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2 More VBSS on the Way

7351 Views 48 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  [email protected]
2
I had a hard time deciding whether to add a Mini Marty or 2 more VBSS to my existing 2 VBSS end tables, but the decision has been made. The positioning of my end tables leaves the mlp in a partial null, and my end table positioning is inflexible, so I want to hit it from multiple angles to help even out the room. Thus, I decided 2 > 1 for my situation. Yes, two Mini Martys would be better, but I'm on a tight budget, and I'm very happy with VBSS 1 & 2.

Drivers have arrived, wood has been ordered, my build of 2 additional VBSS cabs is set to begin.

These will be a modified slot port configuration at around 20 Hz. I'm building the cabs so they can be stacked in the one location my baffle wall affords, or I can place one behind the baffle wall and one in the corner of the room, or I can stack them both in the corner of the room.

My baffle wall is a load-bearing wall, so I'm limited as to what I can do with it. The space I have available is 29" wide by 43" tall, so I'm working on a cabinet design that is 21.5" tall x 28" wide x 23.5" deep. I plan to do some testing to see which subwoofer configuration provides the most impact at MLP, two together or two separate.

I'll be driving these with an iNuke 3000DSP (thanks @Jk7.2).

Here's a picture of my space. Where you see the MTX 3X10 box in the corner is one possible location for one (or both) of the VBSS. The room is open on both ends. Where the camera is, there's a staircase open to the upstairs.



And here's my baffle wall.



Build progress pics will happen over the next few weeks as I gear up. I'm waiting on Baltic Birch sheets from Menard's (ouch $80 each!) I'd like to finish these in natural wood with a Tung oil or something of that nature. They will have rounded over corners because I actually like plywood grain, but these need not be supermodels as they will mostly be hidden away.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms (constructive)? Fire away!
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The PA-460's don't like to be placed in small boxes when tuned low.
Like a 15hz tune requires like a 20cuft box. At low frequencies the UM-18 will win, but it loses up top. No free lunch.
Of course you can still jam it in a smaller box that optimal, it just means that it will rolloff sooner than ideal.
Also, mixing different driver models or box types can sometimes be challenging so staying with the same driver has its advantages too.
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I'm very happy with my quad-VBSS setup. :)
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So I did a little snooping to see if I can plant one of the new subs over in the corner shown in pic 1 above. While there is RG6 run over there (I have used this for subwoofer signal in the past), there is really no way I could run speaker wire over there without making holes in the ceiling and wall so I think for now I'm going to stick to both subs behind the screen. I don't anticipate any issues with this.

Picked up my wood yesterday: 2 sheets of 3/4" Baltic Birch. Props to Menards, they used an OSB skid below and another slice of OSB on top, plus wrapped it in Tyvek. I was worried the wood might get damaged during shipping but its in great shape.



Hoping to start making sawdust this weekend, but I need to finalize my box plans before that can happen.
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On a side note: 4 sheets of wood is damn HEAVY. I lifted one end of the stack to put a dolly underneath and my hands went numb for 10 minutes. That can't be good.
I'm very happy with my quad-VBSS setup. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
I am also happy with my four in the garage. Although not ideal, these seem to handle the 6.25 cft box well with the dsp settings.
I considered this route, but I'm running both subs off a single iNuke 3000DSP which I already own. To go a different route could get expensive quite fast.

There's actually one more location I could put a sub in the room, I may play with placement once I get up and running.

