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"OFFICIAL" 2019 Marantz "NR-Series"/"SR-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ (Posts 1-6)

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#1 · (Edited)
"OFFICIAL" 2019 Marantz "NR-Series"/"SR-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ (Posts 1-6)

"OFFICIAL" 2019 Marantz NR1510/NR1710/SR5014/SR6014


Sound United (parent company of Marantz) has started to release information on the new 2019 Marantz models starting with the slim line "NR" series models. The "SR" series will be announced later this summer. The 2017 SR8012 and 2018 SR7013 will continue for 2019 and will continue to be discussed in their current respective threads.

What's new or to be added via firmware update for the 2019 models?


  • Note that all the 2019 models are still HDMI 2.0b
  • HDCP 2.3 - all inputs
  • eARC - on board (as opposed to the 2017 SR6012/SR7012 and 2018 SR6013/SR7013/SR8012 models previously receiving it via a firmware update)(Note an HDMI w/Ethernet cable must be used between the AVR and eARC capable TV)
  • USB thumb drive requirements - NTFS added
  • Airplay - ON/OFF setting
  • OvrC smart remote management
  • HDMI Input Mode setting connected to the HDMI Input Assign menu
  • HDMI Multiple Input Assign (allow to assign multiple audio sources to the same video source)
  • ALL ZONE STEREO - ON/OFF added to Smart Select button
  • Spotify Connect now available using a "FREE" Spotify account - firmware update 8-21-2019
  • Able to downmix a multi CH audio source selected in the main zone to 2CH PCM in Zone 2 by pressing the [Zone 2 Source] button on the front panel and selecting "Source" instead of the actual source name (SR6014 only)

  • Added via future firmware update:
  • Dolby Atmos Height Virtualizer (only available when sound mode selected includes "+ Dolby Surround") - firmware update released August 2019 (NR1710/SR5014/SR6014 only)
  • Bluetooth transmit to single pair of headphones/hearing aids - firmware update released December 5, 2019 [setup instructions: How to setup your Marantz AVR to output audio to Bluetooth Headphones]
  • Automatic HDMI Input rename (when input available from source player)

What features weren't carried forward from the 2018 models?
  • 7.1 multi analog inputs dropped (SR5014 only)
  • No longer able to apply DTS Neural:X on DD audio but still able to use Dolby Surround on DTS audio - added back with firmware update November, 2020
  • Dolby surround upmixer surround parameter <Center Spread> - added back with firmware update November, 2020



----------------------

Notes:
1. Although all models feature two subwoofer pre-outs, only the SR6014 has independent subwoofer volume control of each subwoofer.
2. None of these models support Front Wide speakers.


Marantz model web page info and Owner manual links


- NR1510 - MSRP $599, 5.2 CH, 50W, HDMI In/Out (6/1) - avail May
This is a slim line model that features Audyssey MultEQ (6 mic positions), networking, Web Control, DSD via USB/network source, speaker posts, 32 bit DAC, and an on board HEOS module (allows streaming of HEOS app music services to the AVR as well as streaming PCM 2.0 source from the AVR to HEOS wireless speakers set up around the home). Firmware updates are installed via a network connection or USB. There are FL/FR main zone pre-outs but no Zone 2 pre-outs. PHONO input included. Able to display volume and INFO menu on all 4k video (including Dolby Vision) with Setup screen taking up whole display on black background.

http://us.marantz.com/us/Products/P...?CatId=AVReceivers&SubCatId=&ProductId=NR1510



- NR1710 - MSRP $749, 7.2 CH, 50W, HDMI In/Out (6/1) - avail May
Upgrading from the NR1510 adds two more audio channels for a 7CH model, Atmos/DTS:X 5.2.2, DTS:X. It features 5.1 + Zone 2 capability using the Surround Back speaker posts for Zone 2 and also adds Zone 2 pre-outs using an external amp. DTS Virtual:X (simulates height audio when using a 5.1 or 7.1 configuration but Audyssey is disabled). Dolby Atmos Height Virtualizer (activated when set to ON and "...+ Dolby Surround" sound mode selected and no height speakers configured; Audyssey is not disabled). Lowest model that works with the Audyssey MultEQ Editor app (iOS/Android, $20) to fine tune the Audyssey speaker/sub calibration. Also features a 12v trigger.

http://us.marantz.com/us/Products/P...?CatId=AVReceivers&SubCatId=&ProductId=NR1710




- SR5014 - MSRP $999, 7.2 CH, 100W, HDMI In/Out (8/2) - avail July
Upgrading from the NR1710 adds HDAM Pre-Amp modules (known to provide for better 2CH music listening), 7.2 Main zone pre-outs, a second Main zone HDMI monitor output and the better version of Audyssey MultEQ XT.






