AVS Forum banner

15041 - 15059 of 15059 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Well, my trusty 11 year old HLT is acting funky today. It keeps turning itself back on after I turn it off. The first time I thought it was a fluke, but then it kept doing it. Within 30 seconds of turning it off, I'd hear the tones of the set turning itself back on. Then tonight it stopped. ....Maybe it's just possessed. lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Sorry, just saw this now. Never did get a pm though.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I have a number of people with questions about the BP96-01726B or the BP96-01726A power
supply and for some reason I do not get the notification without a big delay or not at all.
I would not want to show my gmail address here but if you can't get in touch with me you might
take a guess at it.
stanman2242
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
I apologize if this has already been addressed, but this is a rather large thread. Anyway, I've own a HL-T5087S for 11 years and it worked perfectly until pixels started to die a couple years ago. I ordered a new DMD chip from ShopJimmy and installed it without issue. After that, my DLP worked flawlessly until last week when the color went all wonky and the set abruptly shut off. I was able to turn it back on, but I immediately noticed that there was no blue in the picture. I've seen a few accounts online of LEDs dying in these TVs, so I figure that's what's going on in my case. ShopJimmy sells the LEDS for about $70 each, which is great. I'm sure I can do the replacement, but I wanted to check here first to see if anyone has done an LED replacement on this TV and how difficult it was. Also, is there anything else that might cause one LED to go out besides the LED itself? I don't want to get into a money pit situation here. I know the TV is getting old, but if I can fully repair it for just $70 I'd be crazy not to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
I apologize if this has already been addressed, but this is a rather large thread. Anyway, I've own a HL-T5087S for 11 years and it worked perfectly until pixels started to die a couple years ago. I ordered a new DMD chip from ShopJimmy and installed it without issue. After that, my DLP worked flawlessly until last week when the color went all wonky and the set abruptly shut off. I was able to turn it back on, but I immediately noticed that there was no blue in the picture. I've seen a few accounts online of LEDs dying in these TVs, so I figure that's what's going on in my case. ShopJimmy sells the LEDS for about $70 each, which is great. I'm sure I can do the replacement, but I wanted to check here first to see if anyone has done an LED replacement on this TV and how difficult it was. Also, is there anything else that might cause one LED to go out besides the LED itself? I don't want to get into a money pit situation here. I know the TV is getting old, but if I can fully repair it for just $70 I'd be crazy not to.
Hi, having picture without blue is normally the blue LED but you described other things that makes me wonder.
Before you order a blue LED, make sure yours is bad.
It could be your LED Driver board or something else.
Slide the Light Engine out a few inches and disconnect the blue and white cable from the blue LED.
Take a good 9 volt battery and touch it to the terminals of the LED.
The + side of battery should go on the right terminal of LED, the one that had white wire on it.
You will see a small blue dot in the middle of lens if LED is working.
It is not bright so you need to get so you can actually see middle of lens.
If it is not working then you can feel safe ordering one, if not get back to me and we can figure out what it is.

I just looked and Jimmy does not have it in stock, he has not had them in a long time.
You can look me up on eBay if you need one but I only have one left right now.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Hi, having picture without blue is normally the blue LED but you described other things that makes me wonder.
Before you order a blue LED, make sure yours is bad.
It could be your LED Driver board or something else.
Slide the Light Engine out a few inches and disconnect the blue and white cable from the blue LED.
Take a good 9 volt battery and touch it to the terminals of the LED.
The + side of battery should go on the right terminal of LED, the one that had white wire on it.
You will see a small blue dot in the middle of lens if LED is working.
It is not bright so you need to get so you can actually see middle of lens.
If it is not working then you can feel safe ordering one, if not get back to me and we can figure out what it is.

I just looked and Jimmy does not have it in stock, he has not had them in a long time.
You can look me up on eBay if you need one but I only have one left right now.

