What high-end remote are you using? - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 64 Old 07-28-2019, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
Wait....i can load my existing 1100 functions on the app using a tablet ?
I don't know how much of the 1100 programming would transfer over to the Hub in Harmony's software, but the hub has a touchscreen app that should be somewhat 1100-like. I don't really like touchscreen remotes in general, or the Harmony app on iPhone in particular because you have to scroll screens. I haven't tried the harmony app on a tablet -- it might be a lot better. If you like touchscreens, seems like it would be worth giving the Harmony hub a try. The hub is pretty inexpensive if you already have a tablet.
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post #32 of 64 Old 07-28-2019, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
Wait....i can load my existing 1100 functions on the app using a tablet ?
I don't know how much of the 1100 programming would transfer over to the Hub in Harmony's software, but the hub has a touchscreen app that should be somewhat 1100-like. I don't really like touchscreen remotes in general, or the Harmony app on iPhone in particular because you have to scroll screens. I haven't tried the harmony app on a tablet -- it might be a lot better. If you like touchscreens, seems like it would be worth giving the Harmony hub a try. The hub is pretty inexpensive if you already have a tablet.
I would need (2) one for equipment and one for the PJ....
I never gave any thought to the app, i’ve done some installs using harmonies but always on iphones .......

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post #33 of 64 Old 07-28-2019, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MRAYB View Post
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Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
Wait....i can load my existing 1100 functions on the app using a tablet ?
funny
Ik, i forgot all about that setup option

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post #34 of 64 Old 07-28-2019, 06:05 PM
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I would need (2) one for equipment and one for the PJ....
I never gave any thought to the app, i’ve done some installs using harmonies but always on iphones .......
Why do you need to 2 for equipment and projector? The harmony hub comes with a remote blaster (I think 2), so you can have one blasting towards the rear of the room and another to the front. Also, the IR output is very broad, so it may work even with just the hub.

Before I had the hub, my Harmony 880 and Harmony One IR remotes would work fine on a projector with the projector and equipment in the back of the room -- I'd point the 880 at the screen and the IR beam would bounce off the screen and work fine controlling the equipment in the back.
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post #35 of 64 Old 07-28-2019, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
I would need (2) one for equipment and one for the PJ....
I never gave any thought to the app, i’️ve done some installs using harmonies but always on iphones .......
Why do you need to 2 for equipment and projector? The harmony hub comes with a remote blaster (I think 2), so you can have one blasting towards the rear of the room and another to the front. Also, the IR output is very broad, so it may work even with just the hub.

Before I had the hub, my Harmony 880 and Harmony One IR remotes would work fine on a projector with the projector and equipment in the back of the room -- I'd point the 880 at the screen and the IR beam would bounce off the screen and work fine controlling the equipment in the back.
Works for me

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post #36 of 64 Old 07-31-2019, 02:12 PM
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I have several URC MX-5000 remotes. They do everything I've been able to throw at them without a problem. Most of my gear can and are controlled via wifi and these remotes. I bought the first one at least 10 years ago and it is still going strong. No plans on changing until they "pry them out of my cold dead hands".
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post #37 of 64 Old 08-01-2019, 01:22 AM
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I did not mean just finance the remote. I meant if you are buying a several Million dollar custom install and financing it, throw in the remote
Plus less expensive URC's are great but the tablet is awesome IMO. I agree if you cannot pay cash for just that you do not belong buying it.
A Harmony is not "High end", sorry. even though they are very nice for what they are.
Some people prefer the Wand style anyways.
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post #38 of 64 Old 08-01-2019, 03:45 AM
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Control 4
Use it for TV, cable box/DVR, receiver, and two blu-ray players.
Never have regretted the money I spent for it.

Packing a lot of sound into a small room.
268 square feet/2144 cubic feet
7.2 surround sound.
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post #39 of 64 Old 08-01-2019, 05:24 AM
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I did not mean just finance the remote. I meant if you are buying a several Million dollar custom install and financing it, throw in the remote
Plus less expensive URC's are great but the tablet is awesome IMO. I agree if you cannot pay cash for just that you do not belong buying it.
A Harmony is not "High end", sorry. even though they are very nice for what they are.
Some people prefer the Wand style anyways.
So what exactly defines high end? Are we talking a certain dollar amount?

