"OFFICIAL" 2019 Marantz "NR-Series"/"SR-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ (Posts 1-6) - Page 18 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #511 of 561 Old 06-19-2020, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by spedf22 View Post
Jdsmoothie, thanks for your response. When the Apple TV "Movies" app sends ATMOS data to the SR6014 over PCM, what will be displayed on the receiver? Multi Ch in?

That seems strange to me because the Apple TV "Disney+" app sends ATMOS data to the SR6014, and the receiver displays "ATMOS."
I may have solved my issue. I saw in another thread that Ready Player One was on iTunes in ATMOS. I own the movie, so I started playing it. Sure enough, the SR6014 shows ATMOS for the source. I just assumed the movie (Avengers Endgame) I was using to test the set-up would be in ATMOS in both iTunes and Disney+, but I guess I was wrong!
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post #512 of 561 Old 06-23-2020, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The <HDMI Control> setting on the AVR has not been required for several years now, ever since a dedicated <ARC> setting was introduced. The ARC setting (p. 164 Owner's manual) factory defaults to OFF and therefore must be set to ON. Note also that when changing this setting (or HDMI Control for that matter), the AVR must be powered off for a few minutes and then powered on again. The HDMI cable from the TV must be connected to the HDMI Monitor Output on the AVR labeled "ARC/eARC" rather than an HDMI "input" as you currently have configured (ie. the same HDMI cable that is used to pass source video connected to the AVR to the TV is also used to pass the ARC/eARC audio from the TV back to the AVR. You'll also have to set the <TV Audio Switching> setting (p. 165 Owner's manual) as desired as the factory default is "On" which would automatically switch the AVR to the "TV Audio" source every time the AVR is powered on vs. you manually having to select the "TV Audio" source button when you wanted to use the ARC/eARC feature.

Also, unlike ARC, eARC requires an HDMI cable with the Ethernet channel built-in.
I am new to the forum, and have a SR6014. This is probably a stupid question, but..... What is the purpose of using eARC at all if the source is coming through the 6014 and then on to the TV? Unless I had something hooked directly to the TV, and wanted that source fed back to the receiver, what am I gaining? Seems like using eARC would use the TV vs the receivers capability?? Again, I am sure I am missing something.....
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post #513 of 561 Old 06-23-2020, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artw123 View Post
I am new to the forum, and have a SR6014. This is probably a stupid question, but..... What is the purpose of using eARC at all if the source is coming through the 6014 and then on to the TV? Unless I had something hooked directly to the TV, and wanted that source fed back to the receiver, what am I gaining? Seems like using eARC would use the TV vs the receivers capability?? Again, I am sure I am missing something.....
Nothing. ARC/eARC are only used when you want to pass one of the TV's on board smart app audio (eg. Netflix, Hulu, Vudu, YouTube, etc.) or audio from a source connected directly to the TV back to the AVR. If all sources are connected to the AVR (as recommended) and you're using a 3rd party device (eg. Roku, AppleTV, etc.) for the smart apps connected directly to the AVR, there is no need to use ARC/eARC.

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 06-23-2020 at 10:25 AM.
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post #514 of 561 Old 06-23-2020, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Nothing. ARC/eARC are only used when you want to pass one of the TV's on board smart app audio (eg. Netflix, Hulu, Vudu, YouTube, etc.) or audio from a source connected directly to the TV back to the AVR. If all sources are connected to the AVR (as recommended) and you're using a 3rd party device (eg. Roku, AppleTV, etc.) for the smart apps connected directly to the AVR, there is no need to use ARC/eARC.
That's what I thought. Would I be better to change to the normal HDMI input on the TV so that the source is not being transferred back to the receiver?

Thanks for your input
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post #515 of 561 Old 06-23-2020, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artw123 View Post
That's what I thought. Would I be better to change to the normal HDMI input on the TV so that the source is not being transferred back to the receiver?

