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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been a LONG time viewer of this forum, and I have learned so much from so many. I am very excited, and I welcome any comments and suggestions as I go through this process.


I have built home theaters for other people, but this will be the first time I will be building one for myself. I am one who really likes to do my homework before I begin any project, and I have been working on the specs for this home theater since our house was built in 2009.


When I had the house built, I had them remove two windows from a corner of the basement that I knew I was going to put a home theater in. That means there are two concrete foundation walls (the front and the right from the perspective of coming in the doorway). The left wall is a 2x6 sheer wall covered in OSB, and the back wall is a standard 2x4 stud wall. The finished area would be roughly 12 x 18, just large enough to put in two sets of seats. We had them put in 9' ceilings in the basement, and I watched the contractor like a hawk to make sure I got them (it's now 9ft 3in from concrete floor to truss).


My wife's conditions were that she wants a loveseat / couch with a chaise or footstool in the second row to lay down on when she watches a movie. Taking this into account, I thought a 12in riser would be the best, so she could lay down and not look into back of heads.


After much contemplation, I decided I really wanted to create an 11.2 room. I know that it's a bit of overkill for a room so small, but I think home audio will catch-up soon and I'll be able to take advantage of the enveloping sound. Until then, I'll have the best system I can with what I can afford. I'm sure I'll upgrade at some point, but it's always nice to have the wires in the wall



I decided to do a modified room-within-a-room design. The two walls with concrete I think will be just fine with regular 2x4 sheetrocked, and the sheer wall I was planning on 2x4 wall double-sheetrocked with green glue. The back wall is the tricky part, but what I decided was to drywall the first wall, small gap, and then another 2x4 wall in front of that with double sheetrock and green glue. The other side of that wall is the kids play room, so I more want to keep their noise out more than I'm worried about keeping my noise in
The doorframe is a 2x6 32in door. I plan on replacing it with a solid-core door at some point, but since this one came with the house (I "borrowed" it from another room), it'll have to do for now.


Here is a list of the equipment I have picked out:


Projector: Panasonic PTAE8000U - Because I want 3.25:1 with lens memory for 16:9, and you really can't go wrong with that projector


Screen: DIY AT 130" diagonal 3.25:1 - Center Stage XD stretched over wood frame (frameless design) with black velvet surround hung directly on the wall.


Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR929 - I'm a big fan of Onkyo in the low to mid-range receiver market, and this one seems to have been created during a good year from the reviews I've read (Onkyo has a habit of creating a great receiver every other year, and one with glitches on the off years). It gives me the 11.2 I want (when paired with another amplifier), and has plenty of HDMI connections, and it's 4K passthrough (although by the time I'm ready for a 4K projector, I'm sure I'll be upgrading the receiver as well).


Speakers: Monoprice 6816 LR (8in 3-Way), 6317 Center (dual 5 1/4 micro-flanged), 6035 FWL, FWR, FHL, FHR, SL, SR, LRS, RRS (6 1/2 2-Way), Dual Dayton SUB-1200 Subwoofers (12in down-fire) - I know, not exactly an audiophiles choice for a 11.2 system, but after several budget installs and high-end installs, I can tell you from experience that the Monoprice speakers give you outstanding bang for the buck. Thanks to the advice from UGAd13, I was able to get the subs for $109 each. As this will be mostly used for viewing movies and sporting events, these speakers will deliver excellent performance, all for under $1000. I'll make sure I leave plenty of extra wire in the wall for upgrading the speakers when the time comes.


Seating: Front row Octane Turbo XL700 premium leather seating, and an Ikea Kivik Loveseat and Chaise (or a Kivik couch and a footstool - still debating on this one)


Media Center: HTPC Plex Home Theater client (I already have a server in the storage room), Xbox One, DirecTV Genie Client


I used Live Interior 3D to create a basic rendering of the home theater, and also created a 2D drawing. I'm not the best at using the software, but I think I got the main points.


I'm planning on having a tray ceiling (not in the rendering) with rope lighting. I will also have wall sconces, can lights and floor lights.


I've created a 20in equipment closet in the back, and will put the components on rack that will slide out for access. It will have a black fabric door to cover the opening. The closet will have an exhaust system to the outside with low RPM fans.


