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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 1031Q which powers up, you hear the HV "crackle" but no picture. No test grid either. Even went through the RGB 2 input. Nothing.

Any Ideas?


Rick
 

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D1rector,


I have a 1270q that had simular symptoms. A CPU reset was needed to bring it back up. Got instructions from an AVS member. It was a little tricky and required some dis-assembly, but it worked. I'm no PJ technician and I don't know if the 1031q can be reset, but at least it gives you hope. Hopefully someone with that PJ has had the same issue and can direct you.
 

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Unfortunately the 10xx projectors are analog, so there really isnt anything to reset.


Some things to look at:


Try unplugging the projector- Then unplug each boards connections and plug back in. Sometimes you can have oxidation within the connection or the connector may not be fully inserted, which can cause these type of problems.


Make sure you are really feeding a signal. Try several cables, just in case.


You might check the G2 settings in case someone got the bright idea (pun intended) to turn them all the way down.


Hope this helps.



--Kieth
 

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When mine arrived the convergence board frame was bent and it was causing the board to short out. I found it by accident when raising the frame.


Short answer... check connections.


Eric
 

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Are the DIP switches for each tube on? Maby some one turned off the guns and no mater what you do you wont get an image until you turn each tube on with the DIP switches. These are for focusing and adjusting each CRT.


Maby they though it would be safer to send it out with the guns turned off incase of bad installation or hook up the CRT's wouldn't get waisted?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The dip switches are all on and the three guns are lit. Just can't seem to get a signal to pass through (composite, RGB, or Test) In the process of swapping boards from a canabalized 1031Q. Not sure where to start.
 

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HMM? this is happening with both the RGB inputs as well as the composit?


It might be that input board got jared around in shipping or its plain ole' busted. I would problably start there, but its not real easy to get at it.


If you unscrew the plasic vent under the three lenses you can un do I think 3 screws and pull it out slightly, not all the way. You may be able to check connections at that point with a flashlight. If you need to get at the board from the back I think your really going to need to do a lot of gutting out from above and from the looks of these things its not at all going to be easy.
 

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I was playing around with my VPH-2020 and all of a sudden when I turned it back on, I got the same exact symptoms that you had. Powers up, and crackles but no picture... after hours of tracing back what I did, I figured out it was a wire that I somehow puleed out of it's solder on one of the oval transistors near the lenses, and mounted to the metal chassis. I soldered it back, and everything was fine... Just thought you might want to check for any disconnected wires...
 

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The fact that you have no test grid should elliminate the input board.


Some more ideas:


Did you double check the G2/brightness/contrast controls?


Do you have any raster at all?


Are the CRT necks illuminating?


--Kieth
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes I do have a raster, and the CRT necks are illuminated. The brightness/contrast controls are maxed.
 
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