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12 spaced out will be amazing too. You'll have all that headroom at 40hz and up, really 30hz:D, AND get the room gain for down low. There's so many possibilities with these drivers at the price and their required depth.

Yup. That’s what the goal is.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (so ignore any typos grammatical errors because my iPhone predictive text stinks)
 

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For the record I don't have 16 drivers for mid-bass. 8 drivers would even be more than enough. I did it simply for ULF. The unlimited mid-bass is just a plus. My Raptors still displace a good bit more air then the Adam Bombs(aka the JBL's) but to have any decent ULF I needed 16 because 6db below 25hz or so is a huge difference. It's even more apparent the lower you go compared to say 30hz and up.....and you need gobs of air to do it. With my depth constraints this made sense.
 

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I was wondering the same thing. I was planning four CS1214's behind the seats (now maybe eight. Dang you Madaeel) and then two ported 18's up front. I'm wondering if I even need to bother with the 18's up front except to reach a little lower and then EQ them down above 30 or 40Hz. I may try just the near field out for awhile, hope it's not to localized, and see what happens before pulling the trigger on the 18's.
Sorry.:cool:

Like I said for myself I needed that many for ULF effects. 4 should be fine but IF you go with 8 you'll know you have headroom. I can't remember the last time anyone in the DIY section said they went to far.:)

Yup. That’s what the goal is.


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That's gonna be a killer system for cheap too. Would be cool to do a DBA with 32...
 

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For the record I don't have 16 drivers for mid-bass. 8 drivers would even be more than enough. I did it simply for ULF. The unlimited mid-bass is just a plus. My Raptors still displace a good bit more air then the Adam Bombs(aka the JBL's) but to have any decent ULF I needed 16 because 6db below 25hz or so is a huge difference. It's even more apparent the lower you go compared to say 30hz and up.....and you need gobs of air to do it. With my depth constraints this made sense.
Modeling these things in Winisd, for me anyway, shows them down about 20db by the time you get to 20Hz. Granted, at 20Hz, four drivers are still at 100db, but from 60Hz on it's at around 123db. Do you just EQ-down above 20Hz? How do you get ULF out of these?

PS. By the gods, I finally figured out your username :)
 

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Modeling these things in Winisd, for me anyway, shows them down about 20db by the time you get to 20Hz. Granted, at 20Hz, four drivers are still at 100db, but from 60Hz on it's at around 123db. Do you just EQ-down above 20Hz? How do you get ULF out of these?

PS. By the gods, I finally figured out your username :)
For now yes. I have eq boosting the low end. You have to when subs are near-field since they resort back to their anechoic response. Depending on your box size it'll be better or worse. Mine is worse since I went too small on the enclosure. In the preferred size and Qtc they drop at the normal 12db per octave. However, even with the slope worse than that it still feels amazing since it's an inch from the couch. Pro's and cons.:D

Haha it'd be easier if my name was public...
 

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Not a near-field solution due to size, but an interesting comparison anyway.
Four cabinets with 12's in a 1500 cubic feet room.
5 cubic feet each tuned to 23 Hz driven by a NU3000DSP at 4 ohms / channel. 20 Hz hi-pass.
I think the system is power limited at this point but never see the clip lights in real world use anyway so no issue.

 

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Why what? I'm not sure what your question is...

The Bossobass FP9K I'm using now is for my wife's sub upstairs. I'm just borrowing it till I see what I need. My options are limited though and idk if Dave will sell me another amp. He's done a lot for me already and if he chooses not to I don't have a problem with it. The only other amp that I trust to work, and has a 12v trigger:D, is the SpeakerPower amp.
Ahh, got it. I thought you meant the move from FP9K to SP2-8000 would be a upgrade, but the specs say otherwise. I think you are good either way, so carry on :)


And my point of doing this was for TR. I had midbass TR with the Behringer B1200D and some LFE TR with the PSA, but none of them compare to the JBL’s. Much more TR and also over the whole LFE range. Simply a more effective way.
 

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Modeling these things in Winisd, for me anyway, shows them down about 20db by the time you get to 20Hz. Granted, at 20Hz, four drivers are still at 100db, but from 60Hz on it's at around 123db. Do you just EQ-down above 20Hz? How do you get ULF out of these?

PS. By the gods, I finally figured out your username :)
Pretty much what most of us do. I'm running a +12db low shelf filter starting at 40hz hehehehehe..... With that said, I dont have the amp cranked either so I actually have the wattage heardroom to run it at that. If I had the gain all the way up, then I'd have to lower the amount.

