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Discussion Starter #1
I posted a while back in the regular “Screens” forum(my mistake) about trying to do a 2.39 163” spandex solution and after feedback and more research I’ve decided to shoot for 141”. And, post in the correct subforum this time. Oops! Anyway, I’m thinking 141” because it should leave me with enough calibrated light to try using low power at least some of the time. Speaking of power I have an Epson 5050ub in what can be(most of the time) a light controlled room. The screen wall is 157.5” wide x 105” tall and the room is ~36’ deep. The plan is to throw the image 15’ at a screen wall offset out 2’ and seat at a distance under 12’ from there. The seating max is due to some speaker alignment quirks of the room. I can get into it if it becomes relevant. Other details that might affect the wall/screen build are I’m building 3x 1099s, with one being horizontal(already have them), for LCR and some combination of DIY subs to help fill my deeper room. A couple Devastators on their side might work well as speaker “stands” in the front.

For the screen itself I’m hoping I can find 12’ length of poplar that others are using or splice 8’s together to get the widths(130”). Obviously, I’ll be following Mississippi Man’s plans. I’ll have to space the center supports to leave clearance for the horizontal 1099 center and I’m not sure if the L/R will be inside the screen supports or behind the side panels. Still working on figuring that out as I also plan to make CIH masking panels and I need to figure out if the speakers can be behind them without the frames interfering. I already have the spandex. 4 yards of white and 8 of black. Although, it came in a box as I assumed on a roll was standard since there wasn’t a “ship on a roll” option at checkout. I must have needed to add a note and they would charge me after. Anyway, I just need to dry and stretch the spandex, buy some poplar boards, put my Kreg jig to use, and staple away. Sounds easy. Right?!

For the wall I’m not sure if I’ll use the pillars I’ve read about or just frame it up. It will be open/free to the left side as the room widens there. I plan to use the black spandex for the panels and more of the on edge framing design. I can play around with the screen height and see what looks best to me. I can determine all of the panel dimensions at that point. Also, I think I’ll probably use some type of AT velvet for the masking panels when I make those. I’m open to suggestions on the material. Right now the room is beige and that may not change right away. Although, I mentioned the dark red I saw on here to my wife and it wasn’t shot down right away. So, that may be the way to go and it would probably be easier to paint before the screen wall goes up. I also plan to insulate behind the wall.

That’s where I’m at right now. So, what am I missing? Any input is appreciated. I already appreciate all of the info I’ve found on here so far. I’m really excited to get building on everything.

Edit: I added a top view of the screen area. Ignore the few extra speakers in there as I try to figure out my angles/setup.
 

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I have a really similar setup to yours. I really need to make a build thread, but it would take me forever. I’ll see how I can help in the meantime. Your equipment choices look good already.

If you can do more than 2’ of space behind your screen, do it. I often see 3’ or more recommended. My wall to screen is 30” and it feels barely enough. I started with wanting 18”. You want it at least as deep as your subs/speakers unless they will be sticking out below your screen. But it’s also easy to forget about the depth of the screen frame (2.5” for 1x3 on edge) and thickness of your lumber if you frame the wall (3-7” or so).

I am also going with a horizontal 1099 center. I was worried about spacing the vertical screen frame supports so far apart, so I added some cross bracing and some angle braces (those helped a ton). My L/R ended up inside the frame which further complicated things. I over braced mine, but I would rather overbuild. As for straight poplar, good luck. Lowe’s doesn’t carry 12’ long, and I went to 6 Home Depot’s to find 2 pieces of 12’ 1x3 (and no 1x4s) that were somewhat straight. Lowe’s had much straighter pieces up to 10’. I gave up and got the straightest I could find. Over bracing helps that too. Poplar has gotten expensive, but no other wood came close to stiffness, straightness, and hardness.

For CIH, many people said they never bothered using masking panels in the screen since there is no light projected on the sides for 16:9. I’m going to try this route. If your L/R are outside the screen, use velvet masking on the screen for best results. Otherwise use black spandex or speaker cloth in front of the speakers. I haven’t done my panels yet, but I plan on black velvet. If you don’t have speakers or subs behind panels, use black velvet from Syfabrics (darkest, cheapest, not AT at all). For in front of subs, you can get away with black velvet from Joanns (slightly AT but more expensive). Anything in front of speakers should be fully AT, so black spandex, speaker cloth, GOM fabric, but those are not as dark as velvet. And yes you have to specifically ask for spandex to be rolled if you want crease free, but I’ve heard it’s not hard to get creases out if folded.

You can certainly do regular framing for a wall, but it’s more expensive and doesn’t offer much benefit. It can also obscure subs/speakers and make moving things around more difficult. Many ways to do this successfully though.

Looks like you got a good start on everything else though. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a really similar setup to yours. I really need to make a build thread, but it would take me forever. I’ll see how I can help in the meantime. Your equipment choices look good already.

