"OFFICIAL" 2019 Denon "S-Series" / "X-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ (Posts 1-8) - Page 63 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1861 of 2800 Old 03-15-2020, 12:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JMak00 View Post
After running Audyssey, I can't manually change the level of each speaker. I can change the crossover, but the Level menu is limited to Test Tone Start and Set Defaults. How do I adjust the levels?

I think I want to because Audyssey set my sub at -8.0. And I like to add about 1-2dB to my Center channel.

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You can manually change the level by using the TEST TONE START (global change to all sources) or the OPTION - CHANNEL LEVEL ADJUST (single source). Changes either place become the "active" settings used with the Audyssey EQ.

The settings in Audyssey Setup remain unchanged such that you can more easily restore them if you so choose.
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post #1862 of 2800 Old 03-15-2020, 01:47 AM
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I think there’s a new update up because it was showing on the display that it’s installing.

I have the x1600h so I believe I’m in the right thread.

Question; Does anyone have speaker virtualisation on or off? Is there any added benefit?
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post #1863 of 2800 Old 03-15-2020, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
Not entirely true. On some units (like the x3500) when you have "Video Conversion" set to ON, and others (like my x2600) when you have "Video Mode" set to any setting except Bypass, then there is some video processing happening in order to overlay the info, volume and settings screens.

I have my x2600 Video Mode setting set to Bypass which removes 100% of all video processing and also eliminates any lipsync issues from any connected source. I know you were talking about color temp and whatnot, but I just thought I would clarify that there is still some video processing going on when using Video Conversion or Video Mode.
Ok . I know what you meant, but I also know what I meant . By Picture Processing, I was talking about the "colour temp and whatnot" side of it . This is what is definitely not happening when you turn all that crap off, to reassure the OP.

You say you've removed 100% of all video processing. This is going to be semantics I agree, but I will continue to separate those two terms if only to make this post of mine clearer as I try to step carefully through this.

"Removing all processing" is simply not possible with HDMI, if you are passing a signal through an AVR and onwards to a TV. There is no longer the pure electrical passthrough that happened a decade ago with AVRs. This is a fact. It's a common misconception with HDMI these days that you can "pass through", but you can't! An HDMI port is either decoding or transmitting (it can't do both), so as long as picture and sound are encoded on one cable, the AVR has to decode the stream coming in from the "input" HDMI socket, separate the audio, and then repackage the picture info back up for transmitting to the TV out of the "output" HDMI socket in a completely new stream of data. That's what could very easily be called "video processing"!

If any pic info can't be decoded, then that info is discarded. This is why Denon needed to issue firmware updates to add support for HLG "pass-through" and dolby vision "pass through". I use them in quotes on purpose. Each and every time something new is present in the signal, it needs to be explicitly added to the "decode-repackage-transmit" routines.

"Pass through" is a misnomer, because there is no bypass: only "decode-repackage-transmit" - whether the AVR adds an on-screen menu, or not. So you have some "video processing", whether you like it or not, regardless of what wording the on-screen menu is using. "Bypass" is the traditional term people (including me!) used to mean "don't touch it at all" - but see above. It's definitely going to touch it - a LOT - even with "bypass mode".

What this means is, yes to get the overlay for volume, you must enable "Video Conversion" (and I of course turn i/p scaler off). I consider, and yes this is an assumption, that the AVR won't change the video until and unless I press a button which puts an overlay onto the screen. Each and every pixel will be the same colour at a digital HDMI level that it should be, the vast majority of the time (when there's no overlay). I use it for convenience, and whilst I haven't measured the digital pixel levels coming out in the HDMI stream with no menu showing, with "Video Conversion" on/off - I don't have the equipment to do this - nobody has ever accused Denon of changing any pixel [when there's no menu overlaid and "i/p scaler" is disabled]. If they have, I would like them to back it up with evidence and we could all be informed.

You make an excellent point about lip sync, and for some people with some equipment, the "bypass" mode might do something at a low level that merely turning the I/P scaler off does not do. Regardless, the bottom line is that it's still definitely doing "decode-repackage-transmit" processing to the signal. We trust that all the pixels keep their original colours, unless there is an overlay present at that exact moment.

