Simplified REW Setup and Use (USB Mic & HDMI Connection) Including Measurement Techniques and How To Interpret Graphs - Page 977 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #29281 of 29322 Old 05-12-2020, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
I was comparing actual measurements with the result from AT. I measured the front two subs, then the rear two subs, and then applied a 5.6ms delay to both rear subs and measured all four subs together. To compare, I took the first two measurements, added the 5.6ms delay using AT, and compared the AT result with the measured result, which is what I showed in the post. Does that answer the question?
Yes. I am interested to know whether the tool can be useful with more than two subs. So thank you for the data.

After you set up the AT tool, but before setting the delay to rear sum measurements, did that FR look like the unaligned measurement? I think correlation here has to be good for adjusted or aligned efforts to correlate.

Out of curiosity, did you adjust the delay to see how FR changed with more or less delay? I saw in intervening posts, that 5.6ms value was from physical measurement. I know that should work, but my experience was different.

In my small room roughly 12x10x9 distance delta suggests a delay ~4.89ms, but a longer delay at (11-13.5ms) yields a better FR below 100 Hz. Being able to quickly scan a variety of delay setting effects is what I think is a strength of the tool.

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post #29282 of 29322 Old 05-12-2020, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by candor View Post
Yes. I am interested to know whether the tool can be useful with more than two subs. So thank you for the data.

After you set up the AT tool, but before setting the delay to rear sum measurements, did that FR look like the unaligned measurement? I think correlation here has to be good for adjusted or aligned efforts to correlate.

Out of curiosity, did you adjust the delay to see how FR changed with more or less delay? I saw in intervening posts, that 5.6ms value was from physical measurement. I know that should work, but my experience was different.

In my small room roughly 12x10x9 distance delta suggests a delay ~4.89ms, but a longer delay at (11-13.5ms) yields a better FR below 100 Hz. Being able to quickly scan a variety of delay setting effects is what I think is a strength of the tool.
The 5.6ms delay came from inspecting the impulse response measurements, not a physical distance measurement. This approach is covered in the REW guide linked in my sig. The potential advantage in using the AT tool is that you can use it to predict the effect on frequency response of different sub placements without actually having to move the subs. In my case, I was working backwards. The sub positioning was already optimized, and I was validating whether the AT would come up with the same result. As shown in my post, it was pretty darn close.
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post #29283 of 29322 Old 05-13-2020, 08:48 AM
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rta in rew question

hey folks, so i'm using the rta function in rew. Can someone explain what those three numbers are? Thanks!
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post #29284 of 29322 Old 05-13-2020, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
The 5.6ms delay came from inspecting the impulse response measurements, not a physical distance measurement. This approach is covered in the REW guide linked in my sig. The potential advantage in using the AT tool is that you can use it to predict the effect on frequency response of different sub placements without actually having to move the subs. In my case, I was working backwards. The sub positioning was already optimized, and I was validating whether the AT would come up with the same result. As shown in my post, it was pretty darn close.
Bit confused that you say a potential advantage is predicting the effect on FR for different sub placements w/o moving the subs. I think you need measurements of subs to use tool. I think the impulse response data is needed for the AT to do its thing. Would agree if had measurements from all potential locations you use tool to evaluate different positions.

I realize that aligning impulse response so the sub(s) are functioning together is the alignment goal. I've read about doing it but lacked confidence that I understood. That was why I was interested in learning how to use alignment tool (a hoped for easier way to get it right).

From my experimenting with tool for my situation, I observed that there appeared to be multiple delays that produced a satisfactory FR. I ended up aiming to get as much output at 30 hz with minimal dips 50-100 hz (knowing mains have dips in 80-100 hz).

The AT tool features includes option to align at cursor. For example, In 2nd chart I put cursor at 49.1 hz dip and clicked. The aligned FR is in chart 2. In my case knowing 30 hz is weak put cursor at 30 hz and clicked. The resulting alignment is chart 3.

When I posted the data earlier didn't make it easy to see results (only supplied zipped MDAT). The other 4 charts are FR and Impulse overlays comparing AT generated and actual measurements from the data set in previous post.

From my experimenting I trust the AT tool to identify a possible outcome that could be achieved. My impression is there are multiple alignment options (delays in this case) that can work. The AT tool lets you consider them. Maybe even make a choice that helps with another issue in one's audio reality. I think its a viable option for hobbyist to use.