Edit: while I can't run speaker wire to that location, I can and will experiment placing both subs and the amp over there since I'm already set up to do that. I just won't have the flexibility to split them up.
@jevchance looking forward to the build. I am doing cs1214 in a dual end table like yours (thanks zarkoff500) and have no way to run wires so I am looking into the wireless systems augerhandle suggested.

p.s. You doing frame off resto around that nice Wilwood front disc setup? Maybe an old land cruiser?
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@jevchance looking forward to the build. I am doing cs1214 in a dual end table like yours (thanks zarkoff500) and have no way to run wires so I am looking into the wireless systems augerhandle suggested.

p.s. You doing frame off resto around that nice Wilwood front disc setup? Maybe an old land cruiser?
Heh I guess it does look like a truck with all the panels off, its a 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe. :)

The end tables are great. Unfortunately they don't give you much flexibility in where to place them, however. I love mine, these 2 additional subs are just to even out the room.
@jvchance no way! i have helped buddies restore 2 of them, never seen one without wheel wells/front clip. What are you going to put it in? Original 289/302 or maybe 406 small block crate motor ha ha! Good luck on the build!

Yea mine too, I have a large room and one side is open so can't do wires and it basically sounds like **** with 1 sub placed anywhere in the room except in the front corner where the wife said...um hell no! So i figured I would build 2 and try to even it out since I don't play movies very loud.
@jvchance no way! i have helped buddies restore 2 of them, never seen one without wheel wells/front clip. What are you going to put it in? Original 289/302 or maybe 406 small block crate motor ha ha! Good luck on the build!

Yea mine too, I have a large room and one side is open so can't do wires and it basically sounds like **** with 1 sub placed anywhere in the room except in the front corner where the wife said...um hell no! So i figured I would build 2 and try to even it out since I don't play movies very loud.
It will have a 302 roller out of a 1988 Mustang converted to carburetor. The motor is mostly done just waiting for the body. This is how it sits, I haven't worked on it much the past 2 years due to lack of motivation and other projects *ahem*.

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My son's '68 has been sitting in that condition for 10 years. Seize the day.
Here's what I came up with for box specs. If anyone has any WinISD expertise, would you please run the numbers and let me know if I'm off on anything? This is my first time using WinISD to design a box.

External cabinet dimensions: 21.5" tall x 28" wide x 26" deep (vertical slot port on baffle)
Internal cabinet dimensions (before port): 20" x 26.5" x 24.5"
Speaker displacement PA460-8: 556.4 in3
Port volume (20" wide x 1.5" tall (2.25" tall with port thickness) x 20" long (20.75" long including baffle thickness)): 900 in3
Brace displacement (3 2"x4"s centered on xyz axes): 368.8125 in3
Net internal volume (gross volume - speaker - brace - port): 11159.7875 in3 (6.46 ft3)
WinISD port dims: 20" x 1.5" x ~20.75" (calculated)
Tuning frequency: ~22.2 Hz

Sawdust flies tomorrow!
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Well, that didn’t go well.

I bought a cheap plywood blade at Lowe’s and am now paying the penalty. Blade would get hot and start flapping, making terrible cuts.

Can anyone recommend a good 7.25” blade for cutting 3/4” Baltic birch?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Well, that didn’t go well.

I bought a cheap plywood blade at Lowe’s and am now paying the penalty. Blade would get hot and start flapping, making terrible cuts.

Can anyone recommend a good 7.25” blade for cutting 3/4” Baltic birch?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Freud Diablo 40T blade. Slightly smaller in overall diameter than other brands, but rock solid beautiful cuts.
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Freud Diablo 40T blade. Slightly smaller in overall diameter than other brands, but rock solid beautiful cuts.
Thanks for the recommendation Michael!
I agree that would be a great blade for sure, will give you a nice clean cut without heating up, use them all the time


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Thanks guys, I ended up with a Diablo 60T blade and it cleaned up that edge nicely. The boxes will now be 1/4" shorter than the design, but I won't tell if you don't!

I also picked up a beefier router from Facebook yesterday. I'm hoping to do 3/4" roundovers on this box and I know my little trim router isn't up to the task. I'm not even sure I can chuck a roundover that big in this larger router but we will find out!
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I put together some Sketchup models of my intended design, mostly out of curiosity. I'm not yet set on the roundovers, I know I want to do them because I like rounded over plywood but not yet sure if I'm just doing them as rendered or doing all the corners.

Dimensions:



Rendering stacked:



And I attached a cutlist.

Attachments

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