"Official" Yamaha RX-V*85/TSR-*850 Owners Thread - Page 12 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #331 of 910 Old 12-28-2018, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by afrogt View Post
No, the RX-V685 can't do HDMI audio in Zone 2. Can't do optical or digital coax in Zone 2 either. Just analog and built in apps.
Thank you.
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post #332 of 910 Old 12-28-2018, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post
No, the RX-V685 can't do HDMI audio in Zone 2. Can't do optical or digital coax in Zone 2 either. Just analog and built in apps.
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Originally Posted by caphel View Post
Thank you.
There is an exception. If you are using Multi Zone Sync, an HDMI input on the main zone also plays in Zone 2. You can mute main if it’s unwanted there and control the volumes separately in each zone.

Also, optical and coax digital can be played independently in zone 2 while other sources are played in the main zone.
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post #333 of 910 Old 12-28-2018, 05:03 PM
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There is an exception. If you are using Multi Zone Sync, an HDMI input on the main zone also plays in Zone 2. You can mute main if it’s unwanted there and control the volumes separately in each zone.
Is that like the Party Mode feature?

Quote:
Also, optical and coax digital can be played independently in zone 2 while other sources are played in the main zone.
that must be a new feature for the 2018 68x models. Previous years couldn't play digital sources in Zone 2 until you got up to the Aventage A-108x models, maybe the A-8xx.

Afro GT

Last edited by afrogt; 12-28-2018 at 05:06 PM.
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post #334 of 910 Old 12-28-2018, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by afrogt View Post
Is that like the Party Mode feature?
In a way... if you are controlling Zone 2 on the remote (I think this is new with the v685 model) Multiroom Sync is one of the input selections as you scroll the input buttons.

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Originally Posted by afrogt View Post
that must be a new feature for the 2018 68x models. Previous years couldn't play digital sources in Zone 2 until you got up to the Aventage A-108x models, maybe the A-8xx.
Quite possibly. I have the v685 and verified these work after reading your post and the enquirer’s question. There has got to be new features that trickle down to get us to update. EG, my v685 has tons more features than my previous A3000, though there’s a few missing too. My budget just didn’t go to an A3080 this time.
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post #335 of 910 Old 12-28-2018, 06:58 PM
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Thsi is all information that you didn’t include in your original post. Sounds like you’re ready for an upgrade to an AVR that supports current standards
Indeed but I'm still debating if I should go with a 2018 model Yamaha now or wait until summer/fall for the 2019 models or if I should grab the Sony DN1080 which has high praise from pro reviewers but is (I think) a 2017 model.

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post #336 of 910 Old 12-29-2018, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jpfe8851 View Post
There is an exception. If you are using Multi Zone Sync, an HDMI input on the main zone also plays in Zone 2. You can mute main if it’s unwanted there and control the volumes separately in each zone.

Also, optical and coax digital can be played independently in zone 2 while other sources are played in the main zone.
Ok, if i understand all correctly there's a way to hear every input from the RCA zone2 out and multi zone is THE thing? I'm asking this, because i own i headphone amp and it would be nice to use it properly.
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post #337 of 910 Old 12-29-2018, 06:11 AM
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Ok, if i understand all correctly there's a way to hear every input from the RCA zone2 out and multi zone is THE thing? I'm asking this, because i own i headphone amp and it would be nice to use it properly.
Okay... I tested the speaker outs directly using the back surrounds, but since pre-outs send the same signal before the internal amp, I see no reason the source selection would be different. I also own a headphone amp but I run the source directly to it. I usually listen to hi-res flac files off a digital player.

Some additional observations for you to consider are if you’re going to use HDMI as a source, is that to play CDs or music DVDs? If so, make sure the output of the player is set to bitstream PCM to get uncompressed signals. BUT since the RX-V685 has a headphone out, I think listening to that with the AVR set to Pure Direct would give you the least modified signal. Also, the V685 uses a Brown-Burr DAC IIRC. And whatever I play and listen to from the headphone jack through my HD700s sounds sweet as anything a get from my HP amp.
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post #338 of 910 Old 12-29-2018, 09:20 AM
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Okay... I tested the speaker outs directly using the back surrounds, but since pre-outs send the same signal before the internal amp, I see no reason the source selection would be different. I also own a headphone amp but I run the source directly to it. I usually listen to hi-res flac files off a digital player.