That screenshot you posted - where the AVR examines the content to decide whether it's a Game, or a Movie. It's looking for a particular flag in the HDMI bitstream which may or may not be set. The AVI InfoFrame data in this case. The source might not even set it! With my x4200 I have no "Bypass" option, I can only set "Auto". Perhaps for me "Game" may do "less" processing*, but I have no evidence for that and see above, it's not set to do any anyway

*other than "decode-repackage-transmit", argh, so difficult to write this post clearly
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post #1864 of 2800 Old 03-15-2020, 07:56 PM
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Denon avr-x2600h display when no input signal

Hello, I am wondering what the output of the Denon receiver is when no input signal is present. Can the receiver be shut off after a timer? I am concerned about image retention and burn-in on my oled tv, with htpc attached.

Thanks
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post #1865 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by georgemcfly View Post
Hello, I am wondering what the output of the Denon receiver is when no input signal is present. Can the receiver be shut off after a timer? I am concerned about image retention and burn-in on my oled tv, with htpc attached.

Thanks
As an FYI, your post was reposted in this thread as it discusses all of the 2019 Denon AVR models as listed in post 1. Review the first few posts for additional general helpful information regarding your Denon X2600H.

1. The word "DENON" is displayed.
2. There is an <Auto Standby> setting (p. 209 Owner's manual) which can be set to shut off the AVR after a set period of time when no signal is received. There is also a <Sleep timer> (p. 129) that can be set to power off the AVR after a set period of time as well.
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post #1866 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
As an FYI, your post was reposted in this thread as it discusses all of the 2019 Denon AVR models as listed in post 1. Review the first few posts for additional general helpful information regarding your Denon X2600H.

1. The word "DENON" is displayed.
2. There is an <Auto Standby> setting (p. 209 Owner's manual) which can be set to shut off the AVR after a set period of time when no signal is received. There is also a <Sleep timer> (p. 129) that can be set to power off the AVR after a set period of time as well.
Thanks so much, I will be buying this receiver today in that case.
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post #1867 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 11:42 AM
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Stereo audio channel issue

Hoping someone can help me out.
I just replaced a Denon 2310CI AVR with a 3600H and I’ve run into a problem that I can’t seem to fix. I’ve already done a factory reset from within the GUI, and ran the setup a second time and I'm still having the same problem.

Here’s a brief description of the equipment I have:
• I currently have a 3.1 setup, with B&W 683s as the left and right channel, an HTM61 as the center and a SVS SB3000 subwoofer.
• All of my inputs are connected to the AVR and I’m using it for audio/video switching.
• I'm using two inputs, #1 for Dish DVR and #5 for a Roku Ultra.
• I have new HDMI 2.1, 8K, HDCP 2.3 cables. When I run the Roku video test, it will negotiate a 4K 60FPS 4:4:4 connection with the TV via the AVR. The Denon and Sony have both had their respective HDMI ports set to enhanced.
• I have a new Sony 950G 4K TV connected to the HDMI output and connected to the TV via the eARC input.
• During the initial setup I hear audio from all of the speakers and I hear the Audyssey setup sound from all the speakers.

If I change the input to my Roku and listen to 2 channel MP3s using my Roku, the AVR displays that it’s getting a stereo signal and the audio comes out over the left, right and subwoofer as expected.


Here’s the problem that I am having:
• Change the AVR to the Roku and start HBO GO, NetFlix or Plex. The problem will happen with all 3 streaming services.
• Maybe 2/3s of the time when I play something, the AVR will display that it’s getting a surround sound audio stream, pressing the info button on the Denon remote will show that it’s getting a 5.1 audio stream and everything works as expected.
• However 1/3 of the time the AVR says that it’s getting a stereo audio stream and I get no audio. Nothing, not even a stereo audio with just the left and right.
• I’ve figured out that if I either pause the Roku stream or even let it play, and then change the input to the Dish DVR then change it back to the Roku it will find and play the correct audio stream.
• I’ve had the same issue with the Dish DVR where I was watching NBC and getting a 5.1 audio stream, then watched a recorded show, then went back to live TV and ran into the stereo problem. Switching to the Roku input then back to the Dish input fixed the issue.

Anyone know why the Denon 3600h is not correctly negotiating and playing the 5.1 surround audio stream, and also when that happens why there’s no audio when it is in stereo mode even though my two channel MP3s play in stereo like they should.
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post #1868 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorladonAVS View Post
Hoping someone can help me out.
I just replaced a Denon 2310CI AVR with a 3600H and I’ve run into a problem that I can’t seem to fix. I’ve already done a factory reset from within the GUI, and ran the setup a second time and I'm still having the same problem.