The riser will be approximately 6ft deep, which should provide enough room for the couch and to be able to walk beside and pull out the equipment rack. It will be 12in tall, with a 6in step in front, and a 6in step in the side.


The budget for this project will be $10,000. An 11.2 Home Theater that sounds great and looks fantastic for under $10K - not a chance you say? Hah! It's my mission to prove the nay-sayers wrong
I have already secured the projector, and thanks to a good deal I found I was able to get it for $2049. I was also able to secure the Onkyo on a killer deal for $850 (It was from a client and was in perfect condition. They decided they wanted to go with a higher-end Marantz after they could no longer return the Onkyo, so I offered to take it off their hands.)


3/27/14 - Modified to reflect the purchase of two 12" Dayton SUB-1200 subwoofers for $109 each from Parts-Express that to advice from UGAd13.

3/27/14 - Modified to reflect change to Center Stage XD and the smaller riser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
RESERVED FOR PHOTOS


Here are the preliminaries:








And the floor plan:




3/28/14 - Updated with changes based on suggestions from sdurani.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Initial Photos of Home Theater Space

Here are the initial photos of the home theater space I'm going to be using:















 

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In for one of the nay-sayers… Looks like you've a good plan to start – I’ll let the pros chime in with their thoughts. If it were me though I’d skip the 11.2 now and start with a solid 7.2; use some of that money towards better speakers and subs.


For subs you’ll want something with more oomph than those Polks, especially for watching movies. If you decide to stick with budget subs check out the Dayton Sub-1200 reviews ($109 when they’re on sale).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
sdurani -


Once the room within a room is done, the room will be 12' x 18' x 8' 5". This is assuming resilient channel in the ceiling with a OSB/Green Glue/Drywall sandwich.


UGAd13 -


I have considered just building a 7.2 system, and a 9.2 system. The problem I kept coming back to was that for the cost of the speakers, to move up to a level above the performance of the Monoprice speakers, a 7.2 system would still be around $1000 more than all 11.2 speakers from Monoprice. If installed correctly, the Monoprice speakers perform as well as many speakers priced at twice the cos. They can't match the performance of the next tier above that, which is usually in the $400-$500 per speaker range. This would completely destroy my budget, even with a 7.2 system. Yes, they are in-walls, and care has to be taken to create proper enclosures inside the wall with MDF or a good acoustical foam surround. But I can say from experience that when done right, these speakers really do sound spectacular.


I looked into the Dayton Sub, and I will probably be considering this again when it really comes time to buy them, because I was also considering the BIC 12" Sub as well. I really like the tightness of the bass response from the Polk, but I'll put some more thought into it. Thanks



EDIT: Oops, I meant 12' x 18' x 8' 5" - corrected above.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by macboyrules  /t/1524355/11-2-home-theater-on-a-budget-it-will-be-done#post_24532747


Once the room within a room is done, the room will be 12' x 18' x 8' 5".
Thanx. IF you haven't committed to seating location and speaker placement, consider placing the main row so that the listeners' ears are 6 feet from the back wall and placing the L/R speakers so that their woofers are centered 2 feet in from the side walls. If you're going to use in-walls subs, then I would place them on the front wall, at the midpoint of room height, centered 4 feet in from the side walls.


The above should go a long way towards smoothening out the low frequency response in your room (fewer/smaller peaks & dips), all before room treatments and equalization. The entire thing can be covered up by an acoustically transparent screen (within your budget if you buy the material from SeymourAV.com and build the frame yourself).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One thing I have learned from reading here is that it pays to be flexible and listen to good advice.
I haven't committed to seating, and your suggestion of moving the primary seating to the second row, and placing the secondary seating in the front row makes sense. I kinda forgot who was going to be the primary enjoyer of the room
As for the speakers, the photos weren't clear because the LCR speakers are actually behind the AT screen, but I was planning on placing them in the proper angles from the primary listening position. The other four on the front wall are the front wides and the front heights. The wides are going to be slightly short of suggested angle, but I've decided to change the front pillars to be angled on the corners so the wides will at least be angled into the room.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by macboyrules  /t/1524355/11-2-home-theater-on-a-budget-it-will-be-done#post_24536424


your suggestion of moving the primary seating to the second row, and placing the secondary seating in the front row makes sense
Actually, I was suggesting the opposite: make the front row the primary seating, 6 feet from the back wall, which means the back row ends up as the overflow seating, at/near the back wall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by macboyrules  /t/1524355/11-2-home-theater-on-a-budget-it-will-be-done#post_24536424


the LCR speakers are actually behind the AT screen, but I was planning on placing them in the proper angles from the primary listening position
That's fine, I was just suggesting locations that will allow the woofers in your speakers to do some modal cancellation and smoothen out the bass response across the seating area.
 

