"Official" Yamaha RX-V*85/TSR-*850 Owners Thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 1025 Old 10-22-2018, 10:49 PM
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Thanx ChromeJob. Did this already and had put the ones side by side. Downloaded manual. Based on 'everything' guess it will/must be the V685. That suits my needs. Waiting for the 13th months to add a sub and new surroundspeakers, but might order everything a bit earlier or simply wait if there are some nice offers on Black Friday.
Unfortunately the stuff is a bit more expensive over here then in the US. Looks like they replace the $-sign with the €-sign. :-(

But might order the V685 this week.

Greetings, Dick

A: Yamaha RX-V685, JBL large speakers, Polka center, MusicCast 20, Jamo SUB210
V: Samsung UE55MU6440, Samsung BD-E6100
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post #62 of 1025 Old 10-23-2018, 04:07 AM
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Update: ordered it. Some information of Yamaha which might be of use with respect to adding MusicCast-speakers:

---

Hi Dick, I personally would recommend you the RXV685 its a very nice and solid AV receiver with all the new standards incl. Wireless Surround with MusicCast (MC) 20 and 50.

It is just possible to set the MC 20 and 50 as Surround speakers. The WX010/030 do have hardware limitation, thats why you can't set them as Wireless Surround.

Furthermore of course you can have more MC 20, MC50, WX010, WX030 in different rooms and link them to your RXV685. Its possible with 10 speakers via WiFi and 20 via LAN cable.

Have a good day ??
Daniel

---
10 speakers will be more than enough. ;-)

Greetings, Dick

A: Yamaha RX-V685, JBL large speakers, Polka center, MusicCast 20, Jamo SUB210
V: Samsung UE55MU6440, Samsung BD-E6100
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post #63 of 1025 Old 10-23-2018, 05:32 AM
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I have been using a 3.1 setup with a Pioneer receiver for the last few years. My room setup does not accommodate rear surrounds and the 3.1 speakers have been pretty good. But I am really missing the surround sound feel and came across the V385 and the V585 with their Virtual CINEMA FRONT/DSP setting. Also as a bonus they both allow for Bi-Amping the fronts which I have the ability to do with the speakers but my current receiver does not support it. So my dilema is over which receiver to get, the 385 vs the 585. And it comes down to what I would benefit from. I do have some surround speakers I could hook up for Virtual CINEMA FRONT. The placement of the surrounds for that setup would be about 2 feet about the fronts. This could allow for 3.1.2.



385
Keep 3.1 setup, Bi-Amp fronts, run Virtual CINEMA DSP. Could option to not Bi-Amp the fronts and run Virtual CINEMA FRONT.


585

Can Bi-Amp Fronts and still run the 5.1 Virtual CINEMA FRONT. Option to not Bi-Amp and possibly run a 3.1.2 setup with surrounds.


Obviously the 585 is going to have more features and be future proof. So maybe that is the way to go. But I could save about $120 going with the 385.


So my main question is, is the Front CINEMA settings really that good. My room setup is I have a wall about 3 feet from the right side and then its open on the left side for about 14 feet to the wall there. So it might not do much since I wouldn't have the walls for the sound to bounce off of? In that case I would just save the money and get the 385 and stay with my 3.1 setup. But then also being able to put the surrounds up higher on the front, I could go with the 585 and get a 3.1.2 setup going. But I am not sure if I understand the speaker placement correctly.


Thanks for your input.
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post #64 of 1025 Old 10-23-2018, 09:42 AM
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Forget bi-amping. 99.9% of the time it does nothing but waste cable and your time. I've never used the "virtual surround" modes as I've had 5.0 or 5.1 systems for 20+ years. They may work for you, but will not be the equal of true, discrete surround sound speakers.

