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anyone have any thoughts? mals would most likely be in big sonos to save on some floor space and have a face audio F1200-TS amp split between them to start.
 

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A pair of DTS-10's would cost over $2,000 and will only be available til the 1st of March. They will go much louder than the 21's but they enclosure is pretty large but then again the 21's would probably be pretty big too. The 21's could go lower into the single digits (with room gain and maybe some EQ) where the DTS-10 drops off in the low teens and would benefit from a HP filter if pushed hard. I don't see that happening with a pair unless you are a major basshead with a HUGE room.
 

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You already know my answer, the Danley's. I would not think that the 2 21's would keep up with my 8 18's but the Danley's can. If you said 4 21's then that would be better.
 

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It's a toss up.


The advantage of the Mals is that you can build them in an a reasonable size enclosure (sealed) and in any shape that you want. Or for that matter, port them or build another setup on down the road like, dual opposed , etc.


The Danleys are a nice setup if you can live with the form factor.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinculum /forum/post/18164131


A pair of subwoofers vs a pair of drivers. This is apples and oranges.

Ones available in multiple colors and the other only comes in one color
? lol.


Id shoot for the danley's if you can accomodate the akward shaped boxes. I dont think horns in general are going to be going out of style anytime soon. Theyre just too efficient and offer some of the best SQ IMO. Look at MK, hes happier with his 2 DTS-10's than his 8 18"s. That has to speak for something. Youd better jump on the ball if you decide to go the danley route though. Theyre "charity" to the DIY community is just about over.
 

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The Danleys really seem to be the way to go if you can deal with their different shape.


Why are you deciding to upgrade from your A7-900? Do you still have the eD speakers and do you think they can keep up at all with 2 of the Danleys?
 

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for the same $2k of the danley, you could build something like 6 tuba home theater subs. the danleys are solid performers. for $2k, couldn't you get 4 21" mals? even in 8 cube sealed enclosures, that would be a lot of bass. you can't really go wrong with any of these options.
 

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I want to point out that in a year you could probably resell the danleys for more then you paid. Once the kits are gone the value of a dts10 is effectively tripled. I'd try the danleys if you can make them fit. If you do I'd bet there would be no good reason to change, not that you won't get the itch.
 

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Quote:
you can't really go wrong with any of these options.


That is what I would say....both choices are going to be incredible!! I wouldnt fuss too much over which is better actually.


Instead you should just figure out your exact requirements and just buy the one that meets them better.
 

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Fi IB3 22's
 

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I agree with Penn as well. My 18's are different than the Danley's but anyone could easily pick them over the Danley's, it is subjective when you equal out the spl. I just think the DTS-10's would play louder than dual 21's in sealed cabinets.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by t6902wf /forum/post/18166062


I want to point out that in a year you could probably resell the danleys for more then you paid. Once the kits are gone the value of a dts10 is effectively tripled. I'd try the danleys if you can make them fit. If you do I'd bet there would be no good reason to change, not that you won't get the itch.

I doubt that, this is a pretty specialized product that is fairly large in size. The shipping would be pretty high to get it shipped so you would have to do a face to face sell and that cuts your possible sales to about 5%


I would gather the people spending this money would just end up getting it straight from DSL
 

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8 IB3 18's: $1600

4 IB3 22's: $1700 (projected. end of 1st quarter)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nels07 /forum/post/18162798


anyone have any thoughts? mals would most likely be in big sonos to save on some floor space and have a face audio F1200-TS amp split between them to start.

Here are a couple of thoughts.


I have not seen any outside measured graphs of the 21's-so it is really hard to compare actual freq response and sensitivities. But I am sure the Danley's would be quite a bit louder with the same input level.


All I have seen is the simulated measurements of the 21's-no actual measurements. Very often the models differ from reality. Maybe somebody has some outside measurements.


And when a front loaded driver such as the 21's start to move a lot-the distortion rises quickly. Since the horn is controling the movement in the DTS10-the drivers don't need to move anywhere near as far-to produce the same SPL. Which also produces less mechanical stress on the drivers.


Those 21" drivers are relying on XMAX in order to move a lot of air.


And you really need to try and compare a particular cabinet with the 21's to the DTS10. Different cabinet designs/tunings will have different parameters and the various tunings will affect the overall outcome. Some people prefer a lower freq output, while others prefer more SPL. That is a choice you have to make-as to what is more important-and design the cabinet to accomondate that.


I can't tell exactly where they get the 1500watt power handling from. Is that a continous or program rating? But power handing is NOT what you are interested in-it is rather max SPL at a particular freq-but when used with a calibrated freq response can be a "metric". One without the other is pretty much useless. ie Where do the numbers come from?


