Dedicated ARC Genesis thread - Page 62 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1831 of 2074 Old 05-16-2020, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by blSwagger View Post
I'm confused why the Level Settings in the ARC Genesis app are different than the profile once uploaded to the receiver. For example, at the completion of calibration, the level settings say +6db for the subwoofer, and yet after I uploaded the profile to my MRX 1120, the subwoofer level was +9db. Why the difference?
I could be wrong, but I believe this is because it adds the room gain? I think this was discussed a few pages back, or in a different but related thread recently...
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post #1832 of 2074 Old 05-16-2020, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by madrac View Post
No worries, Legairre.


Would you happen to have a copy of the beta you updated with? Although unlikely, perhaps the copy I have may have an error in it?
Sure I always upload the.exe to my google drive just in case a new version if buggy and I need to roll back. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ay...a_uFZXv34Ah2AE

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post #1833 of 2074 Old 05-16-2020, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by blSwagger View Post
Looks like there's a 100% chance that I'm going to order a UMIK-1 and miniDSP 2x4 HD this weekend... I have a *major* dip between 20hz and 100hz. Hopefully it's a phase issue (or something that can be corrected in REW) and not placement.
...
It is nice to have a symmetric setup for your subwoofer, but I think they are cancelling each other or be in one of the mode of your room. The test would be to turn one of them off and retake measure. If that work then redo your setting with something like move the right subwoofer moved to right wall.

https://www.harman.com/documents/multsubs_0.pdf
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post #1834 of 2074 Old 05-16-2020, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by blSwagger View Post
Looks like there's a 100% chance that I'm going to order a UMIK-1 and miniDSP 2x4 HD this weekend... I have a *major* dip between 20hz and 100hz. Hopefully it's a phase issue (or something that can be corrected in REW) and not placement.

:
That could easily be a phase issue or distance/delay problem. Try flipping the phase on the subs one by one and adjusting the distance and keep remesaruning in REW to see if it makes a difference. I just setup my new DIY sub and miniDSP. What a difference in setup options and adjustment flexibility, I as able to EQ the sub very precisely and only used ARC to smooth over it. Never heard bass soo good in my room before. Well worth the investment go for it.
and remember sub distance isn't real distance, its delay which greately affects sub/main integration.
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post #1835 of 2074 Old 05-16-2020, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
Sure I always upload the.exe to my google drive just in case a new version if buggy and I need to roll back. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ay...a_uFZXv34Ah2AE

Thanks, Legairre. That link took me to the Genesis Beta (I've downloaded that directly from Anthem).

Would you happen to have the beta firmware also? I believe its 16098.

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post #1836 of 2074 Old 05-16-2020, 04:38 PM
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Quick question, when running dual subs with Arc, what combined sub SPL level are you setting the subs to prior to running Arc that way Arc doesnt try to flatten it so much? Previously I had set both to 75db but curious what everyone else likes to set them to before calibration.
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post #1837 of 2074 Old 05-16-2020, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by madrac View Post
Thanks, Legairre. That link took me to the Genesis Beta (I've downloaded that directly from Anthem).

Would you happen to have the beta firmware also? I believe its 16098.
Oh I'm sorry I thought you meant the Genesis beta. I never loaded the beta firmware. I'm still on the current production release 1.4.095 of the firmware. I'm running the beta Genesis 1.2.2.0 with the production firmware.

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post #1838 of 2074 Old 05-16-2020, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by flyinrazrback View Post
Quick question, when running dual subs with Arc, what combined sub SPL level are you setting the subs to prior to running Arc that way Arc doesnt try to flatten it so much? Previously I had set both to 75db but curious what everyone else likes to set them to before calibration.
I gain match (don't level match) each of my subs separately to 70dB then the combined sub dB is about 75B.
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post #1839 of 2074 Old 05-16-2020, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinrazrback View Post
Quick question, when running dual subs with Arc, what combined sub SPL level are you setting the subs to prior to running Arc that way Arc doesnt try to flatten it so much? Previously I had set both to 75db but curious what everyone else likes to set them to before calibration.
Generally you want to setup a house curve after/during EQ-ing so its not flat and it gives you that extra bit of satisfying bass response we all crave. I normally start the curve at around 70-80 hz and let it rise a about 5-7 db toward 20hz this works well and really pleasing to my ears and shake the sofa just right.
If you are doing it in ARC that's the Deep Bass Boost.

