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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Watch this space, Later today I will post up images of the construction of a 134" diagonal screen consisting of two pieces of Drywall joined together (screwed onto an existing wall) and Taped/Mudded/Primed


116" x 65" w/ SF 3.0 formula applied with a Wagner Control Spray "Plus" shooting a thicker viscosity Mix that normal.


To also show a time line, one needs only consider the amount of time between this first posting and the first time you actually see a projected image. A total of no more than 48 hours from start to finish. Heading out now to hang and mud the drywall.


04-01-10 Diagram & Photo update

OK...,


The Illustration below depicts how the two pieces of Drywall were joined. I used a 120" x 48" piece, and cut another 120" x 48" down to just 17" high, with the Factory tapered edges making the Union. As shown, the only Drywall screw fasteners used on the drywall were around and within a 1.5" perimeter area of the Screen, and across/inside the two tapered areas that adjoined each other.


You will notice I placed NO drywall screws within the projected Screen area. Also NO glue or adhesive was used as a supplement to the Perimeter screws.


When screwing the two "unions' together, it was easy to be certain the "joint" aligned perfectly by simply adjusting the depth of the Screws wherever needed, after each was run in until they dimpled the Drywall and held the Drywall flush against the rear surface. When I finished, the two edges aligned perfectly. I then applied a single width of Fiber Mesh Dry Wall Tape over the Horizontal Joint. All the perimeter screws received a coating of Mud, but just a token sanding because they are to be covered by the upcoming Black Velvet Trim overlay.




The 1st Photo shows the two pieces of Drywall already joined, taped, and with the first coat of Mud on the joint.




This 2nd Photo shows the Joint after sanding. Note how at places the sanded area has uncovered the straight edges of the Tapered area. To hasten things along, I did apply a thicker than normal initial coating of Mud. I paid for my haste by seeing several cracks in the mud after it had dried. THAT is why I had to sand enough that the straight edges of the tapers became apparent. Patience is a definite virtue when applying Drywall mud.




All-righty then....this 3rd Image shows the "Third" coat of Mud after the 2nd coat has been sanded smooth and the edges flush. You can clearly see the amount of sanding done by the "sweep marks" above and below the mudded area. Things are lookin' Mighty Flat.

 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Really just this AM started woking on it. Drywall is finished, two coats of Kilz-2 applied (1 "out of the Can" rolled & sanded - 1 Thinned w/Water & Sprayed & sanded ) End result was a very smooth, even surface across 120" diagonal




Mixing up at least a 3.0 if not a 4.0 SF Mix between now and 15 minutes....then I spray. Already lots to share (Pic & Vids)....more coming soon. Spraying should be complete just after Noon Eastern.


It is my hope that this example will further encourage any "Fence Sittin' " DIY'ers that inexpensive BIG Screens can be both esily made, and perform beyond expectations.
 

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Hey, come on, it's already close to noon--you ought to be done by now.



I'm just wondering--do you do this as a business or fun? Where do you find the time...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/18270477


Really just this AM started woking on it. Drywall is finished, two coats of Kilz-2 applied (1 "out of the Can" rolled & sanded - 1 Thinned w/Water & Sprayed & sanded )


Mixing up at least a 3.0 if not a 4.0 SF Mix between now and 15 minutes....then I spray. Already lots to share (Pic & Vids)....more coming soon. Spraying should be complete just after Noon Eastern.


It is my hope that this example will further encourage any "Fence Sittin' " DIY'ers that inexpensive BIG Screens can be both esily made, and perform beyond expectations.

mman,,,, YOU GO BOY!.... let me know how it goes..... is there any way to spray before putting the pieces on the wall? My whole thing is that I cannot spray inside.... I have to be either in the garage or outside and then bring the finished pieces inside.


I'm just thinking now maybe I can make a frame out of wood and then screw the drywall onto the frame, then spackle, and prime, and spray, etc, ...what do you think?


I've been wondering how to find a 'substrate' that is about 115" diagonal all in one piece, but maybe 2 pieces spackled very well might do the trick!
 

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MM. I'm glad your doing this application. I can't wait for your results. I was taking Silver Fire off my list becuase I have not seen any application on dry wall. I'll be interested in hearing your oppion of this vs S-I-L-V-E-R and RS Mudd.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well OK....Murphy's Law has stalked my time frame.


