On my T5687 there are 2 screws to remove the left-seen-from-front panel to view the caps and 9 more to remove the whole back panel across the chassis. Then there are 2 screws holding the power board in a groove. They are all the same size, good idea. Two more brass-colored to remove power board from its frame. As noted and from memory there are 3 cables to the board--here is where I could have messed up as it was open for a week. Putting the caps in reverse would mess up things too. These caps has open ovals on one side I take to be the negative side. The old ones had pluses on one side. Reversing would be bad. I'm sure the board was a lot more cost than just the caps but if it worked (seems it didn't) then that cost would be justified. BTW I'm using a 19" LCD 1080 Magnavox, several years old--real hard to read small print unless you get very close.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicconius /t/827799/2007-samsung-led-owners-thread-hlt-xx87-89s/14850#post_24773335
I'm having the power on issues. No picture, even after unplugging now. So I ordered a new power board for a good price instead of trying to replace capacitors. I assumed there would be YouTube videos to help me along, but can't find any for the HLT-6187S or similar models. I found one that seemed a lot different from my TV. I also tried searching this thread and found nothing. Does anyone have a good link for this or head me in the right direction? Wanna get the TV back up and running ASAP. Not that my 31 inch CRT isn't stunning or anything...
Originally Posted by KKlare /t/827799/2007-samsung-led-owners-thread-hlt-xx87-89s/14850#post_24801046
What percentage of 2007 owners are still here?
I finally realized what you said. Yes, the symptoms exactly fit having no LED drives. Does anyone have voltages for the LED power "sub" board? Maybe it could be resurrected. The set went out before I replaced the caps there (and they needed it) but that might have been the final blow. Should I look for a schematic and other description? Probably where I should have started. Worse comes to worse, I might have to back out those under-voltage caps on the power supply board--kept all the originals. (Total expense so far, $14+$20 plus my time.)When I read this, I could see that a problem on the LED driver board could cause the symptoms that you are facing. hopefully, you are not paying much for the Caps. Digikey and Mouser are sources that I have used in the past when I need components versus "parts."
There are three choices: AC to USB adapter, powered USB hub, or set's USB port.I was reading some earlier posts about some people attaching a Thermaltake Mobile 12 USB powered fan to the side vent by the sub board and LED's to provide extra cooling. Did you plug it into the set's USB port or a USB wall adapter for power?