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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got done hanging my 10PG, have it aligned pretty good so I though I would do a quick convergence, well I ran into a problem, when I go to the convergence menu I can not get the bow on the red and blue to align with the green, the PJ tells me I out of range. Are there any adjustments that can be done to get the red and blue more aligned with the green before I start to use the electronic controls. I deleted all entries. Is there a way to clear all the old data. I turned off the point convergence. Tried to use the normal button but that just takes me into the pin menu.


Help, Deron.
 

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Start by verifying you have your control plugs oriented to match your configuration. The control plugs orientation is different with every iteration of the PG chassis so you need a manual for a 6/9PG to get the correct orientation, a 6/9PG Plus or Extra manual will be wrong.

Secondly, if you have no "Normal" button, then you have the incorrect remote for the pj, it should be an RC6011, sounds like you have an XG remote (RC6321, I think).

I would lay money on your control plugs not being oriented to match your configuration being the cause of insufficient bow range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Paul


I will give the plugs a try, on the convergence connections there are no numbers on the board to tell me which way the connectors should go, I do have the 9PG manual though. Anyway to tell which way the plugs go if there are no numbers?


The picture reads correct, so I believe I have the horizontal and vertical polarity plugs correct.


I have the RC-6051 full function remote, there is a a normal button, but when I use it, it takes me into the pin function, everything else works correctly, so I not sure if is the wrong remote or not. The remote is brand new.


Thanks, Deron.
 

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From the back of the C-Drive board, furthest from the lenses, it should be: bluewire/redwire, bluewire/redwire, bluewire/redwire, then yellowwire/brownwire, yellowwire/brownwire, yellowwire/brownwire. The tube orders for those connectors are RGB from back to front.

You need an RC6011 remote to have the "Normal" button. It should appear beside your "Store" button.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Paul


What I have on my board is some letters, starting from the rear of the PJ is SB, SG, SR, DB, DG, DR. On the connectors to the wires I have SB (yellow/brown), SG (yellow/brown), SR (yellow/brown), DB (red/blue), DG (red/blue), DR (red/blue).


If that is not confusing enough, the 9PG manual says for "ceiling front" the wires should go in this sequance red/blue, yellow/brown.


Something is weird here, according to you the RGB starts form the rear, the board on my PJ says RGB front to back and you say blue/red starts at the rear of the PJ, the board on my PJ says yellow/brown starts at the rear.


I know the colors RGB are correct as they work correctly when I press the corresponding buttons (RGB) on the remote.


Are not these wires just so when you press the direction buttons on the remote that the image moves in the right direction?


Deron.
 

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Yes, but if you don't have the control plugs oriented to MATCH the scan plugs, you will run into the situation where there isn't enough range of adjustment. I think you have your brown/yellow plugs reversed. Take them out one by one turning each 180* so the colors positions are reversed(ie. yellow is in place of brown). It won't cause any damage if its wrong, but I don't think its wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Paul


I do think I have it all figured out as for the connectors, they just make sure your inputs to the remote move the image in the correct direction.


Starting at the rear of the PJ I have brown/yellow... and red/blue... and it's BGR starting from the rear of the PJ.


Everthing now moves in the correct direction.


As for the Bow being a problem, I found out that I'm limited to 100% of the total of Global and convergence. So if I use 60% global all I have left is 40% to converge the red or blue to the green. Go over the 40% and it says I'm out of range and will not move any further.


The problem I'm having is the red and blue have more bow then the green with everthing set to zero, I would think that they should be pretty much very close to being the same amount of bow.


I was hoping there was some pot for compensating for this, this could be a fixed value, but if it is they did not get it very close on this PJ.


Any ideas?


Deron.
 

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Hi Deron,


I followed you thread when you were moving the yokes around to compensate for focus etc. I would have a good look at that as the cause of the geometry problem. I have done the same thing in the past.


Mike
 

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Deron,

I would also look at the PINCUSHION and PIN-BALANCE settings. You could center the adjustments for BOW and PIN for R, G, & B. Then get BOW dialed in, then move on to PIN and PIN-BALANCE. The reason I suggest this is because you can adjust PIN-BALANCE to an extreme which makes it act like a BOW adjustment. If that's the case, your BOW might be fighting PIN enough to make things ineffective. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mike


You are right about the focus coils, they can be moved to remove some of the bow. I noticed that you rotate them to remove bow and move them fore and aft to center the bow.


Deron.
 

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Yeah I've been there before. I am going to change the STK chips on a buddies machine here, most likely next week to correct the focus issue. If you can I would do that then start over on the setup with the yokes tight to the tube bell. I will let you know how we make out on the other one. If you want to PM me I can give you my number and explain what has happened with your set.


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mike


I changed my STK chip, with no improvement. Although Curt says they go bad.


Are you talking about the deflection yoke, or the focus coil? Moving the deflection yoke which is against the the bell of the tube rotates or makes the image larger as it is pulled away, did not look like it affected anything else.


Deron.
 
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