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I've been on the fence about getting the SEK3500 for my UN50HU8550 for quite a while. Still not positive, but one function may keep it from happening. How does the remote communicate with the box? I ask because all of my gear is in a closet with no line of sight to the seating area. I use a URC RF remote to control everything. That is, RF signals from remote go to a repeater inside the closet that turns those signals into IR signals for all the gear. Specific TV commands are supported by IR commands as the remote also sends those. So.......if commands are all IR to the SEK3500 box....which would be in my closet, I'm going to have a problem. Hope that makes sense.

I also still haven't ascertained if its even worth adding the box as I have no interest in doing 4K BR or HDR since 95% of my viewing is HDTV through Uverse.
 

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I've been on the fence about getting the SEK3500 for my UN50HU8550 for quite a while. Still not positive, but one function may keep it from happening. How does the remote communicate with the box? I ask because all of my gear is in a closet with no line of sight to the seating area. I use a URC RF remote to control everything. That is, RF signals from remote go to a repeater inside the closet that turns those signals into IR signals for all the gear. Specific TV commands are supported by IR commands as the remote also sends those. So.......if commands are all IR to the SEK3500 box....which would be in my closet, I'm going to have a problem. Hope that makes sense.

I also still haven't ascertained if its even worth adding the box as I have no interest in doing 4K BR or HDR since 95% of my viewing is HDTV through Uverse.
The remote works exactly the same as it does now on your UN50HU8550. By that I mean Bluetooth as well as the included IR function to turn on other devices just like it does now.

If you are interested, here is a page showing how to test your remote...

http://support-us.samsung.com/cyber/popup/iframe/pop_troubleshooting_fr.jsp?modelname=&from_osc=&idx=429489&

Would I buy the SEK-3500 if I didn't have any 4K devices. Nope and that's why I haven't bothered adding one to my HU7000 in the bedroom until my TV provider rolls out their wireless 4K STBs (and even then I might not since tests have proven that the MHL port (HDMI3) works fine with my Arris 4K PVR on that set without the SEK).

Considering the limited quantity of 4K broadcast material and the fact I have no intention of adding a 4K Blu-ray Player to the bedroom (if I know what's good for me :eek:) I would tend to think most/all of my viewing of UHD will be on the big screen in the Living Room.

As for my HU9000+SEK in the living room with multiple 4K devices including my Arris 4K PVR and Samsung Ultra HD Blu-ray Player along with Streaming Apps including YouTube which requires the VP9 codec to view 4K video in full 3840x2160 rather than upscaled 1080p, I wouldn't live without it!

Cheers!
 

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I have an 55HU8550 and thinking of getting the SEK3500. I currently use an IR extender to control a Samsung HDMI cable box. I have noticed that the SEK3500 does not have an IR OUT port to connect the extender. There is an EX-LINK plug but according to a Google search, that's for Samsung techs to tweak the settings (BS?) . Also, will the SEK3500 give me HDCP 2.2 and UHD Color=ON to ALL 4 HDMI ports?
My SEK3500 has an IR out
 
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My SEK3500 has an IR out
Yeah you're right. I should have known better than trusting @pantag's post who didn't realize the SEK-3500 had holes in the sides, lol.

But thank you @poppagene for pointing this out to everyone and the rousing conversation we have all enjoyed this morning on Bluetooth and IR.

As a result, I have just hooked up my IR extender that came with my HU9000 and put it in front of my Ultra Blu-ray Disc player which wasn't nearly as cooperative as my Arris PVR. I can now control it from anywhere in the room as well.

My new favourite seat will probably become my bar stool.



P.S. That's rum in the glass, not beer!
 

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Hey, right on bro! A post of yours I can finally like. :D
What about my posts asking for best setting for smart LED? and if ADE is active in movie mode??

LOL

BTW latest update ive settled on standard picture mode and smart led high with warm2 color temp.

Gives the picture an awesome "POP", loving it.

Try it out sometime tell me what you think!
 

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I really do appreciate your replies to me @Musician! - it's not everyday that people take time and effort to craft a detailed reply to one's questions.

for Singapore/Malaysia sets, we would need the SEK-3500U/XS sets to have 100% compatibility with our TVs.
the US SEK-3500U/ZA and EU SEK-3500U/ZG would work (based on what I've read) but provide no OTA channel support.

if anyone is interested to read the Whirpool forums discussion on the SEK-3500U (the German model, ZG is mentioned along with AZ and NZ models)
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2467376
Well thank you for the link to the worst SEK-3500 site in the world, lol.

I scanned the entire thread from November, 2015 to the most recent post made on December 1, 2016 and came across one post referencing the ZG model but it appears that nobody answered him.