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post #1840 of 2074 Old 05-17-2020, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
Oh I'm sorry I thought you meant the Genesis beta. I never loaded the beta firmware. I'm still on the current production release 1.4.095 of the firmware. I'm running the beta Genesis 1.2.2.0 with the production firmware.

No worries. I was just looking for an alternate source to the beta FW in case the one posted elsewhere (owners thread, I recall) was somehow corrupted. I've also emailed Anthem to see if I can get a copy of the latest firmware.



Test tones work for me with 1.4.095 -- I did reinstall this firmware previously to check. I don't recall if it was profile/input dependent. So, appears the test tones is broken in current beta.

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post #1841 of 2074 Old 05-17-2020, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinrazrback View Post
Quick question, when running dual subs with Arc, what combined sub SPL level are you setting the subs to prior to running Arc that way Arc doesnt try to flatten it so much? Previously I had set both to 75db but curious what everyone else likes to set them to before calibration.
As high as I can until ARC complains they are too high. I don't do the 75dB thing. I did at first, but just seem to get better results maxing them out. Don't ask me why. And don't quote me on this, but if I remember correctly, the last time I did it, I think the combined SPL was like 80-81dB when I started ARC. Usually results in ARC setting +2 or +3 in the levels. Then I throw in an extra 3dB on the subs' gain knobs. All personal preference, but it's what works for me.

If you want 75dB out of both, set them individually for around 72dB for starters.

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post #1842 of 2074 Old 05-17-2020, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
I ran an ARC calibration yesterday with the latest beta. Turned out great, no drama, but I noticed that the target level for the system was about 102 dB instead of 75 (which I'm used to). All the channel levels were set between -2 and +2, so no insane trim differences or caps. After I loaded it, I checked trim levels using a SPL meter and 75 dB was about -2 on the volume dial, so actually not too bad. The offset in the trim level was set to -12 for some reason, but changing it back to 0 didn't change anything in regards to the volume level or where the trims were.

Has anyone else seen ARC come back with a system target that high?
I haven't had that problem. Rat shack meter has me at 73 db in test tones with trims 1-2 dB around the zero gain. Offset zero. I would rerun the cal.
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post #1843 of 2074 Old 05-17-2020, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by tranle View Post
It is nice to have a symmetric setup for your subwoofer, but I think they are cancelling each other or be in one of the mode of your room. The test would be to turn one of them off and retake measure. If that work then redo your setting with something like move the right subwoofer moved to right wall.

https://www.harman.com/documents/multsubs_0.pdf

The right wall is in the middle of my kitchen.... I have a 7000+ cubic foot open floor plan with my living room and kitchen sharing a ~40' wall.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
That could easily be a phase issue or distance/delay problem. Try flipping the phase on the subs one by one and adjusting the distance and keep remesaruning in REW to see if it makes a difference. I just setup my new DIY sub and miniDSP. What a difference in setup options and adjustment flexibility, I as able to EQ the sub very precisely and only used ARC to smooth over it. Never heard bass soo good in my room before. Well worth the investment go for it.
and remember sub distance isn't real distance, its delay which greately affects sub/main integration.

I am going to order a UMIK-1 and miniDSP 2x4HD right after posting this...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
Generally you want to setup a house curve after/during EQ-ing so its not flat and it gives you that extra bit of satisfying bass response we all crave. I normally start the curve at around 70-80 hz and let it rise a about 5-7 db toward 20hz this works well and really pleasing to my ears and shake the sofa just right.
If you are doing it in ARC that's the Deep Bass Boost.

I haven't seen the Deep Bass Boost setting. I actually haven't been able to find where you can adjust the frequency at which room correction stops (5khz default).

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post #1844 of 2074 Old 05-17-2020, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by blSwagger View Post
Looks like there's a 100% chance that I'm going to order a UMIK-1 and miniDSP 2x4 HD this weekend... I have a *major* dip between 20hz and 100hz. Hopefully it's a phase issue (or something that can be corrected in REW) and not placement.



I'm confused why the Level Settings in the ARC Genesis app are different than the profile once uploaded to the receiver. For example, at the completion of calibration, the level settings say +6db for the subwoofer, and yet after I uploaded the profile to my MRX 1120, the subwoofer level was +9db. Why the difference?



The other oddity is that if I turned the volume up on my F18s past 12 o'clock during calibration, I got an error message that the subs were too loud and I had to turn them down to continue... and yet it boosted the subwoofer by 6 or 9db.
The dip could be caused by the room as well. Have you tried to put the subs in the corner yet?
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post #1845 of 2074 Old 05-17-2020, 09:33 AM
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The dip could be caused by the room as well. Have you tried to put the subs in the corner yet?