90% of this trip is "Pleasure" as well as communing with a Fellow AVS'er. But the SUV I was driving decided to make it an ordeal.


Go to the store for something to drink. (...guess what...) Come back out....Car would not start. Tried to Jump in Convienience Store parking lot for 3 hours.
Call for a ride and just leave it there....go back and sand and squirt. Ooops, didn't have Pour Lid on Gallon can tight...spilled SF down my Leg onto Warehouse floor.
Nice mess. Blessed be Water based Paint.


Go to Costco for battery. Ain't got no......go "miles away" to Sears....Battery costs $100.00



Take to Car & install...zoom, starts up. Drive to place I'm staying. Dismiss my ride. Take shower, change, going back to paint another coat.


Car won't start.



No ride. Finally get back to Screen at 9:30 pm. Good coat. Falling asleep on feet from nervous exhaustion. Go home, bedroom /Bed INFESTED (as in thousands) with Ladybugs.
Only in New Jersey....the Garden State.



So now...going back for last coat...image up by Noon today.


.....is that a siren I hear? Dam breaking? Nuclear Attack alert? Who knows......, after all I AM in 'Jersey.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/18276665


Falling asleep on feet from nervous exhaustion. Go home, bedroom /Bed INFESTED (as in thousands) with Ladybugs.
Only in New Jersey....the Garden State.
.

Lady Bugs? You sure they weren't bed bugs. After all, you was in Joisey...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by threed123 /forum/post/18280743


Lady Bugs? You sure they weren't bed bugs. After all, you was in Joisey...

Back home.


Oh, they were Ladybugs fer shur. Craziest thing really. I am talking about "THOUSANDS". No foolin'
Actually they could be harvested and sold to Gardening/Hydroponic Supply Stores. They do not go for cheap.



After all the mayhem and car issues, I did get the Screen done and a image splashed up on it...about 2.5 hours before my flight out.
I have 260+ Photos and a few Movies to download. Just made it home to the Wife...and she's glad to see me. So instead of roiling the waters like usual and devoting my quality time to the PC/Forum, I'm going to go cuddle up and keep the domestic bliss potential high.


But I will be baaaaack. late this PM fer sure with goodies galore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Who could resist being late for work over these beauties at 135" diagonal.


All images taken in the same lighting...sun light coming from the rear left about 60' away.

13.8' throw

Epson 9100 pro

Full Lamp (20 fls)
NO Iris engaged. (..we don't need no stinkin' Iris!)



Diva on stage



LeeLoo surprised



23rd century Fuzz



Bruce and Attendant



A Dandy Bruce



Bruce and LeeLoo w-Multi-Pass



A LeeLoo composite in ambient light -Zoomed and not.
 

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mman,


I'd love to see some comparision shots between Silver Fire and matte white dark and ambient, and silver fire vs. Behr SS plus poly in particular to see 'what I'm missing' =)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/18276665


Well OK....Murphy's Law has stalked my time frame.


90% of this trip is "Pleasure" as well as communing with a Fellow AVS'er. But the SUV I was driving decided to make it an ordeal.


Go to the store for something to drink. (...guess what...) Come back out....Car would not start. Tried to Jump in Convienience Store parking lot for 3 hours.
Call for a ride and just leave it there....go back and sand and squirt. Ooops, didn't have Pour Lid on Gallon can tight...spilled SF down my Leg onto Warehouse floor.
Nice mess. Blessed be Water based Paint.


Go to Costco for battery. Ain't got no......go "miles away" to Sears....Battery costs $100.00



Take to Car & install...zoom, starts up. Drive to place I'm staying. Dismiss my ride. Take shower, change, going back to paint another coat.


Car won't start.



No ride. Finally get back to Screen at 9:30 pm. Good coat. Falling asleep on feet from nervous exhaustion. Go home, bedroom /Bed INFESTED (as in thousands) with Ladybugs.
Only in New Jersey....the Garden State.



So now...going back for last coat...image up by Noon today.