Another use for AT is to pick an appropriate tool with enough delay. I didn't do that. Fortunately, I bought the MiniDSP 2x4HD for other reason as the MiniDSP 2x4 max delay is 7.5 ms, which wouldn't be enough in my case.
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post #29285 of 29322 Old 05-15-2020, 07:40 AM
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Hey guys I’m using the impulse response to set the distances on my Diysg speakers. In doing so it seems that the center speaker is out of phase. I checked all the wiring to confirm that the wires are not crossed. Am I reading this correctly is the speaker actually out of phased meaning the + and - is likely swapped somewhere?





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post #29286 of 29322 Old 05-15-2020, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
Hey guys I’m using the impulse response to set the distances on my Diysg speakers. In doing so it seems that the center speaker is out of phase. I checked all the wiring to confirm that the wires are not crossed. Am I reading this correctly is the speaker actually out of phased meaning the + and - is likely swapped somewhere?


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Looks that way.
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post #29287 of 29322 Old 05-16-2020, 07:37 PM
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would you be able to help me eliminate my null with combined subwoofers? My L and R subs separately don't seem to have a big null issue but together they do.


I have an denon AVR-x3500h receiver with independent dual sub distance control. the current distances for each are 11.5' as per the autocalibration.


See attached.
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Front: Polk S55
Center: Polk S30
Rear: Polk S10
Sub: P̶L̶-̶2̶0̶0̶I̶I̶ (̶2̶)̶ ̶F̶V̶X̶1̶2̶ V1812
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post #29288 of 29322 Old 05-16-2020, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badtlc View Post
would you be able to help me eliminate my null with combined subwoofers? My L and R subs separately don't seem to have a big null issue but together they do.


I have an denon AVR-x3500h receiver with independent dual sub distance control. the current distances for each are 11.5' as per the autocalibration.


See attached.
Check sub-to-sub time alignment using the REW impulse response. See “Checking Sub Alignment using REW Impulse Response Measurement“ starting on page 23 of the 2x4 guide linked in my sig.
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post #29289 of 29322 Old 05-16-2020, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
Check sub-to-sub time alignment using the REW impulse response. See “Checking Sub Alignment using REW Impulse Response Measurement“ starting on page 23 of the 2x4 guide linked in my sig.

mine doesn't quite look like your example. not sure how to interpret it. any suggestions?
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Front: Polk S55
Center: Polk S30
Rear: Polk S10
Sub: P̶L̶-̶2̶0̶0̶I̶I̶ (̶2̶)̶ ̶F̶V̶X̶1̶2̶ V1812
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post #29290 of 29322 Old 05-16-2020, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badtlc View Post
mine doesn't quite look like your example. not sure how to interpret it. any suggestions?
It looks exactly like my example, and is showing the subs as being in good time alignment and in phase. Next step would be to try some different sub positions.
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post #29291 of 29322 Old 05-17-2020, 08:08 AM
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Hi AJ et al.!

I have looked at some of the posts on this thread and have some questions, please. I am trying to decide on several speaker options, some of which I have in hand as well as an aver or prepare HtP-1, for my basement 17X14 by approx. 7.5 feet room. I went into the sim on my version of REW but don't see a way to add 16 channels, if that even maked sense for me. Is there a method for me to measure my room that can be used ahead of speaker in wall installation, which is a big step? I have several Apple products, my main is a Mac Book pro 10.10.5 with REW 5-13. I have several mics, all the way from Monoprice to Neumann U87. I have iPad Pro IOS and iPad 7th gen A10 Fusion chip A10.3" and an iPad Pro 12.9" running 13.3.

I have a new basement Theater room approx. 17' X 14'X avg. 7.75'H, with MLP either in a row of four theatre seats at 14-15' or a beanbag style single chain at 10-11' FROM SCREEN. Approx. 1,950cubic feet-lotta irregular headroom HVAC , etc.

I have two wisdom in wall https://www.wisdomaudio.com/products/l75i/ (with SC-1)which I have used in previous theaters as L &R biamped, but now have two DCM Time Windows as L & R https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_li...e-window.shtml

I Hve two Salk Ht3 speakers with back ports, as sides, but I think either the Time Windows, Wisdoms or Salks will be L & R PhNTOM CENTER), while the sides will be in wall Wisdom P6i https://www.wisdomaudio.com/products/p6i/ new in box

I have an old Velodyne FSR15 sub and two Widom in wall S90i subs https://www.wisdomaudio.com/products/s90i/ new in box

I also have three Martin Logan Vanquish ceiling speakers (one still NIB)

I was planning on maybe getting 3 Martin Loganhttps://nationwidestereo.com/product/martin-logan-electromotion-r-ceiling-8-inch-speaker/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwzN71BRCOARIsAF8pjfhfq52EXiYCnSkCmY2 CWcVsHZt_3XdRtSAKowVXSXvxEm81PJ91v48aAtVEEALw_wcB speakers for additional in ceiling due to joists being 10.5" apart, but don't know if the Vanquish can hang below the joists(no hard ceiling planningon black fabric) or if sound bleed is a non starter.