I'm going to see how much I can improve the bass response using REW. I am also in the process of ordering close to $2k worth of acoustic treatments including 4" thick panels, which I imagine might effect the frequency response in the room.

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post #1846 of 2074 Old 05-17-2020, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macming View Post
The dip could be caused by the room as well. Have you tried to put the subs in the corner yet?

I'm going to see how much I can improve the bass response using REW. I am also in the process of ordering close to $2k worth of acoustic treatments including 4" thick panels, which I imagine might effect the frequency response in the room.
Good call on treatments. I’d start with corner traps first. If you can, look into your room modes and order some membrane based bass traps. I imagine they’ll be more effective than an EQ based solution.

See my measurements above. I have a fair bit of treatments in my room and it didn’t require as much EQ 😉
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post #1847 of 2074 Old 05-17-2020, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by blSwagger View Post
The right wall is in the middle of my kitchen.... I have a 7000+ cubic foot open floor plan with my living room and kitchen sharing a ~40' wall.





I am going to order a UMIK-1 and miniDSP 2x4HD right after posting this...





I haven't seen the Deep Bass Boost setting. I actually haven't been able to find where you can adjust the frequency at which room correction stops (5khz default).
Deep bass boost is on the adjustment page right up the top left when you adjust after measuring but you have to be in ADVANCED mode. Search the manual for it if you can't see it.
Room treatment is great however it is highly unlikely that those panels will do much if anything for those frequencies where you have the dip, those low frequencies are the hardest to treat and require special bass traps which are very expensive. You are much better off properly measuring and EQ-ing it out. What happens when you only have one sub playing, what happens to the dip??

Corners should be boosting bass not creating a dip. Try with one sub and report back. You could save yourself a load of cash and trouble getting the basics right first.

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post #1848 of 2074 Old 05-18-2020, 08:19 AM
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Alright, deleted the last message as I figured it out, well sort of.

Turned the gain on my sub amplifier way down low, had to keep increasing it 2 or 3db until ARC would finally take a reading. It set the subs to +10trim.

i then remeasured just the sub and fronts after jacking the sub amp gain up about 7 db.

However, when it reran, it offered the exact same +10 db trim? That can't be right?
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post #1849 of 2074 Old 05-18-2020, 08:38 AM
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Why are you getting noise all the way up to 10k on your subwoofer? Did you do a quick measure of the subwoofer from the listening position?

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post #1850 of 2074 Old 05-18-2020, 08:39 AM
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Alright, deleted the last message as I figured it out, well sort of.

Turned the gain on my sub amplifier way down low, had to keep increasing it 2 or 3db until ARC would finally take a reading. It set the subs to +10trim.

i then remeasured just the sub and fronts after jacking the sub amp gain up about 7 db.

However, when it reran, it offered the exact same +10 db trim? That can't be right?
I found ARC can be very inconsistent. The best sub level to measure (on the sub) is at +4 which the manufacturers usually recommend as well, this worked well for me and for others as well from the looks of things. If you go just below the threshold where ARC doesn't complain it won't be accurate and consistent.

This is the very reason why you want to use REW to set the sub level right after ARC.

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post #1851 of 2074 Old 05-20-2020, 04:37 AM
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Hi there,
If anyone wants a great way to dial in a house curve this is a method I use and it works really well and is easy to do.

Our hearing isn't as good with those low frequencies especially as we drop from reference level and these are what you want to boost via the curve.
For example if you play back an 80htz (or where your mains are corssed over at) tone and a 30htz tone at the same vol setting you normally use to watch a movie you shoud notice that the 30htz tone won't be as loud as the 80htz tone at the same volume level.

So how do you get them the same

You'll need an spl metre and some test tones which can be found online.

These are the ones I use

http://onlinetonegenerator.com/subwoofer.html

The tones I use are 80htz and 30htz

So for example I listen at -10 as my room is a dedicated treated room.
So playing back the 80htz tone at -10 gives me a readout on the SPL of 85db
Playing back the 30htz tone gave me a readout of 80db so that 30htz tone is 5db lower at the level I listen at.
Once you have the readouts play back the 30htz tone and using the level on the remote adjust the sub trim until you have the same readout you had on the spl at 80htz

In my case I need to boost the sub trim by 4db to level match both readouts. Make sure you back the sub trim back to 0.

