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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, let me say that my little Sony is looking VERY good after working through a few setup problems (Thanks guy's).


Because of tube size, this isn't the brightest PJ. What I'd like to know is how other users 1031Q's perform on VERY dark movies like "Lord Of The Rings". I do not have LOTR, but I have noticed some APPARENT loss of detail in VERY dark scenes of other movies. I have paid careful attention to setting up Gray Scale, G2, Contrast and Brightness with Avia.


:confused:
 

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Jawhn ,

-- I am a LOTR nut and I watch it all the time ;) . I have great detail in very dark/black scenes [ Blade II is another great test for this , so is Dark City ] . Just keep at the adjusting [ tweaking ] and you will get there , it can take a while to get it just right [ but it's worth it and when you get there you'll know it :) ] . Do you have 100% light control ?

--- Jason Berg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jason,


I do have total light control and watch movies (and do setup) in total darkness. I had asked a question earlier that I'm pretty sure is causing the problem.


During initial setup I moved several pots trying to fix a shifting problem (which is fixed). I know this is not the best method, but it's what I did. When moving a particular pot did not help the problem I ATTEMPTED to return the pot to its original position. I'm thinking I didn't get one or more pots back in the right position. The problem is as follows:


On the Avia disc the pattern for adjusting Brightness is a 1/2 Black 1/2 Gray screen W/2 light moving bars in the Black section. The idea is to adjust brightness so the darker of the 2 bars is just barley visible (which I could EASILY do when I started). The problem now is that I can't see these bars at all (no matter what I adjust, Brightness, Contrast, G2 etc ). I know I'm losing detail.


I'm afraid to start moving RANDOM pots, for fear of messing something else up.


If anyone has experience or a good idea of which pots MIGHT be causing this situation I would be willing to try moving SELECT pots (or anything else that would help).


Thanks in advance,


Jawhn
 

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When I finally got the courage to optimize my G2 settings the same thing happened to me. I believe the problem was a combination of having the G2 pots set too low (be gentle) and the pots on the BA board tweaked too much. After setting everything back to where they were before I started, every thing was fine (I made sure I recorded the pot positions before I even started).


Dan
 

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what's up,i have to agree with jason...double check your setup again.i run a 45 x 80 inch screen and black level and detail is not a problem at all!!!i didn't see you mention if you use a htpc or not..it makes a huge difference.also i found that the extron interfaces also REALLY bring out that black detail!!!!!if you do use a htpc,try using ffdshow if you can...the results can be awesome...although i would say that my $25 extron box did the most for black detail....don't get me wrong,you should be able to achieve it without this device,although it took my picture to a new "level"..no pun intended.


brickie
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am using an Iscan v2 doubler, not an HTPC. I have an Extron 120, but I'm currently not using it. What's the difference between using the Extron's peaking control and the contrast control on the PJ? Is there anything else on the Extron that would affect black level? The reason I got the Extron to start with was for negative sync, which my Iscan now handles. I was trying to reduce the number of processors the signal would have to go through.


When I first setup my PJ I could clearly see the moving lines on the Avia disk (both on the tube and on the raster). Now they are non-exsistent, no matter what I adjust. I have a 50" RPTV behind my roll-up screen (that I use for TV viewing) and the lines show up clearly on it.


I can display a 10 step grayscale pattern and clearly see all 10 steps. I have adjusted grayscale (G2) with every method I could find and they all come out pretty much the same. It looks good, but too dark without cranking up brightness and contrast considerably beyond midpoint. At that point the raster is clearly visable. The RGB gain pots are set to there mid positions (although I've tried setting them higher and lower and redoing grayscale).


BTW: The AGC switch has no effect on brightness.


Jawhn
 

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You need to do the G2's before you do anything.


If you tru to set up the projector and then do the g2's your screwign up everything. So the first thing should be is the tube G2 settign s then you go into brightness and contrast and grey scale.


I have watch LOTR and it looks killer on my 1031Q. I just watched Blade II last week and I was really amazed with how tight I have this thing set up. I tell you what I am so not thinking of upgrading any time soon and to tell you the truth if I do ever do this install where I am going to get an NEC 6PG fro the labor I dont even think I am going to plug it in. Im just going to sell the monster because I am getting such a good picture I dont even want anything better, nothing can be better then this :)


As jason says keep adjustign the settings because it takes some time and it will not happen over night. It took me about six months to fully understand whats happenign inside this thing and what does what and I tell you I dont have to do anyhting but push the power button on the VPH722 to turn it now now and sit back and enjoy a killer image.


Now it might be your screen and not so much the projector too. I am using a Draper Clarian and it made a huge improvement over a DIY I originally used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
First off let me explain that I'm not a complete newbie at this. I've had a CRT PJ for about 2 years now. I had an NEC 9PG+ (with slightly toasty tubes) before the Sony. I've done the G2's at the beginning. The problem is, no matter what I do, it still comes out dark. I've gone through complete setup, with all controls at neutral to start at least 12 times now. Where do YOU set your Brightness and Contrast controls when YOU set YOUR G2 settings (caps are for clarification only)?


I guess what I don't understand is that if I can see ALL levels on a gray scale pattern, how come I can't see those moving lines?
 

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OH I did mean to talk about the brightness and contrast controls in my post sorry.


Actually I set them to about mid poition on the VPH722 controler as the ones on the PJ are cut off when the controler is connected and when you run the RGB inputs as well.


I set them about mid position and after the adjustment is done I find the brightness on the controler is just a bit past mid position. I do have all these controls duplicated in the line doublers digital menue so my setting will problably do you no good as I digitally control them or you could say equalize them with the line doubler but they are not much past its mid settigs as well. Im not pushing these controls much at all.


The only complaint about brightness from my 1031Q is on Buffy Vampire Salyer as this is recorded dark as well as Angel. Other then these two show I have no darkness problems. Ill check my settings and post a pic of the menue to show you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, guys. Sometimes tough problems require simple solutions. After reading pretty much every post on "black level", and there's quite a few, I have completely solved my problem. With just a few little clicks. First off I set AGC (Automatic Gain Control) to Manual. Thought this might be re-adjusting the levels I was adjusting (don't think this was the case, but I left it there anyway). But the SIMPLE thing (that never even crossed my mind until reading one post that just mentioned it) was turning OFF "Enhanced Black" on my DVD player.


Black and White levels are now GREAT, with Dark blacks and bright whites and plenty of detail. And YES I can now see and adjust the moving lines on the PLUGE test on Avia.


Hope this helps someone in the future.


Jawhn :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Back to the comments on the Extron. After some thought I believe the Peaking control on the Extron corresponds to Sharpness and not Contrast. Is this correct? Since the Sharpness control is disabled in RGB, (at least it is on mine) I can see a use for the Extron. Brickie, what setting do you have your Peaking on?


BTW: Anyone know of an INEXPENSIVE add on box that would allow Color and Hue adjustments in RGB. No, I'm not talking about a cheap HTPC or an Iscan Pro (I mean REALLY inexpensive).


Jawhn
 

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Sima makes one, but it's inexpensive, and it shows it in the picture. Lot's of noise. You get what you pay for, so be careful.


Marc
 

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Jawhn, i run my peaking control slightly under 50%.probably around 47%...i find if i go to high i get the "ringing" around the letters.used correctly it can be an awesome addition to a picture.i do agree with some of the other posters,a HTPC is really the way to go.when you see one you will never live without it..and for purely a great picture...it could be done for under $500.


brickie
 
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