Some additional observations for you to consider are if you’re going to use HDMI as a source, is that to play CDs or music DVDs? If so, make sure the output of the player is set to bitstream PCM to get uncompressed signals. BUT since the RX-V685 has a headphone out, I think listening to that with the AVR set to Pure Direct would give you the least modified signal. Also, the V685 uses a Brown-Burr DAC IIRC. And whatever I play and listen to from the headphone jack through my HD700s sounds sweet as anything a get from my HP amp.
If the DAC is that good like you said, i probably can deal with lower end model like v585, because i don't need all v685 features and gimmicks. Does the v585 have to same quality DAC or even cheaper v485? My setup is 2-speakers only and i usually use headphones during nightimes (watching tv and movies).
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post #339 of 910 Old 12-29-2018, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caphel View Post
If the DAC is that good like you said, i probably can deal with lower end model like v585, because i don't need all v685 features and gimmicks. Does the v585 have to same quality DAC or even cheaper v485? My setup is 2-speakers only and i usually use headphones during nightimes (watching tv and movies).
Yamaha specs indicate all use Burr-Brown 384 kHz / 32-bit DAC x 3 with the 685 using one more than the 485.

https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audi...=model#d145654
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post #340 of 910 Old 12-29-2018, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by caphel View Post
If the DAC is that good like you said, i probably can deal with lower end model like v585, because i don't need all v685 features and gimmicks. Does the v585 have to same quality DAC or even cheaper v485? My setup is 2-speakers only and i usually use headphones during nightimes (watching tv and movies).
What @JoeKustra wrote is correct, though the V585 has 4 like the V685. The V485 will certainly meet your current requirements. Bear in mind though that receivers can last many years so if you think ahead you may avoid an unnecessary upgrade if you allow for future needs now. Also, the V685 is newer and has a much better remote. Most importantly both the V485 and V585 lack pre-outs so if you do want to connect your amp that way, you’ll be out of luck.

When I bought my V685, it was reduced below what most were selling the V585 for, so check prices around the usual discounters before committing.

Whatever you choose, I think you’ll enjoy it. I’m on my third Yamaha and love them. Easy to use and sound great.
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post #341 of 910 Old 12-30-2018, 01:04 PM
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Question RX-V485 Bluetooth drama

So I just upgraded (~12 hours ago!) from a Denon AVR-1916 to a RX-V485. One of the primary reasons for choosing the Yamaha over the Denon was bluetooth audio transmission. We want to be able to power up our headset and play a loud game or watch a movie while the other person is sleeping. (in the next room, but it's a small house)

Upgraded to 1.49 to get the bluetooth transmission. Spent hours trying to figure out how to transmit (hidden in the audio control of the musiccast app!) It paired instantly and auto-reconnected with my Taotronics TT-BH040 (Bluetooth 5.0) headset last night, but two problems:

1. It paired only after 8-ish attempts with my wife's Taotronics TT-BH042 headset. Worse, when her headset is connected there is no audio. If I tap on her headset in the MusicCast app I get the following message:

Quote:
The connected speaker does not support content that is copyright protected
Some searching tells me this is likely related to HDCP 2.2 but there's nothing I can find that says individual output channels like headphones would be affected? Can someone point me in the right direction?

2. This morning it suddenly couldn't find my headphones. I went through a half hour of trying to connect with no results. After turning BT completely off and rebooting the unit it seemed to work...
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post #342 of 910 Old 12-30-2018, 01:25 PM
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I just got the RX-V485 in part based on the comments in this thread, but particularly for the bluetooth streaming support. If anyone knows anything about the issues I posted in the RX-V485 Bluetooth drama thread in this forum, your assistance would be appreciated. (new boy, can't link)

(Posted to a separate thread because I suspect it may end up being quite long)
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post #343 of 910 Old 12-31-2018, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endorphin Junkie View Post
So I just upgraded (~12 hours ago!) from a Denon AVR-1916 to a RX-V485. One of the primary reasons for choosing the Yamaha over the Denon was bluetooth audio transmission. We want to be able to power up our headset and play a loud game or watch a movie while the other person is sleeping. (in the next room, but it's a small house)

