The *Official* Emotiva XMC-2 owners thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 463 Old 11-07-2019, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by stef2 View Post
As many others, I am watching the XMC-2 and hoping for the Monprice HTP-1 to become available soon.
I cannot wait to buy one of those, as soon as DiracLive is available.

But has the XMC-2 MSRP really increased to 4000USD? Last time I checked, it was 3000USD (Sept.19). Today, their website shows MSRP 4008USD?

Is that just a bug? I was not expecting a 33% increase in price...might tip the balance towards the HTP-1.
Recent podcast says after the new year for Dirac Live. Another delay, who would have guessed.

Sounds like either you selected a different currency (CAD?) from the tab at the top of their web page or it self-selected for some reason. Prices have not changed.

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post #62 of 463 Old 11-07-2019, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
Recent podcast says after the new year for Dirac Live. Another delay, who would have guessed.

Sounds like either you selected a different currency (CAD?) from the tab at the top of their web page or it self-selected for some reason. Prices have not changed.

Curious what the holdup is with DIRAC if it is on Emotiva's side or DIRAC's. Bummer another delay.
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post #63 of 463 Old 11-07-2019, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by lexiconthx View Post
Curious what the holdup is with DIRAC if it is on Emotiva's side or DIRAC's. Bummer another delay.
Emotiva says Dirac has not released multichannel code to them for the chipset they're using. Stereo Dirac is working on a test mule. No multichannel. Ball is in Dirac's court.
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post #64 of 463 Old 11-08-2019, 05:35 AM
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Emotiva says Dirac has not released multichannel code to them for the chipset they're using. Stereo Dirac is working on a test mule. No multichannel. Ball is in Dirac's court.

At least they are keeping us in the loop. Honestly it sounds amazing without DIRAC and actually much better then my old Marantz 7702mkii did with Audussy.
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post #65 of 463 Old 11-08-2019, 09:35 AM
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Honestly it sounds amazing without DIRAC and actually much better then my old Marantz 7702mkii did with Audussy.

Interesting; maybe it would be closer w/Audyssey turned off.

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post #66 of 463 Old 11-08-2019, 10:28 AM
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Interesting; maybe it would be closer w/Audyssey turned off.

I always thought the Marantz sounded better with Audyssey turned on so I don't think this would be the case. To me it isn't even close the XMC-2 is a much better sounding preamp. This isn't saying the Marantz is bad by any means but rather how good the XMC-2 is.
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post #67 of 463 Old 11-10-2019, 08:43 AM
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Puzzled by comparisons of preamps with digital room correction turned on and off. Seems to me, how a preamp "sounds", and how digital room correction deals with room modes and reflections, are mutually exclusive. If your room has a 15db peak at 40Hz and 10db cancellation at 60Hz, THAT will sound the same with any preamp.
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post #68 of 463 Old 11-10-2019, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by petew View Post
Emotiva says Dirac has not released multichannel code to them for the chipset they're using. Stereo Dirac is working on a test mule. No multichannel. Ball is in Dirac's court.
Another blame excuse from Emotiva, as usual. The Monoprice HTP-1 uses Sharc latest generation chipsets and if I recall, @Marc Alexander test unit is running full Dirac Live 2.0 multichannel with 5 Dirac Live Presets.

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post #69 of 463 Old 11-10-2019, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Another blame excuse from Emotiva, as usual. The Monoprice HTP-1 uses Sharc latest generation chipsets and if I recall, @Marc Alexander test unit is running full Dirac Live 2.0 multichannel with 5 Dirac Live Presets.
AFAIK HTP-1 is running TI, not Sharc.
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post #70 of 463 Old 11-10-2019, 03:28 PM
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Got my XMC-2 setup today and no issues so far *whew*
Running Sony x940e, Xbox One X, Fire TV Cube (Gen 2), Mede8er streaming client, 3rd party Oppo streamer, and DirecTV receiver. Just hooked up the XMC-2 in place of my Denon x4500h and all is good. Even behaving perfectly fine using Video Standby mode. Hopefully this holds up
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post #71 of 463 Old 11-11-2019, 03:51 AM
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How do you find it compares with the 4500h? I am using the the 7705 atm but really looking forward to the xmc 2.

I had the 4500 and the 7705 does sound a lot nicer
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post #72 of 463 Old 11-11-2019, 05:35 AM
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How do you find it compares with the 4500h? I am using the the 7705 atm but really looking forward to the xmc 2.

I had the 4500 and the 7705 does sound a lot nicer

Definitely better. I haven't watched any movies yet, but after dialing it in and watching football all day, just the overall clarity and detail in crowd noise/sounds alone was pretty remarkable.
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post #73 of 463 Old 11-20-2019, 10:05 AM
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Got my trade in XMC-2 on Monday and last night I got it swapped into my rack.