- SR6014 - MSRP $1499, 9.2 CH, 110W, HDMI In/Out (8/3) - avail July
Upgrading from the SR5014 adds a Zone 2 HDMI monitor output, the best version of Audyssey (ie. MultEQ XT32), Audyssey LFC, Audyssey Sub EQ HT (dual sub level/delay), 7.1 multi analog inputs, and the ability to expand to 11CH (ie. 7.2.4) by using a 2CH external amp. DTS Virtual:X (simulates height audio when using a 5.1 or 7.1 configuration and although Audyssey MultEQ XT32 is NOT disabled, all other Audyssey features are disabled). IMAX Enhanced DTS:X. Lowest model that can pass PCM 2.0 audio from an HDMI source to Zone 2 and to HEOS wireless speakers.





-
Welcome to the Official 2019 Marantz AVR-NR/SR models thread (NR1510/NR1710/SR5014/SR6014)


If this is your first visit to this thread, and you want to ask a question about one of the 2019 Marantz AVR models, either one that you own or one that you are thinking of buying, please provide the following information to allow for better responses to your questions:

(a) Identify the model number in question (eg. SR5014), as there are 4 different models (NR and SR series) discussed in this thread. Also if you have not posted in several days since your initial post, please post the model # again so we don't have to back track to learn which model you are referencing.

(b) Identify what you've done so far to troubleshoot the issue and what the front panel is displaying if an audio issue.

(c) Unless you indicate what settings have been changed, the assumption will be that all settings are on the factory defaults (ie. usually "Auto"),

(d) If the advice given seems to simplistic or obvious, don't shoot the advice giver as we have no idea of the level of your technical understanding,

(e) If there is no response to your post, it either means no one knows the answer or it has simply been overlooked so please repost if you still haven't resolved your issue,

(f) If you post a question in this thread and are given advice and either it or some other advice (eg. Marantz phone support, Marantz "Ask a Question" email support) resolves your issue, have the common courtesy to post back what solution resolved your issue so others can learn from it as well,

(g) If the issue is not user error or not just a misunderstanding on how the AVR works, please call Marantz support so the issue is registered,

(h) When responding to another post that is providing assistance to you, please press the "Quote" button in the lower right corner of that other poster's response so that response is also listed with your new post to provide some context, and,

(i) If you don't live in either the USA or Canada, please either indicate your country location in your profile or your post as some Marantz models from other regions in the world differ in configuration from their USA/Canada counterparts otherwise responses made in this thread are in regards to the USA/Canada models only.​
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Expanding the SR6014 from 9CH to 11CH

When expanding the SR6014 from 9CH --> 11CH, the most cost effective solution is to purchase a smaller amp (eg. 50W AudioSource Amp100VS2) or re-purpose an existing AVR that you are replacing to power the second set of Height speakers. Another option for much higher cost is to purchase a much more powerful amp (eg. 300W Emotiva XPA-2) and power the Front L/R speakers. Note the SR6014 is the only 2019 model that can operate more than its on board amp capability (ie. no expansion capability on the SR5014).


50W, 12 lb solution
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1TAJM72C74241PTYPSTE

300W, 35 lb solution
https://www.amazon.com/Emotiva-Audio-stereo-audio-amplifier/dp/B01KZHOXW8/ref=dp_ob_title_def


Connection:
a. A set of RCA cables would be used to connect either the Front L/R or Height2 L/R pre-outs (depending on amp selected) on the back of the SR6014 to the L/R inputs on the external amp.
b. If using the AudioSource Amp100VS, connect to the MAIN/Line 2 inputs.
c. If using an old AVR, you would connect from the SR6014 pre-outs to one of the stereo analog audio inputs (eg. CD) of the old AVR and then connect the speakers to the Front L/R speaker posts on the old AVR.