Upgraded to 1.49 to get the bluetooth transmission. Spent hours trying to figure out how to transmit (hidden in the audio control of the musiccast app!)... <snip>
You don’t need to go into Musiccast just for headphones. Simply connect them from the “Bluetooth” section in the setup area. In there turn on Bluetooth then select Audio Send, turn on the transmitter, do a device search and pair to your headphones. Once connected, you should be able to hear through your phones even if you mute the speakers. Musiccast is used for wireless Musiccast speakers.
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post #344 of 910 Old 12-31-2018, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jpfe8851 View Post
You don’t need to go into Musiccast just for headphones. Simply connect them from the “Bluetooth” section in the setup area. In there turn on Bluetooth then select Audio Send, turn on the transmitter, do a device search and pair to your headphones. Once connected, you should be able to hear through your phones even if you mute the speakers. Musiccast is used for wireless Musiccast speakers.
You can pair them there, but you can't hear anything unless you select them as output in musiccast. Trust me, I paired 4 different sets and until I opened the musiccast app based on a blog post I found, I couldn't hear a thing in the headphones.

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post #345 of 910 Old 12-31-2018, 02:19 AM
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You don’t need to go into Musiccast just for headphones....
Is there a reason the bluetooth thread was merged here? It's not like you answered the question asked...

Why would the receiver be trying to do copyright enforcement against one set of headphones but be just fine with its sister pair? (same year release, same implementation, just a different form facter)

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post #346 of 910 Old 12-31-2018, 02:56 AM
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You can pair them there, but you can't hear anything unless you select them as output in musiccast. Trust me, I paired 4 different sets and until I opened the musiccast app based on a blog post I found, I couldn't hear a thing in the headphones.
Hmmm... my two Sony BT headphones worked immediately after pairing them on my V685. Model difference perhaps?

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Originally Posted by Endorphin Junkie View Post
Is there a reason the bluetooth thread was merged here? It's not like you answered the question asked...

Why would the receiver be trying to do copyright enforcement against one set of headphones but be just fine with its sister pair? (same year release, same implementation, just a different form facter)
This is the V*85 thread. His receiver is a V485. What’s your problem? And given my experience with my V685, I think I answered it. YMMV.

Have a nice day...
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post #347 of 910 Old 12-31-2018, 10:25 AM
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Is there a reason the bluetooth thread was merged here? It's not like you answered the question asked...
As a mod has pointed out, please post questions about a specific AVR in that AVR’s owners thread, not create new topics.

You’re a new user, so take a little time to see how the forum topics are organized. Using SEARCH will also help.
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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.

Last edited by ChromeJob; 12-31-2018 at 05:43 PM. Reason: removing merged title; a little more specific advice
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post #348 of 910 Old 12-31-2018, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by afrogt View Post
No, the RX-V685 can't do HDMI audio in Zone 2. Can't do optical or digital coax in Zone 2 either. Just analog and built in apps.
I don't see where you got that idea ... nothing in the manual reflects this. :-\
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Originally Posted by jpfe8851 View Post
There is an exception. If you are using Multi Zone Sync, an HDMI input on the main zone also plays in Zone 2. You can mute main if it’s unwanted there and control the volumes separately in each zone.

Also, optical and coax digital can be played independently in zone 2 while other sources are played in the main zone.
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... that must be a new feature for the 2018 68x models. Previous years couldn't play digital sources in Zone 2 until you got up to the Aventage A-108x models, maybe the A-8xx.
Zone 2 playback of HDCP covered inputs has been supported in at least a few models, perhaps since the *83 models. You'd have to go back through models to find the earlier ones (e.g. *79, *81?) that still restricted what you could play on Zone 2. The default Zone 2 Scenes are non-HDMI inputs but those can be changed (p. 111); I presume that's because Yamaha assumes that you wouldn't be viewing audio-visual content in the other room (excluding listening to music on a Chromecast, Fire TV Stick, et al).