Having the outputs go from outside to inside instead of pairing each set of channels next to each other meant I had to reorganize all my wiring, so that took a while. Otherwise the physical install was pretty straightforward.

After firing it up, the first issue I had was I couldn't get video. After a while of fiddling, I ran into the second oddity of the arrangement of the back panel: The HDMI inputs go from 8 to 1, not 1 to 8. So instead of input 1 and 2, I have my sources on 8 and 7. That took me over 20 minutes to figure out, partly because I thought for sure it was a handshake issue, then when I swapped the output from 1 to 2 to troubleshoot, it failed to handshake again until I fully reset the unit, even after swapping back into output 1. Also, my equipment is in another room from the theater, and I have to walk all the way around the basement to get from the equipment room to the theater, so I would walk about 30 steps to the room, check something, 30 more steps to the theater, nothing on the screen, 30 more back, try something, 30 more and now blue screen... I got exercise though..

So now that I had video, I started the process of setting up the speakers. Of course, going from a D/M product to Emo is night and day for speaker setup. It's like stepping back to DOS from Windows 10, lol. Would it kill them to come up with a graphical interface? And wow it takes like 300-600 ms for any button push to register on the screen. When adjusting levels and distances, I could count my clicks and back out and then sit and watch the display count up slowly. Unfortunately, if I got too far ahead, the display would wig out and I would have to go back and forth a couple times to get it to start showing right again. But it took my inputs from the remote just fine.

Then I hit the next issue. I had my Shield set to 20 minutes to go to sleep, and since I was only using the OSD in the XMC-1, the shield was idle. I was entering distances for speakers when the Shield went to sleep and the screen went blue (no signal). I grabbed the shield remote and hit a button to wake it up, and while I could hear the clicks from the Shield menu through the speakers as I moved around, the display remained blue. It took me about 10 minutes to get a display back, and from what I could tell I had to go to a different input on the XMC-2, then wait about 20 seconds, then power off the Shield, then switch back to the shield input, and then power the shield back on for it to finally reconnect. This wasn't encouraging... Is it that hard to program it to look for a signal every second or two if there is none?

With the speakers set up and roughly level matched, I fired up my first test. My immediate impression was super low bass, which isn't abnormal, I always have to run the bass hot to really hear it, even with 6 18" subs and 18kw of power, lol. You just can't level match subs with pink noise. My next impression was that the surrounds were WAY too hot compared to the fronts. So I went and dialed all 8 surround/Atmos speakers down by about 3db. And finally, my last impression was that my mains need some major EQing to counter being behind a vinyl microperf screen. On the Marantz 7703 that I was using before, I had EQ'd the 8k+ range up about 5db to compensate, so I needed some tuning on the XMC-2. I went into the system EQ and ran up the 10k hz about 2 db, but I didn't have time to go through and set up PEQ's for the front three speakers.

Aside from the fronts sounding rather dead with so much rolloff on the highs and no compensation for it, the sound was definitely different. I got the feeling it was more distinct than the Marantz, but until it is sounding "right", I am holding off judgement on whether it is "better" or "worse".

I primarily use one source for everything - the nvidia Shield. I run Plex for movies and some TV series, almost 100% ripped from bluray and UHD bluray (about 1200 BD movies and about 100 UHD now). I run Netflix and Amazon as well as Disney+ now for added movie and TV show content, and I run YTTV for "cable". The Shield is set up to automatically switch refresh rates and color spaces, but always sends 4k no matter the source, so I tried a bunch of different content with varying refresh rates and color spaces. When switching to HDR content, the screen would flash blue for a second, but all other changes were fairly seamless. This was a good sign, and one I was worried about given the history of this generation of products with handshaking issues.

However, I found one big problem that I need to figure out a solution for: The XMC-2 autodetects when there is no audio, even for a fraction of a second, then takes 1-2 seconds to reacquire signal when sound returns. In Plex, when there is nothing to send, it doesn't send any audio, so the XMC-2 immediately detects this and switches to PCM-0. When moving around in the menus, this happens occasionally, sometimes keeping audio going between clicks, sometimes (seemingly randomly) stopping audio for a few seconds as you navigate around.

This part wasn't the bad part though. The bad part is when watching something and I fast forward 15 seconds. The XMC-2 IMMEDIATELY detects this and stops audio. The Shield is fast, so it only takes about 100ms to start playing again, but it is too late, now the XMC-2 has to spend the next 1-2 seconds figuring out what the audio stream is again. It usually starts by displaying PCM-0, then PCM-2.0, then 5.1, then finally settles in on TrueHD with Atmos. If I am skipping ahead to find something, or in the case of TV skipping ahead to avoid commercials, this happens over and over.