Alternately I could run the gain up all the way and then cut the crap out of the frequency response from 40hz on up to even it out.

Also a couple things worth mentioning.

1. WinISD doesn't account for room gain , so depending on where you plan to locate your subs you need to keep that in mind when looking at SPL numbers in WinISD.
2. WinISD assumes everything is co-located, so if I graphed all 12 drivers in 18cf (which is accurate to what I'm building) the SPL would be very very wrong as it assumes all 12 are a single unit rather than 4 distinct unit
 

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Modeling these things in Winisd, for me anyway, shows them down about 20db by the time you get to 20Hz. Granted, at 20Hz, four drivers are still at 100db, but from 60Hz on it's at around 123db. Do you just EQ-down above 20Hz? How do you get ULF out of these?

PS. By the gods, I finally figured out your username :)


is there a lot of useful information at 20hz?


if there is, how much impact does it add to the overall sound?
 

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It would add more to feel than sound at that frequency.
Intro to Edge of Tomorrow, for example.
Michael
 

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I'm just pointing out another way of accomplishing the same thing.
As long as it works.
:)
Not really. The thread you linked is only useful for ported boxes. Since most of us are running sealed, we have no high pass filter we are trying to push down lower.

It does show a shelf filter, but its being used in conjunction with a highpass filter, which isnt the same.
 

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I'm aware of that. This is different. I'm running something like this (only mine is now 12 instead of 15 hehehehe)
Jiminy crickets Ender! I like it.:cool:

Having headroom for those low-shelf boosts is a beautiful thing. Things are actually getting better with my mum so I hope to get REW up and running in the next weekend or two and post some graphs and also try my hand at JRiver...
 

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I'm aware of that. This is different. I'm running something like this (only mine is now 12 instead of 15 hehehehe)
Yeah, i am probably at about the same boost with mine.
 

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Im seriously considering running 8 of the cs1214's behind my couch, or 4 in each front corner stacked floor to ceiling.

As far as amp goes, crown xls2502 was my thought. so 300 watts a peice, or a inuke 6000?

Seem like a good idea? Box size around 1.25 cuft each sealed? or larger?

EDIT: btw, all these will replace my other subwoofer for my main source of bass. Nearfield would probably be best? Also it looks like 1.7 cuft per?
 

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I was going to run 4 of them in a box and started out thinking 1.7cuft each (I read where someone else was doing that). Playing around with it in Winisd you can get the Qtc down to 0.707 at 4.2cuft each. Not having built a DIY yet myself, I'm not sure if it's sonically worth chasing a Qtc of 0.707. Maybe someone else will chime in. The resulting enclosure volume for 4 drivers would be 16.8cuft which is still doable for me. Oh, and cone excursion is a *thing* at that size but it looks like 1.7cuft each is ok (no hpf needed). So would the addition of the required hpf for the larger enclosure size (to chase Qtc of 0.707) negate the benefits? I don't know. I probably just need to start building these things and learning for myself how things sound :)
 

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For the price it's a brilliant idea. I'll just answer you here @trilkb. Yes 4 of those 1214's should match and slightly exceed one UM-18.....as long as you put them in the right size box. I'd definitely go larger than 1.25. If you can do 1.7 or 2cuft per driver then you can easily drive them to Xmax too.

I have 16 behind my couch but 8 would definitely be enough as I haven't gotten them to Xmax yet. I can say without a doubt 8 of em in 1.7-2cudft driven by an iNuke or Crown will be pretty damn good. Now if you could do 4 in each corner and another 8 behind you I promise you'll never upgrade again.:cool:
 

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Thanks for the reply!

I'm going after better room response, it's always a downfall to running one sub. Plus listening to music is rare but sealed subs do so much better then low ported subs.

Just to clarify on amps, either will work and you don't need a highpass filter? (I really like that idea). And ~2 cuft per sub sealed is good to go. Just so if anyone reads this they know recommended box sizes.

I may meet halfway and run 4 nearfield and 2 in each front corner lol. It's hard for me to grasp the reason to run anything else if you're running something big nearfield. 8 nearfield seems better then 4 nearfield and 4 upfront in my mind, the 4 upfront are more effective nearfield so why run them? I am curious how 4 and 8 compares to my quadhorn, that thing blew my mind when i first got it going and it still does from time to time. I use an ottoman and it gives great tactical feel with my horn, heck the couch does too. I'm only good safely to 18/19Hz though and would like to go lower safely

The 8 12s seems like a great all around option for music/movies/midbass/ULF it's rare to have potentially one big box on one amp that can do everything.
 
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