Thanks Rehan,
I thought I had looked through the TV devices but I guess not. I have a VW1000(not listed) and it looks like the VW 200 commands may work OK which are listed.

Yeah usually projector codes don't seem to change much in terms of different models within the same company. I have an Epson 8700UB and I use the Epson 8350 codes and they work perfectly.

The codes work but it seems there is no button for lens memory. Any idea on how to incorporate this?

I was able to program the menu and lens memories to the hard buttons. I'm beginning to like this remote. Now I need to learn how to use the macros.

My sample file in the first post of this thread has an example on setting up activity macros. Might be useful.

I've been using your sample file. And while it has been helpful, looking at it and actually being able to create it are two different things.

That's true, it would be helpful to have a guide going along with it explaining stuff in more detail.

If you're struggling with some stuff, attach your file here and I'd be happy to help.

I notice under Model Designer you have Main Pages with a Power page. How did you set this up? Also all the power buttons on this page and the power buttons under your devices all have Macros associated.

On your Punch Through pages you have all the Power On, Off set to Main. I was just setting up individual devices with the Power on the Punch Through page set to that individual device.
I messed up the programming while playing around but I know how to recreate it. I would like to get some needed power macros working.

I'll try to explain the reasoning behind a separate Power page under Main Pages. Currently all of my devices have a separate power page, with a "power on" and "power off" button. These buttons are macros in themselves rather than just a simple 1 device power on command. They are using If/Then variables to only work when a device actually needs to be turned on or off, rather than firing every time regardless of the device's current power state. The benefit of this is that the macros are much shorter since I don't have to wait for unnecessary commands (and their built-in delays) to fire every time I need to do something.

The downside to this is that in theory it is possible that due to RF interference or some other factor one of the macros may run on the remote but not actually do the intended actions on the system. For example, say I press the CD button on my remote and for some reason the remote signal didn't properly reach the system. Now my remote has sent the commands and has set the variable "CD On = True" so even though my CD player isn't on, if I try to push the CD activity again on my remote, it won't send a power command to the CD player because it already believes the system is on and the power on command only works if the variable "CD On = False".

For this reason, I created a separate Power page on my Main page which contains the Off commands for every device, but without any If/Then logic involved. These buttons won't check to see if something is on or off, they will just send the Off command. I then used the red Power off button on the remote so that if that button is held down for more than 2 seconds, it will use the power off commands for each device from the Main page Power page rather than from the "power off" button on each device's power page. This way if something ever gets out of sync, I can hold down the red power button for 3 seconds and everything will turn off completely. I haven't had to use this function yet because the remote is really good at sending signals without interference getting in the way but programmed it as a "just in case" feature.

The main benefit of it is that I can have macros fire much faster by not including every single device in the power on/power off sequences and only sending commands to devices that need to be turned on or off. At the same time I have the ability to reset back to All OFF if for some reason the remote ever happens to get out of sync with the system.

Also about your question for all devices Green and Red power buttons being punched through to the main page -- that is so that I can handle turning everything off from the main page. If I am watching a blu-ray and hit the red power off button, it won't just turn off the blu-ray but will also turn off the receiver and TV as well (which is what I want). If I didn't punch those buttons to main, it would just turn off the blu-ray player. If I want to switch an activity (i.e. TV), I just hit Main, choose TV, and the If/Then macros know to only send an off command for the blu-ray player, leave the TV and receiver on, and also send an ON command to the Dish DVR box and switch to that input.

I hope this makes some sense -- sorry for the long read! Share your file on here if you're having issues and I as well as others can help.

Here is my ccp file. It is just a collection of separately controlled devices on one remote. I have a Stewart Screen Icon that has nothing attached. After trying with the Screen Masking Icon and learning remote codes it didn't work and I tried looking under Stewart but there was nothing there either.

090113 Default.zip 9k .zip file

Attached Files

File Type: zip

090113 Default.zip (9.4 KB, 306 views)

It's looking good!

You just need to build some activity macros now on your Activity page. For example, instead of just jumping to DirecTV on your DirecTV button, have it power on your AVR, Projector, Screen, and DVR, and switch to the right input on all items, and then have it jump to your DirecTV page.

Also, if possible try to get the discrete on/off power commands for your projector, blu-ray, and DVD player. Remotecentral.com is a great place to find discrete power commands for different devices.

For your Stewart screen, which codeset are you using in the CCP Database? Have you tried looking under Aux, then SOMFY brand and choosing IRT-803 model?

I need conditional buttons with the If/Else I think. If I have my DirecTV button power on other devices, it will do this every time I use it. Sometimes I may switch to my AVP to check my audio codecs and then go back to DirecTV and it will retry turning everything on again. I haven't tried much but I looked at your conditional Macros but I'm unable to recreate something similar. I will try again when I have some more time.

