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post #1 of 14 Old 04-09-2019, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Display issues with PC to AVR to TV

Before I describe the problem, I will explain my situation...
I have my gaming PC setup in my living room. My graphics card (RTX 2080) is connected to my AVR via HDMI, and the AVR output is going to my TV. I want to play games on my PC at 4K resolution and utilize HDR.

Here are my limitations: 1. There is only one HDR compatible port on my 4K HDR television. 2. My AVR only has 3 ports that can pass through 4K HDR content (the HDCP 2.2 ports)

So, I currently have my gaming PC, Xbox One X, and PS4 Pro connected to the HDCP 2.2 ports of my AVR and the AVR output connects to the single HDR compatible port on my TV.

Now here is the problem...
Whenever I launch or exit a game on my PC, or make display changes via Windows 10, the video and audio signal are both lost. Also If the AVR and TV are both powered on before the PC, you will see the BIOS screen, but it will lose the signal before the login page (best to turn on AVR and TV after the BIOS loads to avoid an unnecessary cycle through inputs). The TV screen stays black and the AVR screen flashes "HDMI" repeatedly. In order for the signal to come back, I have to cycle the inputs on the AVR. For example my PC is connected to the PC input of the AVR, so I have to select any other input (Stream box, cable/sat, game, DVR etc) and then switch back to the PC input. This gets very irritating to quickly cycle through the inputs every time I start a game or make a display change (especially when Windows will only give you 10 seconds to click "Keep changes" or "revert" when you make a change to the display settings).

Troubleshooting steps I have taken and my conclusions...
As most PC users should know, it is normal for a TV/monitor screen to go black for a moment when a new application is launched or a new setting is made to the display. But it is not normal for the screen to stay black indefinitely and for the AVR to flash "HDMI" on the panel. Besides this, everything else works perfectly as long as a game isn't launched/closed, or a display setting is changed.

Connecting my graphics card to the TV directly (bypassing the AVR) fixes the issue, but then I lose HDR (because my AVR is connected to the only HDR compatible port on the television...which gives HDR access to my PlayStation and Xbox). Yes, I could plug the PC directly into the HDR port on television, but then I would have to constantly unplug and plug in the AVR output depending on whether I want to utilize HDR on my gaming consoles or my PC.

Here's where things get weird...

My gaming consoles work perfectly in the HDCP 2.2 ports for HDR, but the PC does not. I have verified that my graphics card, TV, and HDMI cables all support HDCP 2.2. In the Nvidia Control Panel, it verifies that my graphics card and the display (AVR in this case) are HDCP 2.2 compatible together. NOW, if I connect my graphics card from my PC to a NON-HDCP 2.2 port on the AVR the problem is FIXED!!!
I have concluded that HDCP 2.2 is the issue!
I have tried different HDCP 2.2 HDMI cables with no luck. It can't be a faulty AVR because the PS4 and Xbox work perfectly out of those ports, and the PC works perfectly in the non-HDCP 2.2 ports. It can't be a faulty graphics card because it works perfectly when connected to either the TV directly or a non HDCP 2.2 port on the AVR. Lastly, it can't be a faulty TV, well...for the same reasons I just stated.

Please if anyone has any ideas to fix this, let me know. Could an HDCP 2.2 compatible HDMI repeater fix this issue? I have tried everything I can think of and I can't figure out how to solve this problem? I understand this is a long post with a lot of information, so please don't hesitate to ask for clarification and I apologize if this post feels unorganized. Thank you for your time.
For reference the exact models of my hardware:
AVR - Onkyo TX-NR757
TV - Samsung UN78KU7500F
Graphics Card - Gigabyte RTX 2080
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post #2 of 14 Old 04-19-2019, 09:14 AM
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Hi,
I am not sure if I can help, but thought I'd try to help you. I haven't seen the issues you're describing, but I'd most likely say it is an HDCP issue, like you said.

If using a non-compliant HDCP 2.2 port on the AVR fixes all issues (you get HDR on all sources), what exactly is the concern?

Have you already updated the AVR's firmware?
For the PC, have you updated the BIOS?

I have a similar setup.
GTX 1080 -> AVR -> TV.


The BIOS and the Firmware may not solve your problem, but it is worth looking into.
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post #3 of 14 Old 04-19-2019, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cowbodude99 View Post
Hi,
I am not sure if I can help, but thought I'd try to help you. I haven't seen the issues you're describing, but I'd most likely say it is an HDCP issue, like you said.