I looked at the manual at the audio modes, and it seems that there is no universal mode other than Auto, and I am NOT going to set it up so I have to manually select the audio mode for each type of content. Anyone have any ideas? I can't imagine Plex is the only program that doesn't send audio data when there is nothing to send, and the Marantz never once had an issue even remotely like this.

It got late last night and I was tired, so I didn't go any further. I haven't tested powering on to make sure it handshakes with the projector (which takes 40seconds to 3 minutes to power up), so I am a bit nervous about that one. I won't just power up my projector while still hot, so I couldn't test this last night. Given that the XMC-2 couldn't reacquire HDMI when it went away for 10 seconds, I'm concerned with how it will work when it doesn't have signal for over a minute...

Anyway, I plan to break out the UMIK-1 this weekend and dust off my REW skills and see if I can put together a file to set up the PEQ for the front stage. I've never done that before, so it will be interesting. If anyone has a step by step guide to building correction files in REW that can be imported into the XMC-2, I would love for you to share.
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post #74 of 463 Old 11-20-2019, 09:11 PM
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Got my trade in XMC-2 on Monday and last night I got it swapped into my rack.

Having the outputs go from outside to inside instead of pairing each set of channels next to each other meant I had to reorganize all my wiring, so that took a while. Otherwise the physical install was pretty straightforward.

After firing it up, the first issue I had was I couldn't get video. After a while of fiddling, I ran into the second oddity of the arrangement of the back panel: The HDMI inputs go from 8 to 1, not 1 to 8. So instead of input 1 and 2, I have my sources on 8 and 7. That took me over 20 minutes to figure out, partly because I thought for sure it was a handshake issue, then when I swapped the output from 1 to 2 to troubleshoot, it failed to handshake again until I fully reset the unit, even after swapping back into output 1. Also, my equipment is in another room from the theater, and I have to walk all the way around the basement to get from the equipment room to the theater, so I would walk about 30 steps to the room, check something, 30 more steps to the theater, nothing on the screen, 30 more back, try something, 30 more and now blue screen... I got exercise though..

So now that I had video, I started the process of setting up the speakers. Of course, going from a D/M product to Emo is night and day for speaker setup. It's like stepping back to DOS from Windows 10, lol. Would it kill them to come up with a graphical interface? And wow it takes like 300-600 ms for any button push to register on the screen. When adjusting levels and distances, I could count my clicks and back out and then sit and watch the display count up slowly. Unfortunately, if I got too far ahead, the display would wig out and I would have to go back and forth a couple times to get it to start showing right again. But it took my inputs from the remote just fine.

Then I hit the next issue. I had my Shield set to 20 minutes to go to sleep, and since I was only using the OSD in the XMC-1, the shield was idle. I was entering distances for speakers when the Shield went to sleep and the screen went blue (no signal). I grabbed the shield remote and hit a button to wake it up, and while I could hear the clicks from the Shield menu through the speakers as I moved around, the display remained blue. It took me about 10 minutes to get a display back, and from what I could tell I had to go to a different input on the XMC-2, then wait about 20 seconds, then power off the Shield, then switch back to the shield input, and then power the shield back on for it to finally reconnect. This wasn't encouraging... Is it that hard to program it to look for a signal every second or two if there is none?

With the speakers set up and roughly level matched, I fired up my first test. My immediate impression was super low bass, which isn't abnormal, I always have to run the bass hot to really hear it, even with 6 18" subs and 18kw of power, lol. You just can't level match subs with pink noise. My next impression was that the surrounds were WAY too hot compared to the fronts. So I went and dialed all 8 surround/Atmos speakers down by about 3db. And finally, my last impression was that my mains need some major EQing to counter being behind a vinyl microperf screen. On the Marantz 7703 that I was using before, I had EQ'd the 8k+ range up about 5db to compensate, so I needed some tuning on the XMC-2. I went into the system EQ and ran up the 10k hz about 2 db, but I didn't have time to go through and set up PEQ's for the front three speakers.

Aside from the fronts sounding rather dead with so much rolloff on the highs and no compensation for it, the sound was definitely different. I got the feeling it was more distinct than the Marantz, but until it is sounding "right", I am holding off judgement on whether it is "better" or "worse".

I primarily use one source for everything - the nvidia Shield. I run Plex for movies and some TV series, almost 100% ripped from bluray and UHD bluray (about 1200 BD movies and about 100 UHD now). I run Netflix and Amazon as well as Disney+ now for added movie and TV show content, and I run YTTV for "cable". The Shield is set up to automatically switch refresh rates and color spaces, but always sends 4k no matter the source, so I tried a bunch of different content with varying refresh rates and color spaces. When switching to HDR content, the screen would flash blue for a second, but all other changes were fairly seamless. This was a good sign, and one I was worried about given the history of this generation of products with handshaking issues.