I believe the *85 still restrict Zone 2 playback of a few inputs, like the exclusion on p. 54, e.g. if you select SERVER on Zone2 and USB is playing in the Main Zone, the Main Zone switches to SERVER as well.

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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.
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post #349 of 910 Old 12-31-2018, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jpfe8851 View Post
You don’t need to go into Musiccast just for headphones. Simply connect them from the “Bluetooth” section in the setup area. In there turn on Bluetooth then select Audio Send, turn on the transmitter, do a device search and pair to your headphones. Once connected, you should be able to hear through your phones even if you mute the speakers. Musiccast is used for wireless Musiccast speakers.
So I went back into the menu to see if I had missed anything, and realized why I missed it. When I select "Bluetooth" in the setup menu and then go to device search and select a device--any of the headphones, including the ones which work, I get a bluetooth white icon in a blue field and... nothing. Not only do it never show any info (I left it there a few hours), the menu does not respond again to back, up, down, nothing.

If I switch inputs to another screen and come back, the blue screen is gone but I can replicate the same behavior over again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpfe8851 View Post
Hmmm... my two Sony BT headphones worked immediately after pairing them on my V685. Model difference perhaps? This is the V*85 thread. His receiver is a V485. What’s your problem? And given my experience with my V685, I think I answered it. YMMV.
You didn't answer it. It "works for you" isn't an answer to the question asked. I asked how copyright control applies to bluetooth and why it would be saying that.

I've done some more investigating, and if I have Musiccast open when the headset connects I get the same message in the popups. If I navigate back to the input screen, I get a full screen message saying that... which is blatantly false, as several other headsets (including yours) can receive bluetooth audio fine. When this message displays, if I open up Bluetooth send and select a different headset then audio streams immediately to it.

So it would seem there are significant Bluetooth issues with the 4.85 and version 1.49. Given that the two headsets in question use the same bluetooth chip, offer the same profiles, etc etc there's no difference in the receivers in any functional way.
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post #350 of 910 Old 12-31-2018, 10:32 PM
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iPod controlled but snubbed by Yamaha RX-V485 ?

If I connect an iPod--anything from 4th to 7th (final) gen-- to the RX-V485 using the USB, the iPod shows a Yamaha logo and says "Connected", giving up control to the receiver.

However if I switch the input to USB, the receiver says no device is attached. I've tried 3 different iPods: a 4th gen, a 6th gen, and a 7th gen and they all have an identical experience. They all work properly with the same cable when attached to another receiver, a Mac, etc. If I connect them to something without the smarts to control them (e.g. my old Denon) then they charge but retain local control.

How does one engage the iPod to play back music? Why does the receiver engage it to remove local control, but then not see it?

There used to be a way to disable the iPod control so that I could use the wheel to play music, but the MODE button doesn't exist in RX-V*85 remotes. Here's how it used to work in older nodes: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46...page=60#manual

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post #351 of 910 Old 12-31-2018, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endorphin Junkie View Post
If I connect an iPod--anything from 4th to 7th (final) gen-- to the RX-V485 using the USB, the iPod shows a Yamaha logo and says "Connected", giving up control to the receiver.

However if I switch the input to USB, the receiver says no device is attached. I've tried 3 different iPods: a 4th gen, a 6th gen, and a 7th gen and they all have an identical experience. They all work properly with the same cable when attached to another receiver, a Mac, etc. If I connect them to something without the smarts to control them (e.g. my old Denon) then they charge but retain local control.

How does one engage the iPod to play back music? Why does the receiver engage it to remove local control, but then not see it?

There used to be a way to disable the iPod control so that I could use the wheel to play music, but the MODE button doesn't exist in RX-V*85 remotes. Here's how it used to work in older nodes: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46...page=60#manual

Yamaha hasn't supported iPod playback since the RX-V481, so you're out of luck sorry.
A larger USB stick would work, but mainly the market has moved onto network delivery of audio (Airplay / DLNA etc).
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post #352 of 910 Old 01-01-2019, 06:49 AM
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&quot;Official&quot; Yamaha RX-V*85/TSR-*850 Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Endorphin Junkie View Post
If I connect an iPod--anything from 4th to 7th (final) gen-- to the RX-V485 using the USB, the iPod shows a Yamaha logo and says "Connected", giving up control to the receiver.