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post #40 of 64 Old 08-01-2019, 07:06 AM
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So what exactly defines high end? Are we talking a certain dollar amount?
I'd say anything that requires an integrator. Harmony is not high end. Most URC, Crestron, RTI, etc. are. URC only has a few low end models. If you have to get the software from a dealer (or by less legitimate means), it's also high end.

These days, DIYers can get a lot of high end features in phone/tablet based remote apps. But being DIY makes them low end, in my opinion.

If you think ten grand for a remote is outrageous, you're in the wrong thread.
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post #41 of 64 Old 08-01-2019, 07:38 AM
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I'd say anything that requires an integrator. Harmony is not high end. Most URC, Crestron, RTI, etc. are. URC only has a few low end models. If you have to get the software from a dealer (or by less legitimate means), it's also high end.

These days, DIYers can get a lot of high end features in phone/tablet based remote apps. But being DIY makes them low end, in my opinion.

If you think ten grand for a remote is outrageous, you're in the wrong thread.
Yup, I'm in the wrong thread. Way too much for a remote IMHO. If I can't do it myself where's the fun in it. Now if I hit the lottery (which I don't play) I'll consider Ultra high end.

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post #42 of 64 Old 08-01-2019, 07:52 AM
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So what exactly defines high end? Are we talking a certain dollar amount?
Most of what mdavej said and if using wand remotes the physical construction. My old Marantz RC2000 MKII, from the 90's, was built like a tank. Had very readable buttons, the LCD display not so much. The tactile feel of the button presses felt very positive. My URC MX-980's buttons also seem very well made and because of the way they are constructed I don't have to worry about the legend/marking wearing off.
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post #43 of 64 Old 08-04-2019, 05:57 AM
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One strange thing though. Most high end audio equipment comes with solid Billet aluminum remotes. URC is all plastic, albeit high quality. A solid metal URC would be awesome. Heck I would be happy to pay 20+ Grand for one! As was mentioned if anyone thinks this is absurd, you are in the wrong thread. I said in my previous post "Several million Dollar dedicated room". which in fact we actually have. Unfortunately the kids and their friends "live" in it. This is an upper class neighborhood but AFAIK we are the only ones with a theater of this caliber. So all the kids are over here. If not in the theater using the pools but everyone has pools. My wife and I do not get much of a chance to use it. We certainly could in the middle of the night but we are sleeping then
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post #44 of 64 Old 08-04-2019, 07:11 AM
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One strange thing though. Most high end audio equipment comes with solid Billet aluminum remotes...
I agree with you strongly that a high-end remote should be "work of art" construction, but I don't agree solid billet is necessarily the answer. My Krell HTS remote was solid aluminum -- it wasn't very big, but it weighed a ton for it's size, and the weight made it feel like it could easily slip through your fingers if you didn't grip it tight. I always felt like I would lose a toe, or dent the wood floor, if I dropped it. I admired the construction -- genuinely a work of art -- but I put it away immediately and used a Harmony to control it. I don't think I hit 5 buttons on the Krell remote before permanently storing it in the drawer.

I strongly agree with your overall point though.

Dug up a picture of my old Krell remote/brick:

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post #45 of 64 Old 08-08-2019, 05:38 AM
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URC is all plastic, albeit high quality. A solid metal URC would be awesome. Heck I would be happy to pay 20+ Grand for one!
Procure the URC of your choice then find a metal shop that does precision work and have them machine a metal case for you from your choice of metal. IMO, it will not be easy to find a shop of this caliber.
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post #46 of 64 Old 08-08-2019, 06:48 AM
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Great concept if you're going to display your remote in a museum. In my younger days I owned several high end calculators with beautiful brushed aluminum bezels. They were beautiful to look at and built like a tank. But that lasted about a day. Drop it or slide it across the floor, it gets dented and scratched and looks like crap for the rest of its life. Plastic is much more forgiving. And you can get that exact same texture with plastic. Yes, I like fine wood/metal/leather things too. But for a remote it's impractical and overkill IMO.
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post #47 of 64 Old 08-08-2019, 09:03 AM
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My HP-45 calculator still sits on my desk, been there since 1974. Invested well over $500, 1974 dollars in this thing. My Marantz and URC remotes would pass for new ones.
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post #48 of 64 Old 08-08-2019, 10:45 AM
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My HP-45 calculator still sits on my desk, been there since 1974. Invested well over $500, 1974 dollars in this thing. My Marantz and URC remotes would pass for new ones.
Same here. Although the 45 was a little before my time, I've had the 41, 11, 15, 28, 32, 35, 42, 48, 49 and 50. I don't do heavy duty math anymore, but I still keep my 15C handy (has the aluminum bezel that looks like it was run over by a truck). They don't make 'em like they used to.

