AVS Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm starting to get my PJ really dialed in and need help with a couple of problems I've had since the beginning.


I am using an Iscan v2 and a Dalite 72" wide 4x3 screen, squeezed to 16x9.


1. Images on Red and Blue tube faces are not sharp (I cannot see scan lines). I have set G2 (per BoyzToyz site), Contrast, and Brightness with Avia. I am going to attempt Astig adjustment next. Since there are only 2 pole magnets am I correct that I'm trying to achieve an even under focused pattern with no movement of the dots (or pluses) throughout the full range of focus adjustment? Are there any other adjustments that would affect tube focus? Red lines on the screen (especially vertical) are fatter and are visible on both sides of Green lines.


2. My picture is not square (rectangle). The right side keystone's down (top and bottom) to almost 2" shorter than the left. Also the left edge of the Red crosshatch pattern horizontal lines bend up slightly (see attached drawing which is over exaggerated). Screen and PJ alignment have been checked and re-checked several times (by more than one person) and appears to be correct. I have also checked to make sure all the floor/ceiling plugs are correct. Just to check, I have moved the left side of PJ forward and back up to 6" and re-centered image, without correcting the problem.


Both problems are irritating, but the 2nd one is driving me nuts.


Thanks, Jawhn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here's the attachment. Sorry about that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,643 Posts
Jawhn ,

1] the G2 will not matter for the focus on the tube face unless you are over driving the tubes [ which will cause Blooming ] . If this is what you have then you are pushing the tubes too hard [ is the contrast up all the way ? - did you have it at 50% when adjusting the G2's ? ] .

-- consider that the Green tube could have been replaced and have a tighter focus than the other 2 tubes [ probably not the case but still very possible ] .

2] Check all your 'flip' plugs [ the plugs that invert the image ] and be sure that they are all as they should be [ this is in the manual ] , you might have 1 or 2 plugged in wrong for your projection type .

--- Keep us posted ,

--- Jason Berg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
G2 was set with contrast and brightness at 50%. All my gain pots are also at 50%. Contrast and brightness (set with Avia) are both about 60% now. Black and white levels look good with plenty of detail on dark scenes and black blacks. I have checked all the 'flip' plugs [ the plugs that invert the image ] and they are all as they should be for ceiling mount (6.8,10,12,14,16,18,20,22).


Jawhn
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,582 Posts
Oh, Also be sure the CEILING/FLOOR switch is set to ceiling.


I have noticed if I play with the switch while the unit is running is throws the image off just a little bit.


It looks to me as if your switch is still set to floor.


If your looking at the back of the unit and its on the ceiling I think its on the right hand side (board) I havent been in there in quite a long time so I am trying to use my memory on this and not actually looking at the guts right now :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Switch is set to ceiling. I just pulled and reseated all the flip plugs including the 3 under the convergence board (no change). Also checked my lens rings (set to 100).


Next I'm going to pull my lens block, check the wedges and reseat the block. Anybody ever done this while it's on the ceiling? I also have a parts machine that I may start swaping out boards with. While the lenes are off I'm going to check the focus on the tube face, without the lenses.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,582 Posts
I have done just that while on the ceiling. While getting the lense block off is rather easy because it wants to fall right down on you its a bit tough gettign back in because of the gravity effect and the weight you have to hold and line up before it goes back as its supposed to. Then you basically have to set everything back up because the convergence will NOT be the same at all.


NOTE: be carefull if you have the HD-6 lenses because you will see just how much weight of the projector is the lenses and thats what you need to safely get to the floor, make sure you have a good grip on them as you remove the last few screws.


As a rule you should remove the screws from both the sides first and work on the two on the top which will be facing the floor when ceilig mounted. They will keep the block seated when you remove the side screws just be care full when you get them loose. The block may tend to stay in place because it sort of locks in but it can just slide right out and fall if not held.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I figure I'll have someone else take out the last couple of screws, while I hold the lens block. I pulled the lens block to check the tubes when I first got it, so I know how heavy it is.


Jawhn
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top