Here’s a brief description of the equipment I have:
• I currently have a 3.1 setup, with B&W 683s as the left and right channel, an HTM61 as the center and a SVS SB3000 subwoofer.
• All of my inputs are connected to the AVR and I’m using it for audio/video switching.
• I'm using two inputs, #1 for Dish DVR and #5 for a Roku Ultra.
• I have new HDMI 2.1, 8K, HDCP 2.3 cables. When I run the Roku video test, it will negotiate a 4K 60FPS 4:4:4 connection with the TV via the AVR. The Denon and Sony have both had their respective HDMI ports set to enhanced.
• I have a new Sony 950G 4K TV connected to the HDMI output and connected to the TV via the eARC input.
• During the initial setup I hear audio from all of the speakers and I hear the Audyssey setup sound from all the speakers.

If I change the input to my Roku and listen to 2 channel MP3s using my Roku, the AVR displays that it’s getting a stereo signal and the audio comes out over the left, right and subwoofer as expected.


Here’s the problem that I am having:
• Change the AVR to the Roku and start HBO GO, NetFlix or Plex. The problem will happen with all 3 streaming services.
• Maybe 2/3s of the time when I play something, the AVR will display that it’s getting a surround sound audio stream, pressing the info button on the Denon remote will show that it’s getting a 5.1 audio stream and everything works as expected.
• However 1/3 of the time the AVR says that it’s getting a stereo audio stream and I get no audio. Nothing, not even a stereo audio with just the left and right.
• I’ve figured out that if I either pause the Roku stream or even let it play, and then change the input to the Dish DVR then change it back to the Roku it will find and play the correct audio stream.
• I’ve had the same issue with the Dish DVR where I was watching NBC and getting a 5.1 audio stream, then watched a recorded show, then went back to live TV and ran into the stereo problem. Switching to the Roku input then back to the Dish input fixed the issue.

Anyone know why the Denon 3600h is not correctly negotiating and playing the 5.1 surround audio stream, and also when that happens why there’s no audio when it is in stereo mode even though my two channel MP3s play in stereo like they should.
The best way to mitigate HDMI handshake issues is to power on the components in a specific order: TV, pause 5 seconds, AVR, pause 5 seconds, source.

In some instances, as you've experienced, switching from one source to another, resolves the issue.
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post #1869 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The best way to mitigate HDMI handshake issues is to power on the components in a specific order: TV, pause 5 seconds, AVR, pause 5 seconds, source.

In some instances, as you've experienced, switching from one source to another, resolves the issue.
This happened one time with my Dish DVR. It was working watching live TV, then watching a recorded show, then when I went back to live TV the audio went to stereo and there was no sound from the speakers. I didn't power anything on or off or change inputs during that time.

I know it's not 100% applicable, but I'm using the same Roku and Dish DVR as I had with the old Denon 2310CI AVR. I was also having the same audio issue with the new 3600 with some older HDMI cables, and I had hoped that then newer ones with up to date specs would fix the issue but it didn't.

I forgot to mention that the TV, AVR and Roku have the latest firmware available.
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post #1870 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The best way to mitigate HDMI handshake issues is to power on the components in a specific order: TV, pause 5 seconds, AVR, pause 5 seconds, source.

In some instances, as you've experienced, switching from one source to another, resolves the issue.
This happened one time with my Dish DVR. It was working watching live TV, then watching a recorded show, then when I went back to live TV the audio went to stereo and there was no sound from the speakers. I didn't power anything on or off or change inputs during that time.

I know it's not 100% applicable, but I'm using the same Roku and Dish DVR as I had with the old Denon 2310CI AVR. I was also having the same audio issue with the new 3600 with some older HDMI cables, and I had hoped that then newer ones with up to date specs would fix the issue but it didn't.

I forgot to mention that the TV, AVR and Roku have the latest firmware available.
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post #1871 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CorladonAVS View Post
This happened one time with my Dish DVR. It was working watching live TV, then watching a recorded show, then when I went back to live TV the audio went to stereo and there was no sound from the speakers. I didn't power anything on or off or change inputs during that time.