If using a non-compliant HDCP 2.2 port on the AVR fixes all issues (you get HDR on all sources), what exactly is the concern?

Have you already updated the AVR's firmware?
For the PC, have you updated the BIOS?

I have a similar setup.
GTX 1080 -> AVR -> TV.


The BIOS and the Firmware may not solve your problem, but it is worth looking into.
Thanks for replying. I prefer to use an HDCP 2.2 port because it utilizes RGB/YCbCr4:4:4 HDR. While the HDCP 1.4 ports only support YCbCr 4:2:0. I know it's probably a small visual difference, but I'd like my games to look their best if possible.

Yes all devices have the latest firmware, including the BIOS.

After 8 days, Onkyo customer support actually got back to me and they believe the issue is to due the length of my HDMI cables. I have a 10 ft cable from my PC to the receiver (input) and a 6ft cable from the receiver to the TV (output). According to them, HDMI becomes unstable after 15ft, and I have to count the input and output cable as a single cable (6ft + 10ft = 16ft). So I am buying some shorter cables and testing my PC from a closer location to see if it works. They believe the HDCP 1.4 ports worked because it supports a compressed version of HDR which lowers the data running through the cord and gives it a better chance to work at those distances. And if I can shorten my cables, they said I'll need an HDBaseT HDMI cable extender (which is $250 if I want it to support 4K @60Hz YCbCr4:4:4).

I'm currently testing this issue and I'll update this thread. Thank you for your input.
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post #4 of 14 Old 04-19-2019, 09:35 AM
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Oh, I see - it wasn't actually working like you needed it to. Got it!

I haven't tried gaming on my system, but I'm using 25' long active cables from Monoprice. Cabernet series. I was able to play HDR, but it was only video, so not 4:4:4.
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post #5 of 14 Old 04-21-2019, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM96 View Post
Before I describe the problem, I will explain my situation...
I have my gaming PC setup in my living room. My graphics card (RTX 2080) is connected to my AVR via HDMI, and the AVR output is going to my TV. I want to play games on my PC at 4K resolution and utilize HDR.

Here are my limitations: 1. There is only one HDR compatible port on my 4K HDR television. 2. My AVR only has 3 ports that can pass through 4K HDR content (the HDCP 2.2 ports)

So, I currently have my gaming PC, Xbox One X, and PS4 Pro connected to the HDCP 2.2 ports of my AVR and the AVR output connects to the single HDR compatible port on my TV.

Now here is the problem...
Whenever I launch or exit a game on my PC, or make display changes via Windows 10, the video and audio signal are both lost. Also If the AVR and TV are both powered on before the PC, you will see the BIOS screen, but it will lose the signal before the login page (best to turn on AVR and TV after the BIOS loads to avoid an unnecessary cycle through inputs). The TV screen stays black and the AVR screen flashes "HDMI" repeatedly. In order for the signal to come back, I have to cycle the inputs on the AVR. For example my PC is connected to the PC input of the AVR, so I have to select any other input (Stream box, cable/sat, game, DVR etc) and then switch back to the PC input. This gets very irritating to quickly cycle through the inputs every time I start a game or make a display change (especially when Windows will only give you 10 seconds to click "Keep changes" or "revert" when you make a change to the display settings).

Troubleshooting steps I have taken and my conclusions...
As most PC users should know, it is normal for a TV/monitor screen to go black for a moment when a new application is launched or a new setting is made to the display. But it is not normal for the screen to stay black indefinitely and for the AVR to flash "HDMI" on the panel. Besides this, everything else works perfectly as long as a game isn't launched/closed, or a display setting is changed.

Connecting my graphics card to the TV directly (bypassing the AVR) fixes the issue, but then I lose HDR (because my AVR is connected to the only HDR compatible port on the television...which gives HDR access to my PlayStation and Xbox). Yes, I could plug the PC directly into the HDR port on television, but then I would have to constantly unplug and plug in the AVR output depending on whether I want to utilize HDR on my gaming consoles or my PC.

Here's where things get weird...

My gaming consoles work perfectly in the HDCP 2.2 ports for HDR, but the PC does not. I have verified that my graphics card, TV, and HDMI cables all support HDCP 2.2. In the Nvidia Control Panel, it verifies that my graphics card and the display (AVR in this case) are HDCP 2.2 compatible together. NOW, if I connect my graphics card from my PC to a NON-HDCP 2.2 port on the AVR the problem is FIXED!!!
I have concluded that HDCP 2.2 is the issue!
I have tried different HDCP 2.2 HDMI cables with no luck. It can't be a faulty AVR because the PS4 and Xbox work perfectly out of those ports, and the PC works perfectly in the non-HDCP 2.2 ports. It can't be a faulty graphics card because it works perfectly when connected to either the TV directly or a non HDCP 2.2 port on the AVR. Lastly, it can't be a faulty TV, well...for the same reasons I just stated.