Then to dial it in via ARC just add the number you needed to add to the sub trim to the deep bass boost.
So in my bass I need a 4db bass boost

Then take the two measurements again and fingers crossed they should be the same. If not just add or decrease the deepbass until they are or as close as you can get.

Once your done just let ARC either auto detect where it wants to roll the sub off or if you know the spec off you sub dial it in. Personally I like a sharp rolloff and leave the room gain where ARC sets it which for me is 3db

Then try some scenes and the bass should sound natural and even at the vol you listen at you should still have some nice chest slam in that 30-50 range that you would have missed before or would have had less of an impact.
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post #1852 of 2074 Old 05-20-2020, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by elvis1608 View Post
Hi there,
If anyone wants a great way to dial in a house curve this is a method I use and it works really well and is easy to do.

Our hearing isn't as good with those low frequencies especially as we drop from reference level and these are what you want to boost via the curve.
For example if you play back an 80htz (or where your mains are corssed over at) tone and a 30htz tone at the same vol setting you normally use to watch a movie you shoud notice that the 30htz tone won't be as loud as the 80htz tone at the same volume level.

So how do you get them the same

You'll need an spl metre and some test tones which can be found online.

These are the ones I use

http://onlinetonegenerator.com/subwoofer.html

The tones I use are 80htz and 30htz

So for example I listen at -10 as my room is a dedicated treated room.
So playing back the 80htz tone at -10 gives me a readout on the SPL of 85db
Playing back the 30htz tone gave me a readout of 80db so that 30htz tone is 5db lower at the level I listen at.
Once you have the readouts play back the 30htz tone and using the level on the remote adjust the sub trim until you have the same readout you had on the spl at 80htz

In my case I need to boost the sub trim by 4db to level match both readouts. Make sure you back the sub trim back to 0.

Then to dial it in via ARC just add the number you needed to add to the sub trim to the deep bass boost.
So in my bass I need a 4db bass boost

Then take the two measurements again and fingers crossed they should be the same. If not just add or decrease the deepbass until they are or as close as you can get.

Once your done just let ARC either auto detect where it wants to roll the sub off or if you know the spec off you sub dial it in. Personally I like a sharp rolloff and leave the room gain where ARC sets it which for me is 3db

Then try some scenes and the bass should sound natural and even at the vol you listen at you should still have some nice chest slam in that 30-50 range that you would have missed before or would have had less of an impact.
Good advice, however you don't need any SPL meter to be purchased just use free REW and the Anthem mic bang that's it very simple.

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post #1853 of 2074 Old 05-20-2020, 08:55 AM
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Did a few searches through this thread, but since AVS' software doesn't like short search terms I may have missed any relevant posts (ie, I didn't fine any):

Has anyone used Genesis with one of th Paradigm PW Amp or PW Link systems? The Anthem web site implies it should work, but I'm guessing there are still real world limitations (ie, like the hard coded subwoofer crossover in the PW AMP).


My current setup.
Recommended podcasts: The Next Picture Show, the /filmcast, AV Rant.
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post #1854 of 2074 Old 05-21-2020, 08:44 AM
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I’m going to add a miniDSP balanced between my Anthem AVM60 and two SVS SB16 Ultra’s. For those of you using SVS subs, what jumper settings are you using for input sensitivity and output voltage?
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post #1855 of 2074 Old 05-21-2020, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post
I’m going to add a miniDSP balanced between my Anthem AVM60 and two SVS SB16 Ultra’s. For those of you using SVS subs, what jumper settings are you using for input sensitivity and output voltage?
I own a miniDSP, an Anthem AVM 60 and two SVS SB16Ultra's.

I may seem dumb as mud to you, but what is a "jumper setting" ?

Chris

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post #1856 of 2074 Old 05-21-2020, 05:01 PM
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https://www.minidsp.com/products/min...p-balanced-2x4

Under specification:

Input / Output Max Levels IN: 4Vrms / 1.8Vrms (jumper–selectable)
OUT: 2Vrms / 4Vrms (jumper-selectable)

https://www.minidsp.com/images/docum...r%20Manual.pdf

Page 26 of the User manual:

4.3.2 Input sensitivity and output voltage
The miniDSP Balanced 2x4 and Balanced Kit board have onboard jumpers to select their input sensitivity and output voltage. (For the Balanced 2x4, the enclosure will need to be opened to access the jumpers.)