IMPORTANT: Ensure all amps are powered off when making cable/speaker wire connections.

Volume:
If the external amp/AVR has a volume knob, set it to at least 80% of maximum.

Setting:
If using an old AVR, set it to DIRECT sound mode.

Once the amp and speakers are connected, and the amp is powered on, run Audyssey again to add these new speakers into your setup using the following AMP ASSIGN setting:

If the external amp is used for the Height 2 speakers:

Assign Mode: 11.1
Floor
- Layout
: 5ch & SB
Height
– Height Sp
: 4ch
- Layout: Front Height + Rear Height (or whatever 2 settings are available that you want to use)
- Pre-out: Height2

Note: The above PREOUT setting setting simply identifies which speaker pre-outs are being used for the expansion .... you can externally power as many other speakers as desired as all the pre-outs are hot such that you could externally power up to all 11 speakers if you prefer.


If the external amp is used for the Front L/R speakers:

Assign Mode: 11.1
Floor
- Layout
: 5ch & SB
Height
– Height Sp
: 4ch
- Layout: Front Height + Rear Height (or whatever 2 settings are available that you want to use)
- Pre-out: Front
 
#4 · (Edited)
How do I reset the microprocessor or do a network reset on my 2019 Marantz NR/SR series AVR?

When the AVR is acting up or doing something strange, try the following steps before resorting to a microprocessor reset:

1. "Restart" - set the AVR to Standby and press/hold the power ON button until "Restart" is displayed on the front panel.

If no joy, then ...

2. Soft reset - set the AVR to Standby and unplug the power cord for about 10 minutes, then plug back in the power cord and turn ON.

If neither of the above resolves the issue, then you'll need to either do a network reset (if network related) or a microprocessor reset. You'll also want to reset the microprocessor before doing anything else if you purchased the AVR as an "open box" or demo/used/refurb unit to ensure all settings are returned to their original factory defaults. Prior to doing a reset, you can SAVE the config file to a USB thumb drive so it can be LOADed after doing the reset (SETUP - GENERAL - SAVE&LOAD).


Network Reset (“Amp Assign”, “Speaker Config.” and “Video” settings are not reset)

NR1510 - p. 201

1 - Turn on the power using ON/STANDBY on the front panel.
2 - Select the HEOS Music Source
3 - Simultaneously press "TUNER PRESET CH +" and "DIMMER" on the front panel. Release your fingers when "Network Reset" is displayed on the front panel. "Completed" will display when the reset has completed.

-----------------------

NR1710 - p. 244

1 - Turn on the power using ON/STANDBY on the front panel.
2 - Select the HEOS Music Source
3 - Simultaneously press "ZONE2 SOURCE" and "DIMMER" on the front panel. Release your fingers when "Network Reset" is displayed on the front panel. "Completed" will display when the reset has completed.

-----------------------

SR5014 - p. 246
SR6014 - p. 273

1 - Turn on the power using ON/STANDBY on the front panel.
2 - Select the HEOS Music Source
3 - Simultaneously press "TUNER PRESET CH -" and "DIMMER" on the front panel. Release your fingers when "Network Reset" is displayed on the front panel. "Completed" will display when the reset has completed.

-------------


Microprocessor Reset (aka "Reset to original factory settings" although does not roll back the firmware)

Notes: (a) On all models, if you are able to access the menu, new this year, you can also do the microprocessor reset by going to SETUP - GENERAL - RESET

(b) In some cases where a single microprocessor reset did not resolve an issue, doing at least 5 in a row did

NR1510 - p. 200


1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Press ON/STANDBY while simultaneously pressing the "TUNER PRESET CH+" and "M-DAX"
3 - Remove your fingers when "Initialized" appears on the front panel display.

-------------------------

NR1710 - p. 243
SR5014 - p. 245
SR6014 - p. 272


1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Press ON/STANDBY while simultaneously pressing the "ZONE2 SOURCE" and "M-DAX"
3 - Remove your fingers when "Initialized" appears on the front panel display.