I know it's not 100% applicable, but I'm using the same Roku and Dish DVR as I had with the old Denon 2310CI AVR. I was also having the same audio issue with the new 3600 with some older HDMI cables, and I had hoped that then newer ones with up to date specs would fix the issue but it didn't.

I forgot to mention that the TV, AVR and Roku have the latest firmware available.
What cables exactly did you buy? Are they certified cables with the holographic HDMI Certification label like this.......
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post #1872 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 03:07 PM
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What cables exactly did you buy? Are they certified cables with the holographic HDMI Certification label like this.......
I know I sort of overpaid for them, $20 vs $5, but I thought it might be helpful some time in the future to have an HDCP 2.3 cable since the AVR and TV are both HDCP 2.3.

6.5ft 8K HDMI 2.1 Ultra High Speed 48Gbps Cable Compatible with Apple TV Roku Netflix Playstation Xbox One X Samsung Sony LG
by Zeskit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  • Cable length: 2 meters / 6.6 feet
  • 48Gbps bandwidth for uncompressed HDMI 2.1 features
  • 8K60, 4K120 & up to 10K resolution, Dynamic HDR, eARC, ALLM, QFT, QMS, VRR, HDR, HDCP 2.2&2.3, DTS:X, Dolby Atmos, Dolby Vision
  • Certified connectors, thiner and softer cord for easier installation. Exceeds the requirements of latest international EMI standards to significantly reduce interference with wireless services such as Wi-Fi.
  • Backward compatible with earlier versions of HDMI and can be used with existing HDMI devices.

Last edited by CorladonAVS; 03-16-2020 at 03:08 PM. Reason: adding brief description of cable.
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post #1873 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CorladonAVS View Post
I know I sort of overpaid for them, $20 vs $5, but I thought it might be helpful some time in the future to have an HDCP 2.3 cable since the AVR and TV are both HDCP 2.3.

6.5ft 8K HDMI 2.1 Ultra High Speed 48Gbps Cable Compatible with Apple TV Roku Netflix Playstation Xbox One X Samsung Sony LG
by Zeskit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  • Cable length: 2 meters / 6.6 feet
  • 48Gbps bandwidth for uncompressed HDMI 2.1 features
  • 8K60, 4K120 & up to 10K resolution, Dynamic HDR, eARC, ALLM, QFT, QMS, VRR, HDR, HDCP 2.2&2.3, DTS:X, Dolby Atmos, Dolby Vision
  • Certified connectors, thiner and softer cord for easier installation. Exceeds the requirements of latest international EMI standards to significantly reduce interference with wireless services such as Wi-Fi.
  • Backward compatible with earlier versions of HDMI and can be used with existing HDMI devices.
So not certified.

Either of these would be my choice and is worth a try to fix your issue (I use the ultra slim series with 100% perfection):

Ultra Slim https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Standard https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #1874 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 03:20 PM
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So not certified.

Either of these would be my choice and is worth a try to fix your issue (I use the ultra slim series with 100% perfection):

Ultra Slim https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Standard https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Per the description of those cables, neither of them support eARC. Not sure if that's something I will use in the future, but since my TV and the AVR support eARC it seems like I'd want cables that support it as well.

I'm willing to try a couple of them to see if the help. I tend to keep my audio and video gear for a while I can't imaging having to switch inputs and back again every other time I watch something.
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post #1875 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CorladonAVS View Post
Per the description of those cables, neither of them support eARC. Not sure if that's something I will use in the future, but since my TV and the AVR support eARC it seems like I'd want cables that support it as well.

I'm willing to try a couple of them to see if the help. I tend to keep my audio and video gear for a while I can't imaging having to switch inputs and back again every other time I watch something.
They both support eARC. I'm using eARC as I type this between my X2600 and LG C9.
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post #1876 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 03:36 PM
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They both support eARC. I'm using eARC as I type this between my X2600 and LG C9.
Ok, I just ordered 3 of the 6 foot cables and they will be here Friday. Thanks, really hope this fixes it.
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post #1877 of 2800 Old 03-16-2020, 03:42 PM
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Ok, I just ordered 3 of the 6 foot cables and they will be here Friday. Thanks, really hope this fixes it.
I'm confident they will...... it really is amazing the issues that certified cables can fix.

Slim or standard? Hopefully you'll update this thread with the good news!
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post #1878 of 2800 Old 03-17-2020, 08:55 AM
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I'm confident they will...... it really is amazing the issues that certified cables can fix.

