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Discussion Starter #1
Inspired by Mfusicks "hypothetical build threads".

In the next few months I'll be building a new set of speakers. For the foreseeable future I'll be extremely limited in space so a 2.0 setup is all I'll likely be able to accommodate. I'm an extremely over the top person and all of you are enablers so tell me what to build.

I have one constraint on this build outside of room size. Shipping. Erich can't get reasonable rates for shipping to Alaska so I'm stuck with Parts Express and the like for large items.

I've had my eye on Erich's Maximus 18 build. I like it because it'll go down to sub 30hz and I'm sure it has a great sound quality.

I don't mind if these two speakers are large (within reason (Maximus is around the size limit)). I have no preference of active, passive or hybrid. 60/40 music/movies. Should be able to supply enough volume for house parties.
I need detailed instructions. I'm learning and enjoying myself here. I'm smart enough to figure this out if you hold my hand a little
 

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The easy solution is to pick a 2-way design and stack them on top of a pair of subwoofers. You could build them as a single cabinet but there is little or no reason to. Big 3-ways are obsolete for very good reason.

Pros -

No custom design work required - hundreds of fine designs to choose from. Mix and match based on price/performance, availability, cosmetics, whatever.
Shipping 4 big flat-packs may be far more practical than shipping 2 giant ones.
Active crossover and big power for subwoofers = reduced load on receiver.
Subs can be relocated to more ideal positions to minimize peaks and nulls.
No practical limits on performance (ignoring budget and size constraints).
Upgrade path is trivial.

Cons -

Subwoofer amp not included in traditional passive crossover 3-way budget (cost can be offset in other areas but not obvious at first look).
Very few big 3-way designs to choose from.
Overall efficiency is limited by woofer selection.
 

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Big 3-ways are obsolete for very good reason.
Not even remotely true. All my designs are 3 way, even with subs (which make it 4 way). Best system apart from mine I've heard belongs to a friend and it's 5 way with mainly PHL drivers and a couple of Maelstroms for the LF. 100% music only system.
Very few big 3-way designs to choose from.
True. Most seem to focus on what they can get away with for lowest cost and decent performance, rather than the best you can reasonably build.

OP: I assume you're in the US, so I'd go with an AE TD15, TD10M and either a Beyma TPL150H or a Raal in the DIYSG WG available for it. Active of course. If you swapped in a B&C DE250 and a QSC WG, you'd have my surrounds.
 

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http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=9.0

You can get the all the drivers and seos12 from partsexpress, should be around $320. Add a couple subs underneath and you got a monster of a speaker. The inuke dsp would be perfect for this kind of setup but I read they are not so great for full range speakers. Theres always a minidsp and whatever amps you want.
 

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My left/right were $4200 for the pair (including 3-way amplification/active DSP).

No need for a subwoofer (they are flat from 15hz up, and over 115dbC continuous all-day @ 6ft).

Two SEOS 12's
Two Cel 15 mids
Four UM-15's
Two FP10kQ clones
1 DCX or 1 2x8 miniDSP
Dimensions are 16x16x58
The max power handling is 3800watts per.

The Maximus would be a good alternative and can be powered with an AVR (mine cannot because it is well beyond quad 4-ohm...)



Here is what my weaker speakers sounded like (the big mains are even LOUDER and even higher SQ ;) )


^But only when you want it to
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OP: I assume you're in the US, so I'd go with an AE TD15, TD10M and either a Beyma TPL150H or a Raal in the DIYSG WG available for it. Active of course. If you swapped in a B&C DE250 and a QSC WG, you'd have my surrounds.
Any specific build log I should read up on?

My left/right were $4200 for the pair (including 3-way amplification/active DSP).

No need for a subwoofer (they are flat from 15hz up, and over 115dbC continuous all-day @ 6ft).

Two SEOS 12's
Two Cel 15 mids
Four UM-15's
Two FP10kQ clones
1 DCX or 1 2x8 miniDSP
Dimensions are 16x16x58
The max power handling is 3800watts per.

The Maximus would be a good alternative and can be powered with an AVR (mine cannot because it is well beyond quad 4-ohm...)
This sounds right up my alley
 

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From what I've read, the Crest CC's are the one of the better amps for driving high efficiency mains because of their lack of hiss.
You get a warranty and thus insurance that they won't be defective (or your money back.)

Two CC-1800 for the top half, and a CC4000 or 5500 for the UM-15's should be more-than enough.
I like the clones because they are compact and cheap, their hiss is only slight.