As an alternative, the 8inch ML will fir in beween joists or I could get the Klipsch https://www.klipsch.com/products/rp-...und-speakerfor optional in ceiling and on/in wall locations. This I know is difficult, but trying to get gi=uidance before I cut into the sheet rock etc..

And using two of the Pradigm L, R & Center, AS REAR SPEAKERS. THE ROOM IS FRAMED IN 2X6 METAL and I mounted the JVC rs 500 projector back of or to the sheetrock painted wall 124"wide 16X9 .

I also have 6 Realtraps Bass traps-4 for corner and 2 designed for 1st reflection points.

Seating 4 theatre recliners and one or two bean bag style chair 11' and 114-15' from screen.

Running a Sherwood rs972 (haven't run the Trinnov option yet but liked it a lot in years gone by BTW, I have a 7.1 Meridian suite back on the 90's, with 5 of the speakers mounte in sights, so sort of got used to that idea. Also have a Halo A51 for biamping the wisdom L & R if I install those, or just as a 5 channel amp. I do have anther Sherwood AVR that I could use as spare amps.

Installing two in wall Wisdom subs, in wall Wisdom Sage speakers (L&R flanking the screen 124"wide, near corners), In wall Wisdom side speakers s a fair bit of work and may not be the best option. No way to put them on the wall BTW. Any advice much appreciated.

Thank you very much

FURY
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post #29292 of 29322 Old 05-17-2020, 08:48 AM
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This thread focuses on measurements of existing setups, not on recommendations for new HT builds. There are HT threads here where it would be more appropriate for you to get answers to these types of questions.
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post #29293 of 29322 Old 05-17-2020, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
Hey guys I’m using the impulse response to set the distances on my Diysg speakers. In doing so it seems that the center speaker is out of phase. I checked all the wiring to confirm that the wires are not crossed. Am I reading this correctly is the speaker actually out of phased meaning the + and - is likely swapped somewhere?





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I had the same problem after I built my DIYSG 1099s with the CC, my wiring on the outside binding post were not crossed but upon further investigation I did indeed have the wires crossed on the inside posts, I just wired the outputs correctly from the XO board and all was fixed, it's worth a shot to check that if you have easy access, I don't know what speakers you have but you could try the nine volt battery test and observe driver excursion direction in or out........good luck
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post #29294 of 29322 Old 05-17-2020, 03:00 PM
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Thoughts on these measurements? I thought I would try adding the LFE signal to both my front Triton reference and my Triton 2 wides.

Measurements look better when I don't run the LFE signal to either. It sounds that way too. The subs in the Tritons, at least to my ears and what I was listening to, were very "boomy" not a lot of detail to them.

I've already had the room treated, subs are going to stay pretty much where they are minus a couple of inches, center has been time aligned along with the subs to remove some nasty dips.

When I ran REW after Dirac, I also had each of the subs SPL matched to a around 5 db's past the mains. With the graphs I have now, I could probably level match them to the mains and leave it as is.

Thanks!

measurements
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post #29295 of 29322 Old 05-17-2020, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badtlc View Post
would you be able to help me eliminate my null with combined subwoofers? My L and R subs separately don't seem to have a big null issue but together they do.

I have an denon AVR-x3500h receiver with independent dual sub distance control. the current distances for each are 11.5' as per the autocalibration.
See attached.
Another thing you could try is to use the REW alignment tool to evaluate whether a different delay between the subs could favorably alter your FR. It wouldn't cost anything. Your sub measurements need to have been made with acoustical timing if you used a USB mic.

In REW, load MDAT with your separate sub measurements. Go to All SPL>Controls>click the Alignment Tool button. In the tool dialogue box select the each sub measurement. The if one is closer, click its delay handle and use arrow keys to slowly increase the delay observing how the FR changes.

If you did find a delay or delays that improved FR, then the issue is how to implement it. You want to set it and then present the combined subs to the AVR for Auto EQ step. Most would put the subs on one channel and use MiniDSP or MiniDSP HD (or similar DSP product) to set the delay between them.

