ro; 07-02-2020 at 11:55 PM.
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post #2574 of 2636 Old 07-02-2020, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Renatto View Post
The A2080 has 9.2 channels pre out and 9.2 amplified. The difference is the 11.2 preouts, the "better" DAC, "better" YPAO, "better" components, the more power...
Thank you.
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post #2575 of 2636 Old 07-03-2020, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by nenito2k View Post
@Renatto and @Ben Tan or even @Blipstein

ok so conclusion of "Earc issue" ?

1- netflix and xbox display atmos in lossy audio, so it is useless as a testing thing....
2- Earc works...if you use a PC (HD movie) to AVR to TV : 7.1 lossless AUDIO
3- UHD with bluray player still not confirmed working ?

is that about the situation we have currently ?
1) Netflix app on TV through eARC to receiver will always show DD+. It's lossy as you said.

2) eARC from PC to TV through receiver will show whatever the content's track is, if it's Atmos then it'll be Atmos.

3) I do not use a physical player anymore, I remux all my movies for HTPC use. So I cannot confirm this.
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post #2576 of 2636 Old 07-03-2020, 05:28 AM
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@Ben Tan


please tell us how you have been doing FW updates ? wifi, ethernet or usb ? i ask because during the past 6-8 years many owners killed their yamaha's (could be any model V or A) during update process...

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post #2577 of 2636 Old 07-03-2020, 05:36 AM
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I can confirm that eARC is working fine and passes lossless audio.

Tested again with a mediaplayer directly in my LG 77C9. The A1080 displayed both DTS-HD MA and Dolby DTHD

Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
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post #2578 of 2636 Old 07-03-2020, 10:54 AM
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well it is a relieve that earc works... issue is definitely in something of @Renatto

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Last edited by nenito2k; 07-05-2020 at 10:45 AM.
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post #2579 of 2636 Old 07-04-2020, 11:53 AM
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Can I use a 3-prong power cord with the 2-prong power jack on the 3080? I have an extra audiophile power cord that I bought some years back.
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post #2580 of 2636 Old 07-04-2020, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ceh383 View Post
Just got a 2080, it replaced my 2060 that died. Frankly, I liked the 2060 better, but it is what it is.
I'm having a couple issues I can't figure out.
1) Zone input. I can not get zones 1 and 2 to play from different sources. If I have both zones playing and change the input source on either zone the other zone changes with it. Party mode is OFF, I must be missing something, but I don't see what.
After having a full day to play with it (wife gone for the day) I did a factory reset (3 times) now it acts as it should, different zones playing different sources. Must have been a software glitch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ceh383 View Post
2) Default input. I know neither the 2060 or the 2080 has a setting for a default input. I don't know if this is an issue with the 2080 or my Harmony Ultimate Remote, but...

With the 2060 the remote gave me an option to set an input as part of the shutdown commands, with the 2080 this is missing.
When switching activities I need the 2080 to ALWAYS go to AV1. If this is a Harmony issue, is there a work around in the 2080?
Still haven't figured this one out, but I did find a work around. I setup a scene to do what I wanted and set that as one of the shutdown commands in the Harmony remote.


As for my comments earlier in this thread about the 2080 sounding to sterile, it seems the factory resets cured that as well. It's almost there, more tweaking and tuning needed, but it is very close now.
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