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Do you have pics of the theaters you've built? And have you considered the sofa on the front row with chairs on the risers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry, I don't have any pictures
I wish I did. Maybe I'll try and go visit them and take some pictures.


I did consider putting the sofa on the front row and the chairs on the risers, but in the end I think the new spacing based on the suggestions from sdurani will work.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani  /t/1524355/11-2-home-theater-on-a-budget-it-will-be-done#post_24533145


Thanx. IF you haven't committed to seating location and speaker placement, consider placing the main row so that the listeners' ears are 6 feet from the back wall and placing the L/R speakers so that their woofers are centered 2 feet in from the side walls. If you're going to use in-walls subs, then I would place them on the front wall, at the midpoint of room height, centered 4 feet in from the side walls.


The above should go a long way towards smoothening out the low frequency response in your room (fewer/smaller peaks & dips), all before room treatments and equalization. The entire thing can be covered up by an acoustically transparent screen (within your budget if you buy the material from SeymourAV.com and build the frame yourself).

I disagree with "sdurani" as far as in-walling a subwoofer.
 

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Your plan for the back wall sounds like you might be creating a tripple leaf, unless I misunderstood you. It sounds like you are planning to do this:


Play room DW| |DW gap | |DW+GG+DW


That would be bad. It shoud be this:


Play room DW| | gap | |DW+GG+DW


Do not put drywall on both sides of the play room's wall, just on the play room side. Leave the studs exposed on the side you are building your second wall and then DD+GG the theater side of the second wall.


If I misunderstood you, then disregard ths post.


-Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sean -


I'm sure the mistake was mine. I am in fact planning on Play Room DW | | gap | | DW+GG+DW as you pointed out.


Thanks for keeping me on my toes, though
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
hometheaterguy - I think what sudrani was suggesting was that IF I was planning on in-wall subs, where I might optimally place them. I am not, in fact, planning on in-wall subs, but have already purchased two Dayton SUB-1200s. They will be placed at the front of the room in stereo fashion, equally spaced from their respective walls. I haven't decided wether or not to build them into the pillars on the front wall, or just leave them completely free standing. Any suggestions on that? There are concrete foundation walls in one corner, and a foundation wall meets 2x6 OSB sheer wall in the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Construction Update 1

So, after a bit of a lull dealing with life ;) I have progressed.

A major change that was made was flipping the room for better seating and storage. After much discussion with my wife, we determined that it was just going to be too awkward getting into and out of the theater with the platform right next to the door as originally designed. As you can tell from the photos below, the flow is much better but I did loose so space in the front. I now have two closets in the back, one for the equipment, and another for fridge, microwave, and soda dispenser. I have finished most of the rough-in, including the rear platform.

I have also decided to make this a 9.2 (Heights) theater for now, because of the amount of space I have lost in the front due to flipping the room. If I can figure out later how to add the last two channels, or if the Atmos spec for home ever becomes a reality, I'll see what I can do. It's always fun to upgrade later ;)

I have about half of the wiring done at this point. I'm still on budget for everything so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Photos of the Construction

Here are the photos of the construction so far:




Here, I began the platform:





I basically built my own joists out of 2x4's, and nailed them together. I used brackets to screw the corners together, and OSB on top. It's very stable :)
Installed R30 pink fluffy, and I'm going to add vents in the back before carpeting. That should hopefully keep the base regulated.




 

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Here are the photos of the construction so far:


Here, I began the platform:



I basically built my own joists out of 2x4's, and nailed them together. I used brackets to screw the corners together, and OSB on top. It's very stable :)

I like the way you did the 2x4 framing for your riser. I will need to think about that as an option... a little more wood, but get to the height needed a bit easier (normal sizes don't match my needs).

I know a lot of people choose to build the Riser after the Drywall, in part I think to maintain the room envelope, and then in part, so if later someone wants to do something differently - it is just taking the riser out, and the walls/drywall would already be there.

Looks good!
 
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