Dick, good call. If you need component, you need it. But check the manual's video conversion chart (pp 168-169): my 775 does NOT convert progressive component input (e.g. 480p from a DVD player or PS2) to HDMI OUT to my TV, so I had to duplicate with a Component OUT to the TV for those rare uses.[1] Look into the speaker section of the forum for tips on direct-internet merchants of speakers who may save you some coin. There are also members here who sell their gear when they upgrade, though you may have to build up your forum post count (no speed posting!) to participate in a member sales section.

[1] Looks like the 685 only does 480i/576i through component IN => HDMI OUT.

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Last edited by ChromeJob; 10-23-2018 at 10:00 AM.
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post #65 of 1025 Old 10-23-2018, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Forget bi-amping. 99.9% of the time it does nothing but waste cable and your time. I've never used the "virtual surround" modes as I've had 5.0 or 5.1 systems for 20+ years. They may work for you, but will not be the equal of true, discrete surround sound speakers.

Dick, good call. If you need component, you need it. But check the manual's video conversion chart: my 775 does NOT convert component input (e.g. 480p from a DVD player or PS2) to HDMI OUT to my TV, so I had to duplicate with a Component OUT to the TV for those rare uses. Look into the speaker section of the forum for tips on direct-internet merchants of speakers who may save you some coin. There are also members here who sell their gear when they upgrade, though you may have to build up your forum post count (no speed posting!) to participate in a member sales section.
Ok so bi-amping doesn't seem to be worth it, or at least shouldn't be a factor in my choice. Thanks for the info, that makes me lean towards the 385 since I think it can do all I need it to and I am not super concerned with being ready for Atmos speaker craziness.
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post #66 of 1025 Old 10-23-2018, 09:59 AM
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Only other thing I can suggest (that's bitten me in the past) is not to buy an amp that ONLY has enough connections for what you have now. Yamahas last for years, and in that time you may acquire a streaming device (Roku, Apple TV, Amazon Fire, Chromecast), digital set-top cable device, or even a computer to plug in and view on the big screen. Having extras costs a bit more now, but is much easier than all the ad hoc rewiring needed when you run out of connections on the main switching AVR.
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post #67 of 1025 Old 10-23-2018, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Only other thing I can suggest (that's bitten me in the past) is not to buy an amp that ONLY has enough connections for what you have now.
While I follow all the RX-V threads, I still use a RX-V867. It works just the same as when I bought it and I need the inputs. Maybe if I didn't buy so much stuff maybe I could cut back. But I don't need 4k, so even though I would prefer 802.11ac, it's not a deciding type factor.
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post #68 of 1025 Old 10-24-2018, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Only other thing I can suggest (that's bitten me in the past) is not to buy an amp that ONLY has enough connections for what you have now. Yamahas last for years, and in that time you may acquire a streaming device (Roku, Apple TV, Amazon Fire, Chromecast), digital set-top cable device, or even a computer to plug in and view on the big screen. Having extras costs a bit more now, but is much easier than all the ad hoc rewiring needed when you run out of connections on the main switching AVR.
Well, as I know have a smart-tv I could go with lesser connections. The mediaplayer could go away and the satellite-receiver (occassionally being used) as the new tv had a built-in DVB-S. So actually the only things I have to add is the TV-settop-box, DVD-player and Wii. And only one of them has HDMI, which is lacking on my almost 13 year old Pioneer though. ;-)

Can we assume that by equipment getting smarter we don't need that much connections anymore?

With respect to the remark of your component to HDMI: hmmm... will check it. Otherwise I could have gone without component. And I'm not using the DVD-player that often anymore, also being used for CD's. Or simply replace that one with a newer one.