Thanks for your input
Audio is only passed from the TV --> AVR if ARC/eARC is enabled on both the TV and the AVR. The factory default on these 2019 AVR is ARC = OFF. If not, doesn't matter what TV input you use.
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post #516 of 561 Old 06-23-2020, 10:17 PM
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how to connect samsung UE55K6300 tv and mitsubishi hc300 projector, to see and listen? can I stream from smartphone, pc, to music? how can i see netflix? thank you
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post #517 of 561 Old 06-23-2020, 10:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by auleia1 View Post
how to connect samsung UE55K6300 tv and mitsubishi hc300 projector, to see and listen? can I stream from smartphone, pc, to music? how can i see netflix? thank you
As noted in post 1 of this thread, there are 4 models discussed in the thread. Which model are you asking about? If you have a model that features dual main zone monitor outputs, you would connect the TV to Monitor 1 (ARC) Out and the PJ to Monitor 2 Out. Use the HEOS app (iOS/Android) to stream audio to the AVR. Use ARC to send Neflix audio from the TV back to the AVR.
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post #518 of 561 Old 06-24-2020, 04:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
As noted in post 1 of this thread, there are 4 models discussed in the thread. Which model are you asking about? If you have a model that features dual main zone monitor outputs, you would connect the TV to Monitor 1 (ARC) Out and the PJ to Monitor 2 Out. Use the HEOS app (iOS/Android) to stream audio to the AVR. Use ARC to send Neflix audio from the TV back to the AVR.
sr5014.
PJ?
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post #519 of 561 Old 06-24-2020, 04:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auleia1 View Post
sr5014.
PJ?
PJ = Projector
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post #520 of 561 Old 06-24-2020, 04:13 AM
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ok, grazie.
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post #521 of 561 Old 06-24-2020, 04:22 AM - Thread Starter
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AVR switches to Apple TV when first powered on: If setting HDMI-CEC on the TV and AVR both to OFF is not practical or it simply does not resolve the issue, consider adding the following adapter between the Apple TV and the AVR ---> https://www.amazon.com/Lindy-HDMI-Ad.../dp/B00DL48KVI
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post #522 of 561 Old 06-26-2020, 09:55 AM
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Hi All, recently replaced my onkyo with Marantz 5014. Got everything setup with exception of zone 2. During speaker setup and testing sounds were emitted from Polk outdoor speakers (zone 2).

However, when trying to play Spotify or even FM stations, there is no sound coming from zone2. I have zone2 wired as surround back. From the menu, I am turning on zone 2, then connecting to source. Example, HEOS. Another example, FM local station, selecting tuner. No sound from either source in zone2. I have read the manual and am scratching my head. It seems very basic, but not working for me.

Any help is welcome. Thank you
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post #523 of 561 Old 06-26-2020, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by met64 View Post
Hi All, recently replaced my onkyo with Marantz 5014. Got everything setup with exception of zone 2. During speaker setup and testing sounds were emitted from Polk outdoor speakers (zone 2).

However, when trying to play Spotify or even FM stations, there is no sound coming from zone2. I have zone2 wired as surround back. From the menu, I am turning on zone 2, then connecting to source. Example, HEOS. Another example, FM local station, selecting tuner. No sound from either source in zone2. I have read the manual and am scratching my head. It seems very basic, but not working for me.

Any help is welcome. Thank you
Ensure AMP ASSIGN = 5.1 + Zone 2.

How far is the speaker wire length to the Zone 2 speakers? What gauge is the speaker wire? Have you tried raising the Zone 2 volume level?
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post #524 of 561 Old 06-26-2020, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Ensure AMP ASSIGN = 5.1 + Zone 2.

How far is the speaker wire length to the Zone 2 speakers? What gauge is the speaker wire? Have you tried raising the Zone 2 volume level?

Hi, jdsmoothie- THANK YOU!!!! I was missing the amp assign and once completed, zone 2 works as it should.

Really appreciate your help. I was pulling my hair out over this. So far, really like the Marantz.

