"OFFICIAL" 2019 Denon "S-Series" / "X-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ (Posts 1-8) - Page 31 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #901 of 1065 Old 11-18-2019, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt2026 View Post
Until someone comes along who can assist you, I suggest you look at post #1 in this thread, if you haven't done so already, and you will see notes as to items dropped or added 2018 vs 2019.
Yeah, I did, but that first post seems to be mostly geared to "what changed" generally with the entire model line, and specifically what is different with regard to the 3600 and 2600, a model I'm not considering. I was hoping for more of a brief "layman's summary" of the difference between the 3500 and 3600 beyond the additional 2 amplified channels and the addition of bluetooth headphone capability. That first post really isn't constructed that way, and that's okay. I was just hoping for a more targeted answer.

I'm not sure if we're supposed to discuss price here, but I can get the 3500 for around $130 to $230 less (depending on any Black Friday deals) than the 3600. I'm trying to figure out if the extra dough for this year's model is worth it.

One thing that did surprise me is no support yet for HDMI 2.1. Guess it won't really matter for awhile though.
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post #902 of 1065 Old 11-18-2019, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by archiguy View Post
Yeah, I did, but that first post seems to be mostly geared to "what changed" generally with the entire model line, and specifically what is different with regard to the 3600 and 2600, a model I'm not considering. I was hoping for more of a brief "layman's summary" of the difference between the 3500 and 3600 beyond the additional 2 amplified channels and the addition of bluetooth headphone capability. That first post really isn't constructed that way, and that's okay. I was just hoping for a more targeted answer.

I'm not sure if we're supposed to discuss price here, but I can get the 3500 for around $130 to $230 less (depending on any Black Friday deals) than the 3600. I'm trying to figure out if the extra dough for this year's model is worth it.

One thing that did surprise me is no support yet for HDMI 2.1. Guess it won't really matter for awhile though.
Originally I was going to get a 3500 but "had" to get a 3600 as the 3500 was sold out in the net store where I bought my bundle. Now, I am really pleased that I did as I can build a 5.1.4 configuration instead of settling with 5.1.2. I cannot give you anymore details on this but for me the 3600 was a better option.

Whathifi also has a 3600 review where they briefly discuss the enhancements compared to 3500. https://www.whathifi.com/reviews/denon-avr-x3600h
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post #903 of 1065 Old 11-18-2019, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Madmax67 View Post
Wireless speakers would need to have an RF module of some type like the ones from Rocketfish or Outlaw Audio but those still need a power outlet to connect to. Best to simply bite the bullet and run wire molding and normal speaker wire or flat wire attached with adhesive and speaker post adapters to adapt the flat wire to a normal speaker post conector.
Yeah, running wires for them just ain't gonna' work in the living room. A proper solution would be RF or bluetooth remote speakers that are battery powered. You'd have to replace the batteries now & then, but it would be worth it if you didn't have to deal with all that additional wiring.

If they don't make such an animal I'm surprised, as I would think there would be a big demand for them from folks upgrading from traditional 6 or 8 channel setups to Atmos. I can't be the only guy that hates the idea of running additional wires up the walls and across the ceilings.

Possible in my theater though, since that room is generally very dark with walls painted dark gray. You probably wouldn't notice the Atmos wire-runs in there. But that's currently a 7.2 setup, so I guess I'd have to step up to a 13 channel AVR if I wanted a one-box Atmos solution.

Last edited by archiguy; 11-18-2019 at 07:15 AM.
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post #904 of 1065 Old 11-18-2019, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archiguy View Post
Yeah, I did, but that first post seems to be mostly geared to "what changed" generally with the entire model line, and specifically what is different with regard to the 3600 and 2600, a model I'm not considering. I was hoping for more of a brief "layman's summary" of the difference between the 3500 and 3600 beyond the additional 2 amplified channels and the addition of bluetooth headphone capability. That first post really isn't constructed that way, and that's okay. I was just hoping for a more targeted answer.

I'm not sure if we're supposed to discuss price here, ,<---- You're not.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/2935788-no-price-talk-where-buy-outside-deals-sticky.html
And yet, you can still get your answer. Review post 1 of the 2018 and 2019 threads. The 2019 post tells you what the 2019 models have over the 2018 models.
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post #905 of 1065 Old 11-18-2019, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by archiguy View Post
Yeah, running wires for them just ain't gonna' work in the living room. A proper solution would be RF or bluetooth remote speakers that are battery powered. You'd have to replace the batteries now & then, but it would be worth it if you didn't have to deal with all that additional wiring.
Bluetooth blows for sound quality and latency in the signal is the problem with all wireless speaker options in HT playing dynamic multi channel content. Battery operated anything is a big pain in the arse and a land fill nightmare if not using rechargeables. Least those you can recycle. Hard wired for power is best for flood lights, security cameras, smart doorbells, smart water leak sensors, speakers etc.. I've done both believe me(not 4 speakers though.) Wanting and having are 2 different things.