Greetings, Dick

A: Yamaha RX-V685, JBL large speakers, Polka center, MusicCast 20, Jamo SUB210
V: Samsung UE55MU6440, Samsung BD-E6100
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post #69 of 1025 Old 10-25-2018, 08:36 AM
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Yesterday I received my V685. Out of the box connected the speakers and as I couldn't find my spare HDMI connected the optical out from the tv to the receiver. Amazed by the sound out of the box. And dialog clearly from my centerspeaker when watching a Netflix-series, of which I hadn't watched an ep before on my old set, so no comparison.
Today I did some further configuration. I have the settopbox also connected to the receiver and passes through to the TV. Still doubiting if I don't connect that directly to the tv and then use optical for the sound. As it might sometimes be confusing for the rest of the household. If I leave and put receiver on standby but forget to put it on the settopbox-input, they might not know what to do. ;-)
I ran YPAO this afternoon. That discovered 2 speakers not connected correctly. It was late yesterday-evening. ;-)

Next month I'm planning to add 2 MusicCasts 20.
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Greetings, Dick

A: Yamaha RX-V685, JBL large speakers, Polka center, MusicCast 20, Jamo SUB210
V: Samsung UE55MU6440, Samsung BD-E6100
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post #70 of 1025 Old 10-25-2018, 10:11 AM
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TSR-7850 Product page updated with Owner's Manual and Quick Start Guide.
https://usa.yamaha.com/support/manua...&c=&k=tsr-7850

couldn't attach the files as they're too large but you should be able to DL from the link above.
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post #71 of 1025 Old 10-25-2018, 11:26 AM
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"Official" Yamaha RX-V*85/TSR-*850 Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by DikkieDick View Post
Can we assume that by equipment getting smarter we don't need that much connections anymore?


IMHO “smart TVs” are overrated. The apps on my Samsung were updated haphazardly, and Samsung dropped support of my model from their iOS/Android apps in only 3 years (did they expect I would just trash it and buy another??). Bear in mind that services like Netflix, Filmstruck, et al, can only spend so much on software updates, and with an increasing number of device OS’ to keep an app up to date on, it becomes a game of whack-a-mole. The Amazon, Netflix, and YouTube apps on my TV were not updated nearly as quickly than on dedicated streaming devices. My observation is that the streaming device apps get updates sooner, and for far longer, than they do on last year’s (or earlier) smart TVs. The last time I checked my “smart” TV and “smart” BD player, the apps were woefully behind.



Tl’dr, don’t bank on that smart TV being the be-all and end-all streaming source. There’s a reason that Apple TVs and Rokus are popular, they’re updated regularly (my 2-3 year old Apple TV was recently upgraded to TV OS 12), and the apps are kept current to remain competitive. No one will pay for a service that doesn’t update their app on the most popular streaming platforms. So if you use Amazon Prime Video once in a while, sure that TV is fine. But for a service you pay a monthly subscription for, you want top performance and reliability.[1]



Just my two cents. Intended for Character_Zero who is currently weighing tipping-point features vs cost.



[1] Case in point, Netflix had regular audio drop outs on my TV, not on Chromecast (same content, same audio stream). Discussions here and elsewhere detailed complaints to both Netflix and Samsung, with each pointing fingers at each other. Finally after 8 months, I jumped ship to a dedicated device, and haven’t looked back.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi54 View Post
TSR-7850 Product page updated with Owner's Manual and Quick Start Guide.

https://usa.yamaha.com/support/manua...&c=&k=tsr-7850





couldn't attach the files as they're too large but you should be able to DL from the link above.
NO need to attach the files, as they may be updated by Yamaha at a later date. It’s better to download the latest version from the source. That’s why I link to the product pages in Post #1 .

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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
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post #72 of 1025 Old 10-25-2018, 09:40 PM
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My RV-475 HDMI Output signal in the home theater is now too weak after 5 years to get to the projector and expensive to fix. I am thinking of replacing that unit with my lounge RX-V673 which has been great with Zone 2 for outside. Now thinking of getting the RX-V685 for the lounge and have a question on Zone 2 set up.