Thanks again!!
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post #525 of 561 Old 06-27-2020, 11:20 AM
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Seems new issue has risen with SR5014. Twice since I connected everything, while watching tv or movie, I loose sound. In addition, I also loose video. All connections are tight and the cables are brand new. Only recourse I have is to unplug the Marantz to get it working again. Did quick search online and see mentions of running hot, but mine is in open cabinet, plenty of ventilation.

Hope it's just a glitch. Any ideas? Thank you in advance. Well within return window.
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post #526 of 561 Old 06-27-2020, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by met64 View Post
Seems new issue has risen with SR5014. Twice since I connected everything, while watching tv or movie, I loose sound. In addition, I also loose video. All connections are tight and the cables are brand new. Only recourse I have is to unplug the Marantz to get it working again. Did quick search online and see mentions of running hot, but mine is in open cabinet, plenty of ventilation.

Hope it's just a glitch. Any ideas? Thank you in advance. Well within return window.
wow that sucks.
I've had mine for months and not a single problem.
I think I'd return it were I you...

TV: Sony XBR 65X950G, AVR: Marantz SR5014, Speakers: front/Paradigm Prestige 15B bookshelf, center/Paradigm Prestige 45C, surround/Paradigm Atom, sub/SVS SB3000, DVD: Panasonic DP-UB820P-K Disk Player, Media Player: Zidoo Z9S & Roku Streaming Stick +, Remote: Logitech Harmony Ultimate Home
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post #527 of 561 Old 06-30-2020, 11:41 AM
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Use of pre-outs and speaker terminals simultaneously

Hi,

I have recently bought a Marantz SR5014 7.1 AV receiver. I am currently using it with Quad S1 front speakers, Quad S Center and Polk Tsx rears. It's a 5.1 set up.

Recently I same across a Swans 5.1 HT package, which I really liked. The midrange was extremely lush and warm. The sub has amp built in for the speakers as well. I want to buy it.

I want to know:

1) I do not want to disconnect the current set up. Rather I would like to switch between the speakers connected to terminals and pre-outs alternately. Is that possible? Does plugging in the preouts automatically turn off the speakers connected to the terminals? Or do I have to press zone 2 or something I that?

1) Is it possible to play the 5.1 speakers from preout and 2 height speakers from the receiver terminals to make it a 7.1 experience?

As you may guess from my questions, I am a complete noob

I the receiver is hooked up to a PC. Cant use the 5.1 options in the motherboard as the ports are noisy.

Any help is much appreciated.

Stereo listening - Quad S1 / DAC - Schiit Modi Multibit / Sennheiser HD 598
Front Speakers - KEF Q300
Rear Speakers - KEF Q100
Center - KEF Q600
Receiver - Yahama HTR 3067
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post #528 of 561 Old 06-30-2020, 12:13 PM
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How would you switch between the terminal connected speakers and the ones connect to the preamp outputs without disconnecting anything?

are all these speakers going to be in the same room?

Do you have a link for the Swan system? Need to see how this subwoofer amp works.

Afro GT
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post #529 of 561 Old 06-30-2020, 12:26 PM
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Yes all the speakers will be in the same room. Here is the link to Swans 5.1

https://proaudiohome.com/p/swans-m20...stem/itemMjgx/

Stereo listening - Quad S1 / DAC - Schiit Modi Multibit / Sennheiser HD 598
Front Speakers - KEF Q300
Rear Speakers - KEF Q100
Center - KEF Q600
Receiver - Yahama HTR 3067
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post #530 of 561 Old 06-30-2020, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HumbertHumbert View Post
I do not want to disconnect the current set up. Rather I would like to switch between the speakers connected to terminals and pre-outs alternately.
Normally I would want to see the manual to answer that question, but manual not available from that site, oh well.

If your AVR have discrete channels pre-outs, all 5,7 of them blah-blah, those are analog pre-outs, they are good to drive individual speakers (each speaker have its own banana jacks), but it needs an amplifier in between, where are you getting that amplification?

I don't know if this speaker-set does any signal processing, again no manual, I have to guess. Some of these all-in-one sets, there is a control/amplifier module, sometimes built into the sub box, and provides amplification to all speakers, that will make be a difference how and if you can use them.

