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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


I recently moved into a new apartment and decided a manual pulldown 92" Greywolf II was not going to cut it in this 17.5x15' living room. So I began planning this build out with no previous research on how it has been done by others (durr) as I like solving issues without assistance or influence, which isn't too smart if you are a politician, but fun for me.

First I mounted the projector in the kitchen (of course), peeking through a cutout designed for the now closed off heat register. A chromed tin cover protects from any residual heat that may leak out.



I then turned to the screen itself. I had originally thought of just hinging a screen strait down from the ceiling with a simple, light weight wooden frame held up by magnets. Over a few weeks of planning and sketching that transformed from wood to Extruded Aluminum, from strait down to cantilevered out over the TV and from magnets + gravity to Pneumatic Lift supports and Linear Actuators.

The screen material never changed in my mind. I was going to use spandex all along since I remembered someone mentioning it being good for screens (again no research but my own). I gathered a few samples and did my own testing and decided on Millskin IVORY over BLACK instead of the standard WHITE over SILVER I keep seeing recommended here. Darker blacks, more natural skin tones and no blue tint over dark areas as I was seeing with the pure white.

I used 7/16th OD Vinyl hose to secure the material into the side and back channels of the aluminum. The hose is rather stiff and had to be heated in HOT water before it could be pressed into the channels.

Total build cost was around $750 including all the hardware/precautions to wall mount this without destroying the walls (did I mention this is a rental for added challenge?)

I made a rather lengthy review video that goes over some more of the details even showing what the WHITE material looks like compared to the IVORY.
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I also have a gallery of shots from my NX1000 I took in the daytime showing how well the black levels hold up with the ivory over black combination.



HERE IS THE WHOLE GALLERY:
http://1drv.ms/1PwXEl1 (Daytime Shots)


[if there is a know set of manual camera settings you guys like having screen shots taken please inform me because I am quite amateur with cameras]

If you want a very very LONG and swear filled watch, I recorded six parts totaling 2+ hours of this screens build along with some on-camera brainstorming (with myself) concerning going 2.35:1 scope vs 16:9 and a section where I tested white, grey and the ivory spandex.


Part1 :

Part2 :

Part3 :

Part4 :

Part5 :

Part6 :


If anyone has questions or comments feel free to ask about anything you see in the videos or pictures.
 

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I have long thought about an extruded screen and what the benefits would be. I know cost is higher, but I fell the benefits outweigh the cost in some applications; this being one of them.

I'm interested the most in the ivory over black combo you're running. I've run grey over white in all my applications but this really makes me rethink that. I love having the speakers behind the screen; I think you can get more immersed in what you're watching.

Did you source everything (actuators and frame material) from Misumi? I have had my eye on them for quite some time. Did you order any pieces over 8ft? Was it extra to ship them?

Congrats on getting everything finally working. Time to enjoy of that hard work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Certainly the center speaker behind the screen is a must. I find the left and right need to be outside the screen edge however. Once a car, person, dog walks off screen the sounds moves fully to the left and right speakers so having them behind the screen is a bit jarring and unnatural. Best way to test this is unplug your center and watch a movie. You get no dialog but actually understand what the front speakers are doing.

Only the Frame, Brackets and Nuts were direct from Misumi. The blued M8x25 bolts, washers and lock washers I got from McMaster-Carr. The actuators, accessories and lifts came from a top seller on amazon. I have all the product links in the review videos description.

The longest pieces are the two 96" lengths top and bottom of the screen. I had considered longer pieces but the shipping would have had to switch to a freight order which made me reconsider. I don't recall what the actual cost difference was at the time.
 

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It looks like you are using a PC as a source. If you have a Nvidia GPU you should go into the Nvidia control panel and do a desktop resize so there would be no extra pixels being lit up beyond what is being projected onto the screen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It looks like you are using a PC as a source. If you have a Nvidia GPU you should go into the Nvidia control panel and do a desktop resize so there would be no extra pixels being lit up beyond what is being projected onto the screen.
The issue first (AMD 7970) but second I CAN send a cropped resolution to the projector of 1920x820. And it works great except my projector is too high and screen too low for the lens shift to put the CENTERED cropped image on my screen.

The way it is the bottom of the projector hits the screen and the entire top part is what is useless. There doesn't seem to be any known way of forcing windows to throw away just the top of a display instead of black on top and bottom.
 
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