If you can do more than 2’ of space behind your screen, do it. I often see 3’ or more recommended. My wall to screen is 30” and it feels barely enough. I started with wanting 18”. You want it at least as deep as your subs/speakers unless they will be sticking out below your screen. But it’s also easy to forget about the depth of the screen frame (2.5” for 1x3 on edge) and thickness of your lumber if you frame the wall (3-7” or so).

I am also going with a horizontal 1099 center. I was worried about spacing the vertical screen frame supports so far apart, so I added some cross bracing and some angle braces (those helped a ton). My L/R ended up inside the frame which further complicated things. I over braced mine, but I would rather overbuild. As for straight poplar, good luck. Lowe’s doesn’t carry 12’ long, and I went to 6 Home Depot’s to find 2 pieces of 12’ 1x3 (and no 1x4s) that were somewhat straight. Lowe’s had much straighter pieces up to 10’. I gave up and got the straightest I could find. Over bracing helps that too. Poplar has gotten expensive, but no other wood came close to stiffness, straightness, and hardness.

For CIH, many people said they never bothered using masking panels in the screen since there is no light projected on the sides for 16:9. I’m going to try this route. If your L/R are outside the screen, use velvet masking on the screen for best results. Otherwise use black spandex or speaker cloth in front of the speakers. I haven’t done my panels yet, but I plan on black velvet. If you don’t have speakers or subs behind panels, use black velvet from Syfabrics (darkest, cheapest, not AT at all). For in front of subs, you can get away with black velvet from Joanns (slightly AT but more expensive). Anything in front of speakers should be fully AT, so black spandex, speaker cloth, GOM fabric, but those are not as dark as velvet. And yes you have to specifically ask for spandex to be rolled if you want crease free, but I’ve heard it’s not hard to get creases out if folded.

You can certainly do regular framing for a wall, but it’s more expensive and doesn’t offer much benefit. It can also obscure subs/speakers and make moving things around more difficult. Many ways to do this successfully though.

Looks like you got a good start on everything else though. Good luck!
I can play around with my model and see if I can bring the wall out a little further. Having more room back there definitely wouldn't hurt for setup and maintenance. The room is deep enough in general but the issue is the left side surround mounting location. It's stuck back above the bar where the room widens. It's the only place I can fit it without it getting in the way. So, I can only go so far back with the seating before I “cut off” the sight line to that speaker. I am tentatively planning on having the subs be visible at the bottom but I’m not leaving any room behind them in my current plan either. I’ll have to do some more figuring on that front. Now that I’m thinking about it more the pillars probably won't fit if I keep the subs foward. It may be too wide. I guess I can tie into the ceiling in the middle too and put the pillars as wide as needed. Back to the drawing board. This won’t help my analysis paralysis at all. At some point I'm going to need to jump in the deep end to get things rolling. Here's to not drowning!
 

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Yeah man I totally get it. Sometimes you find the details that you analyze to death end up not being a big deal, and some random easy thing brings your project to a halt. You can likely make the wall work at 24”, but just pay a little extra attention to the depth taken up by whatever frames you make. If subs are sticking out, that should help since the 1099s should fit ok.

Laying out my false wall frame, subs, and speakers so that nothing overlapped was very much trial and error. One other thing to keep in mind if you end up using masking panels is to try and avoid putting the speakers directly behind where the frames will be. Subs don’t care about being blocked by small wood frames, but those higher frequencies might.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ready to get started on the screen.

I've been planning and working on speakers lately but I'm planning to get the wood for the screen this week. I was looking at Menards a week or so ago and I think I'll have some luck finding decent 12 footers for the long boards. I've attached a drawing of the screen build and speaker placement plan. If you can read my chicken scratch feel free to pick it apart. I didn't draw in the cleats but I'll either get the z clips or do the 1x8 ripped version. I changed my mind and decided to go with a vertical center and Erich with DIYSG says when he gets some time he thinks he can figure something out for him to ship just a baffle and have it arrive in one piece. Anyway, I think this speaker placement will work or I may try to fit the L/R speakers further out to increase that angle as it's a bit narrow now. I'm just not 100% sure they'll fit with masking panels for doing 16:9 CIH. I have around 16" inside the screen frame to the 16:9 line and that doesn't include any masking panel framing. It will be a really tight squeeze with the speaker width being 12.5". They may even fit behind the side panels outside of the screen but I was kinda hoping they'd stay behind the screen itself.

For the screen wall I adjusted out another 6" and plan to build it so the screen ends up 30" from the actual wall. I'm pretty set on building a couple Devastator subs, but I'm just not sure if I'll keep them vertical behind the screen or lay them on their sides and maybe use them as stands for the speakers and have them stick out the front as part of the wall essentially. I'm even considering doing Poly windows for the drivers like I've seen on a few builds. That would look sweet! Depending the orientation I can probably do pillars if vertical or just frame the wall around the subs if they're below and make it work that way too. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to close the left side in? See the drawing in my first post. Just add another panel maybe? I may need to access from that side some but even at 30" I won't be able to squeeze behind there and will probably need to access most things form the front anyway.