.....is that a siren I hear? Dam breaking? Nuclear Attack alert? Who knows......, after all I AM in 'Jersey.

makes me feel good that you're not an expert of every technical thing on the planet
if you had been a car-guru as well as a projector guru i would have felt pretty small
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello /forum/post/18293685


mman,


I'd love to see some comparision shots between Silver Fire and matte white dark and ambient, and silver fire vs. Behr SS plus poly in particular to see 'what I'm missing' =)

mman, any updates? I want to try and see how much of an 'upgrade' I would get between Silver Fire vs. Behr SS plus 25% poly that I currently have...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello /forum/post/18370294


mman, any updates? I want to try and see how much of an 'upgrade' I would get between Silver Fire vs. Behr SS plus 25% poly that I currently have...

Well Sir,


...at the time the images were taken there was almost no time left on my schedule to consider any comparisons, although had there been, it would of been against a SONY ChromaView 80"er.


A comparison between SS w/Poly and the similar shade in SF would pretty much make the SS look deadly dull in comparison....at any size or lumen level.


That...and there would be a significant difference in Ambient Light performance, the quality and vibrancy of Whites and Colors.....things that a simple Gray w/Poly just cannot accomplish.


You have to realize the use of Poly in SS, or any Neutral Gray is intended to ramp up reflectivity of the screen's surface to at least something close to 1.0 gain. It does this (...when introduced as part of the actual paint....) by introducing a slightly higher sheen (...very slight in the correct amounts...) and imparting a small increase in the translucency of the surface paint.


To that effect, such a Screen, when hit with a PJ with decent lumens can produce as best an image as a simple Gray can possible achieve.

SF is not a simple Gray. The RGBY components that comprise the Gray in SF are held in a suspension....leastwise to a far greater degree than a Gray that is comprised of the normal 2 tints used. Those Grays are more akin to a solution...a mix of tints and base that meld together to a greater degree to create a more opaque mix.


The more loosely held, suspended components both react more intensely to incoming light (individually) and do so by presenting more of a specific "colored" surface to such light, increasing the reflectivity of that particular component. Simple Grays just don't perform in this manner, leastwise not at the level a Gray comprising of RGBY elements mixed in a quantity of water based Poly and pure Water can/will do. The other factor is the considerable amount of additional reflective components; Silver Metallic and White Pearlescence. SS certainly does not contain any of those (...unless I told someone to add 'em...
) All that additional reflectiveness also helps the light reflected off the RGBY components to be effectively reintroduced back towards the viewer, as well as distribute illumination more throughly throughout the Poly-infused coating.


All of that is what make SF develop a "positive" gain, something none of the N'Grays possess. Combined with the fact that those aforementioned attributes also allow for the use of even darker shades of Gray than most anyone else would dare attempt to use with a N'Gray and the end result is a vibrant, color correct image that also combats the intrusion of Ambient light.


Even better, in the Dark, SF has a "Plasma TV" quality about it's appearance, something that was affording users a "3-D like" effect for quite a long time before such observations were being made with the newer, brighter, 1080p PJs.


Lastly, when SF is combined with the use of a 1/8" Mirrored substrate, very dark Gray shades were/are possible using normal levels of luminosity (1000 to 2000 lumens) and the "3-D'ism becomes all the more remarkable.


None of that is possible using a simple N'Gray w/Poly. And even with 2000+ lumens on hand, a N'Gray w/Poly will still mute Whites and affect the colors of a projected image to far greater an extent than SF will/does.


Now to qualify those statements beyond saying all that is something I personally know and have experienced many times in the past...let me state that without a personal inspection and evaluation of the difference, someone who owns a well done N'Gray w/Poly Screen that is effectively matched up with a decent PJ, and is viewed under the right circumstances (lighting...room colors) isn't going to be able to do much more than take the word of those who have in fact "been there, seen that". But even so, they will also most likely not let such protestations sway their opinion that the Screen they have is "Just fine, thank you very much.". And if they are gloriously happy...it shouldn't.


You bet Screenies can show up that difference though...and it's been done before. But mostly it's been a case between a "White" and a SF Gray.* That is/was what most wanted to see for quite some time until it became more popular for some to say that such comparisons were unfair to a N'Gray. Just keep in mind, I'm not among those who have fallen back on that safety net because quite frankly, it almost doesn't apply to SF Screens at all.



I never hesitate for any willing AVS member to call my bluff and do up a SF Screen as directed....I never have worried as to if what I tell 'em will be will come to be.