However, I found one big problem that I need to figure out a solution for: The XMC-2 autodetects when there is no audio, even for a fraction of a second, then takes 1-2 seconds to reacquire signal when sound returns. In Plex, when there is nothing to send, it doesn't send any audio, so the XMC-2 immediately detects this and switches to PCM-0. When moving around in the menus, this happens occasionally, sometimes keeping audio going between clicks, sometimes (seemingly randomly) stopping audio for a few seconds as you navigate around.

This part wasn't the bad part though. The bad part is when watching something and I fast forward 15 seconds. The XMC-2 IMMEDIATELY detects this and stops audio. The Shield is fast, so it only takes about 100ms to start playing again, but it is too late, now the XMC-2 has to spend the next 1-2 seconds figuring out what the audio stream is again. It usually starts by displaying PCM-0, then PCM-2.0, then 5.1, then finally settles in on TrueHD with Atmos. If I am skipping ahead to find something, or in the case of TV skipping ahead to avoid commercials, this happens over and over.

I looked at the manual at the audio modes, and it seems that there is no universal mode other than Auto, and I am NOT going to set it up so I have to manually select the audio mode for each type of content. Anyone have any ideas? I can't imagine Plex is the only program that doesn't send audio data when there is nothing to send, and the Marantz never once had an issue even remotely like this.

It got late last night and I was tired, so I didn't go any further. I haven't tested powering on to make sure it handshakes with the projector (which takes 40seconds to 3 minutes to power up), so I am a bit nervous about that one. I won't just power up my projector while still hot, so I couldn't test this last night. Given that the XMC-2 couldn't reacquire HDMI when it went away for 10 seconds, I'm concerned with how it will work when it doesn't have signal for over a minute...

Anyway, I plan to break out the UMIK-1 this weekend and dust off my REW skills and see if I can put together a file to set up the PEQ for the front stage. I've never done that before, so it will be interesting. If anyone has a step by step guide to building correction files in REW that can be imported into the XMC-2, I would love for you to share.
Set up correct ammount of speakers and subs in the XMC

Get a USB thumb-drive, plug it in the XMC

Export EQ
Unplug the thumb drive
Plug it into PC
Run REW and select XMC-1 in EQ options
EQ
Save Filter settings to file
Select correct speaker/sub
OVERWRITE correct file in "filtersPreset1" folder in USB thumb drive
Plug the drive into the XMC
Import EQ Filters
Test using REW

REMEMBER: DIRECT and REFERENCE STEREO applies no EQ, and STEREO, SURROUND, etc modes apply the EQ.

Good luck
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post #75 of 463 Old 11-21-2019, 04:02 AM
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Got my trade in XMC-2 on Monday and last night I got it swapped into my rack.

Having the outputs go from outside to inside instead of pairing each set of channels next to each other meant I had to reorganize all my wiring, so that took a while. Otherwise the physical install was pretty straightforward.

After firing it up, the first issue I had was I couldn't get video. After a while of fiddling, I ran into the second oddity of the arrangement of the back panel: The HDMI inputs go from 8 to 1, not 1 to 8. So instead of input 1 and 2, I have my sources on 8 and 7. That took me over 20 minutes to figure out, partly because I thought for sure it was a handshake issue, then when I swapped the output from 1 to 2 to troubleshoot, it failed to handshake again until I fully reset the unit, even after swapping back into output 1. Also, my equipment is in another room from the theater, and I have to walk all the way around the basement to get from the equipment room to the theater, so I would walk about 30 steps to the room, check something, 30 more steps to the theater, nothing on the screen, 30 more back, try something, 30 more and now blue screen... I got exercise though..

So now that I had video, I started the process of setting up the speakers. Of course, going from a D/M product to Emo is night and day for speaker setup. It's like stepping back to DOS from Windows 10, lol. Would it kill them to come up with a graphical interface? And wow it takes like 300-600 ms for any button push to register on the screen. When adjusting levels and distances, I could count my clicks and back out and then sit and watch the display count up slowly. Unfortunately, if I got too far ahead, the display would wig out and I would have to go back and forth a couple times to get it to start showing right again. But it took my inputs from the remote just fine.

Then I hit the next issue. I had my Shield set to 20 minutes to go to sleep, and since I was only using the OSD in the XMC-1, the shield was idle. I was entering distances for speakers when the Shield went to sleep and the screen went blue (no signal). I grabbed the shield remote and hit a button to wake it up, and while I could hear the clicks from the Shield menu through the speakers as I moved around, the display remained blue. It took me about 10 minutes to get a display back, and from what I could tell I had to go to a different input on the XMC-2, then wait about 20 seconds, then power off the Shield, then switch back to the shield input, and then power the shield back on for it to finally reconnect. This wasn't encouraging... Is it that hard to program it to look for a signal every second or two if there is none?