On the RX-V685 back layout, it shows speaker hook up for (Extra SP1) as Surround Back/Zone 2/Bi Amp and another (Extra SP2) as Front Presence/Zone 2

I have 4 x 4 ohm speakers outside and the house builder incorrectly installed a speaker cable back from each of the speakers instead of series them up outside and only bring 2 pairs back to the AV Receiver. At the moment the 4 cables are series up at the receiver to get 8 ohm for 2 sets of inputs making long audio runs. I only use the lounge set up as 5.1 and was wondering if it is possible to the hook the 4 pairs up separately over SP1 and SP2, each 4 ohm and both will work only when Zone 2 is on. I guess there could be some adjustment to be made for SP1 outputs so they are not on at the same time when only Zone 1 is selected.

With (Extra SP1) mentioning Zone 2, I am thinking it might be possible to hook up 4 speakers separately now and checking if this will work. Thanks
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post #73 of 1025 Old 10-26-2018, 08:51 AM
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"Official" Yamaha RX-V*85/TSR-*850 Owners Thread

NIgel, maybe it’s my pre-caffeinated state, but I don’t know what you’re describing. Maybe a diagram would help. But in general you should connect speakers as recommended by the manufacturer, and not some peculiar wiring system.

Speaker impedance is not like plain, static resistance so that you can add up the Ω with simple arithmetic. Unless my electronics knowledge is rusted beyond use, you can’t put two 4Ω speakers in a series circuit and get 8Ω.
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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.

Last edited by ChromeJob; 10-26-2018 at 08:54 AM.
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post #74 of 1025 Old 10-26-2018, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DikkieDick View Post
Yesterday I received my V685. Out of the box connected the speakers and as I couldn't find my spare HDMI connected the optical out from the tv to the receiver. Amazed by the sound out of the box. And dialog clearly from my centerspeaker when watching a Netflix-series, of which I hadn't watched an ep before on my old set, so no comparison.
Today I did some further configuration. I have the settopbox also connected to the receiver and passes through to the TV. Still doubiting if I don't connect that directly to the tv and then use optical for the sound. As it might sometimes be confusing for the rest of the household. If I leave and put receiver on standby but forget to put it on the settopbox-input, they might not know what to do. ;-)
I ran YPAO this afternoon. That discovered 2 speakers not connected correctly. It was late yesterday-evening. ;-)

Next month I'm planning to add 2 MusicCasts 20.
You won't regret adding the 2 MusicCast 20s. I also got a V685 this week with two MC 20s. It sounds incredible! I'm new to Yamaha receivers, and I am quite impressed with the sound right out of the box. One thing I love about the V685 is the Dolby surround processing. If you are a cordcutter like me and have YouTube TV, PS Vue, or Sling, my biggest gripe was that they all only broadcast in 2.0. Dolby Surround Processing is light years better than ProLogic II and does a great job of converting the sound from 2.0 to 5.1.
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post #75 of 1025 Old 10-26-2018, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
NIgel, maybe it’s my pre-caffeinated state, but I don’t know what you’re describing. Maybe a diagram would help. But in general you should connect speakers as recommended by the manufacturer, and not some peculiar wiring system.

Speaker impedance is not like plain, static resistance so that you can add up the Ω with simple arithmetic. Unless my electronics knowledge is rusted beyond use, you can’t put two 4Ω speakers in a series circuit and get 8Ω.
I have had my exterior 4 ohm speakers connected in series for 5 years now with no problems. When you series up 2 x 4 ohms speakers you get 8 ohms connected, same as rest of speaker set up. If I connect them up in parallel you would only get 2 ohms connected. I have speakers set up 2 either side of my alfresco giving a stereo affect.

It looks like the RX-V685 can accept either 4 ohms or 8 ohm speakers. It also mentions in SP2, Zone 2. Including the one in SP1, it looks like for the RX-V685 it might be able to hook up 4 x speakers singly for use in Zone 2 with less audio loss because of the series hook up point back at the AV.

