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I am getting ready to buy some Matte white with Gunmetal grey underneath as its all they have left in the greys. I will be using this room as a multipurpose so I want it to look good in ambient light as well. Is this color combo a good match for that.


I will have a 130~ diagonal 16:9 (about 115wide by 65 tall)


**Am I going to be okay with that height. I know it says 58/60 on the site, however how much does this stretch and how far is too much of a stretch??




thanks
 

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I am getting ready to buy some Matte white with Gunmetal grey underneath as its all they have left in the greys. I will be using this room as a multipurpose so I want it to look good in ambient light as well. Is this color combo a good match for that.


I will have a 130~ diagonal 16:9 (about 115wide by 65 tall)


**Am I going to be okay with that height. I know it says 58/60 on the site, however how much does this stretch and how far is too much of a stretch??




thanks
I'm interested in this answer as well. I have space enough for a 124" wide/70" tall/142" diagonal screen with closest side wall about 5ft away. I could easily go with a 2.35 but prefer the 16.9 due to watching more TV than movies. W1070 at 13.5 distance. 11.5 viewing distance

My thought was to keep the screen tight on the front vs. the back of the frame and then cover that with either black tape or black cloth.

Also, for better blacks it seems that everyone says white over black milliskin matte? i would need/prefer a darker/higher contrast picture in my non light-controlled environment. My walls are grey and dark grey in spots with a white ceiling that would be about 1ft away from the top of the screen (may paint it black if the wife let's me).

Thanks in advance your feedback.
 

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My thought was a black layer doesn't increase black level, but improve light scattering? Since spandex isn't really for ambient light, any light leakage, especially from behind will wash out. But if care is taken to prevent getting light behind the screen, even painting everything black behind, there's really no advantage over a light silver back. The only way to improve black level is silver on top, under ideal conditions.
 

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Thanks @Debonaire. Do you know if the 60" spandex can stretch to fit a 70" screen?

Thanks
 

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Thank you @ahajr143. Will be starting my project soon.
 

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Started working on a folding spandex screen a couple weeks ago. I'm still trying to decide how much added bracing it should need while trying to stay light and fast to disassemble.

The far right is how it looks folded up so far. It's a little surprising how well it managed to work out despite getting the pieces home and discovering that the tools I remember having available had poofed into oblivion.

Did you ever start a separate thread on your folding spandex screen attempt or is this as much progress as you've made ? It seems like the use of hinges with the pin on the outside of the frame will cause the spandex to deform in those areas.
 

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Did you ever start a separate thread on your folding spandex screen attempt or is this as much progress as you've made ? It seems like the use of hinges with the pin on the outside of the frame will cause the spandex to deform in those areas.
I made another trip to the hardware store with the plan being to get enough supports to hold everything straight and square, but ended up realizing it will likely need so many that it'll be really slow to open/close since every internal support needs some form of disconnect from the outer frame.
So for now I'm abandoning the project until the spirit of adventure returns.

Eventually I should just get the guts to grab the staple-gun and see how it all works out with only the pair of supports, but I'm hesitant to risk wasting the spandex for some reason.

There should be enough space in-front of the center hinges to attach the spandex "around" the hinge and cut it above the bump if there's a pucker or deform.
 

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I made another trip to the hardware store with the plan being to get enough supports to hold everything straight and square, but ended up realizing it will likely need so many that it'll be really slow to open/close since every internal support needs some form of disconnect from the outer frame.
So for now I'm abandoning the project until the spirit of adventure returns.

Eventually I should just get the guts to grab the staple-gun and see how it all works out with only the pair of supports, but I'm hesitant to risk wasting the spandex for some reason.

There should be enough space in-front of the center hinges to attach the spandex "around" the hinge and cut it above the bump if there's a pucker or deform.
I can see how you intended it to work, but I think you would need to rethink it a bit for it to be square when you were done. Possibly by having four half-width straight pieces of 1x6 across the rear of the top and bottom on the flat to establish straight top and bottom lines. They would need to be separate pieces with holes fitting over dowels attached to the rear of the horizontal hinged sections and the uprights holding everything square. With 1x6 top and bottom, I think two vertical uprights as you have would be enough.