I've never actually owned a fancy remote. My $5 JP1 remotes do everything I need in most rooms. I do have a few $250 JP1 remotes in my main room, but I only paid $35 for them. Of course I've programmed lots of fancy remotes for family and friends. I'm ashamed to admit how many remotes I have in boxes in my closet.
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post #49 of 64 Old 08-13-2019, 07:13 AM
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You folks are awesome! I collect calculators and adding machines too! My real name is "STEM"! Have you folks ever seen a "nixie" calculator? super duper cool. I have 2 of them. They are from like the late 1950's I think. they must have been my fathers because that is just when I was born.


One weird thing I witnessed today at Best Buy. they had a super cheap universal remote and it controlled every TV in the store! How is that possible? I mean most remotes have to be programmed just for each component?
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post #50 of 64 Old 08-13-2019, 08:09 AM
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One weird thing I witnessed today at Best Buy. they had a super cheap universal remote and it controlled every TV in the store! How is that possible? I mean most remotes have to be programmed just for each component?
Typically most/all models within a brand share the same codes. So all you really need is one Sony code, one Samsung code, etc. The super cheap Insignia remote at Best Buy is JP1-able, so it's possible to load a practically unlimited number of devices (several hundred) and access them via a multiplexer. I set up one such remote for a friend to control 10 Tivos plus as many TVs and several AVRs even though this $20 remote technically only had 4 device memory slots.
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post #51 of 64 Old 08-13-2019, 08:31 AM
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I had the HP 41C with expanded memory (to match the CV) and it was unbelievably good. The 41C owners manual had a blackjack game as a sample program, but it ran very slow and had a bug where sometimes the Ace card wasn't evaluated correctly. I rewrote that program to be about 30 lines of code shorter than the original, and that ran much faster and fixed the Ace evaluation bug. I kept meaning to send my program back to HP, but I loaned my 41c to my college roommate and when he handed it back it said "memory lost". I was sure it was a joke, and that he just typed that text in to scare me, but it turned out he accidentally hit the reset button sequence .

I had a ton of other programs that I used in EE, lost them all in addition to the blackjack program. I rewrote te programs I needed, but never had time to rewrite the blackjack program to send back to HP. I can't remember if there wasn't a way to back up programs or if I just couldn't afford (as a college student) whatever they had for program backup -- almost certainly it was the latter.
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post #52 of 64 Old 08-14-2019, 07:33 AM
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Have you folks ever seen a "nixie" calculator? super duper cool.
Had one at work. In the early 70's our Ampex AVR-1's used nixes for time and time code display, an HP frequency counter use nixes for display, there may have been more devices using them. My 1972 Heathkit AJ-1510 used 7 segment Numitron tubes.
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post #53 of 64 Old 08-14-2019, 02:31 PM
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Have you folks ever seen a "nixie" calculator?
I built a Nixie clock if that counts. Nixie parts from the Ukraine via ebay and then built the smallest possible wooden box around it. Sadly, I didn't snap any photos of finished product, but will do that later.