Have attached wiring diagram that should help explain.
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post #76 of 1025 Old 10-26-2018, 11:45 PM
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Just to clarify... you have 5.1 in the theatre and you're now looking to connect a pair of outdoor speakers into the Extra Sp1 terminals AND another pair of outdoor speakers into Extra Sp2's terminals?
If so - it won't work as the RX-V685 only has 7 channels of amplification.
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post #77 of 1025 Old 10-26-2018, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Futrader8 View Post
You won't regret adding the 2 MusicCast 20s. I also got a V685 this week with two MC 20s. It sounds incredible! I'm new to Yamaha receivers, and I am quite impressed with the sound right out of the box. One thing I love about the V685 is the Dolby surround processing. If you are a cordcutter like me and have YouTube TV, PS Vue, or Sling, my biggest gripe was that they all only broadcast in 2.0. Dolby Surround Processing is light years better than ProLogic II and does a great job of converting the sound from 2.0 to 5.1.
That's great news. And indeed out of the box sound was quite impressive. I've modified connection as if I connect the settopbox to the Yamaha that would work when watching 'normal' tv, but using the Netflix-app, Youtube, or other apps I had to extra stuff and to have it that convenient for the rest in the house I connected the settopbox directly to the TV, and an HDMI from TV to receiver but that didn't give sound, so I need to still use the optical.

DVD works also fine, only DVD-resolution on this new 4K-screen is lousy. Connected via component and digital audio (coax). DTS sound was really incredible.
Couldn't find the FM-antenna in the box, so used the one provided with the Pioneer. Also connected the AM-antenna. Guess I never won't use it. And FM is also not required actually due to the possibility of Net Radio, so 'all' stations added to favourites.

One thing about the app. If I have it on 7 channel-stereo, I can enter my sitting/listening position and it will change the volume of the speakers. Would be better if I could move the sitting person in that app and that it then would calculate the settings. I was sitting on the couch near the right surround speaker, but then I have to change the position in the app to the left front speaker.

It's my first Yamaha as well. I initially started my search for a Heos Bar or Heos AVR when someone mentioned the Yamaha. I heard the Yamaha bar a few weeks ago in a shop and was quite impressed.

Greetings, Dick

A: Yamaha RX-V685, JBL large speakers, Polka center, MusicCast 20, Jamo SUB210
V: Samsung UE55MU6440, Samsung BD-E6100
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post #78 of 1025 Old 10-27-2018, 02:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunnersfella View Post
Just to clarify... you have 5.1 in the theatre and you're now looking to connect a pair of outdoor speakers into the Extra Sp1 terminals AND another pair of outdoor speakers into Extra Sp2's terminals?
If so - it won't work as the RX-V685 only has 7 channels of amplification.
Yes, lounge only uses 5.1 so it may be possible to get another 2 pair out to 2 speakers. I guess there has to be some sort of programming modification to the channel outlet to get it to Zone 2 otherwise it would stay on the same time as Zone 1. We usually turn Zone 1 off while we are outside for a while especially when someone want to watch the TV in the lounge.
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post #79 of 1025 Old 10-27-2018, 02:00 PM
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Also set up a new RX-V685 today. This is my third Yamaha receiver over a time period of about 20 years, and I really like the ability to change so many settings from the on-screen menus. I also like that these receivers seem to run so cool. I often think of maybe trying a Denon or Onkyo, but I keep coming back to Yamaha because I have never had any issues and they always sound great.
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post #80 of 1025 Old 10-27-2018, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nigel T View Post
I have had my exterior 4 ohm speakers connected in series for 5 years now with no problems. When you series up 2 x 4 ohms speakers you get 8 ohms connected, same as rest of speaker set up. If I connect them up in parallel you would only get 2 ohms connected. I have speakers set up 2 either side of my alfresco giving a stereo affect.

It looks like the RX-V685 can accept either 4 ohms or 8 ohm speakers. It also mentions in SP2, Zone 2. Including the one in SP1, it looks like for the RX-V685 it might be able to hook up 4 x speakers singly for use in Zone 2 with less audio loss because of the series hook up point back at the AV.