Please if anyone has any ideas to fix this, let me know. Could an HDCP 2.2 compatible HDMI repeater fix this issue? I have tried everything I can think of and I can't figure out how to solve this problem? I understand this is a long post with a lot of information, so please don't hesitate to ask for clarification and I apologize if this post feels unorganized. Thank you for your time.
For reference the exact models of my hardware:
AVR - Onkyo TX-NR757
TV - Samsung UN78KU7500F
Graphics Card - Gigabyte RTX 2080

444 rgb or ycb whatever hdr 4k at 60hz is 8bit only. 422 is 10 and 12bit 4k 60hz. This is a limitation of hdmi 2.0. I'm using monoprice 10 foot premium certified cables from avr to tv and 6 foot cables from PC to avr with no issues.... 1080ti. I'm sure you switched inputs between the consoles and PC to verify if input on avr bad?
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post #6 of 14 Old 04-21-2019, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Friendlys View Post
444 rgb or ycb whatever hdr 4k at 60hz is 8bit only. 422 is 10 and 12bit 4k 60hz. This is a limitation of hdmi 2.0. I'm using monoprice 10 foot premium certified cables from avr to tv and 6 foot cables from PC to avr with no issues.... 1080ti. I'm sure you switched inputs between the consoles and PC to verify if input on avr bad?
Thank you for your response.

Yes, I have tried connecting my PC to the HDCP 2.2 ports that my consoles are connected to.

Yes, you are correct about the bits. Early on, I thought my issue was stemming from an HDR incompatibility, but I have verified all my devices should be compatible with RGB/YCbCr4:4:4. I did however try changing the form of HDR in the Nvidia control panel to 4:2:0 and 4:2:2, but the issue persisted. Strangely enough, I recently discovered the HDCP 1.4 ports (the ones that work with my PC) should support 4:2:0 at 4K 60Hz, but Windows 10 won't let me turn on HDR (in display settings). HDR settings just don't show up (Windows 10 issue?).


I have yet to try shorter cords like the Onkyo representative confidently suggested, but from the information you just gave me about the length of your cords, I'm starting to doubt the Onkyo representative is correct. However, I suppose it is possible you have higher quality cords than me, which could be causing stability issues as the same distance with my system. Regardless, I will be testing these things tonight and will update this thread tomorrow morning or afternoon.


I read somewhere that somebody fixed a similar issue like this by setting their AVR and TV to factory default settings. I really wanted to avoid this since I'll have to reconfigure the speakers with the mic and all that, but my remaining options are becoming limited. I think a fresh Windows install might be in order to as a last resort. If the cords and some other ideas in my head don't work tonight, then I'll probably try the factory default settings next week.
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-22-2019, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Update - 4/22/2019

Well I tried shortening the cables and tried several different HDMI cables again, but the issue is persisting (Onkyo customer service was wrong). Not surprising given that some of you don't share my problem and have longer cords.

However, I believe I might have figured out the true problem after more research. From day one, this has sounded like a "handshake" issue since the first connection always works, but the signal is lost after any changes are made (start/exit game or transfer to BIOS to login). Since the display issues didn't happen on an HDCP 1.4 port, I incorrectly assumed HDCP was to blame. But I have actually noticed my receiver flashes "HDMI" periodically even when my connection seems to be ok on the PC (sounds unstable).


I now believe that the EDID (Extended display identification data. After a little research on EDID, my problem strongly follows problems devices face with incorrect EDID. It also seems more common with using AVR's. From my current knowledge, it looks like this data is meant for devices to communicate what type of video each is capable of outputting and then a common output is decided. When one device expects an EDID code that is different from what a device is currently sending, two things can happen. 1 No video will be displayed. 2 A device will pick a very low video resolution that it is confident the other device can handle.