I am surprised you didn't design the top and bottom with six sections each -- hinged to the side uprights and each center upright having a piece hinged to it on both sides so no disassembly was required, it would just accordion fold down to 10 thicknesses of 3/4" poplar the height of the screen. A bundle about 10" square including the straighteners. Pull each side out and attach the four top and bottom straighteners over the dowels. I might not even use hinges at the mid-sections where they collapse vertically toward the center of the screen, but just use the spandex to hold those sections together since the straighteners would be creating the actual strength for top and bottom. I'd make the screen 8" taller than viewable so I could slip 4" tall velvet sleeves over the top and bottom to hide and dimpling or wrinkling of the spandex near hinge points.
 

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Hello everyone! Ive been reading the thread and im ready to jump in. I will need some assistance. I have an Epson 3020 and will be using 3D on occasion. My room is 8ft10in wide by 8ft10in tall by 18ft5in long. I have complete control of the lighting.I can go bright or complete darkness. This will be a dedicated theater room. How big of screen can I go? What will the frame dimensions be? What color combo of spandex? How much spandex? how much lumber and what will the cut sizes be? if need more info, please ask as many questions. Im sooooo excited! Thanks to everyone who makes this possible!
 

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I am surprised you didn't design the top and bottom with six sections each -- hinged to the side uprights and each center upright having a piece hinged to it on both sides so no disassembly was required, it would just accordion fold down to 10 thicknesses of 3/4" poplar the height of the screen. A bundle about 10" square including the straighteners. Pull each side out and attach the four top and bottom straighteners over the dowels. I might not even use hinges at the mid-sections where they collapse vertically toward the center of the screen, but just use the spandex to hold those sections together since the straighteners would be creating the actual strength for top and bottom. I'd make the screen 8" taller than viewable so I could slip 4" tall velvet sleeves over the top and bottom to hide and dimpling or wrinkling of the spandex near hinge points.
My brain refuses to soak up a good mental image of this..you need to draw me a picture because it sounds amazing.

Grab a napkin and a pen, then grab your cellphone and post like the wind!
...and yes, it seriously took over a month for me to face-palm and simply ask.
 

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Hello everyone! Ive been reading the thread and im ready to jump in. I will need some assistance. I have an Epson 3020 and will be using 3D on occasion. My room is 8ft10in wide by 8ft10in tall by 18ft5in long. I have complete control of the lighting.I can go bright or complete darkness. This will be a dedicated theater room. How big of screen can I go? What will the frame dimensions be? What color combo of spandex? How much spandex? how much lumber and what will the cut sizes be? if need more info, please ask as many questions. Im sooooo excited! Thanks to everyone who makes this possible!
Do you need a Acoustic Transparent screen? If not you may want to consider this: http://www.carlofet.com/projector-screen-material/flexiwhite-projector-screen-material.html#.VOp1ji71hi0

If not:

  1. 110" Diagonal (96" x 54")
  2. Throw Distance "must be" 11'- 2" You'll need maximum brightness for 3D considering the Spandex surface being used.
  3. Frame should be 100" x 58" O.D. to allow for edge Triming
  4. Use Hand Picked Clear Poplar (no Bows...no Twists) 1 x 3s on "edge" for the exterior Frame...1 x 3s Flat for central supports.
  5. Pick up a Kreg Jig if possible to use for joining the Lumber to eliminate the need to Miter Cut...just good accurate "Square End" cuts.
  6. White over Silver Milliskin ( 3 yards of ea,) CALL to order it to come on a Roll, not folded http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/browse/33
  7. Use 1/4" T50 Staples and stretch the Milliskin just enough to keep it reasonable tight.

Now some of this your gonna have to determine to figure out / do yourself. Simply getting it all laid out for you won't go far toward you actually putting it all together.

Do you have Tools and any degree of wood working skills?
 

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My brain refuses to soak up a good mental image of this..you need to draw me a picture because it sounds amazing.