To that effect, if such was not the case and there existed a raft of unhappy Campers out there, you can believe they'd be out in force anytime/every time I post to the contrary. Instead, the only people who do post up negatives are those who have never done up a SF Screen, who are defending the applications they have found to work quite well for them (...understandable and Ok in itself...) and who basically don't agree (...or appreciate...) reading how something....really almost anything....might be "mo Bedder' than what they are using.



Used to was, only those with expensive Mfg Screens were guilty of such rhetoric. But in reality, it's the increase in both PJ quality and more effective DIY screen solutions that have made that happen with more frequency among prideful DIY'ers.


All in all, something that really isn't all that bad because it shows that a awful lot of DIY Screen makers are pretty darn pleased and happy with the Screens they have made up.


Now as for myself, "pleased and happy" just don't cut it.
Ya gotta be overwhelmed....ecstatic..."Drop Jawed Amazed". Yessir.



So...unless you make up a SF batch and match the shade of it to your current screen, paint up a $12.00 Thrifty White Hardboard screen, and make the comparison yourself, you'll probably NOT want to wait around until you see it done by someone else. All I can offer is a resounding "Go For It !!! You'll be weally, weally glad you did!"



Well that...and all the other stuff I just laid on ya.



*There is a thread I authored from back around 07' where I compared SF/BW/SS/N'G/White. It showed SS holding it's own against everything "but" SF, but that SS had no Poly in it. Pissed a few people off if I remember correctly, but lifted SS up to a level of acceptance it never had reached before.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/18371066


Well Sir,


...at the time the images were taken there was almost no time left on my schedule to consider any comparisons, although had there been, it would of been against a SONY ChromaView 80"er.


A comparison between SS w/Poly and the similar shade in SF would pretty much make the SS look deadly dull in comparison....at any size or lumen level.


That...and there would be a significant difference in Ambient Light performance, the quality and vibrancy of Whites and Colors.....things that a simple Gray w/Poly just cannot accomplish.


You have to realize the use of Poly in SS, or any Neutral Gray is intended to ramp up reflectivity of the screen's surface to at least something close to 1.0 gain. It does this (...when introduced as part of the actual paint....) by introducing a slightly higher sheen (...very slight in the correct amounts...) and imparting a small increase in the translucency of the surface paint.


To that effect, such a Screen, when hit with a PJ with decent lumens can produce as best an image as a simple Gray can possible achieve.

SF is not a simple Gray. The RGBY components that comprise the Gray in SF are held in a suspension....leastwise to a far greater degree than a Gray that is comprised of the normal 2 tints used. Those Grays are more akin to a solution...a mix of tints and base that meld together to a greater degree to create a more opaque mix.


The more loosely held, suspended components both react more intensely to incoming light (individually) and do so by presenting more of a specific "colored" surface to such light, increasing the reflectivity of that particular component. Simple Grays just don't perform in this manner, leastwise not at the level a Gray comprising of RGBY elements mixed in a quantity of water based Poly and pure Water can/will do. The other factor is the considerable amount of additional reflective components; Silver Metallic and White Pearlescence. SS certainly does not contain any of those (...unless I told someone to add 'em...
) All that additional reflectiveness also helps the light reflected off the RGBY components to be effectively reintroduced back towards the viewer, as well as distribute illumination more throughly throughout the Poly-infused coating.


All of that is what make SF develop a "positive" gain, something none of the N'Grays possess. Combined with the fact that those aforementioned attributes also allow for the use of even darker shades of Gray than most anyone else would dare attempt to use with a N'Gray and the end result is a vibrant, color correct image that also combats the intrusion of Ambient light.


Even better, in the Dark, SF has a "Plasma TV" quality about it's appearance, something that was affording users a "3-D like" effect for quite a long time before such observations were being made with the newer, brighter, 1080p PJs.


Lastly, when SF is combined with the use of a 1/8" Mirrored substrate, very dark Gray shades were/are possible using normal levels of luminosity (1000 to 2000 lumens) and the "3-D'ism becomes all the more remarkable.


None of that is possible using a simple N'Gray w/Poly. And even with 2000+ lumens on hand, a N'Gray w/Poly will still mute Whites and affect the colors of a projected image to far greater an extent than SF will/does.