So it sounds like one of my devices, is expecting an EDID that is different from one that it is receiving. I believe the HDCP 1.4 port didn't have the display issue because HDR wouldn't work in that port. And apparently any change to the resolution, refresh rate, or HDR version changes the EDID. So I believe that one of my devices is expecting a different form of HDR at my current resolution and refresh rate than it is really being provided. Because I don't have display issues with a direct connection from my graphics card to the TV, the EDID with those devices is most likely correct. It is probably the AVR that is expecting an incorrect EDID (which sounds common after a little research). Perhaps there is some post processing going on deep in the TV settings for HDR that the AVR doesn't know about. From some searches online, it seems some people have had very similar problems to mine and had people tell them to manage the EDID.

This approach seems very promising and it looks like there is some free software online that can do this. It still sounds a little complex but by watching some videos and reading the manual on the software I think I might be able to find out what's wrong with the EDID and fix it. Alternatively there are also physical devices like HDMI extenders that can fix EDID issues as well. However, I would like to avoid that as they can get quite expensive if you want to pass through 4K with 4:4:4 HDR.

If anybody has had any experience with EDID or finds a good article or video for my specific issue, feel free to post it here. Thank you all for your suggestions and I will hopefully be able to test this EDID software and update this thread by the end of the week.
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post #8 of 14 Old 05-01-2019, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Update - 5/1/2019

After thoroughly investigating the EDID for my devices with free software, I was unable to fix the issue. The software was kind of confusing, and I was not able to find any EDID mismatches. I could have experimented more, but it looked like I could cause a lot more damage by tweaking stuff that I knew nothing about.

So I bought an HD Fury Integral 2, which is supposed to be great for solving HDMI issues (especially with AVRs), including EDID and HDCP handshakes. It was kind of expensive, but based on reviews and some forums, it looks like it could truly solve my problem. For the most part, it looks like it was designed to be plug and play. But even if it proves not to be, its built in software for EDID managing is a lot better and simpler to use than the free software I was using. The online manual appears to be very detailed and easy to read in case I do have to change the EDID manually myself.

The device is supposed to be delivered later today and I will test it out this weekend. I will update this thread next week to let you guys know how it works.
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post #9 of 14 Old 05-13-2019, 04:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Solved - final update

The HD Fury Integral 2 device solved the problem! It was plug and play and didn't require custom EDIDs. Now I can launch a game and exit one without having to cycle inputs to regain the audio and video signal! I guess the company is right in saying it "solves all HDMI problems".


If anyone has a real tricky problem with HDMI, save yourself some troubleshooting and valuable time by buying something from HD Fury. Yes, they can be pretty expensive depending on what kind of specs you want (resolution, frame rate, HDR, etc.), but it gets the job done.


Hopefully this will be helpful to know for others experiencing this kind of issue.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to try and help me solve this problem.
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post #10 of 14 Old 06-23-2019, 12:50 PM
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Big Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by JM96 View Post
The HD Fury Integral 2 device solved the problem! It was plug and play and didn't require custom EDIDs. Now I can launch a game and exit one without having to cycle inputs to regain the audio and video signal! I guess the company is right in saying it "solves all HDMI problems".


If anyone has a real tricky problem with HDMI, save yourself some troubleshooting and valuable time by buying something from HD Fury. Yes, they can be pretty expensive depending on what kind of specs you want (resolution, frame rate, HDR, etc.), but it gets the job done.


Hopefully this will be helpful to know for others experiencing this kind of issue.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to try and help me solve this problem.
JM96 you are the man...I have registered in avsForum and this is my first post just to be able to say THANK YOU for sharing your experience trying to resolve this problem.

For the last 6 months I've been trying to fix similar issue between my HTPC and my new LG 4K TV (65SK7900PVB). Every time i enable the HDR on my TV and Windows its working fine until i run or exit games...then TV start to lose signal randomly.

At the beginning i thought its a GPU card issue i upgraded my (RX580 8GB supports HDMI 2.0b) to GTX 1080) and that didn't fix the problem!

Then i followed most of the online threads advice's about changing the HDMI cable and replaced what i had with the famous Belkin Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable! and that didn't work either.

Now after you mission EDID it starts to make sense to me this could be the real problem.
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post #11 of 14 Old 06-23-2019, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by XNIMRY View Post
JM96 you are the man...I have registered in avsForum and this is my first post just to be able to say THANK YOU for sharing your experience trying to resolve this problem.

For the last 6 months I've been trying to fix similar issue between my HTPC and my new LG 4K TV (65SK7900PVB). Every time i enable the HDR on my TV and Windows its working fine until i run or exit games...then TV start to lose signal randomly.

At the beginning i thought its a GPU card issue i upgraded my (RX580 8GB supports HDMI 2.0b) to GTX 1080) and that didn't fix the problem!