I looked at the Somfy irt-803 but it didn't look right to me. I tried learning the Stewart remote keys and it said that the codes were learned. Some of the learned buttons seemed to respond but not correctly. I did a little search for the Sony VW1000 remote IR On/Off codes and I also searched for the VW200 codes but couldn't find any. I did find where someone else was looking but no reply. Thanks for the help.

I found some discrete on/off codes for the HD DVD, how do I use them?

Seems like I have the remote working fairly well at this point. Just took some time to get past the learning curve. I found discrete remote on/off codes for everything except my projector, it was mostly a matter of picking the right device file. My Stewart screen masking is working for all the presets and memories. I had to use the 2 time learn on this for some reason. Only other problem I have right now is my projector won't shut down when I use my IR repeater. If I go inside my projector room and aim it directly at the projector it works fine. I ordered the RF module and I hope this solves that issue. I still have some tweaking to do and I will make changes as I learn how I use it with my system. Overall I'm quite happy with this remote.

Put the buttons for your AVR that you will need to access on your device page. This is a lot easier than switching between devices and worrying about IF/ELSE conditionals.

I have the If/else macros I'm using working fine now. I just use them to check the on/off power status when switching devices.

I have another issue with my HR44(genie box), I have to turn it on twice using a delay in between. With the genie remote it always worked the first time. If the box has been off for a while and I use only one command the box does not come on. It is like the first command takes the box out of sleep and then the second command turns it on. This workaround really solves this issue.

How often does URC update their device list?

If you're asking about the Directv list in the URC library, the answer is NEVER. They still have the tivo addresses 0-9, twice. Which directv hasn't used since the 2006, and only have codes for two of the current addresses. They have been told about mant times, but never fix it. Its how it was in the mx-editor, when they released the CCP, they just copied the mistakes over.

So I emailed URC about the X-7 advertised on best buy.com asking what model was the X7 as I could not find any info on line until I found this thread. So, does the X7 require a dealer to program or is it similar to other 'consumer URC remotes' where a average joe can program? Thanks

It is the same as the mx-780 and the software is the same as all the other URC remotes. It still requires the same programming.

It doesn't come with software, so you need a custom installer to provide the software, either via remote purchase and programming, or remote purchase and simply supply the software via their discretion.

Ok, Thank you.

How do you get each 'page' to have a different name on the screen? For instance, I set a 'device' to be used as a favorites, and there are 7 favorites pages. However, I can only make the persistent button at the top say 'page 1' or '1 of 6', which is stupid since every page says that.

How do you make it change with the page?

I think as long as you are using a persistent button or field, it will be the same for all pages in a device. I don't have CCP in front of me at the moment so am not sure if you can have a per-page name or not...maybe someone else can chime in.

It depends what remote you are using but for the 890 or the 1200 you select "Page" radio button under "Text" in the properties window.

OK....now, for a macro, what is the difference between using an 'alias' to power off my satellite vs, just using the IR Sat Off code directly? I get a "P" symbol along with an "M" symbol, but its functionally the same right?

The P, means there's a preset command via preset code. M stands for Macro. Starting out there's a M on every device, it needs a jump macro to open the device and get to the first page. Hate that. It should be a given, and hidden, the only M that should appear is when I make Macro.

The advantage of using an alias is that if the code changes you just have to change it in one place instead of everywhere you use it. Another advantage is if you are using RF and IR routing. When you use an alias or macro it will route to the source device.

Ah...Ok...that makes sense.

Tell me about RF and IR routing...what is it, what does it do, why does it matter to me?

Also, what is the 'transporter' window for in the software?

I feel like Im almost done with my programming, but I havnt used much of these features.

Also, the Punch Through Feature....The volume on my system, no matter what device im using, is the AVR. So, I used the AVR Volume punch through pretty much on every single device. Is that how its used?

If you are using an RF base station than the remote will communicate over RF with the base station and the base station will send IR signals either using a blaster or small emitters attached to the end of wires. There are two uses here. First, from a pure IR perspective, you can send the IR signal only to the device that has the emitter tied to it. This improves reliability and more importantly allows you to use two devices with the same IR codes. Also, sometimes in an RF setup you actually want to us IR directly instead of RF. You can also set a single device to do this. The most common reason this is done is that all the components may be hidden from view using an RF base station but the TV is in plain view and uses IR.
In theory, it is for moving devices between remotes. Not sure how well it works in practice though.
Yes, that is exactly how it is used.

Thanks!

Im going to waste a lot of time 'messing around' with this remote. Im pretty sure Im close to having it do exactly what I want, but I can't help tinkering. Way more fun than the Harmony. LOL.

You'll never finish programming the remote. You will just stop and leave it for a bit.