Slim or standard? Hopefully you'll update this thread with the good news!
I ordered the standard ones. Once I get them I'll give them a day or so and report back.
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post #1879 of 2800 Old 03-17-2020, 10:47 AM
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by trim are you referring to the channel level in the AVR software setting... or the physical knob on the subwoofer?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
To ensure the sub pre-out signal is strong enough to power on the "auto on" sub, the trim level should be set between -3dB to 0dB.

So for example, you run Audyssey with the sub set to roughly 10 o'clock and the sub gets set to about -6dB using Audyssey Setup. Most owners find the result a bit weak and therefore using Manual Setup will want to raise the level about +3-5dB. Simply ensure the final setting is between -3dB and 0dB.

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post #1880 of 2800 Old 03-17-2020, 10:53 AM
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by trim are you referring to the channel level in the AVR software setting... or the physical knob on the subwoofer?
The AVR's subwoofer channel level setting.

NOT the sub's volume control.
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post #1881 of 2800 Old 03-17-2020, 11:32 AM
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headphones or hearing aids transmitter with denon x3600h

Hi,
I want to use headphones or my hearing aids for volume while speakers are on for rest of family. I understand cannot use headphone jack. I run 5.1 and zone 2 speaker out to some outdoor speakers. everything in is hdmi (cable box, firestick most common used).
1. I have a tv transmitter for the hearing aids, it has an option for rcs. I also have a wireless headphone that connects via rca. So I'm assuming either of these can go into zone 2 preout and that would be only option especially if firestick is often used. Right?

2.If I don't get enough volume out of either the hearing aid controls or headphone built in controls, What kind of amp in between preout and the transmitter should I use?

3.Will the preout zone 2 put out a stereo signal while the hdmi is putting out DD surround? If not what do I do Or during this scenario Do I change the general output to Direct? Is it easily done on the remote at the bottom , just pushing the direct button?

Thanks
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post #1882 of 2800 Old 03-17-2020, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JediFonger View Post
by trim are you referring to the channel level in the AVR software setting... or the physical knob on the subwoofer?
The former, as noted in my example.
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post #1883 of 2800 Old 03-17-2020, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jal11 View Post
Hi,
I want to use headphones or my hearing aids for volume while speakers are on for rest of family. I understand cannot use headphone jack. I run 5.1 and zone 2 speaker out to some outdoor speakers. everything in is hdmi (cable box, firestick most common used).
1. I have a tv transmitter for the hearing aids, it has an option for rcs. I also have a wireless headphone that connects via rca. So I'm assuming either of these can go into zone 2 preout and that would be only option especially if firestick is often used. Right?

2.If I don't get enough volume out of either the hearing aid controls or headphone built in controls, What kind of amp in between preout and the transmitter should I use?

3.Will the preout zone 2 put out a stereo signal while the hdmi is putting out DD surround? If not what do I do Or during this scenario Do I change the general output to Direct? Is it easily done on the remote at the bottom , just pushing the direct button?

Thanks
1. Yes, unless the hearing aids are Bluetooth capable then that would be another option.

https://denon.custhelp.com/app/answe...th-headphones]

2. You should get enough volume.
3. Yes, as long as "SOURCE" is selected for Zone 2 using the source knob on the AVR. Otherwise, you can also use "ALL ZONE STEREO" which would downmix the main zone to stereo as well but would still pass the HDMI audio to Zone 2.
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post #1884 of 2800 Old 03-17-2020, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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SiriusXM upgrade on March 31, 2020

SiriusXM is putting out an upgrade to their streaming service on March 31, 2020. The HEOS update that was released last week includes an update to allow for this new enhancement.
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post #1885 of 2800 Old 03-17-2020, 12:34 PM
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Can I use the Cast To functionality in Windows 10 to cast .mkv files from my pc to the AVR to be played back on the TV? The AVR is listed as a Cast To device when I right-click a video file; however, when I select the AVR, I get an error indicating that the media selected is not supported by the device. Media format on the PC is a .mkv format.
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post #1886 of 2800 Old 03-17-2020, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JMak00 View Post
Can I use the Cast To functionality in Windows 10 to cast .mkv files from my pc to the AVR to be played back on the TV? The AVR is listed as a Cast To device when I right-click a video file; however, when I select the AVR, I get an error indicating that the media selected is not supported by the device. Media format on the PC is a .mkv format.
Nope. .mkv files are not supported by the AVR.
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post #1887 of 2800 Old 03-17-2020, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. Yes, unless the hearing aids are Bluetooth capable then that would be another option.