Quote:
If they don't make such an animal I'm surprised, as I would think there would be a big demand for them from folks upgrading from traditional 6 or 8 channel setups to Atmos. I can't be the only guy that hates the idea of running additional wires up the walls and across the ceilings.
Perfectly sure someone somewhere makes something that's cheap and sucks like that. National Electric code calls for an outlet at every 6 feet or so of one another and there are many users doing the wired for power only Rocketfish or Outlaw Audio RF option for subwoofers and surrounds. Hate aside hardwired speakers front and back are the best option for surround sound.





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Possible in my theater though, since that room is generally very dark with walls painted dark gray. You probably wouldn't notice the Atmos wire-runs in there. But that's currently a 7.2 setup, so I guess I'd have to step up to a 13 channel AVR if I wanted a one-box Atmos solution.
Got it. Good luck to you.
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post #906 of 1065 Old 11-18-2019, 03:43 PM
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Regarding subwoofer setup, I know the large majority of settings are 'what you feel sounds best' but to ensure I have done this all properly a question.

I have a Dayton Audio SUB-1200, on its setup/configuration manual it says "If a LFE mono output is connected, set the crossover point to maximum." Is the sub PreAmp on a S750H an LFE connection? Are they one in the same? Sorry if this is a newbie question. Currently I have the crossover at halfway on the back knob on the sub (around 90Hz). Should I lower it to like 40 OR put it up to max (140Hz)? Similarly, I ran Audyssey with both knobs at halfway - shoudl I redo them with the 'proper' setup? Any insight would be great! Thanks!
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post #907 of 1065 Old 11-19-2019, 12:28 AM
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Has anyone found Black Friday sales for the 3600h, 3500h, or 3400h? Is there a forum here for deals?
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post #908 of 1065 Old 11-19-2019, 12:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thewalrusking View Post
Has anyone found Black Friday sales for the 3600h, 3500h, or 3400h? Is there a forum here for deals?
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...ls-thread.html
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post #909 of 1065 Old 11-19-2019, 12:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by guacamoleparty View Post
Regarding subwoofer setup, I know the large majority of settings are 'what you feel sounds best' but to ensure I have done this all properly a question.

I have a Dayton Audio SUB-1200, on its setup/configuration manual it says "If a LFE mono output is connected, set the crossover point to maximum." Is the sub PreAmp on a S750H an LFE connection? Are they one in the same? Sorry if this is a newbie question. Currently I have the crossover at halfway on the back knob on the sub (around 90Hz). Should I lower it to like 40 OR put it up to max (140Hz)? Similarly, I ran Audyssey with both knobs at halfway - shoudl I redo them with the 'proper' setup? Any insight would be great! Thanks!
The sub frequency knob should be set to its maximum setting of 140Hz to allow the AVR LPF for LFE setting to control the signal. The LPF for LFE should be left at the factory default of 120Hz to allow the full LFE signal (ie. 20Hz - 120Hz) to pass to the sub.

The sub volume knob should be set to about 9 o'clock (rather than the 12 o'clock listed in the Owner's manual).

Now run Audyssey again.

For more Audyssey help, review the FAQ ---> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...d-part-ii.html
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post #910 of 1065 Old 11-19-2019, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The 2018 models (eg. X4500H) would require using either a Bluetooth or RF (eg. Sennheiser) wireless transmitter.

The 2019 models (eg. X3600H) are supposed to receive a future firmware update to allow for Bluetooth wireless transmission (ETA unknown) but until then would require a 3rd party device like the 2018 and older models.

The 2020 models (summer/fall 2020) will likely have the Bluetooth transmission feature from the factory.
Is it expected that the bluetooth transmit would be in addition to playing through the speakers or instead. I saw it was also for hearing aids somewhere so I am hoping for in addition to.

Is latency expected to be an issue compared to the speaker dialog?

This is a major consideration as I am looking for a solution for my father who blares the TV so he can hear it while watching shows with the family / kids.

Thx.
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post #911 of 1065 Old 11-19-2019, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dnadrifter View Post
Is it expected that the bluetooth transmit would be in addition to playing through the speakers or instead. I saw it was also for hearing aids somewhere so I am hoping for in addition to.

Is latency expected to be an issue compared to the speaker dialog?

This is a major consideration as I am looking for a solution for my father who blares the TV so he can hear it while watching shows with the family / kids.