Now to qualify those statements beyond saying all that is something I personally know and have experienced many times in the past...let me state that without a personal inspection and evaluation of the difference, someone who owns a well done N'Gray w/Poly Screen that is effectively matched up with a decent PJ, and is viewed under the right circumstances (lighting...room colors) isn't going to be able to do much more than take the word of those who have in fact "been there, seen that". But even so, they will also most likely not let such protestations sway their opinion that the Screen they have is "Just fine, thank you very much.". And if they are gloriously happy...it shouldn't.


You bet Screenies can show up that difference though...and it's been done before. But mostly it's been a case between a "White" and a SF Gray.* That is/was what most wanted to see for quite some time until it became more popular for some to say that such comparisons were unfair to a N'Gray. Just keep in mind, I'm not among those who have fallen back on that safety net because quite frankly, it almost doesn't apply to SF Screens at all.



I never hesitate for any willing AVS member to call my bluff and do up a SF Screen as directed....I never have worried as to if what I tell 'em will be will come to be.


To that effect, if such was not the case and there existed a raft of unhappy Campers out there, you can believe they'd be out in force anytime/every time I post to the contrary. Instead, the only people who do post up negatives are those who have never done up a SF Screen, who are defending the applications they have found to work quite well for them (...understandable and Ok in itself...) and who basically don't agree (...or appreciate...) reading how something....really almost anything....might be "mo Bedder' than what they are using.



Used to was, only those with expensive Mfg Screens were guilty of such rhetoric. But in reality, it's the increase in both PJ quality and more effective DIY screen solutions that have made that happen with more frequency among prideful DIY'ers.


All in all, something that really isn't all that bad because it shows that a awful lot of DIY Screen makers are pretty darn pleased and happy with the Screens they have made up.


Now as for myself, "pleased and happy" just don't cut it.
Ya gotta be overwhelmed....ecstatic..."Drop Jawed Amazed". Yessir.



So...unless you make up a SF batch and match the shade of it to your current screen, paint up a $12.00 Thrifty White Hardboard screen, and make the comparison yourself, you'll probably NOT want to wait around until you see it done by someone else. All I can offer is a resounding "Go For It !!! You'll be weally, weally glad you did!"



Well that...and all the other stuff I just laid on ya.



*There is a thread I authored from back around 07' where I compared SF/BW/SS/N'G/White. It showed SS holding it's own against everything "but" SF, but that SS had no Poly in it. Pissed a few people off if I remember correctly, but lifted SS up to a level of acceptance it never had reached before.

OK, OK, I hear you... I *still* have all the SF materials and I just have to find the right substrate for it.... perhaps I just get some BOC and wood and make the screen that way (since I want about 115" diagonal)....


Also, just to update.... I have ordered the JVC RS10 as I went though the pro8100 and the 1080ub and both were defective upon arrival... I then saw the AVS sale for the JVC and 'went for it' as you say =)


So what do you think about a wood frame with BOC for a 115" substrate?
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello /forum/post/18372206


OK, OK, I hear you... I *still* have all the SF materials and I just have to find the right substrate for it.... perhaps I just get some BOC and wood and make the screen that way (since I want about 115" diagonal)....

JUST MAKING SURE YOU WERE LISTENING.....



BOC? Gotta work on that..............


Quote:
Also, just to update.... I have ordered the JVC RS10 as I went though the pro8100 and the 1080ub and both were defective upon arrival... I then saw the AVS sale for the JVC and 'went for it' as you say =)

..........as I seldom get to say in the DIY Screen world, "Oh how very righteous!" Now your up in the Big Leagues.....ya got ch'er courage up!

Quote:
So what do you think about a wood frame with BOC for a 115" substrate?

........beans don't burn on the Grill.

Forget that BOC business.. You have a RS10. Why take the risk and the excess bother to get all the right Wood, bracing, BOC, stretch and smooth the BOC correctly, Prime it and sand it, hope to spray on the Rubberized side with out developing texture or little Niftkins....then worry about how to Frame it? You have the "Power"...the Resolution....a perfectly clean image....true 35K Contrast, and the goodies to mix up a 2.0 Silver Fire batch....all the very best of what makes for achieving the best. Don't introduce anything that can mitigate that potential.