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I have 2 of them. They are from like the late 1950's I think. they must have been my fathers because that is just when I was born.
Would love to see pics.
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post #54 of 64 Old 08-14-2019, 09:32 PM
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I love that pjp! If it is not too much trouble can I see it finished? I want to know how small the case is. I would really like to build one like that. I would love you if you would give me the schematic/plans, or did you just build it on your own? Thank you
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post #55 of 64 Old 08-14-2019, 10:15 PM
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I love that pjp! If it is not too much trouble can I see it finished? I want to know how small the case is. I would really like to build one like that. I would love you if you would give me the schematic/plans, or did you just build it on your own? Thank you
I just built it myself. The Nixie tube assembly was plug & play, I added a power supply and built the wood enclosure around it. The circuit boards literally dictated the inside dimensions of my enclosure. Use a very low amperage power supply -- I think I used 0.5amps and even that tiny power supply will give you a jolt at Nixie voltages . It's quite dusty in these photos, but they give you a rough idea.





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post #56 of 64 Old 08-15-2019, 07:52 AM
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That is super sweet. Thank you for sharing it. One thing I was wondering though? They had large scale IC's back then? Or that is just how the project runs now? I imagine originally it was a lot larger and more complicated. It also probably had point to point wiring. So if small was your goal, finding a vintage one was probably not your deal. Plus I think vintage ones can be pretty costly?
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post #57 of 64 Old 08-15-2019, 01:14 PM
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That is super sweet. Thank you for sharing it. One thing I was wondering though? They had large scale IC's back then? Or that is just how the project runs now? I imagine originally it was a lot larger and more complicated. It also probably had point to point wiring. So if small was your goal, finding a vintage one was probably not your deal. Plus I think vintage ones can be pretty costly?
The Nixie tubes are NOS (new old stock), so they are legit vintage. The circuit boards are fairly modern (even though they look old). Timekeeping isn't as accurate as typical quartz, so they may be older boards, but not same vintage as the tubes.

Everything you see externally (the Nixie display) is legit vintage. I intentionally built the surrounding enclosure roughly with hand sanded corners to give it a vintage hand-built look to match the look of the vintage tubes.

I'm not really a fan of "fake" vintage (using new stuff that looks old), but I am a fan of using internal stuff to make legit vintage work better. The second picture in post #53 has, in the background, the clockface from a 1937 clock that I was fortunate to pick up. The clock I believe was made by the jeweler himself when he opened his store in 1937 after moving to the US from Switzerland. I suspect they decommissioned it sometime after 1957 when the business was renamed Gasser & Sons. It looks like they finally closed the business in 2017 (https://www.cantonrep.com/news/20171...after-80-years).

The original GE movement worked well, but was noisy, required a plug, and was not very accurate, so I replaced it with a continuous sweep quartz movement -- looks exactly like the original (the second hand does not jump between seconds) but dead accurate and no plug-in required. I still have the original movement in case I ever want to put it back to original, but I probably won't ever do that.

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post #58 of 64 Old 08-16-2019, 07:44 AM
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They had large scale IC's back then?
LSI back to 1971, info here. Z80 in the mid 70's, here.
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post #59 of 64 Old 08-16-2019, 11:58 AM
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I must be completely wrong then. I thought Nixie was late 1950's. It was indeed 1970's? That would explain the IC's then for sure. I know they had IC's in the 70's. I must have my timeline wrong. My bad. Why wouldn't they just have CCFL then like everything else in the '70's? Surely Nixie was more costly? I know the thread has gotten derailed but I would really like to learn about this since we are discussing it. Thank you
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post #60 of 64 Old 08-17-2019, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriTon464 View Post
I thought Nixie was late 1950's.
It was, history here. I am still using a digital clock from the early 70's that uses 7 segment red LED's. I liked the Numitron's in the Heathkit because they could be filtered to most any color, real downside, because they used heated filaments they were prone to burn out. I also like vacuum fluorescent displays, info here. Down side, for 24/7 use they get quite dim after a few years.

My brothers 1983 Chrysler Imperial and my 1994 Chrysler van had displays similar to the one in the reference. My 1961 Chrysler had electroluminescence instrumentation, info here. IMO, the VFD is the best instrumentation of all, real easy on the eyes and very easy to see day or night. Makes all the big analog gauges of today look crude and antiquated.

Last edited by Wendell R. Breland; 08-17-2019 at 07:51 AM.
Wendell R. Breland is offline  
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