Thx.
In addition as it's a separate feature. No clue about latency.
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post #912 of 1065 Old 11-19-2019, 01:05 PM
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2600H wifi?

Was able to move to wired lan on a switch for entertainment system away from wifi. Personally always found wired to be less problematic, more stable.

With ethernet selected, wifi no long being used, the receiver is still reaching out for an IP from my router via wireless channels. Its like the wifi isn't really Off.

Is that the case? Is there a way to make absolutely sure the wifi isn't in play? Are there settings that turn it on? Wondering about Airplay. I need to check and see if its on. Does Airplay go directly to the device? I think it does on my LG TV.....
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post #913 of 1065 Old 11-19-2019, 01:07 PM
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"This is a major consideration as I am looking for a solution for my father who blares the TV so he can hear it while watching shows"

Time for hearing aids?
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post #914 of 1065 Old 11-19-2019, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnson-from-Arizona View Post
"This is a major consideration as I am looking for a solution for my father who blares the TV so he can hear it while watching shows"

Time for hearing aids?
Its his TV. Blaring is an overstatement. It is louder than we would watch in our home, but after 30 min in a small house, it would be a nice feature.
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post #915 of 1065 Old 11-19-2019, 10:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dnadrifter View Post
Its his TV. Blaring is an overstatement. It is louder than we would watch in our home, but after 30 min in a small house, it would be a nice feature.
Consider TV Ears --> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Wireless-...iABEgLitPD_BwE
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post #916 of 1065 Old 11-19-2019, 10:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Johnson-from-Arizona View Post
2600H wifi?

Was able to move to wired lan on a switch for entertainment system away from wifi. Personally always found wired to be less problematic, more stable.

With ethernet selected, wifi no long being used, the receiver is still reaching out for an IP from my router via wireless channels. Its like the wifi isn't really Off.

Is that the case? Is there a way to make absolutely sure the wifi isn't in play? Are there settings that turn it on? Wondering about Airplay. I need to check and see if its on. Does Airplay go directly to the device? I think it does on my LG TV.....
Yes.

NETWORK - CONNECT - CONNECT USING - WIRED (ETHERNET) …. p. 198 Owner's manual
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post #917 of 1065 Old 11-20-2019, 06:05 AM
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Sorry yes to what?

I've done the switch to ethernet via the setup menu. I've turned AIRPLAY off. The receiver does have ethernet IP/DNS/etc. Connects fine.

But the wireless is still reaching out to the router as well. Both wired and wireless are connected. Seems to me the wireless should be turning off and not requesting anything. If Airplay is on maybe. But its off.
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post #918 of 1065 Old 11-20-2019, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnson-from-Arizona View Post
Sorry yes to what?

I've done the switch to ethernet via the setup menu. I've turned AIRPLAY off. The receiver does have ethernet IP/DNS/etc. Connects fine.

But the wireless is still reaching out to the router as well. Both wired and wireless are connected. Seems to me the wireless should be turning off and not requesting anything. If Airplay is on maybe. But its off.
Is changing the Wifi password a viable option? Either in the Wifi router or in the AVR. After that it should not be able to connect.
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post #919 of 1065 Old 11-20-2019, 06:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Johnson-from-Arizona View Post
Sorry yes to what?

I've done the switch to ethernet via the setup menu. I've turned AIRPLAY off. The receiver does have ethernet IP/DNS/etc. Connects fine.

But the wireless is still reaching out to the router as well. Both wired and wireless are connected. Seems to me the wireless should be turning off and not requesting anything. If Airplay is on maybe. But its off.
Look what is highlighted in your post that I quoted.

Refer to post 5 and do a Network Reset. Then set the Network to a "Wired" connection.
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post #920 of 1065 Old 11-20-2019, 06:33 AM
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After I posted I was doing a Network reset. That cleared the Wireless connection but that shouldn't be necessary.

Something's missing in the firmware in the "Change from wireless to wired" logic. Just changing and not doing a reset did not clear the wifi information nor attempt to reach out to the router.

The "Yes" as an answer to that question doesn't work.
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post #921 of 1065 Old 11-20-2019, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The sub frequency knob should be set to its maximum setting of 140Hz to allow the AVR LPF for LFE setting to control the signal. The LPF for LFE should be left at the factory default of 120Hz to allow the full LFE signal (ie. 20Hz - 120Hz) to pass to the sub.

The sub volume knob should be set to about 9 o'clock (rather than the 12 o'clock listed in the Owner's manual).

Now run Audyssey again.