With the speakers set up and roughly level matched, I fired up my first test. My immediate impression was super low bass, which isn't abnormal, I always have to run the bass hot to really hear it, even with 6 18" subs and 18kw of power, lol. You just can't level match subs with pink noise. My next impression was that the surrounds were WAY too hot compared to the fronts. So I went and dialed all 8 surround/Atmos speakers down by about 3db. And finally, my last impression was that my mains need some major EQing to counter being behind a vinyl microperf screen. On the Marantz 7703 that I was using before, I had EQ'd the 8k+ range up about 5db to compensate, so I needed some tuning on the XMC-2. I went into the system EQ and ran up the 10k hz about 2 db, but I didn't have time to go through and set up PEQ's for the front three speakers.

Aside from the fronts sounding rather dead with so much rolloff on the highs and no compensation for it, the sound was definitely different. I got the feeling it was more distinct than the Marantz, but until it is sounding "right", I am holding off judgement on whether it is "better" or "worse".

I primarily use one source for everything - the nvidia Shield. I run Plex for movies and some TV series, almost 100% ripped from bluray and UHD bluray (about 1200 BD movies and about 100 UHD now). I run Netflix and Amazon as well as Disney+ now for added movie and TV show content, and I run YTTV for "cable". The Shield is set up to automatically switch refresh rates and color spaces, but always sends 4k no matter the source, so I tried a bunch of different content with varying refresh rates and color spaces. When switching to HDR content, the screen would flash blue for a second, but all other changes were fairly seamless. This was a good sign, and one I was worried about given the history of this generation of products with handshaking issues.

However, I found one big problem that I need to figure out a solution for: The XMC-2 autodetects when there is no audio, even for a fraction of a second, then takes 1-2 seconds to reacquire signal when sound returns. In Plex, when there is nothing to send, it doesn't send any audio, so the XMC-2 immediately detects this and switches to PCM-0. When moving around in the menus, this happens occasionally, sometimes keeping audio going between clicks, sometimes (seemingly randomly) stopping audio for a few seconds as you navigate around.

This part wasn't the bad part though. The bad part is when watching something and I fast forward 15 seconds. The XMC-2 IMMEDIATELY detects this and stops audio. The Shield is fast, so it only takes about 100ms to start playing again, but it is too late, now the XMC-2 has to spend the next 1-2 seconds figuring out what the audio stream is again. It usually starts by displaying PCM-0, then PCM-2.0, then 5.1, then finally settles in on TrueHD with Atmos. If I am skipping ahead to find something, or in the case of TV skipping ahead to avoid commercials, this happens over and over.

I looked at the manual at the audio modes, and it seems that there is no universal mode other than Auto, and I am NOT going to set it up so I have to manually select the audio mode for each type of content. Anyone have any ideas? I can't imagine Plex is the only program that doesn't send audio data when there is nothing to send, and the Marantz never once had an issue even remotely like this.

It got late last night and I was tired, so I didn't go any further. I haven't tested powering on to make sure it handshakes with the projector (which takes 40seconds to 3 minutes to power up), so I am a bit nervous about that one. I won't just power up my projector while still hot, so I couldn't test this last night. Given that the XMC-2 couldn't reacquire HDMI when it went away for 10 seconds, I'm concerned with how it will work when it doesn't have signal for over a minute...

Anyway, I plan to break out the UMIK-1 this weekend and dust off my REW skills and see if I can put together a file to set up the PEQ for the front stage. I've never done that before, so it will be interesting. If anyone has a step by step guide to building correction files in REW that can be imported into the XMC-2, I would love for you to share.
Best place to start for REW is AustinJerry's guide https://www.minidsp.com/support/comm...by-austinjerry

Article specifically on the Equalizer and saving PEQ settings https://mehlau.net/audio/room-correction-peq/index.html

And more https://www.minidsp.com/applications...uning-with-rew

The Equalizer in REW has a selection for XMC-1 PEQ file format. Hopefully XMC-2 reads the same file.