-------------------------

Factory Firmware Restore (restore to original factory firmware version)

1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Simultaneously press/hold the: NR1510/NR1710 - "STATUS" and "PURE DIRECT"; SR5014/SR6014 - "M-DAX" and "TUNER PRESET CH +" buttons on the front panel and then press the ON/STANDBY button on the front panel. This procedure will take 15-20 minutes to restore to the original factory firmware.

--------------------

** NOTES:
(1) Prior to resetting the microprocessor, you can SAVE the config/settings (to include Audyssey settings) to a USB thumb drive using the SETUP - GENERAL - SAVE & LOAD setting.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Firmware Updates

(1) Firmware updates for download to a USB thumb drive is no longer supported by Marantz.

(2) Firmware updates can be installed by the owner via an internet connection to the Marantz servers. Although it's not necessary to update your unit if you are not experiencing any problems, it's generally a good idea to keep it updated so that if there are any problems with the update the unit will still be covered under warranty. The update process generally doesn't take more than 30 minutes once the download begins and also generally does not erase any settings, although it's always a good idea to SAVE the config.avr file using the Setup - General - SAVE & LOAD - SAVE feature prior to doing the update just in case. Note that if the update process is stuck on "Authenticating", ensure a source other than NET/USB is selected and just let it continue for up to a few hours and it should eventually begin the update process (although note that Denon's servers have been known to crash the first day of release due to the overload, so you may want to wait a few days before trying again). One prior model year owner found that disconnecting ALL sources to the AVR enabled the unit to connect to the Denon servers and update the firmware when the update process had previously been unsuccessful.

Other tips if having problems with the update include setting "Network Control" to OFF in Standby, cycling the DHCP setting on the AVR, or using a static IP address.

During the update, the AVR will go into Standby mode, but will continue to update status on the front panel display. If the update seems to be hung up (ie. goes beyond 1 hour) ... power the AVR to Standby, unplug it for a few minutes and power back on and attempt the update again. If the update fails to load, check the network environment (ie. reset the router, replace the router with a more current/robust model, or ideally wire directly to the router if connecting wirelessly) If still not having any luck with the update, perform a Network Reset as described in post 3 above. You may also want to consider purchasing a long (100'+) Cat5/6 cable for network updates only for a higher probability of a successful install.

You will be notified automatically when there is a firmware update when the AVR is turned ON as long as the Notification Update setting is set to ON (factory default). For more information refer to Setup - General - Firmware - Notifications -Update in the Owner's manual. To manually check for an update, refer to Setup - General - Firmware - Update - Check for Update.

(3) What is my unit's current firmware version? The current firmware version can be determined from the AVR's menu: Setup --> General --> Information --> Firmware Version.


NOTE
: A firmware update on 6-25-2020 causes a network connection failure on some units. To resolve, refer to post 4 above and do a "Factory Firmware Restore" followed by a firmware update to a more current version that does not cause this issue.
 
#6 · (Edited)
3D Immersive Audio formats:


Dolby Atmos + Dolby Surround upmixer (aka DSU; simulates audio to height/ceiling speakers from non-Atmos BD/DVDs)

The NR1710 and SR5014 are both capable of Atmos 5.2.2 (ie. 2 height speaker maximum). You will have the choice of selecting the specific speaker pair to be used as the Atmos Height speakers (except Top Rear or Rear Height which is only selectable on the SR6014). If able to install in-ceiling or on-ceiling mounted speakers, the best location will be "Top Middle" either directly above your seated position or slightly forward of the seated position. Note that although the SR5014 has main zone pre-outs, it is not possible to expand the SR5014 beyond operating 7 speakers (ie. 5.1.2 maximum).



IMAX Enhanced DTS/DTS:X (SR6014 only) - AUDIO – SURROUND PARAMETER - IMAX (Auto/Off) (formerly also offered “On” setting which was removed for some reason via a firmware update) will not display unless there is an IMAX Enhanced DTS/DTS:X audio track source playing. (Auto/Manual) in the factory default "Auto" setting will automatically change all speaker crossovers to 70Hz (ie. Crossover, Subwoofer mode, and LPF for LFE cannot be applied), otherwise if not desired, either set to "Manual" and adjust to suit your preference or set to "Off" and will play as regular DTS/DTS:X; Note also there is no Dynamic Range compression used with IMAX Enhanced DTS/DTS:X audio tracks.