The starting point for such a comparisom is to have measurements that are made the same way for each cabinet. Not likely that is going to happen. If you want ot send us a cabinet with the 21" in it we will be willing to measure it.


The other thing is an actual side by side-that is the best way-but you would have to get people together in the same room with both cabinets and that would also be a bit on the hard side-but not impossible.


The DTS10 is rated for 1000 watt continous and 2000 program-4000 peak if you want to play that "stupid" game that others like to play. I don't play that numbers game-I try to stay in a more realistic arena.


Other than that, it is pure speculation on anybodys part.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater /forum/post/18166182


I agree with Penn as well. My 18's are different than the Danley's but anyone could easily pick them over the Danley's, it is subjective when you equal out the spl. I just think the DTS-10's would play louder than dual 21's in sealed cabinets.

No doubt.


But part of the requirements for anyone is to find out what their max SPL will be.


If that is 110 dB peaks for someone then its kind of a moot point that the DTS-10 will play to 130 dBs without breaking a sweat.


Its kind of like debating what engine to put in a car....We should be asking what the car will be doing? Drag Racing? Driving to work? Highway? City? Just to the Golf Course?


We know that 2 DTS-10s is way beyond what most will ever need, sick and incredible output but I can say that my twin 15" ported subs have sick and incredible output too in my room. I can say that my 4 Q18s in my other room are also sick and have incredible output.


So 21" Mal-x drivers are going to be incredible too.


The end point is that there isnt a loser here!!
 

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He is coming from an eD A7-900(ported dual 18's) so he already has insane output. If he wants an upgrade I think the Danley's will give him greater separation or a big enough difference from the A7-900.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater /forum/post/18166414


He is coming from an eD A7-900(ported dual 18's) so he already has insane output. If he wants an upgrade I think the Danley's will give him greater separation or a big enough difference from the A7-900.

I didnt know that.....with that in mind. The DTS-10 would be a good choice to explore.


two side by side would make a nice new wall in the room
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver /forum/post/18166334


Here are a couple of thoughts.


I have not seen any outside measured graphs of the 21's-so it is really hard to compare actual freq response and sensitivities. But I am sure the Danley's would be quite a bit louder with the same input level.


All I have seen is the simulated measurements of the 21's-no actual measurements. Very often the models differ from reality. Maybe somebody has some outside measurements.


And when a front loaded driver such as the 21's start to move a lot-the distortion rises quickly. Since the horn is controling the movement in the DTS10-the drivers don't need to move anywhere near as far-to produce the same SPL. Which also produces less mechanical stress on the drivers.


Those 21" drivers are relying on XMAX in order to move a lot of air.


And you really need to try and compare a particular cabinet with the 21's to the DTS10. Different cabinet designs/tunings will have different parameters and the various tunings will affect the overall outcome. Some people prefer a lower freq output, while others prefer more SPL. That is a choice you have to make-as to what is more important-and design the cabinet to accomondate that.


I can't tell exactly where they get the 1500watt power handling from. Is that a continous or program rating? But power handing is NOT what you are interested in-it is rather max SPL at a particular freq-but when used with a calibrated freq response can be a "metric". One without the other is pretty much useless. ie Where do the numbers come from?


The starting point for such a comparisom is to have measurements that are made the same way for each cabinet. Not likely that is going to happen. If you want ot send us a cabinet with the 21" in it we will be willing to measure it.


The other thing is an actual side by side-that is the best way-but you would have to get people together in the same room with both cabinets and that would also be a bit on the hard side-but not impossible.


The DTS10 is rated for 1000 watt continous and 2000 program-4000 peak if you want to play that "stupid" game that others like to play. I don't play that numbers game-I try to stay in a more realistic arena.


Other than that, it is pure speculation on anybodys part.

lets not get too crazy thinking we can not get a rough estimate. we can rarely ever get apples to apples in this game. but this is what we do. this is all we do. try to compare stuff.


we like the ferrari analogy so I'll go with a car anyway. ya you can not compare the American Muscle beast huge displacement dragster with the 4 cylinder souped up Honda. But if we are going for a 10 second car, which one can do it...whats it gonna take to get it there.. which one is "better".


blah.


we can plot and we can predict. it's never spot on. but lets not pretend we are completely shooting in the dark here.


and as for Xmax and distortion... Xmax is the standard tollerance for distortion. everyone here knows the DTS is simply gonna have less distortion. but lets not make it out like the MX 21" is going to be intollerable within its Xmax either.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray /forum/post/18166387



Its kind of like debating what engine to put in a car....We should be asking what the car will be doing? Drag Racing? Driving to work? Highway? City? Just to the Golf Course?




So 21" Mal-x drivers are going to be incredible too.

well..lol.. i take em 1 post at a time, not read them all then reply all
 
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