https://denon.custhelp.com/app/answe...th-headphones]

2. You should get enough volume.
3. Yes, as long as "SOURCE" is selected for Zone 2 using the source knob on the AVR. Otherwise, you can also use "ALL ZONE STEREO" which would downmix the main zone to stereo as well but would still pass the HDMI audio to Zone 2.
"Yes, as long as "SOURCE" is selected for Zone 2 using the source knob on the AVR. Otherwise, you can also use "ALL ZONE STEREO" which would downmix the main zone to stereo as well but would still pass the HDMI audio to Zone 2."

1.?, say source (hdmi) is firestick(media player) or Directv (cbl/sat) and is playing DD surr. How do I add the Zone 2 and if it doesn't work (ie stereo for zone 2 preout and 5.1 for main) how do I change to "all Zone Stereo"?

2. As a separate question.......... will the normal zone 2 (connected by speakerwire) at same time still output whatever input there is? or not if input is hdmi? (in otherwords , has to have rca coming from cable box to avr inaddition to hdmi?

Last edited by jal11; 03-17-2020 at 03:07 PM.
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post #1888 of 2800 Old 03-18-2020, 01:51 AM
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Hello All,

I need some advice on picking a replacement for my dying 4311CI.

Below is my home theater setup:

Bowers and Wilkins (B&W) CDM7NT Tower and Center Speakers

2 Front, 1 Center, 2 Rear

*Nominal impedance: 8ohms (a minimum of 4.6ohms)
*Sensitivity: 90dB/2.83V/1m
*Crossover frequency: 150Hz, 4000Hz
*Power handling (conformity amplifier output): 50W-150W (8-ohm)

2 - Definitive Technology SR-9040 10” Bipolar Surround Speaker

*frequency response 45-30,000 Hz
*sensitivity 90 dB
*8-ohm impedance
*handles up to 200 watts

1 - HSU Research ULS15 Subwoofer

The receiver is hooked up to a JVC RS40U projector that I plan to replace at a future time to a 4K projector.

Thev4311CI has lately developed a problem (goes into protection mode after about 30 minutes of play time - red led blinking twice per second)

jdsmoothie adviced about replacement models and I felt X4500H fits the bill, however upon reading up I got curious about value proposition of X3600H given it can do "height virtualization when you use 5.1/7.1 setups without height" - which matches my 7.1 setup.

Now, I have gone through this super awesome comparison summary by dfa973:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...l#post58285290

I was hopeful this group can help me decided if I can get by with X3600H given my specific speaker setup or should I stay course to keeping the X4500H I just ordered. I don't care so much about HDCP 2.3 Or Bluetooth connectivity.

Would truly appreciate your help and suggestions!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #1889 of 2800 Old 03-18-2020, 02:10 AM
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@ywallet ....Pretty close to my situation about a year ago. Replaced my 4311CI with a X4400H (2017 model year) I found new for about half price on Amazon. Running 7.4.4 in the main room, or 13.4 two zones all channels stereo when friends are over shooting pool. Loved the 4311, but it is like a new world with the 4400. Where did you buy it from? Can you try it out for a bit and then make a decision?
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post #1890 of 2800 Old 03-18-2020, 06:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ywallet View Post
Thev4311CI has lately developed a problem (goes into protection mode after about 30 minutes of play time - red led blinking twice per second)

jdsmoothie adviced about replacement models and I felt X4500H fits the bill, however upon reading up I got curious about value proposition of X3600H given it can do "height virtualization when you use 5.1/7.1 setups without height" - which matches my 7.1 setup.
Regarding the 4311CI, you'll also want to check to make sure there are no loose wires from one speaker post touching another speaker post either at the AVR back panel or the speaker posts themselves.

If no issue there, and you really want the Dolby Atmos Height Virtualization feature (which some members have posted finding quite realistic), your only option is a 2019 model (eg. X3600H), otherwise, you can wait for the new HDMI 2.1 X4700H which should be released in September and should also include this feature.
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Last edited by jdsmoothie; 03-18-2020 at 09:44 AM.
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