Have attached wiring diagram that should help explain.
I see, thanks for the diagram. I've seen people discuss wiring speakers like that, I can't comment on its effectiveness. But my training was that impedance is NOT the same as static resistance. Putting two nominally rated 4ohm (impedance) speakers in series does not equal 8ohm equivalent impedance. You can find more help in the Speaker section of the forum, likely someone else has done this.

As to the AVR working with this unconventional wiring, check the manual. You need both SP1 and SP2 playing the exact same content? Perhaps in Party Mode if the 685 offers that.
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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.
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post #81 of 1025 Old 10-27-2018, 05:14 PM
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Atmos

Can someone tell me how I can tell if Dolby Atmos is on when using ARC on my TSR-7850?

When watching a source connected to the receiver through normal HDMI, I can use the receiver's onscreen info to view the audio format but when using ARC, i.e. watching Netflix or Amazon Prime on my LG C8 using the built-in apps, it won't display the receiver menu on-screen so I'm not sure how to check.

Is there a way to display the audio format on the receiver display panel?
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post #82 of 1025 Old 10-27-2018, 09:13 PM
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"Official" Yamaha RX-V*85/TSR-*850 Owners Thread

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Can someone tell me how I can tell if Dolby Atmos is on when using ARC on my TSR-7850?
When watching a source connected to the receiver through normal HDMI, I can use the receiver's onscreen info to view the audio format but when using ARC, i.e. watching Netflix or Amazon Prime on my LG C8 using the built-in apps, it won't display the receiver menu on-screen so I'm not sure how to check.
Is there a way to display the audio format on the receiver display panel?
If it's like older units, press the INFO button on the remote (on some models, it's on the front panel) to cycle between front panel displays.

… You want to stop on "Audio Decoder name." I think I will show "Dolby Atmos" if object data is detected in the audio content.

Oh there it is, thanks Jedi54. P. 61 of the 7850 owner's manual.



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Last edited by ChromeJob; 10-29-2018 at 09:58 AM. Reason: Clarification
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As to the AVR working with this unconventional wiring, check the manual. You need both SP1 and SP2 playing the exact same content? Perhaps in Party Mode if the 685 offers that.
685 offers party mode.

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If it's like older units, press the INFO button on the remote (on some models, it's on the front panel) to cycle between front panel displays.

I don't have the 7850 manual, but in most AVRs, check the page with the picture of the remote, look for the INFO button description, proceed to that page (p. 89 in the RX-V683 manual). You want to stop on "Audio Decoder name." I think I will show "Dolby Atmos" if object data is detected in the audio content.

Oh there it is, thanks Jedi54. P. 61 of the 7850 owner's manual.

Aha, the button is on the receiver! I think I pressed every button on the remote searching for something that would do it, even tried the app and couldn't find anything

Would have been nice to have it on the remote but at least it stays on the display once you press the Info button, even after changing sources.

Thanks for the help!
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The owner's manual is your friend.
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In reading the owner's manual for my RX-V685, it says when optimizing the speakers with YPAO that you should set the crossover to the max allowed by your subwoofer, which in my case is 125Hz. It also says in another part of the manual to set the crossover to the max when using a subwoofer.

OTOH, the manual for my M&K speakers and M&K subwoofer says that the subwoofer and speakers typically work best with a crossover of 80Hz.

I'm wondering if you guys have any thoughts on what might be best. In particular, is there something with the YPAO that makes a higher crossover better? Any thoughts on whether it would be better to go with what the M&K manual says, or whether I should go with Yamaha's recommendation? I know I could try both and see what I like best, but I thought somebody might have an explanation for Yamaha's recommendation.

Thanks in advance.
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"Official" Yamaha RX-V*85/TSR-*850 Owners Thread

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Originally Posted by smitty View Post
In reading the owner's manual for my RX-V685, it says when optimizing the speakers with YPAO that you should set the crossover to the max allowed by your subwoofer, which in my case is 125Hz. It also says in another part of the manual to set the crossover to the max when using a subwoofer.