Maybe you could point @VBlaze7 to a specific posts that says that one of the boxes mentioned in your post would be a suitable substitute for the SEK-3500U/XS (or whatever SEK is applicable to the Philippines) as I found no results that ended in "XS" nor did I find any posts containing the word Singapore, Malaysia or Philippines.

With that being said, if the SEK-3500U/ZA being sold to us in the US and Canada is a suitable replacement for the SEK-3500U/XS (minus the OTA) well then I don't know what the big fuss is all about since these are a dime a dozen. Well maybe closer to $400 a piece.

Good luck and I hope the one you ordered from Europe works out for you.

Cheers!
 
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What about my posts asking for best setting for smart LED? and if ADE is active in movie mode??

LOL

BTW latest update ive settled on standard picture mode and smart led high with warm2 color temp.

Gives the picture an awesome "POP", loving it.

Try it out sometime tell me what you think!
For even more POP may I suggest Dynamic mode with BD Wise turned ON in the settings and the Backlight cranked up to 18! :p

But you're right. I should like those posts you mention as well because I learned another valuable lesson...

Note to self: Let guys figure out s*** on their own :) especially when they keep asking the same questions over and over again :D

 
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For even more pop may I suggest Dynamic mode with BD Wise turned ON in the settings and the Backlight cranked up to 18! :p

But you're right. I should like those posts you mention as well because I learned another valuable lesson...

Note to self: Let guys figure out s*** on their own :) especially when they keep asking the same questions over and over again :D

Well I cant say it was COMPLETLY on my own. Member "DaMacFunkin" gave a very interesting explanation of how ADE works more effectively in "standard" picture mode which led to further testing and i settled on "standard" picture mode.

Was previously on warm1, but found especially standard mode in warm1 pushing too much blue, warm2 made it look closer to movie mode with way better colors.

Then of course your very helpful post on using smart LED on high mostly for HDR only, but on lower settings for good quality sources.

Overall I use standard and high for all content including SDR but found my preference to leave it on "high" as I like the more aggressive dimming it provides. Still don't see much difference between standard and high in "standard" picture mode as I do in "movie" picture mode.

Note: One difference I finally did spot in standard mode between smart LED on high and standard, was on a totally black screen with an icon in the corner, or with white subtitles on black screen "high" does show that it makes the black part of screen much more black. This does come as a trade off with a higher blooming effect than standard but in certain scenes I think it makes the blacks/whites much darker/brighter. Of course some may or may not prefer this since it does come at a trade off with more blooming around the brighter areas.

See what you did? all your fault!
 

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Well I cant say it was COMPLETLY on my own. Member "DaMacFunkin" gave a very interesting explanation of how ADE works which led to further testing and i settled on "standard" picture mode.

Was previously on warm1, but found especially standard mode in warm1 pushing too much blue, warm2 made it look closer to movie mode with way better colors.

Then of course your very helpful post on using smart LED on high mostly for HDR only, but on lower settings for good quality sources.

Overall I use standard and high for all content including SDR but found my preference to leave it on "high" as I like the more aggressive dimming it provides. Still don't see much difference between standard and high in "standard" picture mode.

Note: One difference I finally did spot in standard mode between smart LED on high and standard, was on a totally black screen with an icon in the corner, or with white subtitles on black screen "high" does show that it makes the black part of screen much more black. This does come as a trade off with a higher blooming effect than standard but in certain scenes I think it makes the blacks/whites much darker/brighter. Of course some may or may not prefer this since it does come at a trade off with more blooming around the brighter areas.

See what you did? all your fault!
Just for that I am considering taking back my "Like". :)
 
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Unfortunately this doesn't help. The best colours are achived only in regular 2160p RGB or YUV420. HDR in either mode screws up the colours. with very apparent grading / banding in colours. On Ps4 this is visible in the skies in of Final Fantasy XV and for instance the loading screens in "The last guardian" once again this proves that HDR is not for SEK users.
Do you have Deep Color on on your TV's settings? Knowing what settings and what TV you have would help get to the bottom of it. I've played both of those games and haven't had color banding with HDR turned on.
 
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Do you have Deep Color on on your TV's settings? Knowing what settings and what TV you have would help get to the bottom of it. I've played both of those games and haven't had color banding with HDR turned on.
I saw the same banding while watching Grand Tour Episode 3 HDR on Amazon Instant video on my 65HU8550+SEK3500. Don't know what settings should I change but I truly liked the rich visuals in Grand tour with out HDR while it should be the other way around. :confused: Any help will be appreciated.
 

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Do you have Deep Color on on your TV's settings? Knowing what settings and what TV you have would help get to the bottom of it. I've played both of those games and haven't had color banding with HDR turned on.
I have the same exact issue with the 65HU9000, i can confirm (using my Onkyo 656) that enabling HDR changes the setting from RGB to YUV.