Last edited by lombarmj; 11-21-2019 at 04:48 AM.
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post #76 of 463 Old 11-21-2019, 11:05 AM
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The latest firmware for the XMC-2 is 1.7
http://emotivalounge.proboards.com/b...rmc-1-firmware
If you read the notes it includes the XMC-2 as well.
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post #77 of 463 Old 11-21-2019, 02:38 PM
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The latest firmware for the XMC-2 is 1.7
http://emotivalounge.proboards.com/b...rmc-1-firmware
If you read the notes it includes the XMC-2 as well.
Is the RMC-1 firmware used in the XMC-2?
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post #78 of 463 Old 11-21-2019, 05:05 PM
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Is the RMC-1 firmware used in the XMC-2?
Yes the XMC-1, RMC-1 and the RMC-1L all use the same firmware.
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post #79 of 463 Old 11-22-2019, 12:33 AM
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Anychance of it having DIRAC?
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post #80 of 463 Old 11-22-2019, 04:06 AM
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Anychance of it having DIRAC?
Nope. Not yet. Early 2020 is the new target date for Dirac
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post #81 of 463 Old 11-22-2019, 06:26 AM
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Anychance of it having DIRAC?
No

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post #82 of 463 Old 11-22-2019, 10:07 AM
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Yesterday my girlfriend called because she was trying to watch a movie and there was no audio. After fiddling around for about 5 minutes, audio finally came on and she was able to watch the movie. This is the first day after installing the XMC-2, and not a good sign.

So last night I fired everything up and in the menus I had audio. I then started a movie in Plex and no audio. I fast forwarded a few times and started seeing the OSD come up with something other than PCM 0.0, but still no audio. Another few tries and it finally locked into DTS MA 5.1 and audio came on. The night before I had the same issue with 3D movies not playing audio, but I thought maybe that had to do with the 3D MKV's. Unfortunately it seemed to be doing it for much more content.

On top of this, when I did have audio and I fast forwarded, even with the audio only cutting out from the source for a fraction of a second, it took a full 5 seconds for audio to come back on.

I was ready to box it up right then. This is a total deal breaker for me, and it was either going back or getting sold outright.

But I decided to try the new firmware first, even though the behavior I was experiencing with the audio going in and out didn't appear to be addressed in the patch notes.

It took about 4 minutes to install. I first backed up my settings just in case.

I watched it for the first 3 minutes, then looked away for a minute and when I looked back the unit was in standby mode. I pressed the power button to wake it up but nothing happened. So I gave it 5 more minutes and tried again. This time it came on.

But, I had no display. It was outputting to the projector but showing the input was 1080p, and I don't have a 1080p source. So I followed the instructions to reset all sources, unplug them, disconnect cables, wait 10 minutes, reconnect it all, and fire it up.

And now I had no signal at all. The front of the unit was showing 2160p, so it was now seeing the Shield source, but now I had no signal on the projector (blue screen). I unplugged the HDMI output, switched sources, then plugged it back in and switched back to my HDMI 8 input, and it came on!

I fired up the movie that was giving me problems, and audio came on instantly. On top of this, if I fast forward 15 seconds in Plex, the audio didn't disconnect, as long as it only took a couple hundred milliseconds to start playing again. If I hit the fast forward a few times where I had no audio for over about a half second, then it still disconnected audio, but it only took about a second for it to reconnect. And most times it did this, it didn't bring up the OSD to show the source that was changing.

So all in all, a MAJOR improvement in this area, although not perfect like the Marantz was. I think there is room for improvement, but it is now good enough for me not to want to return or sell it. Of course, we will have to see if this behavior continues or if it regresses. It is completely unacceptable to fire up content and not have audio, especially when that content never even had the slightest glitch with the Marantz processor and all other factors were identical.

After getting the display to come up last night, the experience throughout several TV shows and movies was refreshingly good. I spent about 2 hours going through different content and it handled it all as good as can be expected. I did have to turn back on the auto lip sync function as I was seeing some lag there, but once on it was perfect.

This weekend I will be pulling the screen down to install a little bit of acoustic treatment, then I will set up my laptop and UMIK-1 and start working on a filter to get the speakers sounding good again. In a lot of content I now notice how muffled the front speakers sound behind the screen, something I didn't notice before on the Marantz. My guess is this is because the surrounds all sound so much clearer, I am noticing the rolloff on the high end from the front mains.
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post #83 of 463 Old 11-23-2019, 12:36 PM
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For this interested in making the jump to an XMC-2, mine is now listed in classifieds. It actually has worked without issue for me and sounds great, but I decided I needed the extra cash for a few outstanding medical bills that showed up recently so have gone with a deeply discounted Arcam.
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post #84 of 463 Old 11-25-2019, 11:59 AM
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Spent some time working on REW with the XMC-2 to get it EQ'd. It doesn't work very well. It seems that any filters that overlap multiply in a way that REW doesn't predict. I'm not sure if this is an issue with the XMC-2 using the XMC-1 settings in REW, or if it is something else.

My mains are a bit hot on the mid bass range (DIYSG Titan LX's), and of course that range is very susceptible to room modes and other audio issues, so REW adds quite a few filters to that range to try to flatten it out. The result after loading the filters into the XMC-2 is those areas dropped by about 2x what the prediction was. So instead of being about 10db hot in the 100-300hz range, I ended up being about 10db too low in that range, killing my midbass and making everything sound pretty bad.