Notes:
(1) Speaker abbreviations used in this thread: Subwoofer (SW), Front L/R (FL/FR), Center (C), Surround L/R (SL/SR); Surround Back L/R (SBL/SBR); Front Height L/R (FHL/FHR); Top Front L/R (TFL/TFR); Top Middle L/R (TML/TMR); Top Rear L/R (TRL/TRR); Rear Height L/R (RHL/RHR), Front Dolby L/R (FDL/FDR); Surround Dolby L/R (SDL/SDR); Rear Dolby L/R (RDL/RDR).

Note the Top Rear, Rear Height, and Rear Dolby locations are only available on the SR6014 as this is the only 2019 model capable of 4 Height speakers whereas the lower models are only capable of 2 Height speakers.

(2) If you only have a 2.0/2.1/3.0/3.1 setup, you can still add 2 height (FH, TF, TM, or DF) speakers for a 2.X.2 or 3.X.2 Atmos only setup (ie. DTS:X requires 5.1.2 setup). However, when adding 2 Surround Back speakers you must first have a 5.1 setup, although you can simply move the "side surround" speakers behind you but still connect them to the "Surround" speaker posts.

(3) If you already have in-ceiling "side" surrounds for a 5.1 setup, you can do a 3.1.2 setup configuring the ceiling surrounds as Top Middle or with a 5.1.2 setup, if you can add (a) Front Heights (front wall mounted), (b) Top Fronts (in-ceiling or ceiling mounted a few feet forward and above the FL/FR speakers), or (c) Front Dolby (upward firing speakers placed on top of (or near) the FL/FR speakers. Yet another option would be to add some floor side surrounds and configure the current ceiling speakers as Top Middle.

(4) For more detailed questions and additional information on Dolby Atmos, please refer to the Official Dolby Atmos thread.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Just picked up a NR1710 today. This is going in a sunroom and I love, love, love how small and discrete it is. I did run into an issue with Audessey setup: Upon initial powerup, when I connected the microphone and ran the setup, it gave me an error message saying that it couldn't find any speakers (although the test tone played very loudly from the left speaker 3 times, at increasing volumes). So then I did a software update and re-ran the Audessey setup, it picked up my Left Speaker, and played the test tone in the Right speaker, but at the end of the first pass of calibration, it said "right speaker not detected".



I only have two speakers connected to it. I'm wondering if this is just a quirk that'll be resolved via a software update, or something more. I can't imagine it would be a serious issue. I have a Marantz 8801 AVP which also has Audessey and I never once encountered this issue.



Doesn't work: Apple HomeKit integration. I followed the directions on marantz's site to add the receiver to HomeKit. It shows up on the HomeKit screen but then it just says "unable to add accessory".



Doesn't work: AirPlay 2. I tried to play a Youtube video back using the Youtube app and the Airplay button. It said I needed to enter a code displayed on the receiver to get it to pair/work, but no code was ever sent.


Annoyance: whenever you want to change the volume, it shows the regular marantz volume, and another bar graph on the side called "ECO" which shows some stupid green bar graph thing. I turned off ECO mode or whatever, and I just want the regular volume control bar graph, but I cant get it to just show that instead of all that other crap.





I assume because this model is brand new, it'll take some time for these features to work, I guess maybe I'm just being impatient. Besides that, it looks great, sounds great, which I guess is the most important part.
 
#8 ·
Just picked up a NR1710 today. This is going in a sunroom and I love, love, love how small and discrete it is. I did run into an issue with Audessey setup: Upon initial powerup, when I connected the microphone and ran the setup, it gave me an error message saying that it couldn't find any speakers (although the test tone played very loudly from the left speaker 3 times, at increasing volumes). So then I did a software update and re-ran the Audessey setup, it picked up my Left Speaker, and played the test tone in the Right speaker, but at the end of the first pass of calibration, it said "right speaker not detected".