FFXV HDR on lots on banding on the sky, HDR off washed colours.
 

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Change the 4k display resolution to 3840x2160 YUV420 instead of 3840x2160 RGB. RGB makes it run in 12 bit color which is what's causing the banding. That should help.
Hi Everyone, Thanks so much JohngPR and Musician I was incorrect. I kept looking for settings on the TV and in the PS4 but did not see what you guys pointed out until I looked deeper.

On the PS4 video settings I had it set to Automatic. It changed my input to YCbCr 422 24bit. I changed it to the YUV420 and it changed it to YCbCr 420 36bit.

The difference is night and day, I am loving this. I can still sort of make out the banding if I investigate the area but it is a HUGE improvement.

Wonder why on auto it chose the higher end resolution, maybe some kind of misread or something.

Cant begin to thank you enough lol. Hope this helps the other person who was checking also on this thread. Have to remove automatic and force YUV 420 down the ps4's throat. :p

CHEERS!!!
 

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Pity the Members who are Dynamic freaks!
Going outside to the real world must be really boring!
Only lightning storms create any pop, and maybe some sizzle to!

ONCE AGAIN - Members, PLEASE put your Location in your info so we know where the heck you are!
NA answers may not be the same for all places, and many times aren't. Only takes a minute.
To many aren't telling those that answer their questions, to help qualify the reply.
 

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I have been having some serious problems with my HU8550 w/SEK 3500 which have been complicated by also having the UBD k8500 develop an issue at the same time where it lost the ability to read 4K or 3D disks but would play STD Bluray disks. I just got the UBD K8500 back from Samsung (I believe they replaced the laser assy) and have been trying to check it out. After four hours of disk changes ie 4k to 3D to STD Bluray in different order and repeat I made the following observations.

1. When first turning on the tv it often changes the picture mode and settings. It almost always changes the picture mode to Entertainment? when it used to be Movie sometimes keeping the same settings and sometimes not. When I click on that setting it shows Dynamic checked and highlighted. If Movie mode is then selected settings go back to normal. (Note: I use King Richard’s settings for almost all settings). More on this a little later…

2. Both 4K and 3D disks change the Backlight to 20 and Contrast to 100 as is normal. I didn’t realize 3D did it also.

3. If I have been watching a 3D movie and replace it with a STD Bluray disk the screen goes black. If I then turn TV off and back on it starts flickering. I must turn the player and tv off for 30 sec or so and then back on to get a normal screen (Smart TV) to play the STD BR disk. During this maneuver the picture mode stays in movie mode but all settings go to zero. I must select movie mode again and the settings come back to normal.

4. If I turned on the tv and it happens to be in that (see above) Move mode but all settings zero and try to play a 3D disk it will only play in 2D until Movie mode is reselected.

5. While playing STD Bluray I was getting jagged edged diagonal artifacts in the brighter sections of the screen and the screen is split down the middle with one side brighter than the other again only in the lighter or brighter parts of the screen. After pausing to capture one of these events and playing with one setting at a time I found that if I changed the Dynamic Contrast (Advanced Settings) to off these artifacts went away.

I repeated each of these scenarios several times and the results are consistent.

I have been experiencing most of these problems for about 6 weeks but as I mentioned I also had a bad 4K player so I was handicapped in trying to properly sort through the different problems. I also tried 3 different hdmi cables. I am on firmware 1471, use Monoprice certified cables and have been connected via 2 cable method. I have tried unplugging the TV overnight, have done the hard reset via support/self-diagnostics/reset and oh yeah, I have BDWise “on” in the player and “off” in the tv!:)

Now I don’t think this behavior is normal and sure could use some advice as to what to try next. I’d hate to have to remember to check the Picture settings every time I turn on the TV and all the other workarounds I mentioned but I guess I at least know what to do now when these problems do arise. I tried to use that Request Support function on the TV but have not received a call back. I tried calling Samsung Support but they somehow knew I had requested support via the tv screens and told me to wait another 48 hrs, that was three days ago? :(
 

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A lot of what you have described happens if you have BD wise turned on in the Tv or player or both. 3D needs to be in Movie mode or Cal mode because of the Gamma profile, and because of the ADE in standard mode.
Basically all picture processing should be turned off, Dynamic Contrast is one of the most aggressive processing features on the TV, people will argue that it is needed with HDR, but i could show you a scene in The ASM2 on UHD 4K where yes changing from low to medium makes the picture a lot brighter, but you can also see the black detail on Spider-mans suit dissolve away, and that is the correct word dissolve.
 
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