The AVR sub channel delay is useful fine tune or adjust timing between subs and speakers. Where your AVR has two sub channels, you might use it to test how a delay would measure in REW (see if it generates a FR close to what AT predicted). But to implement and use AutoEQ in AVR you'd want a separate device.

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post #29296 of 29322 Old 05-17-2020, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sthompson View Post
Thoughts on these measurements? I thought I would try adding the LFE signal to both my front Triton reference and my Triton 2 wides.

Measurements look better when I don't run the LFE signal to either. It sounds that way too. The subs in the Tritons, at least to my ears and what I was listening to, were very "boomy" not a lot of detail to them.

I've already had the room treated, subs are going to stay pretty much where they are minus a couple of inches, center has been time aligned along with the subs to remove some nasty dips.

When I ran REW after Dirac, I also had each of the subs SPL matched to a around 5 db's past the mains. With the graphs I have now, I could probably level match them to the mains and leave it as is.

Thanks!
Am I correct in assuming "YLFE" means with LFE to the mains, and "NLFE" means no LFE to the mains?

I am seeing a significant peak at 53Hz that seems to be common to Left, Right and Center speakers. The low frequency response is down ~15dB from 53Hz to 28Hz, and down ~23dB from 53Hz to 100Hz. This behavior is peculiar--any idea why we are seeing that peak? And the peak of 112dB at 53Hz is a whopping 25dB bass boost. Is that your intent?

Response above 200Hz seems to be consistently good across all speakers.
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post #29297 of 29322 Old 05-17-2020, 06:18 PM
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You are correct - YLFE is LFE being directed to the mains and the wides.

That large peak around 53hz is the two Turbosound Iq18b's that I have behind the main listening positions to supplement mid-bass. I probably could tone that down a bit
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post #29298 of 29322 Old 05-17-2020, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sthompson View Post
You are correct - YLFE is LFE being directed to the mains and the wides.

That large peak around 53hz is the two Turbosound Iq18b's that I have behind the main listening positions to supplement mid-bass. I probably could tone that down a bit
The objective should be a reasonably flat bass response.
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post #29299 of 29322 Old 05-17-2020, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
The objective should be a reasonably flat bass response.

Yep I was missing out on the mid bass slam and went a little too far. I’d rather have it then not though.


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post #29300 of 29322 Old 05-18-2020, 05:39 AM
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Slightly off topic question but thought someone might be able to answer. I’m using a late 2013 imac with a thunderbolt to hdmi adapter. But more often than not it doesn’t work when connected and I need to reboot the computer and sometimes the AVR to try and get it to work. I wanted to know if these connections are just normally hit or miss or is it most likely the adapter causing the issue. Would a better adapter make it work regularly? Or maybe a thunderbolt to hdmi cable as opposed to the adapter? I think it’s an insignia brand from Best Buy.
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post #29301 of 29322 Old 05-18-2020, 05:55 AM
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Hi first time here.. I have a pb12plus and wanted to buy another one for dual set up. Unfortunately its phaseout and its hard to find another one in my place, Philippines. On the FB Marketplace, someone is selling PSA XS30se (sealed).. i know mixing ported and seAled is not ideal and different driver size...

but what if i use miniDSP-umik-1, will i be able to integrate them well? will it solves the mixing problem?

thanks!


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post #29302 of 29322 Old 05-18-2020, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
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Slightly off topic question but thought someone might be able to answer. I’m using a late 2013 imac with a thunderbolt to hdmi adapter. But more often than not it doesn’t work when connected and I need to reboot the computer and sometimes the AVR to try and get it to work. I wanted to know if these connections are just normally hit or miss or is it most likely the adapter causing the issue. Would a better adapter make it work regularly? Or maybe a thunderbolt to hdmi cable as opposed to the adapter? I think it’s an insignia brand from Best Buy.
FWIW, I use am early 2013 MBPro (Catalina), and never have any issues with the HDMI out, so I would think the issue is most likely your current adapter.