However if I switch the input to USB, the receiver says no device is attached. I've tried 3 different iPods: a 4th gen, a 6th gen, and a 7th gen and they all have an identical experience. They all work properly with the same cable when attached to another receiver, a Mac, etc. If I connect them to something without the smarts to control them (e.g. my old Denon) then they charge but retain local control.

How does one engage the iPod to play back music? Why does the receiver engage it to remove local control, but then not see it?
I can’t speak for the iPod control software in your AVR, but give it a bit of time for the AVR to recognize and scan the device when connecting to USB. On my 160 Gb iPod with a 775, it takes a full minute or so for the AVR to scan the contents of the storage drive and then start navigating.

Another trick is I will start playing an album and then plug into the AVR. The selection(s) then continue to play through the AVR.
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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.

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post #353 of 910 Old 01-01-2019, 07:58 AM
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Sorry if this is a dumb question as the last iPod I have is the one that "became" the 3GS and my last iPhone was a 6.


Why not just use Airplay?

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I can’t speak for the iPod control software in your AVR, but give it a bit of time for the AVR to recognize and scan the device when connecting to USB. On my 160 Gb iPod with a 775, it takes a full minute or so for the AVR to scan the contents of the storage drive and then start navigating.

Another trick is I will start playing an album and then plug into the AVR. The selection(s) then continue to play through the AVR.
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post #354 of 910 Old 01-01-2019, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
I can’t speak for the iPod control software in your AVR, but give it a bit of time for the AVR to recognize and scan the device when connecting to USB. On my 160 Gb iPod with a 775, it takes a full minute or so for the AVR to scan the contents of the storage drive and then start navigating.
It was plugged in for over a day while I tried to find menu items or stuff to access it

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Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Another trick is I will start playing an album and then plug into the AVR. The selection(s) then continue to play through the AVR.
Good idea, thank! I'll give that a try.

...scribbles from an endorphin junkie
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post #355 of 910 Old 01-01-2019, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by rakstr View Post
Sorry if this is a dumb question as the last iPod I have is the one that "became" the 3GS and my last iPhone was a 6.

Why not just use Airplay?
TL;DR because we wanted minimal interaction, not another play with our phones situation

These are the original hard-disk-with-a-wheel iPods. They have no networking, no wireless. They just play music. This is why we like them, and snag them used off eBay

The goal is to have a bunch of music available to play with minimal interaction. For example, I have one in each car plugged into the radio. When I get into the car I don't have to fumble around with my phone (illegal in CA) to select what to play--all of my music is instantly available from the car stereo interface.

For this particular use case, we have an old stereo system with an iPod mount that plays music in the bedroom at night. That iPod is loaded up with "sleeping music" only. The stereo unit is aging and has some issues. One of the ideas I had was to move that iPod to the receiver, get some musiccast speakers and create a Sleeping scene that output only to the bedroom.

Unfortunately, this is a scenario where the alternative sucks. Yes, the phones can do airplay, but that means that we're tied to one of our phones (what if that person is traveling?) and we have to select it, and we have to ensure the phone is plugged in, blah blah blah a bunch of stuff to do right when we're tired and going to bed and don't want think about stuff. I was aiming for a one-button select a scene go to bed--with hopes of Google Home or Siri controls arriving later so I can just add it to our "bedtime" macro.

I'm guessing that my only alternative here is to load up a USB stick with the sleeping music? In my experience this is again a "play with our phones" situation because USB stick interfaces don't revert to playing the same playlist automatically, you have to selected it and configure play all, random, etc every time.

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Last edited by Endorphin Junkie; 01-01-2019 at 11:50 AM.
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post #356 of 910 Old 01-01-2019, 11:51 AM
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Sounds like you need a handful of USB sticks for your music. Most every car/AVR/... these days have a player built in for USB sticks.
Even my 2009 Audi that I have the over priced Apple interface in will play from a USB stick Ditch the iPods!! Sorry, seems like the obvious solution to me!

Anyway, this is a thread specific to the *850 family and I know they play from a stick or from a network. Many routers these days (ASUS) have a built in DLNA server and 2 or more USB ports that support sticks and drives .....