I only have two speakers connected to it. I'm wondering if this is just a quirk that'll be resolved via a software update, or something more. I can't imagine it would be a serious issue. I have a Marantz 8801 AVP which also has Audessey and I never once encountered this issue.

Doesn't work: Apple HomeKit integration. I followed the directions on marantz's site to add the receiver to HomeKit. It shows up on the HomeKit screen but then it just says "unable to add accessory".

Doesn't work: AirPlay 2. I tried to play a Youtube video back using the Youtube app and the Airplay button. It said I needed to enter a code displayed on the receiver to get it to pair/work, but no code was ever sent.

Annoyance: whenever you want to change the volume, it shows the regular marantz volume, and another bar graph on the side called "ECO" which shows some stupid green bar graph thing. I turned off ECO mode or whatever, and I just want the regular volume control bar graph, but I cant get it to just show that instead of all that other crap.

I assume because this model is brand new, it'll take some time for these features to work, I guess maybe I'm just being impatient. Besides that, it looks great, sounds great, which I guess is the most important part.
Could be a defective microphone. Contact Marantz for a replacement.
 
#10 ·
With this unit, I should be able to AirPlay music just to the Zone 2 speakers, right? I'm in the process of installing the zone two speakers to our patio so I cannot test this as of yet. I was able to just open up my phone and push the AirPlay icon and have it turn on the marantz and start playback in the Main Zone for my music.



I remember the 8801 had a limitation that only analog sources could be played back in Zone 2, and the manual for the NR1709 also has a statement saying it's Zone 2 cannot be played back with HDMI, or COAX sources. But they dont say anything about AirPlay, one way or the other.
 
#18 ·
@jdsmoothie


First off, thanks again for doing these threads. Big help to the community. Also kinda surprised it hasn't got more posts yet.


When looking over the specs of the new X014 series, I see you mention it will now have Dolby Height Virtualizer. I may have missed it, but what's the difference between that vs Dolby Surround Upmixer?


And since you stated "No longer able to apply DTS Neural:X on DD audio" for the new models, will that be taken away from the '18 X013 models?


Lastly, what's the deal with HDCP 2.3? My understanding is that it was to be used with HDMI 2.1. But these don't support that. So what is the point of adding that? What will be using that?


Sucks there won't be a 7014 model released this year. But it appears that it's a holdover year for receivers just like TV's. Not too much worthwhile in the specs/advancement department.



Thanks!
 
#19 ·
@jdsmoothie


First off, thanks again for doing these threads. Big help to the community. Also kinda surprised it hasn't got more posts yet.


When looking over the specs of the new X014 series, I see you mention it will now have Dolby Height Virtualizer. I may have missed it, but what's the difference between that vs Dolby Surround Upmixer?


And since you stated "No longer able to apply DTS Neural:X on DD audio" for the new models, will that be taken away from the '18 X013 models?


Lastly, what's the deal with HDCP 2.3? My understanding is that it was to be used with HDMI 2.1. But these don't support that. So what is the point of adding that? What will be using that?


Sucks there won't be a 7014 model released this year. But it appears that it's a holdover year for receivers just like TV's. Not too much worthwhile in the specs/advancement department.



Thanks!
1. Dolby Height Virtualizer simulates "height" audio when there are no height speakers. DSU sends audio to actual height speakers.
2. AFAIK, not to be taken away from 2018 or earlier models.
3. Not sure what it will be used for until actual HDMI 2.1 devices are released.
 
#20 ·
Marantz finally posted the instruction manual for the 1710. In the manual it lists the amp rating as 70wpc but all the other literature says 50wpc. I've also been trying to set it up with HomeKit and sometimes it connects and sometimes it gives me an error. Is there any sort of timeline for this product to get out of the 'beta' stage and have all of these features enabled?
 
#26 ·
Just got my NR1710 setup! :) Upgraded from an NR1403 and loving it so far.

Quick question, when I throw a Dolby Atmos file to it from my htpc, the display shows "THD +Dsur". Is this because I only have a 5.1 system setup, or is there something wrong with my input. DTS-X files will show up as "DTS-X Neural" When I click the "movie" or audio buttons on the bottom of the remote, I do see the option from Dolby Atmos and TrueHD.
 