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post #29303 of 29322 Old 05-23-2020, 11:01 PM
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For the last few days been messing with rew and my reading are allover the place. The picture attached the red is the mains and subwoofer. The green is just the sub and the blue is just the speakers. I am kind of a newbie when it comes to using rew wondering how I could go about getting better integration between the mains and the subs
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post #29304 of 29322 Old 05-24-2020, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by logan456 View Post
For the last few days been messing with rew and my reading are allover the place. The picture attached the red is the mains and subwoofer. The green is just the sub and the blue is just the speakers. I am kind of a newbie when it comes to using rew wondering how I could go about getting better integration between the mains and the subs
Measurements look fine to me, they do not seem to be all over to place. When looking at the FR at this low range you don't want any smoothing engaged, which you have on the sub.
To find the best integration between the mains and the subs, first is to measure with different crossovers and see what is the smoothest FR, by looking at the graph the starting point would be 90hz and above.

You can tweak this further by increasing the distance in the sub to phase align the transition even better to the main. When you say main is this the on of the L/R speakers or the center speaker. It's best to choose what speaker you want to phase align, so for example if movies is your main content the center is the speaker to concentrate on, or for music the L/R is what to concentrate on.
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post #29305 of 29322 Old 05-24-2020, 04:51 AM
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Hi All,

Hope everyone has been keeping safe and well. Last night I carried out some REW measurements and have tried to align my subs to each other the best I can.

I have 6 x 18" sub woofers (2 x behind my AT Screen between my L C R, 2 x on the left side wall almost half way into the room and 2 x behind my seating area as a near field).

I have 2 x inuke NX6000 (non DSP) and 1 x NX6000D (with DSP). The 2 x subs behind my screen are connected as Stereo on the inuke NX6000D and have their own outputs on the miniDSP 2x4HD as:

Output 1 for the Left Screen Sub
Output 2 for the Right Screen Sub
Output 3 is assigned to one of the NX6000 in mono mode and control the 2 x side subs which act as one sub
Output 4 is assigned to the the 2 x rear subs in mono mode which also act as one.

Both side and rear subs are placed side by side.

The reason I chose this way of assigning the side and rears as mono is because I wanted all the subs to be connected via the miniDSP so that I can implement BEQ to all my subs


I have taken some screen shots of my overall graphs. Please see below. I would really appreciate if anyone would be happy for me to send the actual .mdat files so you can have a closer look and inspect to see if I have done anything wrong or if there are any areas of concern.

Ok so here is the link for Dropbox with my measurements


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kfieq6psx...Uda63iVka?dl=0

Here are some results...
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Last edited by mkohman; 05-24-2020 at 05:18 AM.
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post #29306 of 29322 Old 05-24-2020, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy2Shoes View Post
To find the best integration between the mains and the subs, first is to measure with different crossovers and see what is the smoothest FR
Set xo as high as it can go, take a sweep of subs only. Set xo as low as it can go, take sweep of main(s) only.
The crossover you want will actually be where the two sweeps cross over (or as close to that as you can set).
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post #29307 of 29322 Old 05-24-2020, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkohman View Post
Hi All,

Hope everyone has been keeping safe and well. Last night I carried out some REW measurements and have tried to align my subs to each other the best I can.

Here are some results...
I think the results are very good. The frequency response is quite flat. There is some slight bass resonance in the 20-30Hz range, but that is common, and also very difficult to control. I don’t think you need to be doing anything else. A measurement of all subs+center would be interesting to see how well the subs and mains interact in the crossover region. Congratulations of a very nice job!
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post #29308 of 29322 Old 05-25-2020, 09:59 AM
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I need some advise. I want to order the UMIK-1 from Cross Spectrum Labs.

But I'm confused about something. With the UMIK and REW I want to be able to level match all my speakers and subwoofers. But I've heard from some people that you can't accurately set absolute SPL measurements with the UMIK.

If I want to set 75 dB or 85 dB SPL C-weighted /slow, apparently the UMIK-1 will differ quite significantly compared to an external SPL meter. This is from googling on AVS on this very issue and some people say it's not a big issue. Something to do with sensitivity, I'm not clued up enough to really understand it.

I just want to get your opinions on this. Anyone who owns a Cross Spectrums UMIK-1 and what is their experience in setting the SPL levels so that the mains and subs were matched in REW? Obvioiusly I want the UMIK for more than just SPL matching, but it's important for me to know that if I order this component that it can do the job properly and if there are any issues I should know about, please let me know now before I order.

Your advise here would be most appreciated.
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post #29309 of 29322 Old 05-25-2020, 10:36 AM
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First off, a huge thank you to John Mulcahy and the rest of the REW staff for the excellent software resource for the DIY audio enthusiasts!


Edit: And Thank You to AustinJerry. Your guide is ridiculously helpful!


I posted this over in the official REW forum, but thought I'd put it here as well since I know some of you are not members of both forums and I feel it is worth mentioning in both places.