GOOD LUCK!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Endorphin Junkie View Post
TL;DR because we wanted minimal interaction, not another play with our phones situation

These are the original hard-disk-with-a-wheel iPods. They have no networking, no wireless. They just play music. This is why we like them, and snag them used off eBay

The goal is to a bunch of music available to play with minimal interaction. For example, I have one in each car plugged into the radio. When I get into the car I don't have to fumble around with my phone (illegal in CA) to select what to play--all of my music is instantly available from the car stereo interface.

For this particular use case, we have an old stereo system with an iPod mount that plays music in the bedroom at night. That iPod is loaded up with "sleeping music" only. The stereo unit is aging and has some issues. One of the ideas I had was to move that iPod to the receiver, get some musiccast speakers and create a Sleeping scene that output only to the bedroom.

Unfortunately, this is a scenario where the alternative sucks. Yes, the phones can do airplay, but that means that we're tied to one of our phones (what if that person is traveling?) and we have to select it, and we have to ensure the phone is plugged in, blah blah blah a bunch of stuff to do right when we're tired and going to bed and don't want think about stuff. I was aiming for a one-button select a scene go to bed--with hopes of Google Home or Siri controls arriving later so I can just add it to our "bedtime" macro.

I'm guessing that my only alternative here is to load up a USB stick with the sleeping music?
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post #357 of 910 Old 01-01-2019, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rakstr View Post
Sounds like you need a handful of USB sticks for your music. Most every car/AVR/... these days have a player built in for USB sticks. Even my 2009 Audi that I have the over priced Apple interface in will play from a USB stick Ditch the iPods!! Sorry, seems like the obvious solution to me!
It is an obvious solution, but it's an annoying/not as useful solution. iPods have a significant feature unavailable in USB sticks: they retain your playlist, play settings, etc. Every time I switch something to a USB interface I have to go select the music and the play settings, etc etc. It's even more "play with your phone" than selecting it in the music player and selecting to play to Airplay.

Gone are the days that you have to prime the gas pump on your car, warm up the carburator, etc as the "simple" steps to get your car ready to drive. Going from iPod to USB sticks feels like going backwards like that, and losing a few minutes of time EVERY TIME when I really want a click and go interface.

I don't mind complicated setups if they give me simplicity when I'm tired and just want it to work ;-)

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post #358 of 910 Old 01-01-2019, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rakstr View Post
Anyway, this is a thread specific to the *850 family and I know they play from a stick or from a network. Many routers these days (ASUS) have a built in DLNA server and 2 or more USB ports that support sticks and drives...
I think this is likely going to be my only choice. If I can
  • find a DLNA player that retains music playlists and play settings, and resumes them automatically on connect
  • Create a scene which automatically connects to that DLNA server and outputs only to the bedroom

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post #359 of 910 Old 01-01-2019, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endorphin Junkie View Post
I think this is likely going to be my only choice. If I can
  • find a DLNA player that retains music playlists and play settings, and resumes them automatically on connect
  • Create a scene which automatically connects to that DLNA server and outputs only to the bedroom
It's disappointing that the more recent AVRs don't have iPod Classic interfaces included. I imagine they had to pay licensing fees to Apple to do this.


I was in much the same situation as you several years ago. I have about 2000 CDs and wanted to rip them to an all inclusive media library. I had the RX-V663 with 30-pin iPod dock, so it made great sense to use an iPod Classic 120Gb or 160Gb to hold all of it; I got one for a Christmas present. I have about half the CDs ripped to the tune of about 80Gb or more of music, past episodes of This American Life, and some audiobooks, all kept on hard drive and the iPod Classic.