OTOH, the manual for my M&K speakers and M&K subwoofer says that the subwoofer and speakers typically work best with a crossover of 80Hz.



I'm wondering if you guys have any thoughts on what might be best. In particular, is there something with the YPAO that makes a higher crossover better? Any thoughts on whether it would be better to go with what the M&K manual says, or whether I should go with Yamaha's recommendation? I know I could try both and see what I like best, but I thought somebody might have an explanation for Yamaha's recommendation.



Thanks in advance.
Are you using an RCA/line-level input to the subwoofer, from the AVR's "PRE-OUT Subwoofer?" If so, then set the high pass crossover on the subwoofer to off or wide open.[1] This is because the AVR will be doing the "crossover" duty of sending only ultra low frequency sound (ULF) to the sub and the rest to the other speakers. Some subs do not even apply the high pass filter on inputs to the RCA line-level input, but Yamaha's recommendation is for the minority that might.



M&K's recommendation of 80 hz on teh high pass filter is almost certainly for configurations running speaker outputs from an AVR through the sub, with the speakers plugged into the sub's OUTPUT. In that case, yes, the Dolby default of 80 Hz works well for most speaker systems. (For bookshelf speakers, you might want to use 100 Hz or 110 Hz.) (You can find more information on 2.1 sub and speaker systems in the Speaker section of the forum.)



... General advice is to set the gain on the sub to say 35%, then run YPAO. If YPAO sets the sub (EDIT) more than 3 (e.g. 4, 5, 6), then set the gain up 10% more, then run YPAO again. When YPAO sets the sub level between -2 and +2, you're good. Some like to leave it at +2 if they are using a subwoofer's "auto on" feature. The slightly boosted level from the AVR will more readily trip the sub's auto-on detection.



[1] The sub crossover is when you are using it as the filter, plugging left and right speaker connections to the sub; it then takes the ULF for itself and "passes on" the higher freqs to the left and right speakers attached to the sub's output. When you have the sub connected to a dedicated "Sub OUT" connection from the AVR, this high pass filter is not used.

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Last edited by ChromeJob; 10-29-2018 at 09:30 AM. Reason: correcting my confusing YPAO instructions
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Thanks so much CromeJob. That's very helpful, and much appreciated.
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So I ran the YPAO, and the settings were more or less what I expected given the speaker distances and placements. But one thing that was weird to me was that it set my surround speakers, which are in-ceiling speakers, to "large." Should I leave it like that, or should I set them to "small." Or maybe it doesn't make any difference?

Actually, the whole thing doesn't make any sense to me. The YPAO set the crossover for the L and R speaker to 200 Hz, and the center to 100 Hz, even though they are identical speakers. In addition, my understanding is that the max crossover point on the sub is 125 Hz.

I think I'll try to set the crossover at 80 Hz and set all the speakers to small and then try to do it manually.

Last edited by smitty; 10-28-2018 at 08:13 PM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty View Post
So I ran the YPAO, and the settings were more or less what I expected given the speaker distances and placements. But one thing that was weird to me was that it set my surround speakers, which are in-ceiling speakers, to "large." Should I leave it like that, or should I set them to "small." Or maybe it doesn't make any difference?
Actually, the whole thing doesn't make any sense to me. The YPAO set the crossover for the L and R speaker to 200 Hz, and the center to 100 Hz, even though they are identical speakers. In addition, my understanding is that the max crossover point on the sub is 125 Hz.
I think I'll try to set the crossover at 80 Hz and set all the speakers to small and then try to do it manually.
I have a 5.1 system. The space is small. I have "small" surround speakers and very large front speakers. The sub-woofer is not set to "Always On', so I only see the LED indicate an active sub-woofer when an LFE signal is present. I set my surround speakers to "Large" or the sub-woofer will always be enabled. Some of my content is DD 2.0 and I would not expect the sub-woofer to be enabled. I set my crossover to 80Hhz. This may have changed with the V*85 series. But it is a quick test.
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