12” Sub/Driver recommendation for 250W Triad Amp please.

Thanks for the reply. I went with the Dayton 12 DVC, and I designed a box this weekend based on the specs given to me by WINisd. The subwoofer has been ordered but it wont be here until late this week.


I have one more question though, I stained this box Ebony Brown, and I added some nice trim to cover the screw locations and make it a bit more presentable, but then I had a thought so here is my question, and a Picture to clarify.


Can I add some feet to my box and point the woofer at the carpet? I was thinking off adding a pillow top to the box and putting feet on it to make it look like a piece of furniture, or a foot stool type appearance. Is this feasible, or will it distort the sound in some way? If it is feasible, what would the minimum length of the feet need to be, I.E. How far off of the ground do I want the make sure the subwoofer face is?




Thank you much,


-Robert

These are the only details I have on the amp;


Amplifier :

250 watt amplifier into 4 ohms.


Left & right channel inputs with

volume control for deepest frequency

extension, or mono sub input with fixed

gain configured for highest output from

40-80 Hz.


Two adjustable 12dB/Octave low pass

filters (24 dB total).


Adjustable phase control: 0° to -180°.


Left & Right Highpass Outputs

(fixed 100hz / 12dB slope).





However I already finished this box, just waiting on the speaker now, so i will see how it sounds atleast before I go to plan B. If I call Triad to get info on this amp, what do i want to ask them?


Any input using the current box with the driver facing down?



Thank You.

I don't think you'll have any issue running the DVC downfiring, looks ok in Unibox, too.

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That's interesting, and allows you some flexibility. Sounds like the mono input has a steep filter set higher to allow more headroom in the specified 40-80Hz octave (rolling off the lower octaves), while the stereo inputs seem to allow deeper extension at the cost of some headroom/output (the "music" input, if you will).

If you only have a mono subwoofer output (likely with a HT receiver), I'd split it using a "Y" RCA adapter and connect to the L/R inputs (it may also work fine connecting to just left or right as they're summed internally). I think that'd result in the best extension, and the DVC probably doesn't need all the protection the original 10" driver did. Of course, try the other input also and see what you get.

Okay, I called Triad, here is the scoup….


It is confirmed a type-AB 250W 4 Ohm RMS amp for sure. Built in December of 2000


He said the mono “theatre†input on the amp was originally designed to meet THX specs of some kind, and the frequency is contained in the 80-35 realm. He said it is also a fixed level and you loose both crossover adjustments and the gain adjustment on that input.


He said the L/R channel inputs do have some equalization built into them, specifically to “boost†the lower ends of the band. The amp also has some kind of “protection†for distortion or something along those lines.


He said there are internal jumpers on the cards inside the amp, that can be moved to enable/disable or change these effects. He also mentioned something about 2 crossovers with 12db each, making it 24 db total when both are on … This totally confused me, I have no clue really what that means.


He said if I match the jumpers on the “theatre†input card to the L/R channel card the theatre jumpers should be setup for a flat frequency response if I want the EQ to be off.




I’m sorry a lot of this is over my head, that’s the best I can explain the foreign terms I was hearing.



Jack Gilvey, I have my current little sub hooked up from L/R front channel Pre-outs. With my primary speaks set to large and my LFE channel being directed to “front†this is mainly because my sub right now is so weak …. So you are saying I should definitely go LFE channel only with this new sub setup right? I fully understand the splitter your talking about etc, the connection info I understand, the terminology I don’t.



Thanks a lot for the help you two. Much appreciated.

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The THX spec for subs is something like -6dB @ 35Hz. Yuck.

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Makes sense. The "natural" response in that little box is probably not very deep. It might be fun to try your sub with the eq, though, just to see...

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He's referring to the "slope" of the crossover, or how quickly it rolls off response above or below a given frequency. A shallow, 12dB/oct (decibels per octave) slope might be appropriate in some cases for a good blend with the mains, while other speakers might work better with the steeper, 24dB/oct. setting.

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Can you see these jumpers...does it look do-able?

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If you can defeat the eq,etc. mentioned above on the "theater" input, I'd go with that input taking the "LFE out" from your receiver with all speakers set to "small" and crossover set to 80-100Hz if adjustable. This will allow maximum dynamic range from your system. Again, experimentation is free, but the above usually works better than directing all the bass to the mains in addition to the sub. No reason to strain the mains with bass the sub can handle just as well or better.

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Sho' thang.

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In that case you're all set to start posting reviews.

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Well, the cheapest way would be to buy an SPL meter at Radio Shack and download ,burn, and manually plot the tones found here .

Lots of ways to go up from there, but the program True RTA along with a mic and USB interface for the PC will be incredibly accurate and fast for ~$200 depending on mic/interface.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=572477


Flush-mounting the driver is purely for aesthetics in a subwoofer.