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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I am getting a head start building the frame since the Silver spandex material is currently out of stock at Spandexworld.


Frame is built with 1x4 kill-dried polar. T and L brackets. Screen Tight caps and splines for attaching the spandex.


Here ya go! 54 x 96 (110")
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd used some clamps and square ruler to keep the joints together while I screw.


It made things a little easier!


At this point, I am not sure if it will be white over silver, or silver over white.


When I get the material, I will throw it up and take some measurements to see which looks better.
 

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Looks nice. As soon as i can more of basement construction done I will begin working on this project. as well. I have a few questions for you:


1. So is the frame 110" or is the viewing area after trim 110"?


2. How are you planning to mount to the wall? My plan is to make a french cleat out of 2X4 mounted to the 2 middle supports.


3. Are you concerned about the middle frame supports showing through the spandex?


Thanks,


Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks.


the screen is 110". there will not be trims. i'll create a false wall with black AT fabric.


i've already have a french cleat on my existing screen to mount it.


not concern with the middle supports showing. but i won't know until my project on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl1  /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22537188


Have any photos with the screen tight on?

What are you using for your black at fabric?


Not yet. I'll post some later with the screen tight attached.


I'd used JoAnn's black fabric in the past for my AT panels. Need to dig up my order to see exactly what I bought.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz  /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22539825


And here's the frame with tight screen caps attached.

I'll cut down the corner edges so they are squared.

]

Can you post a link on how this works. Do you apply snaps to the spandex?
 

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Discussion Starter #10

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Gleave  /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22543775


Can you post a link on how this works. Do you apply snaps to the spandex?


I am not sure what you're asking

Edit: Ok MM clarified.


You use a roller knife to pushed the spandex into the grove on the caps. Then you roll the spline onto it, to keep it secure.


I believe that's how the guys around here done it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Gleave  /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22543775


Can you post a link on how this works. Do you apply snaps to the spandex?[

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz  /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22543787


I am not sure what you're asking

He wants to know how the Spandex is attached to the "tight screen caps". Seems he thinks that some kind of Male/Female snap protocol is utilized.


I'm certain that it's a case of using a Round Rubber Strip inserted into a channel to secure the material, along the same lines as what is used when "re-screening" a Window Screen Frame.


I'm a little surprised your still undecided as to which material serves best as the "Top Layer". The Silver offers the best, most versatile performance, especially if the PJ in use has 1800+ lumen to work with. That has been pretty thoroughly ascertained at this point. Even if you have a PJ like a Epson 6010 or Panny 8000 with 200K to 500K Contrast going for it, the use of the Silver would both assure a better, more "contrasty" image under all conditions.


But hey.....nothing beats being sure than proving something to one's own satisfaction, so have a go at it and let the yearning masses know.
.


BTW, I'm pretty sure that you will have no "bleed through visual presence" of the inside vertical supports, but painting them White (...or silver...) will go a long way toward assuring that you don't. What is less than certain is as to if you might see any rise along the length of those vertical supports braces. It doesn't take much "rise" at any point to show up as a "Bump" or ridge if there is even a fractional difference in extra height between the vertical supports and the Outside Frame. Even the slightest "twist' down the road will show up as a vertical line. It is a shame though you didn't rout or chisel out a recess for the "Leg" of the center "T's" to rest in. All it would take is a recess as deep as the actual Hardware is thick to keep any possibility of there being any "surface transfer' of the wood. In fact, I'd say that is more of a concern than is as to if you get any visual Bleed through.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan  /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22543898


I'm a little surprised your still undecided as to which material serves best as the "Top Layer". The Silver offers the best, most versatile performance, especially if the PJ in use has 1800+ lumen to work with. That has been pretty thoroughly ascertained at this point. Even if you have a PJ like a Epson 6010 or Panny 8000 with 200K to 500K Contrast going for it, the use of the Silver would both assure a better, more "contrasty" image under all conditions.

But hey.....nothing beats being sure than proving something to one's own satisfaction, so have a go at it and let the yearning masses know.
..

Yes, I like gray. But I have an Epson 8100 with 1800 lumens (that sounds like a lot huh?). Not when you run your PJ in cinema mode and calibrated it to Rec 709. You be lucky if you have half of that lumens.


I went from white, to gray (like it a lot), to white (brightness). Why buy a meter if you're not gonna use it. Might as well throw up the material, project some patterns, and take quick measurements to make sure which works better with your PJ and desired settings before building it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan  /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22543898


BTW, I'm pretty sure that you will have no "bleed through visual presence" of the inside vertical supports, but painting them White (...or silver...) will go a long way toward assuring that you don't. What is less than certain is as to if you might see any rise along the length of those vertical supports braces. It doesn't take much "rise" at any point to show up as a "Bump" or ridge if there is even a fractional difference in extra height between the vertical supports and the Outside Frame. Even the slightest "twist' down the road will show up as a vertical line. It is a shame though you didn't rout or chisel out a recess for the "Leg" of the center "T's" to rest in. All it would take is a recess as deep as the actual Hardware is thick to keep any possibility of there being any "surface transfer' of the wood. In fact, I'd say that is more of a concern than is as to if you get any visual Bleed through.

Sadly, I am not a perfectionist.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz  /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22543952



Sadly, I am not a perfectionist.

Harrumph !





Well I've often found that many people who claim to not be perfectionist in nature complain the most bitterly when things are not what they expected them to be. Especially if someone else can be pointed to as to being the blame for their disappointment.


Go figure.



Just let you have to deal with a very obvious vertical line running through your image and I bet your standards will ramp up a bit.




BTW... 900 "calibrated" Lumens is a "LOT" of lumen output by anyone's method of measurement. The thing is....you would not be using REC 709 calibration on a Silver Gray screen.

A White surface? Absolutely.
 

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Discussion Starter #14

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan  /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22543993



The thing is....you would not be using REC 709 calibration on a Silver Gray screen.

A White surface? Absolutely


.

Now that is an interesting comment. I will have to explore further on this.
 

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Thanks, I haven't seen that product before. I rip a 1/8th dado into the back of the screen frame on the table saw, then apply fabric using the "round rubber strip" with a spline roller. I find that some fabric is quite slippery for my method.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looks like the moleskin silver is back in stock.


How many yards of spandex do i need for a 110" diag screen (96" length).


Will 2 yards do, or do I need 3 yards?
 

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i think other threads i read people going with 3 yards. Im going for a 100-106 and probably will order 3 yards, but if 2 is plenty by those in the know i will go less.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz  /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22552235


Looks like the moleskin silver is back in stock.

How many yards of spandex do i need for a 110" diag screen (96" length).

Will 2 yards do, or do I need 3 yards?

Always better to have more than enough than too little, as so far no one has discovered a way to "grow" additional Spandex.


Getting the degree of needed stretch out of Spandex still has limitations.
 
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