Thanks for the quick reply! I don't have a 9-volt on hand but I'll pick one up tomorrow and try that test.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Ah, Christmas morning surprises. Our trusty HLT-6189S has been relegated to the game room for the last year or so, connected only to an XBoxOne for the kids. Christmas morning, and a couple new games, and the set won't turn on. LED blinks a number of times, then back to standby. Think I'm going to order up some CAPs for the sub board, and give that a shot ($20 and a couple hours is worth the attempt).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Ah, Christmas morning surprises. Our trusty HLT-6189S has been relegated to the game room for the last year or so, connected only to an XBoxOne for the kids. Christmas morning, and a couple new games, and the set won't turn on. LED blinks a number of times, then back to standby. Think I'm going to order up some CAPs for the sub board, and give that a shot ($20 and a couple hours is worth the attempt).
Hi, Replace the 5 caps with 2200 @ 35 volt caps and most important replace the 450 volt cap
even if it looks ok.
Don't bother testing any of them, just replace them.
On the 450 volt cap many times I find one of the pins burned off but you do not notice it
because cap is glued down on board.
This large cap sometimes has "eyelets" going through board and sometimes it does not.
Either way the connection is a cause of problems.
Even though there is what looks like a good solder connection the eyelet itself can crack loose from board.
Without the eyelets the solder itself can crack.
It does not look pretty but what I do is fold the lead of the new cap over and make a redundant connection to a place near the hole.
That should fix it if it does not PM me and I will further go into problems with this board.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Hi, Replace the 5 caps with 2200 @ 35 volt caps and most important replace the 450 volt cap
even if it looks ok.
Don't bother testing any of them, just replace them.
On the 450 volt cap many times I find one of the pins burned off but you do not notice it
because cap is glued down on board.
This large cap sometimes has "eyelets" going through board and sometimes it does not.
Either way the connection is a cause of problems.
Even though there is what looks like a good solder connection the eyelet itself can crack loose from board.
Without the eyelets the solder itself can crack.
It does not look pretty but what I do is fold the lead of the new cap over and make a redundant connection to a place near the hole.
That should fix it if it does not PM me and I will further go into problems with this board.
Got the caps replaced, and still doesn't power up. about 10 blinks of the green LED, pause, then another 10 blinks of the green LED, then nothing. Anyone ever seen these symptoms, and was there a fix?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Got the caps replaced, and still doesn't power up. about 10 blinks of the green LED, pause, then another 10 blinks of the green LED, then nothing. Anyone ever seen these symptoms, and was there a fix?
At this point try replacing the 47uf 50v capacitor shown in the picture and then check your voltage again and see if you now have 15.9 to 16.0 volts DC at the grey cable.
If that does not work try the 68uf capacitor.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Over 40,000 hours on my set and it's still going. Original LED's too. The only thing I replaced was the DLP chip about 5 or 6 years ago..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Hey all, my HLT6187S is still alive and kicking. The only thing i have replaced is the DLP Chip back in January 2013. Its still our main TV and its on ALL day long thanks to the kids.

The problem i have had lately is it is slow to respond when you first power it on after being off overnight. It powers up, and the screen comes on but none of the buttons work (including the power button) for about 3-4 minutes (from the buttons or the remote). Sometimes it never seems to respond so i have to unplug it completely and plug it back in to "kick start" it. I had to setup a dedicated power strip for the TV so the kids can just flip the power strip switch off and on vs them unplugging it. Any idea where to start to troubleshoot this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
I am trying to contact "stanman2242"...has anyone heard from him?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Over 40,000 hours on my set and it's still going. Original LED's too. The only thing I replaced was the DLP chip about 5 or 6 years ago..
Where can you find hours of run time? Mine is still going strong. I did replace all 3 color chips.

The reason I even came back in here is I got a new receiver and my screen size is off a bit on graphics on sport shows.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Might need to replace the red LED on my set after having it all these years. DMD chip was replaced though samsung a few years ago (at least 5) and recently the TV has started flickering with Red color being out of sync with the rest. Restarting the TV between 2-5 times fixes the issue. I've replaced the HDMI cables with no change. Are there any other components I should look at replacing other than the RED LED that might cause this issue? $70 for a new LED sounds better than a few hundred for a new TV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
the TV has started flickering with Red color being out of sync with the rest.
What do you mean by "being out of sync"? With my HLT5687 the red LED just died instantly. Replacing it fixed the problem. Examining the old one, you can see the damage along edges of the chip, where the wires bond to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
What do you mean by "being out of sync"? With my HLT5687 the red LED just died instantly. Replacing it fixed the problem. Examining the old one, you can see the damage along edges of the chip, where the wires bond to it.
No matter the screen (input unplugged or plugged in), the RED color is flashing on and/off incorrectly (the blue and green seem to be fine) with the red color dropping out and then flashing making the picture over-saturated with red and then back to off. I was thinking it may be a capacitor also as a few restarts fixes the issue and that makes me think a cap isn't charging and discharging properly. I know this set doesn't have a color wheel, but it's almost like the red is flashing on/off at the wrong time if that helps describe the issue. Where did you source yours from? Ebay seems to be the only option now per my searching of the part numbers from samsung's website.

I'll try to grab a video and post it here. I haven't taken the back of the TV off yet to check for damage to the chip. These chips are the factory original from 2007/2008.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
If the red LED is coming on when the screen is supposed to be all black, then I doubt it's a bad LED. It's more likely something to do with controlling it.

I'm in Canada. I bought mine from samsungcanadaparts.com but that was in November 2012. I don't know if it's still available from them.
 
15041 - 15059 of 15059 Posts
Top