Then i followed most of the online threads advice's about changing the HDMI cable and replaced what i had with the famous Belkin Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable! and that didn't work either.

Now after you mission EDID it starts to make sense to me this could be the real problem.
Awesome, glad to have helped! LOL I created an AVS account specifically for this problem as well. If you do end up purchasing an EDID managing device (whether its from HD Fury or not), I have a few notes of advice.

Note #1 - If you launch a brand new game for your first time, sometimes Windows will decide to display the game at a different resolution than your desktop (i.e. desktop was displaying at 4k, but game tries to display in 1080). If this happens, the HD fury device will either take much longer to recatch the signal or it will completely lose it. But once you change the in game settings to match your native resolution, this problem will never happen again (for this game). Most games however should automatically detect your native resolution though.

Note #2 - If you are having trouble with the signal being lost alot on a particular game, you should try changing the in game settings display mode to borderless (default is usually full screen). Borderless allows the desktop to still technically run in the background, making it so your devices don't have to participate in an extra EDID handshake. In fact, you might want to try this on your current system before purchasing any EDID managers.

Note #3 - More often than not, any problem you experience with loss of signal with an HTPC is going to be because of HDR. The HD fury device I bought will succeed in almost 100% of all changes that are made to the display that include changes to resolution and refresh rate. However, if you make a change in HDR settings, the chances of the HD Fury device successfuly completing the EDID handshake without your intervention (switching the inputs to regain the singal in my case) are now only 50%. Long story short, pay careful attention to what kind of HDR you are running.

Note #4 - This device takes a little longer to capture the very first signal it detects. Meaning that unless you have a hard drive (slow boot time) your bios will finish loading before your TV displays the picture. I have an SSD, so the first thing I see when my TV displays the signal is my Windows login screen. This isn't that big of an issue for me however since I rarely need to actually go in the BIOS. And if you really needed to, you could always bypass the EDID manager (unplug it) and memorize the key you need to push to enter the BIOS settings. Then, even with the EDID manager plugged in, you could still access your BIOS by repeatedly pushing the key you memorized to access the BIOS. You don't need to see a picture to enter the BIOS, it's just nice if you can because you can see and be reminded of what each key does (i.e. F1 for safe mode, F9 to enter BIOS settings, etc.).

Final Note - I will still experience my display issue about 15% of the time, but it is usually resolved by resetting the HD Fury device (it has its own processor so treat it like any computer that will occasionally have a hiccup). And even in the rare scenarios I do have to cycle the input to regain my signal, its not very irritating because it happens so rarely. Without this device, I would lose the signal every single time. Main point is that this display issue can't exactly be permanently cured with this device (with the work I've done with it), but it can be make it work nearly perfectly and make its problems much easier to manage when they do arise.
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post #12 of 14 Old 06-24-2019, 08:45 AM
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These are really interesting notes, whats funny i landed into your thread because i was planning to upgrade my old entry Onkyo AVR with new one capable of 4k HDR pass through. i was trying to search the possible issues i should expect running PC 4k games through an AVR before investing in a new one.


I've noticed your AVR is a 2016 model, do you think buying a newer model 2018-2019 mid/high range AVR would solve the EDID issue? after checking the price of the HD Fury I'm still on the fence not sure if i would put US$250 for such device or top that amount up to $500 and get my self a decent AVR?!

Appreciate your thoughts.
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-24-2019, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by XNIMRY View Post
These are really interesting notes, whats funny i landed into your thread because i was planning to upgrade my old entry Onkyo AVR with new one capable of 4k HDR pass through. i was trying to search the possible issues i should expect running PC 4k games through an AVR before investing in a new one.


I've noticed your AVR is a 2016 model, do you think buying a newer model 2018-2019 mid/high range AVR would solve the EDID issue? after checking the price of the HD Fury I'm still on the fence not sure if i would put US$250 for such device or top that amount up to $500 and get my self a decent AVR?!

Appreciate your thoughts.
Well although this EDID handshake involves my TV, graphics card, and AVR, I narrowed the problem down to the AVR. I have read in some places that Onkyo receivers have more problems with graphics cards, but I'm not sure how true that is.

It's possible a newer/higher end receiver might solve the EDID issue, but I have my doubts. For example, although mine is a 2016 model, its HDCP 2.2 ports support all the newest features (4:4:4/RGB HDR, 4K @ 60Hz, etc.). A newer model would most likely just have more HDCP 2.2 compatible ports (mine only has 3 out of the 8 or something. So I'm sure the newer have at least 5 HDCP 2.2 ports, which is what you want if you want 4K HDR.