It did an excellent job with 300hz and up, bringing it within +/- 4db across the whole range. The exception there is the rolloff at the high end due to the screen. The rolloff starts at about 15k and drops 10db by 20k, and 10db is too much of a change for the settings in REW (maxes at 6db), and truthfully I wouldn't want a +10db filter at 20k, so I had to manually add a filter for that, bumping up at 20k by about 3-4 db (I played around with it, I think I settled in at +3db).

In retrospect, I should have kept all the filters from 300hz and up, and then manually worked over the under 300hz, but after being frustrated with it, along with glitches in the XMC-2 using the USB stick and with the laptop HDMI, I just scrapped it all and did it by hand in REW, then imported the filters. I got the mid-bass region a lot closer than REW did, but there are a couple points on each speaker where it goes more than 5db+/-. I may go back and work it over a little more, but the truth is it is close enough.

Aside from the filters not responding as predicted in REW, here are the issues I ran into:
1 - You can plug in a USB and import filters exactly 2 times, and on the third, it will no longer find the files without a reboot of the XMC-2. It detects the USB, it just won't find the files. This was consistent. I plugged in to export, then after measuring the front left speaker and generating filters, I plugged in the USB and imported into the XMC-2. I then made changes and plugged it in to the XMC-2 again, no problem. Then I made more changes and plugged in and now it said no .emo files found. It went from no USB to no .emo files found, so it saw a drive but couldn't see the files. I rebooted and it worked again. Next day I did the same thing. I reset all filters, then went to REW, generated all new filters, inserted the USB, and it worked fine. Then I reworked the filters, plugged in the USB, and imported with no problem. Then I removed and made one more set of changes, and again, no .emo files found.

2 - Typical issues with HDMI and sound with the laptop. First, I had no sound at all, but had video. I was using an odd resolution on the laptop and that seemed to be causing it, so I switched to a 720p resolution, and now I had sound. In REW I loaded up the ASIO drivers so I could do specific channels, and everything was good. But when I hit issue 1 with the XMC-2 USB stick, I had to reboot the XMC-2 unit, and once it came back on I had video but no audio again. It took a bunch of fiddling to get it to work again, and then once it worked, the ASIO driver only worked for left and right, and it took a bunch of fiddling to get center to work again..

Overall it took me an extra couple hours between two days of working on this to get things set up because of the combination of these two issues. This was frustrating, and was compounded by my equipment being located in another room about 30 steps from the theater room door, so a lot of back and forth.

On day 2, I set up the mic and laptop in the theater, then sat in my office and remote desktop'ed into the laptop so I could sit in comfort and work on this. Unfortunately, when in remote desktop, the laptop display doesn't show what you are seeing, nor does it play on the screen. Plus HDMI audio works off your desktop computer, not the laptop, so this caused some issues. Then the laptop display would sleep, which would kill audio on the HDMI too, and then I was back to issue 2 with trying to get it all working again. Very frustrating.

I also have no way to send sound to the surrounds or Atmos speakers to EQ them (laptop only supports 7.1, and ASIO drivers work even worse with the XMC-2 for surround channels).

So after a lot of painful work, it is sounding better, but now I need to work on the subs more, and the transition from subs to mains, which is ugly right now.

Other than this, I found another big issue. I can't seem to play stereo music from the Shield ever since updating the XMC-2 firmware. I first tried to play music in Plex, and I get no audio, but the clicks from the navigation still come through. Then I loaded Pandora and that doesn't work either. Pandora doesn't even play, except for a split second if I hit play a few times. Very odd. Everything else seems to be good, and I can play multi-channel music through things like youtube music.
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post #85 of 463 Old 12-12-2019, 10:53 PM
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Thanks for your feedback. I decided to reset filters each time before loading and thus had no issues with the load process.

I wasn’t sure how much PEQ corrections is optimal so I only went to 500hz. I don’t know if I should go all the way to 20000hz but since I ran REW for each speaker i guess I can just try it out.

Also, I’m not sure if this makes sense but I took the time to hook up the 4 ceiling speakers to FL, FR & SL & SR and then ran REW. I figured this would allow me to at least do some PEQ on the ceiling speakers.

How all these individual changes interact, I think unfortunately is the limitation of REW - at least for me. I’ll stop here. I may want to tweak the subs a little more but it sounds better than before.