I tried iTunes for about 20 minutes and put it away in disgust, and bought a full-featured music library app, MediaMonkey [MM], which syncs to a wide variety of devices (incl. iPods, phones) and gives you far greater control over music, playlists, autoplaylists, automatic library organization, automatic tagging of downloaded podcasts, yada yada yada. Newer versions of MM will do DLNA from the computer it's on. I kept the media library on a dedicated NAS, until that died, and I had to restore it all from the iPod to a new 1.5Tb drive (and MM made quick work of reorganizing tracks copied from the iPod Classic). The music library now resides on this 1.5Tb drive plugged into a Netgear R6700 router that offers sharing of the drive's partitions as multiple Windows shares, as well DLNA sharing, and even access to the drive from the Internet when I'm away from home. If you don't have a home router with this feature, a new router + a flash drive is an affordable solution (Apple has their own flavor of this as well, perhaps still called Time Machine or something like that). (BTW, if you use iTunes on a Macbook, an Apple router and/or an Apple TV could be your updated way to play your iTunes library on the AVR. Actually, you might not even need the Macbook, if the ATV will play your iTunes library from the cloud. I don't use their ecosystem, so can't speak for it.)

Meanwhile Google's Play Music service [GPM] lets you upload boatloads of your tracks to their service for free, first 10,000 tracks, then 20,000, I think they're up to 50,000. Obviously, they match what you've got in their library already, discard what you upload and grant you access to what's in their library; it usually works out. But easily 1/3 of my library are obscure tracks they don't have, so their offer is especially advantageous for me. I have access to all my digital music from anywhere through the Google Play Music service: car, office, home, etc. GPM lets you stream your own music from their service, and download for offline playback in the app. I have no need to "sync" my music to a phone since it's online 24/7/365 anyway. (For inquiring minds, it took roughly 72 hours to sync my entire library to their service. There were some glitches, but something like 1% of the total.)

My upgrade to an RX-v775 with its SERVER function lets me play music direct from the DLNA share on my router. (And they did away with the proprietary dock. ) At times, it takes many minutes (nearly an hour) to index the 10,000+ tracks on the share, and then let me browse them. But the DLNA share is up all the time, so generally the AVR can browse the music pretty speedily. It's quicker to scroll through 80-90 artist folders using the AV Controller app for iOS and Android than the web or on-screen interface, and the app lets you jump ahead in the list. I presume that more recent models are faster due to newer processors.

With a Google Chromecast [CC] plugged into the AVR (and the CC is always powered on), I can initiate playback from any tablet or phone, streaming direct from the GPM service. (A CC Audio works too, but won't wake the AVR and TV via HDMI like a CC will.) Unlike Bluetooth solutions, or Airplay, the CC streams the content directly from the internet, not from the phone/device. Generally I use this method since with Google Play Music All-Access, I can also play other music or radio mixes based on my music library and theirs, or just play music from my library (on their service).

My iPod Classic? It sits in a Crossley 30-pin dock plugged into a 2.1 powered speaker system in the bedroom. With a CC Audio I bought cheap this Christmas, I sometimes plug that into the speakers, but it normally stays on the AVR so I can listen to music without the TV screen on.



So there are some options. A DLNA router with a USB 3.0 option to plug a drive into. Or an Apple TV using iTunes library in the cloud. Or use Google's service to stream your music from anywhere.

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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
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post #360 of 910 Old 01-01-2019, 05:49 PM
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Question MusicCast speaker experiences

I'm wondering if people with musiccast speakers can offer some thoughts on speaker to use for bedroom.

Looking at all the choices, I'm thinking that mounting a single WX-030 in the center of the wall facing the bed will leverage the way it supposedly uses the walls, and reviews seem to indicate it would work well for this.

I doubt we'll ever play this very loud. Maybe sometime one of us might turn it up enough to block out someone else being loud in another room. We don't care about bass response. We mostly listen to instrumental jazz at a low level while sleeping. Harsh, unnatural sounds we currently get at random from the current cheap radio are much more likely to wake me up

Key points:

* How stable connectivity is, and how it responds when loss. If we go to sleep and it loses connectivity for whatever reason, I want that failure to be QUIET.

* Power loss / connectivity loss response. The current cheap early wireless unit will randomly reboot about once a month. When this happens, or any time power loss occurs, it switches to radio and resets to volume 7 which is a loud blast that wakes us up. Same with if we have a power loss. I'm looking for something that will be quiet if power goes away and comes back.

In short, I want something stable and reliable--but failing reliable I want it to be QUIET and less us sleep through the failure

...scribbles from an endorphin junkie
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