Post a link to the manual, then we don't have to guess.

Quote:
Is that possible? Does plugging in the preouts automatically turn off the speakers connected to the terminals?
Nope, pre-outs is always active regardless of speakers outs.

Quote:
receiver is hooked up to a PC. Cant use the 5.1 options in the motherboard as the ports are noisy.
Then I suggest PC ---(toslink)---> AVR. Some AVR also allow a USB connection.

Last edited by MrBobb; 06-30-2020 at 12:58 PM.
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post #531 of 561 Old 06-30-2020, 01:13 PM
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is this the Swan system?
https://www.amazon.com/Swan-Speakers.../dp/B001EQ67HO

https://swanspeakers.com/product/m20-5-1/

If so it says they are active speakers but everything connects thru the subwoofer.
https://swanspeakers.com/wp-content/...20-5.1MKII.pdf

Not sure how you would turn off the speakers connected to the Marantz as there is no speakers on/off button on the receiver.
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Afro GT
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post #532 of 561 Old 06-30-2020, 01:27 PM
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This nice diagram says, you send all all discrete analog signals to it, so yes, hookup all you pre-outs here, and both of your speakers will be blaring at the same time. There maybe a timing delay potentially providing echo. Only one set of speakers on at a time, or speakers-sets rooms apart, OK.

Quote:
Not sure how you would turn off the speakers connected to the Marantz as there is no speakers on/off button on the receiver.
If AVR (rare) have Speaker A, B enable/disable.

or

Pre-outs have fixed level outputs, control volume there via sub's VOLUME knob (one hopes it controls all speakers, not just the sub), and main speakers through AVR.

Last edited by MrBobb; 06-30-2020 at 01:30 PM.
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post #533 of 561 Old 06-30-2020, 02:26 PM
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On Marantz AVR's the pre-outs are always hot, you can't turn them off. So if you plug in one set of speakers to the pre-outs and one set to the speaker terminals then all speakers will play and you can't do anything to stop it.

The good news is that the volume control is working just fine on the pre-outs, if not you would need a very strange power amp with built in volume control if you were going down that route.

Tower Cinema - 9.1.6 in a 12'x12' room
Input : Nvidia Shield TV, Panasonic DMP-UB400
Magic : Marantz SR7010, Marantz SR6010, 2x NAD T743
Output : Panasonic TX65EZ952B, SVS PB13 Ultra, Monitor Audio GSLCR 2xGS20 2xGS10 4xGSFX 6xBX1
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post #534 of 561 Old 06-30-2020, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
On Marantz AVR's the pre-outs are always hot, you can't turn them off. So if you plug in one set of speakers to the pre-outs and one set to the speaker terminals then all speakers will play and you can't do anything to stop it.
He can turn off the power on the Swan sub and then that 5.1 system won't play since all the speakers are connected to the Swan sub.

but no way to turn off his other set of speakers (Quads) connected to the Marantz terminals.

Afro GT
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post #535 of 561 Old 07-01-2020, 08:24 AM
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wow that sucks.
I've had mine for months and not a single problem.
I think I'd return it were I you...
Well, a new day and a new issue with this Amp. First, I seemed to have corrected the powering issue by using separate outlet/surge for Amp. Seemed, with everything connected was causing some type of shortage.

Now, 2 things are going on with my SR5014

- While in watch TV activity and regardless of channel selected, the marantz produces no sound. I wait for at least 10 seconds and this is hit or miss- hear sound from Marantz. Sometimes, there is no sound even after some time. Only fix is to turn amp off. Again, this situation is sparodic but happens enough to give me concern.

- Second, while in watch TV or Watch movie activity, the input randomly changes. Example, last night while watching movie via apple tv, input randomly changed to bluetooth. The remote was sitting on table next to me. In other words, nobody changed inputs, the amp changed by itself.

Have emailed Marantz as getting through to anyone is a joke. Any suggestions? Did I just get a lemon? Ty

Last edited by met64; 07-01-2020 at 08:25 AM. Reason: add model number
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post #536 of 561 Old 07-01-2020, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by met64 View Post
Well, a new day and a new issue with this Amp. First, I seemed to have corrected the powering issue by using separate outlet/surge for Amp. Seemed, with everything connected was causing some type of shortage.