I don’t have any real issues except when I turn everything on and go straight to movies. My screen is green and I need to change to watch Apple TV and back. It’s a small issue. Otherwise, it’s just sitting back and enjoying the sound.
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post #86 of 463 Old 12-22-2019, 11:45 PM
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It truly bums me out to post this but mine is going back. I’ve been using it for approximately 2 months now and I am sick of having to switch inputs and power cycle equipment just to get the audio and video to work at the same time. It had that problem when I first hooked it up but after a couple of hard power cycles it seemed to clear it up. Well it started happening again a couple weeks ago and it is completely unacceptable. I updated the firmware last night and it was working fine again so I was happy and relieved but tonight I came down to watch a movie and sure enough, I power up everything and I’ve got video and no audio with my Oppo. I’m done. When I turn my equipment on I expect it to work properly. I have owned Yamaha receivers and now a pre/pro and have never had any problems with them. This bull**** with the Emo is just not worth my time and aggravation.
I am really curious as to what the problem is, switching between inputs seems like a really basic function to me. I can’t understand why it continually fails at it. Christ, just design that portion like everyone else does and go with it. Maybe someone can explain it to me.
I am going to lose and miss the superior sound quality on 2 channel stereo for my vinyl listening but the Yamaha sounds great in that mode, just not quite as good as the XMC-2. There’s always a trade off it seems but this is not one I’m willing to make.
I’m really glad I held on to my CX-A5200. I pulled the XMC-2 out of the rack and put the Yamaha back in. Took about 5 minutes and what do you know, it works perfectly! I had kept it plugged in so all of the calibrated distance, EQ and level settings were still there.
As I said, it bums me out but it has to be done...
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Last edited by jeffgun; 12-23-2019 at 12:06 AM.
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post #87 of 463 Old 12-23-2019, 12:02 AM
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I do have an annoying workaround when I watch movies but it’s almost a process. When I hit watch movies the input to my Sony 4K Blu-ray player doesn’t work 10 out of 10 times. I have to switch to Apple TV 4K then switch back. This also works 10 out of 10 times. Something happened with firmware 1.7.

Also if I don’t get sound from a movie, I change the language to Spanish then back to English.

I understand if people don’t want to deal with this but it’s a quick little workaround and outside of this it’s pretty foolproof. Their issues are repeatable so I’m hoping they are working on a fix but I haven’t complained to them yet.
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post #88 of 463 Old 12-23-2019, 12:20 AM
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I do have an annoying workaround when I watch movies but it’s almost a process. When I hit watch movies the input to my Sony 4K Blu-ray player doesn’t work 10 out of 10 times. I have to switch to Apple TV 4K then switch back. This also works 10 out of 10 times. Something happened with firmware 1.7.

Also if I don’t get sound from a movie, I change the language to Spanish then back to English.

I understand if people don’t want to deal with this but it’s a quick little workaround and outside of this it’s pretty foolproof. Their issues are repeatable so I’m hoping they are working on a fix but I haven’t complained to them yet.
Yep, that’s what I was doing but I switched to the input I had the DIRECTV plugged into and back or vice versa if I was having the same problem with the DIRECTV. It worked 8 out of 10 times but it just got to the point where that was aggravating enough that it became a deal breaker for me. I even had the problem a few times when I switched to the balanced analog input that I have my Rega TT plugged into. I really, really wanted it to work because I like the unit but enough is enough for me.
Best of luck to you and everyone else who is having similar problems. I truly hope they get it figured out and get everyone dialed in!
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post #89 of 463 Old 12-23-2019, 04:02 AM
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Yep, that’s what I was doing but I switched to the input I had the DIRECTV plugged into and back or vice versa if I was having the same problem with the DIRECTV. It worked 8 out of 10 times but it just got to the point where that was aggravating enough that it became a deal breaker for me. I even had the problem a few times when I switched to the balanced analog input that I have my Rega TT plugged into. I really, really wanted it to work because I like the unit but enough is enough for me.
Best of luck to you and everyone else who is having similar problems. I truly hope they get it figured out and get everyone dialed in!


Little things like this are dealbreakers for me. It’s not a problem for me to figure out what’s happening and switch inputs, but my wife and kids can’t and results in “daaaaaaad” calls all the time
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post #90 of 463 Old 12-23-2019, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffgun View Post
Yep, that’️s what I was doing but I switched to the input I had the DIRECTV plugged into and back or vice versa if I was having the same problem with the DIRECTV. It worked 8 out of 10 times but it just got to the point where that was aggravating enough that it became a deal breaker for me. I even had the problem a few times when I switched to the balanced analog input that I have my Rega TT plugged into. I really, really wanted it to work because I like the unit but enough is enough for me.
Best of luck to you and everyone else who is having similar problems. I truly hope they get it figured out and get everyone dialed in!


Little things like this are dealbreakers for me. It’️s not a problem for me to figure out what’️s happening and switch inputs, but my wife and kids can’️t and results in “daaaaaaad” calls all the time
Totally understand.

Just based on this chat I realized I can program the workaround in my Harmony. With 15 second delay steps in between I added steps to switch inputs from 3 (Movie) back to 2 (ATV4K) then back to 3 again. Seems to be working
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