Input sensitivity jumpers
Set the jumpers according to the maximum input signal voltage. Note that the maximum input signal level applies to both balanced and unbalanced inputs.
Output voltage jumpers
Leave the jumpers closed for a maximum 2.0 V RMS output voltage. Open the jumpers for a maximum 4.0 V RMS output voltage. (To leave the jumpers open, we recommend leaving the jumpers in place, but position them so that only one terminal is connected, as shown in the photograph below.)
The input sensitivity and output voltage jumpers can help you optimize the gain structure of your system. For more information on gain structure, see the app note Gain Structure 101.


https://www.anthemav.com/products-cu...-60/page=specs

AVM 60 Specifications
PREAMPLIFIER (MEASURED AT XLR OUTPUT)
Maximum Output (<0.1% THD) 8.4 Vrms, subwoofer channel 9.9 Vrms
Frequency Response (2 Vrms output) 10 Hz — 35 kHz (+0, -0.25 dB)
Frequency Response, Analog-Direct (2 Vrms output) 10 Hz — 80 kHz (+0, -0.25 dB)
THD+N (2 Vrms output) -95 dB
S/N Ratio (2 Vrms output, IEC-A filter) 110 dB
XLR Configuration Pin 1: Ground, Pin 2: Positive, Pin 3: Negative


I couldn’t find anything for the SVS subs.
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post #1857 of 2074 Old 05-22-2020, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
Did a few searches through this thread, but since AVS' software doesn't like short search terms I may have missed any relevant posts (ie, I didn't fine any):

Has anyone used Genesis with one of th Paradigm PW Amp or PW Link systems? The Anthem web site implies it should work, but I'm guessing there are still real world limitations (ie, like the hard coded subwoofer crossover in the PW AMP).
I can confirm it works. Full access to Genesis, for $200. "Full access" with the caveat that this is just a two channel device.

I got the Link (instead of the Amp) since the Link has line level and digital inputs and line level and digital outputs. I covet the dedicated subwoofer output on the AMP, but it was otherwise far less appealing. I don't need the power (already have powered monitors). And I would greatly miss having digital input and digital output. On the Link you can apply Genesis to the analog input and to the digital input and to streaming apps.

---

It is not all rainbows and bargains: PlayFi is a crappy platform. Luckily one can largely bypass it other than for the initial setup (connection to network, updating firmware).

Also, while Airplay support was introduced in 2016 for this device*, it doesn't actually work on mine. I've got a ticket open with Paradigm.

Finally, while DLNA works, it is a little flakey. I had to reinstall the PlayFi app to get it working, and they are still missing features like gapless playback.

Other downsides: No remote control. Well, there is the playfi app, but that's pretty darn inconvenient. There is no IR or RS232 input on the unit, so no way to hack / program a universal remote. No traditional IP control, either. And the toslink output is fixed at 48khz output. This bothered me at first but then I realized the signal was getting processed by ARC anyway, so outputting CD sourced material (for example) at 16/44.1 wouldn't really be an advantage. (And yes the digital output is limited to 48khz. If you want higher resolution output because you are streaming 24/192 sources, you have to use the analog output.)

So while it can handle multiple inputs and there is a volume control on the thing it is not very user friendly in that respect. (See below: One can automate the input selection, and turn the volume output into a fixed output, which helps considerably if one has another way to control volume, which I do, in the form of an old Emotiva XDA-2 DAC.)

--


In sum: The primary value is in an inline, fully capable Genesis processor, where the signal can stay in the digital domain, for $200. Secondarily, it has a serviceable DLNA client capability and connects to many online streaming services.

---

TIPS: (some of these aren't mentioned in the Paradigm documentation -- but appear in the equivalent device's documentation from Martin Logan. And note that Martin Logan is also selling their Unison device, which is essentially the same thing, for $200 on their web site, as well.)

Default behavior is for the volume control to impact analog and digital outputs, but one can set it up for a fixed line level output (otherwise one is left guessing what volume setting in neutral gain) by pressing the MUTE + DOWN VOLUME buttons for five seconds. (This is a toggle.)

Also, one can turn ARC off and on by holding the MUTE button for five seconds. Nice way to a/b the impact of ARC.

Finally, to avoid playing whack-a-mole with input selection one can set it to default to external inputs when playfi is not active by holding the input button for five seconds. (This is useful if one is using the streaming features sometimes, and other times wants the external input to be active -- just stop the playfi streaming, and it will revert back to accepting the input from the external inputs.)

----
Yeah, but how did it work in my Frankenstein setup?