Grab a napkin and a pen, then grab your cellphone and post like the wind!
...and yes, it seriously took over a month for me to face-palm and simply ask.
I thought you'd dismissed it as a bad idea. Here is the requested proverbial 1000 words -- not precisely to scale. Rotate the drawing 90 degrees left. Top pic is the frame in a partially collapsed stage, bottom is in full width with straighteners attached. I did not show the fully collapsed stage which would just be 10 thicknesses of the 1x3s on edge. Because the 6 segments are each only 1/6th the width of the frame, even on a 2.40:1 ratio screen the top and bottom segments will not prevent complete collapse because each is less than half the frame height. The dowels on vertical pieces combined with the horizontal segments provide gusseting of the corners to hold it square. 1x3 wood for frame on edge and 1x4 wood on the flat for the straighteners. I would expect dimpling of the spandex around the hinge points, which is why I suggested making the screen 8 full inches taller than the viewable area so 4" high sleeves of black velvet would cover top and bottom and hide those dimples.
 

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Yes AT is where I want to be. I ordered millskin matte whir and silver. You mentioned throw. Is this the distance the PJ needs to be from the screen? Also, I'm painting the screen wall and ceiling black. Will a gray work for the other walls? Flat(matte) paint I'm assuming.
 

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Yes AT is where I want to be. I ordered millskin matte whir and silver. You mentioned throw. Is this the distance the PJ needs to be from the screen? Also, I'm painting the screen wall and ceiling black. Will a gray work for the other walls? Flat(matte) paint I'm assuming.
Actually a dark gray works fine for the screen wall and ceiling. Black tends to look dusty/dirty all the time and the dark gray looks black in a darkened room. Flat or matte is correct. Throw is the distance from the projector lens to the screen.
 

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I thought you'd dismissed it as a bad idea. Here is the requested proverbial 1000 words -
Nope, I was just being dumb. :D

I'll personally be sticking with 2 accordion segments instead of 3 because it seems to scale a little better with slightly taller aspect ratios..and I'm HOPING the strategically tight/blocked hinges (where I didn't screw up) will allow a couple of those dowel-points to get some assistance (likely not though). Otherwise, I'm totally going to try this or at least base something from it if the direct version escapes. ..it looks like yours would be a lot more stable than a couple vertical supports and crossed fingers.

How would you hold the doweled pieces together, pressure alone?
I guess one or two on each length could be replaced by a bolt and wingnut if nothing else.
 

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Nope, I was just being dumb. :D

I'll personally be sticking with 2 accordion segments instead of 3 because it seems to scale a little better with slightly taller aspect ratios..and I'm HOPING the strategically tight/blocked hinges (where I didn't screw up) will allow a couple of those dowel-points to get some assistance (likely not though). Otherwise, I'm totally going to try this or at least base something from it if the direct version escapes. ..it looks like yours would be a lot more stable than a couple vertical supports and crossed fingers.

How would you hold the doweled pieces together, pressure alone?
I guess one or two on each length could be replaced by a bolt and wingnut if nothing else.
Having a single vertical support in the center and top and bottom with 4 segments would work as long as you stayed below a 2.0:1 AR. Maybe with a double thickness center post so there was room for the gusseting dowels for both straighteners at the center as well as the sides.

I would use fairly hefty hinges where there are hinges because they must keep the 1x3 from twisting under the spandex vertical tension. I would clamp up the whole thing (except no spandex) with the straighteners in place, then use a pilot drill to start holes through the straighteners and into the 1x3 segments and then STOP. Then I would unclamp everything, collapse it into its tidy bundle shape, and use a drill press for the full-dowel-sized holes to be sure they were perfectly square and plumb and 1 1/2" deep. Then glue the 3" dowel pieces into the 1x3 frame segments so they extended a full 1 1/2" out, ie 3/4" further than the thickness of the 1x4 straighteners. When assembled, I'd expect the snug fit and the extra dowel length to hold the straighteners in place without needing screws and wing nuts. If anywhere needed screws and wing nuts, I'd expect it to be to either side of where the segments meet in the middle and I was using just spandex as a hinge rather than an actual metal hinge. That is where I'd worry the spandex tension would twist the 1x3 away from perpendicular to the straighteners. If you are using hinges at all points, then I doubt you'll need screws and wing nuts anywhere.
 
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Thank you guys for the help. I'll be checking in once the screen material arrives just incase I have any questions. Hopefully it will arrive before next weekend. I'm off and was hoping to build the screen. My fusion 12 temptest are almost done. A couple of crossovers and lining of the cabs and they will be complete. Once again thanks.
 
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