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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I input my sub size and box requirements into WinISD and it gave me a reading of around 14.5Hz at -3dB. I am planning on using the Dayton ultimax 12" sub, with a box size of 15.5"D x 14.5"H x 42"W. I am planning on using a vented port enclosure using 3/4" MDF with the dayton recommended port size. Main uses are movies and TV with some music, never at loud volumes, mostly normal volume levels.

Question 1: Did I get my WinISD calculations correct, if so, what does the 14Hz actually mean?
Question 2: By putting the port on the right side of the box, and running it across the back size to meet the length requirement recommended by Dayton, is this acceptable?
Question 3: I don't have a drawing of what I'm planning to do, but what kind of bracing will i need to make sure it doesn't flex too much?
Question 4: What amp and wireless connection should I look into to make this all work?

Picture attached for reference where I will place the sub behind the couch.

Thanks
Matt
 

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I input my sub size and box requirements into WinISD and it gave me a reading of around 14.5Hz at -3dB. I am planning on using the Dayton ultimax 12" sub, with a box size of 15.5"D x 14.5"H x 42"W. I am planning on using a vented port enclosure using 3/4" MDF with the dayton recommended port size. Main uses are movies and TV with some music, never at loud volumes, mostly normal volume levels.

Question 1: Did I get my WinISD calculations correct, if so, what does the 14Hz actually mean?
Question 2: By putting the port on the right side of the box, and running it across the back size to meet the length requirement recommended by Dayton, is this acceptable?
Question 3: I don't have a drawing of what I'm planning to do, but what kind of bracing will i need to make sure it doesn't flex too much?
Question 4: What amp and wireless connection should I look into to make this all work?

Picture attached for reference where I will place the sub behind the couch.

Thanks
Matt
Not sure how you got an F3 of 14hz, but for the UM12 in that size enclosure (external volume ~5.46cuft, net internal ~4.5cuft net internal) I would tune it to ~20hz. Set a HPF at 20hz and you should keep excursion under control w/ ~600w and this should get you ~ 113db @ 40hz, 112db @ 30hz, and 108db @20hz.

For port size, do a vertical slot port on either side that is 2" wide and runs the entire height of the box with one brace in the middle, essentially making it 2 slot ports right next to each other. Then the port would run to the back of the box, make a 90 deg. bend and extend another 15.5" towards the middle of the box (total port length of 31"). With 600w this gives you a peak port velocity of 17m/s and a first port resonance of 192hz.

Should be a pretty sweet sub and a great use of that awkward space.

For bracing you won't need a ton since you have a fairly small rectangle you're working with, but I would still do maybe 4 window braces at 8", 16", 28", and 36" (measured on the long side). This would give plenty of bracing and make for a very solid enclosure. Hopefully my descriptions of everything made sense, maybe someone will chime in with a drawing to help out, I'm not so good at those.

For an amp if you only plan on having the 1 sub you could do a bridged Inuke 1000dsp and set the limiter to 600w. I'm assuming for the wireless you are referring to getting the signal from your AVR to the amp? If so then I would get the Dayton Sub-Link system. I personally use this in my setup and have had zero issues with it for the 8 months I have been using it. Mine is placed about 14 ft. away from my AVR and has direct line of sight.

Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions. I'm sure some other people with stop by to offer other build suggestions.
 

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I also looked at it for you. Port tuning is often somewhere in the neighborhood of 17-20Hz, and 14Hz is pretty uncommon and difficult to achieve. I used a UM12 driver model from HTS and assumed the net internal would be closer to 3.5cuft; you need to model the empty volume inside the box and exclude all of the wood/braces, driver, port volume, etc. With a 30" long 1"x14" slot port, you'd get a port tuning frequency of around 16Hz with air velocity up closer to 25m/s and first port resonance up around 170Hz. If you make the port cross section larger you'll approach the result above, but either way looks like a lot of roll off down near the port tuning frequency and that the box is a bit undersized.