For more Audyssey help, review the FAQ ---> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...d-part-ii.html
Thank you for the great tips! I re-ran Audyssey but being a little slow I forgot about setting the knob from 12 to 9! The profile is much better than before - is there a discernible difference between running it on a lower (9 oclock) volume during setup? should i rerun it at a lower volume? i guess im just curious why to do it lower! thank you again!
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post #922 of 1065 Old 11-21-2019, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by guacamoleparty View Post
Thank you for the great tips! I re-ran Audyssey but being a little slow I forgot about setting the knob from 12 to 9! The profile is much better than before - is there a discernible difference between running it on a lower (9 oclock) volume during setup? should i rerun it at a lower volume? i guess im just curious why to do it lower! thank you again!
In most cases, setting the knob to 12 o'clock results in a subwoofer setting of -12dB which is maxed out. Ideally it needs to be <-12dB and lowering the knob to 9 o'clock will generally result in a lower setting (eg. -6dB). Most owner's even find this too limiting, so will want to raise it about 3-5dB higher using the Subwoofer Level Adjust setting thus bringing it closer to 0db.
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post #923 of 1065 Old 11-22-2019, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
In most cases, setting the knob to 12 o'clock results in a subwoofer setting of -12dB which is maxed out. Ideally it needs to be <-12dB and lowering the knob to 9 o'clock will generally result in a lower setting (eg. -6dB). Most owner's even find this too limiting, so will want to raise it about 3-5dB higher using the Subwoofer Level Adjust setting thus bringing it closer to 0db.
Hmm, thats good to know! At 12 o'clock I did get -3.5dB through Audyssey. Maybe I'll try it at 9 and see if I like the lower volume better. Thank you!
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post #924 of 1065 Old 11-22-2019, 11:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Hmm, thats good to know! At 12 o'clock I did get -3.5dB through Audyssey. Maybe I'll try it at 9 and see if I like the lower volume better. Thank you!
As I said, the goal is to set the sub knob such that the Subwoofer is NOT equal to -12dB. As yours is -3.5dB, there's no reason to lower it below the current 12 o'clock setting. Although the vast majority of owners will likely want to "raise" the subwoofer level on average 3-5dB after running Audyssey, if your preference is to "lower" it, you can do so by using the Subwoofer Level Adjust setting (eg. -3.5db to say -6dB). There's no reason to run Audyssey again just to lower the sub level.
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post #925 of 1065 Old 11-24-2019, 04:24 AM
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I'm new to AVRs and recently got the 3600. I was wondering is there a way to quick switch to 2 channel from surround without disabling the other speakers.

Appreciate the help guys.
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post #926 of 1065 Old 11-24-2019, 04:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Baline25 View Post
I'm new to AVRs and recently got the 3600. I was wondering is there a way to quick switch to 2 channel from surround without disabling the other speakers.

Appreciate the help guys.
Yes. Select the STEREO surround mode by selecting either MOVIE or MUSIC button (doesn't matter) on the remote.
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post #927 of 1065 Old 11-24-2019, 05:30 AM
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Yes. Select the STEREO surround mode by selecting either MOVIE or MUSIC button (doesn't matter) on the remote.
Thanks, appreciate the help!!
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post #928 of 1065 Old 11-24-2019, 07:46 AM
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Maybe I should find a HEOS thread for this, but it's with a 3600 so figured I'd start here.

The 3600 is setup for a 5.2.4 config, then Zone 2 out is being utilized with an external amp. When using the main 9 speaker zone, I should still be able to play either the same source in Zone 2 or a separate audio source (such as Spotify) right?

For some reason, the app is not allowing this and when I pick something different for Zone 2, it changes the main zone as well.
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post #929 of 1065 Old 11-24-2019, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Maybe I should find a HEOS thread for this, but it's with a 3600 so figured I'd start here.

The 3600 is setup for a 5.2.4 config, then Zone 2 out is being utilized with an external amp. When using the main 9 speaker zone, I should still be able to play either the same source in Zone 2 or a separate audio source (such as Spotify) right?

For some reason, the app is not allowing this and when I pick something different for Zone 2, it changes the main zone as well.
As long as the source audio is 2CH stereo, then yes, it should be able to play to Zone 2; however, the HEOS app considers the AVR as one speaker, so you'll have to get the HEOS source playing to Zone 2 and then reselect the original source playing to the main zone.
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post #930 of 1065 Old 11-24-2019, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
As long as the source audio is 2CH stereo, then yes, it should be able to play to Zone 2; however, the HEOS app considers the AVR as one speaker, so you'll have to get the HEOS source playing to Zone 2 and then reselect the original source playing to the main zone.
Ah, that would explain it. Thanks!
tcramer is offline  
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