Hopefully, I can get the wood and get going on the screen like I'm planning. I think having that will help me visualize the wall and general scale of things better. Things are progressing pretty slowly with me working during then day and then trying to help as much as I can at night since my wife if working from home AND watching our 2y/o and 4y/o. She's stressed to say the least. I try to do as much as I can when I'm home. But hey. We're both employed so we're lucky in that regard. Doesn't leave a lot of time for Menard's trips or HT projects though. Ha. But! Progress IS being made. So, there's that. Here's to progress!
 

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I didn’t check your math or anything, but it looks like you have a good plan in place. If you want to save a bit of weight and cost, 1x3s all around should be fine. I had to mix both sizes since I couldn’t find enough straight 1x3s. Technically you don’t need 2 pieces along the bottom length for strength, but it does help straighten things out. If you can, ripping a 1x8 for your cleat would be good. I didn’t have good tools so I used a miter saw to add a bevel on the 3.5” leg of a 1x4, then screwed that to the vertical supports around the 1/4 and 3/4 spans. That was plenty strong enough. Switching to the vertical center really makes the screen frame much easier.

For your speaker placement, where you have it is fine. With the screen supports on the outside edges of the speakers, you have plenty of room for the speaker dispersion when toed in. I decided to place my speakers outside of the 16:9 area but still behind the screen to give more separation. If you wanted to do this, remember your vertical supports can be moved in more and don’t have to be on the edge of the 16:9 viewing area. It’s up to you though.

For the left side of your wall you don’t need anything structural. You could just build a large black velvet panel, and either friction fit it or add some Velcro. If you want to get really fancy you could make it a hinged door. With any of these, you could get rear access easily if needed.

Don’t worry about being slow. You will probably finish your 1099s before I do...
 

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I didn’t check your math or anything, but it looks like you have a good plan in place. If you want to save a bit of weight and cost, 1x3s all around should be fine. I had to mix both sizes since I couldn’t find enough straight 1x3s. Technically you don’t need 2 pieces along the bottom length for strength, but it does help straighten things out.
Thanks for the feedback again. I used my 1x4 pieces because I had already cut them to length. After I read your notes talking about 1x3's only I went back to the thread where I pulled a diagram from for reference. Looking at that again I think it had 1x4's because they were splicing for the lengths. I see a lot of people just use the 1x3's. Oh, well. It's all cut, pocket holed, and screw together now with 1x4 edges and the bottom 1x3 reinforcement in place.

For your speaker placement, where you have it is fine. With the screen supports on the outside edges of the speakers, you have plenty of room for the speaker dispersion when toed in. I decided to place my speakers outside of the 16:9 area but still behind the screen to give more separation. If you wanted to do this, remember your vertical supports can be moved in more and don’t have to be on the edge of the 16:9 viewing area. It’s up to you though.
I had been thinking about it and after reading this and think about it some more I'm planning on pushing the speakers all the way to the screen edge to widen the L/R speaker gap a bit more. I really like the idea of having those L/R sounds being differentiated and separated even more. So, I ended up just evenly spacing the 4 vertical supports all the way across. There's 23.75in between each. I think. If I have any problems with CIH mask framing getting in the way later(I don't think I will) then I can probably move the supports out to allow the speakers to come inside the 16:9 area. Thinking ahead, if there IS an issue, I should just be able to get in there and unscrew, slide them over, and screw them back in. But! Like I said, I don't think it'll be an issue.

For the left side of your wall you don’t need anything structural. You could just build a large black velvet panel, and either friction fit it or add some Velcro. If you want to get really fancy you could make it a hinged door. With any of these, you could get rear access easily if needed.

Don’t worry about being slow. You will probably finish your 1099s before I do...
Ooooo, hinges. That IS fancy! ;) Yeah, either just a panel or a hinged one should work. As for the 1099s the cabs are done sans baffles. I'll hopefully by priming/painting the port areas black in the next day or so and gluing on the two vert baffles I have shortly there after. Still waiting on the third. The crossovers are already done and tested, but I still need to drill or route for terminal cups and get the insulation coming. And, I think I'll roundover the baffle and maybe the other edges to a smaller diameter. So, plenty left to do on those too before finishing.


I'll post a bunch of screen build pics when I get a chance.
 

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Yeah you can always move those vertical supports at a later time. Gotta love that kreg.

As for your speakers, you may want to wait to paint behind the ports (I’m assuming you didn’t mean painting actual port holes in baffle) until after you put insulation in. I painted mine first, then stapled bright white insulation on top. Doh. If you are using denim, it wouldn’t be as noticeable. I also lined the cabs before glueing the baffles. Denim would be a bit easier to fit through the driver holes afterwards, but mattress topper would be a pain.
 
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