Here is my first run, just using the powered monitors (modest JBL studio monitors with tweeters based on their high end lines), specifically the JBL Professional LSR305 First-Generation 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (LSR305), fed in this way: PW LINK -> EMOTIVA XDA-2 -> JBL Monitors.



And here is what ARC did when I had the subs connected. Same gear as before, with the addition of some Triad subs. (These are old subs, from before their Bronze/Silver/Gold lines. It is a pair of sealed subs with 12" drivers.....but the amp is in just one of the subs, and the second sub is fed with a speaker level output from the first.)

I used a miniDSP as a simple crossover, 100hz as the crossover point, 24db/octave slope. No EQ was applied in the miniDSP.

In other words, to the ARC system, it looks like two full range speakers.

The result: I was surprised ARC added so much room gain. I was running the subs about 10 db hot (in terms of level matching before running ARC) just to make sure there was headroom to work with. So they may explain part of it.

Dialing room gain down to zero tightened things up considerably.

I'm still experimenting with the hi frequncy roll off but Anthem's advice on their web site suggests I let the roll off follow the natural, measured roll off, so I'm tempted to leave that as is.




---

*https://www.paradigm.com/downloads/P...up_iOS-Mac.pdf
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My current setup.
Recommended podcasts: The Next Picture Show, the /filmcast, AV Rant.

Last edited by nathan_h; 05-24-2020 at 12:42 PM.
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post #1858 of 2074 Old 05-24-2020, 03:37 PM
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This is probably a better place to post this question.

This is literally driving me nuts guys... Surely someone else has had this issue with ARC.

We have dual subwoofers and are trying to calibrate with ARC. This probably applies to those who have 1 subwoofer as well so please listen if you have one as well.

ARC keeps saying that our subs are too loud when trying to calibrate. I thought that the Anthem ARC wants the "sub" to be at 75db prior to calibrating? If I use the Quick Measure function of ARC and set the dual subs to 75db, it says it is too hot. It only will calibrate the system and continue if I have the dual subs at 72db COMBINED.

We have tried to do it so that we turn the subwoofer volumes down to just under where they want them and running the full ARC calibration. If we do this, it puts the final Subwoofer Trim Level to +5. How? Why? I do not get this at all and it is extremely frustrating. The Subwoofer Trim should NEVER be + inside of a processor or AVR. So it says that the subs are too hot to run the ARC calibration but then when we turn them down just a little bit, it makes the trim level +5? This makes zero sense!

Hopefully someone can shed some light on this for us. I could manually go inside the processor afterwards and change it from +5 to 0 or -1 and then turn up the volume on the subwoofers, but this should not be like this!

Please help me understand and share your experiences where ARC has put your trim level inside your processor or AVR (Mine is the AVM60 running the latest firmware from Anthem's website).

Thanks much!
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post #1859 of 2074 Old 05-24-2020, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iStorm View Post
This is probably a better place to post this question.

This is literally driving me nuts guys... Surely someone else has had this issue with ARC.

We have dual subwoofers and are trying to calibrate with ARC. This probably applies to those who have 1 subwoofer as well so please listen if you have one as well.

ARC keeps saying that our subs are too loud when trying to calibrate. I thought that the Anthem ARC wants the "sub" to be at 75db prior to calibrating? If I use the Quick Measure function of ARC and set the dual subs to 75db, it says it is too hot. It only will calibrate the system and continue if I have the dual subs at 72db COMBINED.

We have tried to do it so that we turn the subwoofer volumes down to just under where they want them and running the full ARC calibration. If we do this, it puts the final Subwoofer Trim Level to +5. How? Why? I do not get this at all and it is extremely frustrating. The Subwoofer Trim should NEVER be + inside of a processor or AVR. So it says that the subs are too hot to run the ARC calibration but then when we turn them down just a little bit, it makes the trim level +5? This makes zero sense!

Hopefully someone can shed some light on this for us. I could manually go inside the processor afterwards and change it from +5 to 0 or -1 and then turn up the volume on the subwoofers, but this should not be like this!

Please help me understand and share your experiences where ARC has put your trim level inside your processor or AVR (Mine is the AVM60 running the latest firmware from Anthem's website).

Thanks much!

I replied in the Anthem Owner's thread.

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post #1860 of 2074 Old 05-24-2020, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
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I replied in the Anthem Owner's thread.
Dear Madrac,


I can't find your answer in that thread, could you share a link to your reply?
Thanks,
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