Based on the info in your other thread, I would still recommend doing a bigger ported 18" sub in the front of your room (say for example something like the mini-Marty with a 17Hz tune and a SI-HT18 driver). Cost/effort isn't going to be significantly different than doing this 12 sub, but you'll get way more bang for your buck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the feedback guys. Anything in the 17-20Hz is fine for my simple build. I showed my wife some builds and the sizes required to build a full or mini Marty like box and she said hell no. This is why I'm doing the small cubby option.
 

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you've got about 4 cubic feet or so of (net) enclosure volume to work with there.


maybe you want to get your feet wet with a set of three infinity 1262w subs.
there are a few builds around here using that driver, with decent results.
three 1262w will handily outperform a um12, particularly for upper/music bass spl.
wired series for 8 ohms per driver, three drivers in parallel for 2.67 ohms. most "4 ohm" amps should be able to handle that (with that driver, as its re isn't too far off the nominal resistance), if not...
wired parallel for 2 ohms per driver, three drivers wired in series for 6 ohms.


a thousand watt plate amp would be a good choice, but they tend not to be a very good bang for the buck. a pro amp is better bang for the buck, but there are plenty of issues to work through there. I'm sure you've been doing some reading, so i won't list them all here...with a sealed enclosure you will need some sort of eq to help bring up the lower notes. some amps have that baked in, others don't.


not sure what to suggest for a wireless device.
 

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you've got about 4 cubic feet or so of (net) enclosure volume to work with there.


maybe you want to get your feet wet with a set of three infinity 1262w subs.
there are a few builds around here using that driver, with decent results.
three 1262w will handily outperform a um12, particularly for upper/music bass spl.
wired series for 8 ohms per driver, three drivers in parallel for 2.67 ohms. most "4 ohm" amps should be able to handle that (with that driver, as its re isn't too far off the nominal resistance), if not...
wired parallel for 2 ohms per driver, three drivers wired in series for 6 ohms.


a thousand watt plate amp would be a good choice, but they tend not to be a very good bang for the buck. a pro amp is better bang for the buck, but there are plenty of issues to work through there. I'm sure you've been doing some reading, so i won't list them all here...with a sealed enclosure you will need some sort of eq to help bring up the lower notes. some amps have that baked in, others don't.


not sure what to suggest for a wireless device.
^^This was going to be my next suggestion...

Here is the UM12 tuned to 20hz with 500w (to keep excursion under control VS. 3 1262's in a sealed box with 1000w. The 1262's beat the UM12 everywhere but right between 18 - 23hz where they are basically the same. Also, 3 1262's cost essentially the same as a single UM12.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Squires and LTD thanks for the inputs, and the comparison graph.

Any recommendations are where to buy the 1262? Amazon is cheap but I don't trust that they are legit, probably grey market or b stock given the price. I've run into that problem before in other electronics purchases
 

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Squires and LTD thanks for the inputs, and the comparison graph.

Any recommendations are where to buy the 1262? Amazon is cheap but I don't trust that they are legit, probably grey market or b stock given the price. I've run into that problem before in other electronics purchases
I got the 1260 for my build from Amazon, they're legit. Although the price has gone up about $7 from 5 months ago. Still great bang for the buck.

EDIT: More Is Better got his truckload from http://www.sonicelectronix.com/ for a bit less than on Amazon. May have been a bulk buy deal though.
 

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Squires and LTD thanks for the inputs, and the comparison graph.

Any recommendations are where to buy the 1262? Amazon is cheap but I don't trust that they are legit, probably grey market or b stock given the price. I've run into that problem before in other electronics purchases
amazon is legit. that price is the same price you can get most else where for the 1262s
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ordered 3x 1262W, should be here on Tuesday. Gonna go to the local AV store and get the Inuke1000DSP tomorrow.

Also have 3x terminal cups on order.

I understand I will need 2x 4-pole speakon connector, positive wire goes to 1+ and negative to 2+, is this correct?

What is the recommneded wire size, I'm guessing 16-18 gauge is fine. I plan on using the attached wiring diagram based on previous post:
 

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