If you were considering getting a new AVR (I wasn't because everything else worked with it perfectly), I would recommend buying a different brand than Onkyo (based on the graphics card issues rumor) and a higher end AVR model than what I currently have. If I remember correctly, I believe my AVR was an entry model and priced around $250-300. So it would probably be wise to spend more than I did (more expensive models may have more EDID codes available).

Worst case scenario, you could always return the receiver back from wherever you purchased it if it doesn't fix your EDID issue. Then you could consider the HD Fury Integral 2.

Before you purchase anything though, does your motherboard and AVR have an SPDIF port (optical)? Because if they do, you could get surround sound without an HDMI cable going into the receiver. Then you could do a direct HDMI connection from your graphics card to your TV. However this assumes you are satisfied with your motherboards on board audio quality (some audiophiles can tell the difference). This also assumes that you have an HDR compatible port open (not occupied by another device) on your 4K TV. This wasn't an option for me because my 4K TV is an earlier model so it only has one HDR port. And in order for all my gaming devices to have access to HDR, I was forced to plug everything into the AVR and then output it to the single HDR port on my TV. But if you don't share the same limitation, you might want to try this.

Glad to help and please do keep me updated on occasion of what you decide to do and if anything worked.
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post #14 of 14 Old 06-25-2019, 08:28 AM
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Well although this EDID handshake involves my TV, graphics card, and AVR, I narrowed the problem down to the AVR. I have read in some places that Onkyo receivers have more problems with graphics cards, but I'm not sure how true that is.

It's possible a newer/higher end receiver might solve the EDID issue, but I have my doubts. For example, although mine is a 2016 model, its HDCP 2.2 ports support all the newest features (4:4:4/RGB HDR, 4K @ 60Hz, etc.). A newer model would most likely just have more HDCP 2.2 compatible ports (mine only has 3 out of the 8 or something. So I'm sure the newer have at least 5 HDCP 2.2 ports, which is what you want if you want 4K HDR.


If you were considering getting a new AVR (I wasn't because everything else worked with it perfectly), I would recommend buying a different brand than Onkyo (based on the graphics card issues rumor) and a higher end AVR model than what I currently have. If I remember correctly, I believe my AVR was an entry model and priced around $250-300. So it would probably be wise to spend more than I did (more expensive models may have more EDID codes available).

Worst case scenario, you could always return the receiver back from wherever you purchased it if it doesn't fix your EDID issue. Then you could consider the HD Fury Integral 2.

Before you purchase anything though, does your motherboard and AVR have an SPDIF port (optical)? Because if they do, you could get surround sound without an HDMI cable going into the receiver. Then you could do a direct HDMI connection from your graphics card to your TV. However this assumes you are satisfied with your motherboards on board audio quality (some audiophiles can tell the difference). This also assumes that you have an HDR compatible port open (not occupied by another device) on your 4K TV. This wasn't an option for me because my 4K TV is an earlier model so it only has one HDR port. And in order for all my gaming devices to have access to HDR, I was forced to plug everything into the AVR and then output it to the single HDR port on my TV. But if you don't share the same limitation, you might want to try this.

Glad to help and please do keep me updated on occasion of what you decide to do and if anything worked.
Your assumptions are correct this is my current setup all my TV hdmi ports supports 4K HDR which makes my TV the new central hub for all HDMI connections, luckily my AVR supports two inputs optical.

one fed by TV and the other is fed by HTPC, however there was a strange issue with my audio i couldn't configure my HTPC to produce true 5.1

(in windows sound configuration the playback device config button in is always disabled no matter what i do. even changing the playback device to GPU card that's limited only to stereo config. the only way i managed to make it working in 5.1 through direct HDMI connection into AVR but that's limited only for 1080p resolution!)

In the other hand my LG TV apps can play 5.1 flawlessly using the optical port i guess that helped me to overcome the problem partially since im using the PLEX app on TV to play all my content stored in HTPC.

bottom line i think its time to upgrade my AVR i'm keeping an eye on Denon avr x1500h and x2500h I've noticed slight price drop after the announcement of the next gen 600h series.

Again thanks for sharing your thoughts once i make my decision i will revisit this post and share my findings if the new AVR fixed my EDID issue.
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avr , edid , gaming pc , hdcp 2.2 , hdr

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