In both cases, the fan noise will drowned out the hiss if in the same room.
You'll probably want to throw the amps in another room (attic, or basement, spare bedroom, or laundry / utility room).

At least with the clones you can mod the fans to be quiet (because you don't really have a warranty to start with.)

If you want two active 3-ways powered with an amp that is silent, then I'd recommend this one (which is cheaper than two FP10 clones), so it might be the way to go:
https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/xpa-7
The speakers would be a bit underpowered though, but it would be silent. What can ya do!
 

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Another thing to consider is the height of the speakers, if you are partying, and thus standing up, you'll want the center of the tweeter to be about 63inches off the ground for maximum clarity and output, which is close to the height of a typical female whom you'd be dancing with.
The height of the tweeter in mine is something like 54inches, a compromise between theater sound and parties.

Something to think about.

You don't want to be massively off axis from a horned tweeter when dancing... nor in a theater when sitting.

The further away from the speaker you are the less important the height is because of the coverage angle.
 

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From what I've read, the Crest CC's are the one of the better amps for driving high efficiency mains because of their lack of hiss.
You get a warranty and thus insurance that they won't be defective (or your money back.)

Two CC-1800 for the top half, and a CC4000 or 5500 for the UM-15's should be more-than enough.
I like the clones because they are compact and cheap, their hiss is only slight.

In both cases, the fan noise will drowned out the hiss if in the same room.
You'll probably want to throw the amps in another room (attic, or basement, spare bedroom, or laundry / utility room).

At least with the clones you can mod the fans to be quiet (because you don't really have a warranty to start with.)

If you want two active 3-ways powered with an amp that is silent, then I'd recommend this one (which is cheaper than two FP10 clones), so it might be the way to go:
https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/xpa-7
The speakers would be a bit underpowered though, but it would be silent. What can ya do!
My crown amps are dead silent out of the box, both fan and hiss.

Hooked up directly to the DNA360 compression driver there is no hiss from 1 foot away. And they have DSP. I use the JBl screen array ones, DSi, they are made to hook directly up to high sensitivity compression drivers and drive high end JbL screen array speakers active. Cost is just a couple bucks more than a cheaper XLS.

That's my recommendation for affordable turn key.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So you want to spend more ? Or less ?
I'm entirely up in the air. All I know is I've got the bug and want to build something awesome. The more expensive the longer it'll take me to build. I'm trying to find a 2.0 setup that'll work in a 400 square foot cabin. At this point in time I literally have no room for surrounds or large dedicated subs. I'll be building a cabin in the next few years but the entire home will be less than 2500 sq ft which means I'll still be slightly cramped. I like Bass' build so far, seems to check all the boxes although slightly above the $1500 per speaker mark
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Another thing to consider is the height of the speakers, if you are partying, and thus standing up, you'll want the center of the tweeter to be about 63inches off the ground for maximum clarity and output, which is close to the height of a typical female whom you'd be dancing with.
The height of the tweeter in mine is something like 54inches, a compromise between theater sound and parties.

Something to think about.

You don't want to be massively off axis from a horned tweeter when dancing... nor in a theater when sitting.

The further away from the speaker you are the less important the height is because of the coverage angle.
How are horn tweeters if your not sitting and listening? Are they bad or just not at their best? A fair amount of listening will be while doing other things
 

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My waveguide system sounds pretty good when I'm in the kitchen which is adjacent from the listening room. Obviously it's not a critical listening environment but the tonal balance actually isn't bad.
 

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Another thing to consider is the height of the speakers, if you are partying, and thus standing up, you'll want the center of the tweeter to be about 63inches off the ground for maximum clarity and output, which is close to the height of a typical female whom you'd be dancing with.
The height of the tweeter in mine is something like 54inches, a compromise between theater sound and parties.
Now that is funny!

Eskimo lady's are probably shorter though... Keep in mind it's Alaska! :kiss:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Another thing to consider is the height of the speakers, if you are partying, and thus standing up, you'll want the center of the tweeter to be about 63inches off the ground for maximum clarity and output, which is close to the height of a typical female whom you'd be dancing with.
The height of the tweeter in mine is something like 54inches, a compromise between theater sound and parties.
Now that is funny!

Eskimo lady's are probably shorter though... Keep in mind it's Alaska!
You've got yourself a point there. My lady friend is 5'4" but she's a Florida native
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My waveguide system sounds pretty good when I'm in the kitchen which is adjacent from the listening room. Obviously it's not a critical listening environment but the tonal balance actually isn't bad.
Good to know. I'm by no means a critical listener so as long as my ears aren't bleeding I'll be happy
 
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