This post has been deleted
#33 · (Edited)
Can software issues cause a unit to be a lemon?

Today I bought and hooked up a Sony XBR55A9F. During initial setup, the Apple TV 4K prompted me to enable Dolby Vision. As soon as I enabled it, the TV screen went blank and said 'no input signal' and defaulted back to the default TV signal. The Apple TV is hooked up to "Media Player" on the marantz. the marantz outputs to HDMI 3 (ARC) input on the back of the TV.

  • I tried hooking up the Apple TV directly to the Sony TV (HDMI 1 on the TV), and I was again prompted to enable Dolby Vision, and the TV immediately recognized the signal and has worked perfectly. So it's not the TV set, the HDMI cable or the Apple TV.

  • I reset the marantz unit to factory settings and tried again. Didnt work.

  • I enabled "Enhanced" under the 4K video menu. Didn't work.

  • I tried using different inputs, hooking the marantz up to the same input (HDMI 1) on the back of the TV as the one I used for the Apple TV. Didn't work.
  • If I play something back on the TV (like say from a USB flash drive), the marantz says "TV Audio" but no sound comes from the unit.
I have ignored the quirks up to this point but this last thing is sort of a serious issue for me, since I got all this stuff for 4k HDR compatibility. I'm not sure how to proceed. This is all software related, and the first thing I did (which I always do) is update the firmware to the latest build, which is what it's been running since day one.


These are all the past issues I've had with this unit since buying it and setting it up on July 12th:



While it sounds great, I've had nothing but software issues from the beginning:

  • right when I hooked it up, Audyssey wouldn't detect one of my speakers. I don't know what happened, but eventually it did detect both (I'm only running stereo mode) but it never asked for, or detected my subwoofer, I had to manually enable the subwoofer setting.
  • It didnt recognize HomeKit. I had to reset the network settings, unplug the ethernet, enable the Wi-Fi, and only then did it detect my HomeKit (it has worked perfectly since then).
  • The first time I was playing music over my LAN network, I pushed the button for Direct/Pure Direct mode, and all sound went away while the unit showed the music was still playing back. The sound only came back after I power cycled the unit, but after that initial time, those modes have worked fine.


I really like the unit and its perfect for our space and it sounds great. I'm just sort of exasperated as to what is going on. Should I talk to my dealer about an exchange or have I missed something?
 
#35 ·
^^

Apple TV will not pass Dolby Vision video - On the Apple TV, set it to "4K SDR" and turn on "Match Content and frame rate". This allows the Apple TV to enable Dolby vision automatically for appropriate material.

USB audio must be a 2.0 stereo file.

But when I connected the Apple TV directly to my TV, I got a 'dolby vision' logo to pop up on the TV, and it didn't give me the same 'no input signal detected' warning I got when the Apple TV was hooked up via the Marantz. So was that a false alert?



The other issue I have is that the TV audio feature simply isnt working and I'm not sure why that is. I watch TV with a HD Homerun Prime and the video and audio are perfect on the TV, but if I select the audio to go to the Marantz, I hear nothing. The marantz automatically changes inputs to "TV Audio" and the volume control takes over, but I don't hear anything.



I tried it with online streaming services like Youtube and the HD Homerun Prime. I've also tried playing a USB video file by plugging it directly into the TV. TV speaker audio is again perfect but output to the Marantz is silent.



Thank you so much for helping, I'm over here all but pulling out my hair. Is this an HDMI CEC issue?
 
#36 ·
^^
Have you changed the ARC setting on the Marantz from the default OFF to ON? If yes, to clarify, with the "TV Audio" source displayed, there is no sound from the Marantz even with the volume raised to near 80/0dB? Try doing a "soft reset" of the Marantz and TV by powering both off, unplugging their respective power cables and the HDMI cable that connects them for 10 minutes. Connect all cables and then power on the TV, pause and then the AVR (unless using HDMI Control in which case the AVR should power on automatically).
 
#37 ·
Okay well, I don't know what happened, but the TV Audio issues are all resolved. I didn't do anything it just fixed itself? I'm now getting TV audio from all the correct sources and the proper signal sources are lighting up.