No-sir. Get a piece of 5' x 10' GatorFoam board. Have the Supplier cut it to

104" x 60" so as to leave 2" all around the perimeter of the 100" x 56" Image area It's incredible stuff. It's a smooth, white sheet. Ready to paint directly onto...no Priming required. Support Frame? Doesn't need it. The stuff doesn't twist or warp. A simple 1x4 perimeter Frame will serve to allow you to mount French Cleat (Hangman) hangers, and be there for extra support for the Finish nails you drive through the Black Velvet wrapped MDF (3.25" wide) base to act as your Trim Surround.


And even simpler, you can hang the who enchilada really easy just by screwing directly through the outside edges of the GF/1x into the Drywall,

Paint the thing where it's exactly where you want it to be, then cover those Screw heads with the Trim.


The GF/SF Screen will provide you with a extremely smooth surface that will only compliment the attributes the JVC brings into the equation. Do as i suggest and it won't be "All good" but rather "So Perfect".


PS & BTW,


Try to hang the JVC at it's closest possible Lens distance from the Screen (12'-2") to get 24 Fl. on Normal Lamp. With the 1000 ANSI Lumens the RS10 puts out, on Low lamp you'll still get as much or more Lumens as a 16-1800 Lumen job set on Low Lamp.....but you'll be so very much more well off "Contrast & Dynamic Image-wise' than any Epson. Up to and including the 9100 Pro, a particular favorite of mine.


Ya got me all a'tingly inside......
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/18375016


JUST MAKING SURE YOU WERE LISTENING.....



BOC? Gotta work on that..............





..........as I seldom get to say in the DIY Screen world, "Oh how very righteous!" Now your up in the Big Leagues.....ya got ch'er courage up!




........beans don't burn on the Grill.

Forget that BOC business.. You have a RS10. Why take the risk and the excess bother to get all the right Wood, bracing, BOC, stretch and smooth the BOC correctly, Prime it and sand it, hope to spray on the Rubberized side with out developing texture or little Niftkins....then worry about how to Frame it? You have the "Power"...the Resolution....a perfectly clean image....true 35K Contrast, and the goodies to mix up a 2.0 Silver Fire batch....all the very best of what makes for achieving the best. Don't introduce anything that can mitigate that potential.


No-sir. Get a piece of 5' x 10' GatorFoam board. Have the Supplier cut it to

104" x 60" so as to leave 2" all around the perimeter of the 100" x 56" Image area It's incredible stuff. It's a smooth, white sheet. Ready to paint directly onto...no Priming required. Support Frame? Doesn't need it. The stuff doesn't twist or warp. A simple 1x4 perimeter Frame will serve to allow you to mount French Cleat (Hangman) hangers, and be there for extra support for the Finish nails you drive through the Black Velvet wrapped MDF (3.25" wide) base to act as your Trim Surround.


And even simpler, you can hang the who enchilada really easy just by screwing directly through the outside edges of the GF/1x into the Drywall,

Paint the thing where it's exactly where you want it to be, then cover those Screw heads with the Trim.


The GF/SF Screen will provide you with a extremely smooth surface that will only compliment the attributes the JVC brings into the equation. Do as i suggest and it won't be "All good" but rather "So Perfect".


PS & BTW,


Try to hang the JVC at it's closest possible Lens distance from the Screen (12'-2") to get 24 Fl. on Normal Lamp. With the 1000 ANSI Lumens the RS10 puts out, on Low lamp you'll still get as much or more Lumens as a 16-1800 Lumen job set on Low Lamp.....but you'll be so very much more well off "Contrast & Dynamic Image-wise' than any Epson. Up to and including the 9100 Pro, a particular favorite of mine.


Ya got me all a'tingly inside......

Yes, I'm pretty pumped for the JVC. Yes, I will be ceiling mounting this puppy at minimum distance (12' ish), so that's a done deal.


Just to clarify on the substrate... this will have to be painted before it's 'hung'.... the whole point to getting the substrate is that I can paint it outside or in the garage. If I paint inside, which I'm really trying to avoid, I would just use the wall that I have currently have the SS/Poly on.... I've been watching 'the wall' now for several weeks and it's more than flat and clean enough for my viewing needs. However, I really do not want to spray in a finished basement.. if I can avoid it.....So how much should I expect to pay for this cut piece of GatorFoam?
 
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