Now, 2 things are going on with my SR5014

- While in watch TV activity and regardless of channel selected, the marantz produces no sound. I wait for at least 10 seconds and this is hit or miss- hear sound from Marantz. Sometimes, there is no sound even after some time. Only fix is to turn amp off. Again, this situation is sparodic but happens enough to give me concern.

- Second, while in watch TV or Watch movie activity, the input randomly changes. Example, last night while watching movie via apple tv, input randomly changed to bluetooth. The remote was sitting on table next to me. In other words, nobody changed inputs, the amp changed by itself.

Have emailed Marantz as getting through to anyone is a joke. Any suggestions? Did I just get a lemon? Ty
1. To mitigate HDMI handshake issues from occurring, power on in the following order: TV, pause 5 seconds, AVR, pause 5 seconds, source.
2. Is Bluetooth the only input that is changed to? Are any devices paired to the AVR? Try unpairing them to see if that resolves the issue.
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post #537 of 561 Old 07-01-2020, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. To mitigate HDMI handshake issues from occurring, power on in the following order: TV, pause 5 seconds, AVR, pause 5 seconds, source.
2. Is Bluetooth the only input that is changed to? Are any devices paired to the AVR? Try unpairing them to see if that resolves the issue.
Ok, will try the suggestion. But, yes. my iPhone is paired to the AVR via BT as I use my phone in zone2 for Spotify.

Thanks again,
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post #538 of 561 Old 07-01-2020, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by met64 View Post
Ok, will try the suggestion. But, yes. my iPhone is paired to the AVR via BT as I use my phone in zone2 for Spotify.

Thanks again,
Ok, made suggested changes and finally spoke to Marantz. The BT issue he couldn't explain where an input suddenly changed to BT. However, did offer suggestions for the no-sound issue. It seemed, pending source the audio was being output in PCM. He had me change this DD-Surround and it seems to have helped a lot. My question remains... shouldn't this AVR recognize the audio input regardless and adjust? In other words, it shouldn't matter what I am watching.. the receiver should accommodate.

I am no expert by any means, but I am hopeful this change in audio output removes the no-audio issue. FWIW, I also learned the HEOS will not work on 5g network, at least mine. I switched to 2.4 and HEOS app+marantz app works as they should. Will see how next few days go, but am still hopeful I do not need to return

Thanks again, JD
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post #539 of 561 Old 07-02-2020, 02:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by met64 View Post
Ok, made suggested changes and finally spoke to Marantz. The BT issue he couldn't explain where an input suddenly changed to BT. However, did offer suggestions for the no-sound issue. It seemed, pending source the audio was being output in PCM. He had me change this DD-Surround and it seems to have helped a lot. My question remains... shouldn't this AVR recognize the audio input regardless and adjust? In other words, it shouldn't matter what I am watching.. the receiver should accommodate.

I am no expert by any means, but I am hopeful this change in audio output removes the no-audio issue. FWIW, I also learned the HEOS will not work on 5g network, at least mine. I switched to 2.4 and HEOS app+marantz app works as they should. Will see how next few days go, but am still hopeful I do not need to return

Thanks again, JD
1. Select PURE - AUTO if you want the AVR to play the surround mode that most closely matches the input signal. In my case, I prefer using DTS Neural:X for all DD/DTS audio so I select MOVIE - DTS Neural:X.
2. HEOS will work on either band; however, all HEOS components need to be on the same band.
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post #540 of 561 Old 07-02-2020, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. Select PURE - AUTO if you want the AVR to play the surround mode that most closely matches the input signal. In my case, I prefer using DTS Neural:X for all DD/DTS audio so I select MOVIE - DTS Neural:X.
2. HEOS will work on either band; however, all HEOS components need to be on the same band.
Thanks again. Really appreciate your help and patience with the repeated questions. Enjoy the 4th
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