I tried to re-enable Dolby Vision but I got the same error, but you're saying that leaving it in SDR and having it match the frame rate and source is all I need to get HDR, correct? (Why is it like that btw?)



https://imgur.com/0s8LUkh
 
#39 ·
Just as an update:



I was able to get Dolby Vision to work with my setup (Sony XBR55A9F and Apple TV 4K). I plugged the Apple TV 4K into the HDMI 2 input on my TV, bypassing the receiver. I ran the dolby vision test and it passed right away. I then enabled the 'match frame rate and content' settings on the Apple TV and now on Netflix, when a show is available in 4K, the Dolby Vision Logo pops up when I stop playback of the show. Both the TV and the receiver support ARC/eARC so the audio is being routed just fine, and HDMI CEC functionality still works like it did before. The only difference now is that my receiver no longer says "Apple TV" on the main display and instead says "TV Audio".



I am thinking maybe this is some sort of EDID handshake issue (because you told me that it was likely that when I had an issue with my AV8801). I think maybe its the HDMI cables I'm using and I'm gonna try some different ones and report back.
 
#40 ·
So I've been complaining about how I couldn't route the Apple TV 4K via the 1710 and pass the dolby vision test. Evidently, cables do matter. I tried this cable and it fixed everything:



https://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-AV10175/


It's expensive, its rated for 8K. but for whatever reason, it works. All of my HDMI issues are gone. I used to think a cable was a cable was a cable, and just got some from Walmart that was 'high speed with ethernet'. It didn't pass the Dolby test, and every time I would exit an app, I kept getting crackling sounds coming from the speakers.
 
#42 ·
I’ve decided to buy a high end Marantz, question when will the 2020 models that support hdmi 2.1 be announced or when are the normal Marantz announcements made? Bottom line money is burning in my pocket, but I refuse to be outdated again.
Should be announced summer 2020 with sale in Sep/Oct 2020.
 
#50 ·
Is there a way to use the Audyssey software to set and calibrate the subwoofer level? In my older marantz, it would set up the microphone and tell you to turn the gain up or down based on the test tone coming from the sub. Maybe I’m missing the area to find it but Is that still possible?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#52 ·
So which one of these 2019 Marantz NR1510/NR1710/SR5014/SR6014 is going to work the best for 3.1 home theatre and 2 channel stereo? Will start with the AVR and can use pre-outsto add a stereo amp for better 2 channel sound. Looking at the NR1710 or SR 5014 for a set up with three Kef Q150's and sub or three RSL CG5's and sub. Both AVR's are 7.2 but they have better specs and MultEQ XT vs the NR 1510 SR6014 is a bit much for 3.1.
 
#54 ·
The "SR" models feature HDAM pre-amp modules which are generally reviewed as providing for better 2CH stereo quality. The SR6014 ups the ante even more by using the much better version of Audyssey MultEQ XT32, although unless you can take advantage of the other additional features as noted in post 1, the SR5014 is your best choice. Note also the "NR" models use MultEQ while the SR5014 uses MultEQ XT.
 
#53 ·
Help needed for getting things going...

I am trying to setup a NR 1609 for a friend and need some help. Currently this is the way it is setup:


DVD - via composite cables - Marantz DVD input (red, white and yellow cable)
VCR - via composite cables - Sharp Smart TV AV1 input (red white and yellow cable)
Camcorder - via composite cables - Sharp Smart TV AV2 (red, white and yellow cable)

Cable box - via HDMI - Marantz TV input (HDMI)

TV audio output - Marantz AV1 input via 3.5mm to composite cable (red & white)
Marantz to TV HDMI 1 - (HDMI cable)


When I try to play a music cd on the DVD player, I have to have the TV turned on for audio to go out via the receiver; if I turn off the TV, the audio turns off. Is there a way to get around this? I would rather not have the TV turned on when I listen to music. The DVD player only has the red, white, yellow outputs.


I cannot get the TV's audio output to be recognized by the receiver. Any suggestions on how to resolve this issue or at least where I need to check to find the answer? I can connect the 3.5 mm cable to another system that has a 3.5mm aux input jack and get TV audio from it.
 
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