Awhile ago I started my DIY speaker builds, and planned on using REW to get everything dialed in once I got the fabrication complete. Not knowing any better, I purchased a Dayton Audio UMM-6 from PE. After getting it set up and realizing I really needed a 90 degree calibration file, I started looking for ways to overcome the fact that Dayton only supplies a 0deg file and there isn't a good way without having other equipment to translate the 0deg file to a 90deg. So I decided to purchase a UMIK-1 that comes with a 90deg file from MiniDSP. I would have purchased a CSL calibrated mic, but with all the foolery going on these days the lead time was a lot longer than I was willing to accept.

Anyway, I have the issue with my Nvidia graphics card where ASIO4ALL does not recognize the WDM HDMI output from the card. With the UMM-6 I was able to use FlexASIO, which worked fine as a substitute. When I received the UMIK-1, I went to set up REW, and when selecting FlexASIO in the settings menu it kept throwing an error regarding the UMM-6 not being found in the backend. Tons of DuckDuckGo-ing (I'm getting rid of the 'G' word) did not yield a solution so I got to digging around in the FlexAsio Program Files folder, and only found the solution because I am fairly adept at computer troubleshooting. Since it took me awhile to figure this out, I wanted to let everyone know how I got it working again.

There are several files in the FlexASIO Program Files folder that can be opened with a text editor. If on Windows, either Notepad or WordPad. It is not immediately apparent since they aren't text files, but if you tell Windows to open them with either program it does work. The 'Configuration' file has a TON of info in it, and really takes some reading to pick apart everything in it (if you aren't a programmer). This file is actually NOT the configuration file. It turns out, when you select FlexASIO in REW and open/close the FlexASIO setup dialog box, REW saves a configuration file in your User folder (C:\Users\%user%). It is named 'FlexASIO.toml' and can be opened with a text editor as well. In it, you will notice that the [INPUT] is setup with the original microphone that you used in REW. When you select FlexASIO in REW, it looks for the input microphone and if it cannot be found, it throws the error and will not allow you to use FlexASIO with the new microphone.

All you have to do is delete the FlexASIO.toml file. Then REW can select FlexASIO like normal and a new configuration file listing the new microphone will be saved after opening/closing the FlexASIO setup dialog box. Also, you will need a reboot to get FlexASIO to recognize the number of outputs available over your HDMI connection.

Well that's it! I'm off to run some sweeps and dial in my system with REW and MSO! Thanks for reading, I hope this helps someone as it took me close to 4 hours to figure out how to get FlexASIO back up and running.
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Last edited by drewp29; 05-25-2020 at 10:40 AM.
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post #29310 of 29322 Old 05-25-2020, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by drewp29 View Post
There are several files in the FlexASIO Program Files folder that can be opened with a text editor. If on Windows, either Notepad or WordPad. It is not immediately apparent since they aren't text files, but if you tell Windows to open them with either program it does work. The 'Configuration' file has a TON of info in it, and really takes some reading to pick apart everything in it (if you aren't a programmer). This file is actually NOT the configuration file. It turns out, when you select FlexASIO in REW and open/close the FlexASIO setup dialog box, REW saves a configuration file in your User folder (C:\Users\%user%). It is named 'FlexASIO.toml' and can be opened with a text editor as well. In it, you will notice that the [INPUT] is setup with the original microphone that you used in REW. When you select FlexASIO in REW, it looks for the input microphone and if it cannot be found, it throws the error and will not allow you to use FlexASIO with the new microphone.

All you have to do is delete the FlexASIO.toml file. Then REW can select FlexASIO like normal and a new configuration file listing the new microphone will be saved after opening/closing the FlexASIO setup dialog box. Also, you will need a reboot to get FlexASIO to recognize the number of outputs available over your HDMI connection.
That "Configuration.md" file in the FlexASIO Program Files folder is the same as the contents of the FlexASIO Configuration web page on GitHub (but it's a lot easier to read in a browser). Before John implemented the current FlexASIO control panel dialog support, clicking the ASIO control panel button when FlexASIO was chosen just took you to that GitHub page. I'd argue that the FlexASIO REW implementation is still a bit buggy in this regard. If the device name in FlexASIO.toml is that of an audio device that's not hooked up (like your old mic), it leads to a situation that you can't escape from without manually messing with FlexASIO.toml in some way. This can be as simple as deleting or renaming it, as you found out. But the whole point of that dialog is to avoid having to be concerned with FlexASIO.toml to begin with.
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