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Of course my only preference from this and others OLDE's technology is the true black, infinity contrast as it should be (theoretically and practically) and of those people who loves watching movies in a completely dark room,. Everyone has different's preferences and I respect them without disagreements..
The only thing that make me so nervous sadly is from LG Display, it seem they can't fix this at the moment in time for the reason that we all already know on B line series
with a different chipset...

With the new and last firmware I saw near black improvements like using brightness at 50 in (SDR) but is possible to get the same near black or better on 04.31.25 using brightness at 53/54 (YCbCr/RGB signal output) with Gamma 2.4/Bt1886 and -8 Blue cut to get back true blacks like I been using all these years.. HDR10 I was able to calibrate it using the white balance control from Service Menu and even so the EOTF curve was off and brighter like it should...

No color banding improvements, no in my tests with color ramps test patterns... SDR and HDR modes have the same gradation like before..

This is my HDR10 Calibration:










For HDR Game and DV, yes, service menu 2 point is your only option.

You CAN calibrate 20pt controls for HDR Standard, but I don't recommend it.

The problem is that the code values they tell you each setting affects are incorrect. They actually affect different parts of the signal, so you'd need to figure out exactly where they align to most, which is difficult (and sometimes inconsistent), and then if you do that, I would recommend only tweaking them to achieve D65 at the same luminance, since the steps are too strong for correcting the EOTF. Even sticking to the same luminance, you can still have some color banding and the same is true for using the CMS controls.

Overall, it's a mess, and I agree, focus on 2 point. If you're going to do that, calibrate 2 point in the service menu based on HDR Standard, Game, and DV, and then do the 2 and 20pt SDR calibrations in the regular menus on top of that.

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I agree, HDR white balance 20p and CMS (all modes) is not working properly, on our 2016 set this is well known. In SDR mode white balance 2, and 20points it works pretty much decent.
 
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The interesting thing about white balance and greyscale is that there are a range of tones we can adapt to see as white and grey, but only after using them for a while. If you're used to a cooler grey, for example on your phone or computer monitor, then suddenly seeing a warmer grey on your tv will look yellowish. Whereas if I tried Warm1, it looks blue to me, because I'm used to Warm2 calibrated to D65, and my computer monitor is also calibrated. But when I was doing my calibration, I did test out all of them and Warm2 came the closest. It's possible there was some drift on your screen or perhaps your screen just started out more warmly tinted than most, it's hard to say without being there to measure it.

Of course without a full calibration nothing will ever be perfect anyway. I'm glad I bought a meter and figured out how to do it myself. Note that calibrating SDR works great, but doing HDR is not as precise, especially in the darker areas so it can look bad with even some small adjustments, and can cause banding.

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Good and valid points. However, in my case, I've been using Warm2 since forever, and recently started noticing scenes looking a bit too yellowish, which Warm1 fixes. So being used to Warm2 should make Warm1 appear bluish, but it doesn't. Warm2 looks yellowish and Warm1 looks white. I'm not sure if the screen shifted or my vision has changed. The other day, I even pulled up a pure white field on youtube, and it confirmed my findings that Warm2 has a yellowish tint, while Warm1 looks white. But Warm2 is definitely a bit easier on the eyes. So right now, I'm back and forth between Warm1 and Warm2 depending on the content (some looks better with one versus another).
 

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My C6 just notified me of a new update. Currently on 5.30.95 before the update.

EDIT: 5.60.05 after the update. Any idea what this does? I had to update user agreements.

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My C6 just notified me of a new update. Currently on 5.30.95 before the update.

EDIT: 5.60.05 after the update. Any idea what this does? I had to update user agreements.

Sent from my OnePlus 5 using Tapatalk
Google translated the Korean website:
① LG channel service improvement and expansion / software-related minor issues improvement (05.60.05)
 

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Hi guys

We recently bought an 77 Oled model, however we will keep our 65E6 in our bedroom.

Previously I was using an AVR with the 65E6, everything was connected to the AVR, so it took care of sound formats.

Now we will use a soundbard with the E6, it is DTS:X compatible, but it only has an HDMI In port and an 1.4 HDMI ARC port, it also has an Optical port in.

I will be plugging a Panny UHD player to the TV and sound will be played through Tvs HDMI ARC port to the soundbar's HDMI ARC port.

Now my question is, with that setup, with no eARC, how far I can go in terms of sound format? 5.1 DTS? PCM?
 

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Hi guys

We recently bought an 77 Oled model, however we will keep our 65E6 in our bedroom.

Previously I was using an AVR with the 65E6, everything was connected to the AVR, so it took care of sound formats.

Now we will use a soundbard with the E6, it is DTS:X compatible, but it only has an HDMI In port and an 1.4 HDMI ARC port, it also has an Optical port in.

I will be plugging a Panny UHD player to the TV and sound will be played through Tvs HDMI ARC port to the soundbar's HDMI ARC port.

Now my question is, with that setup, with no eARC, how far I can go in terms of sound format? 5.1 DTS? PCM?
ARC will allow DTS 5.1, DD 5.1, PCM 2.0, and maybe DD+ 5.1 if supported by the devices. Not DTS:X or TrueHD or anything else like that.
 
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Hi guys

We recently bought an 77 Oled model, however we will keep our 65E6 in our bedroom.

. . . . .
Which 77" did you get, assuming that it was a LG, a CX or C1?

The reason that I ask is that is that I have a 55" B6 that was calibrated by David Abrams from Avical. Even though it looks great, it is five years old. Normally I wait till my TV takes a dump before getting a new one, but I'm considering the 65" C1. I figure that a five year difference should make for a noticeable improvement in the picture. How big of a jump in picture quality have you noticed?
 

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Which 77" did you get, assuming that it was a LG, a CX or C1?

The reason that I ask is that is that I have a 55" B6 that was calibrated by David Abrams from Avical. Even though it looks great, it is five years old. Normally I wait till my TV takes a dump before getting a new one, but I'm considering the 65" C1. I figure that a five year difference should make for a noticeable improvement in the picture. How big of a jump in picture quality have you noticed?
I have 65 c6 and I got 77 CX, other than size difference the PQ is slightly better or same on 77, 77 looks dimmer to me compared to C6, size will be more difference than PQ in your case, I have not seen C1 yet, I have read it is brighter.
 

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I have 65 c6 and I got 77 CX, other than size difference the PQ is slightly better or same on 77, 77 looks dimmer to me compared to C6, size will be more difference than PQ in your case, I have not seen C1 yet, I have read it is brighter.
That's interesting. I would think that there would be more of difference going from a tv that's 4-5 years old. I'm starting to look at the G1 and the Sony A90J, but the legs being on the ends pose a problem for me. I have time though. No rush.
 

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That's interesting. I would think that there would be more of difference going from a tv that's 4-5 years old. I'm starting to look at the G1 and the Sony A90J, but the legs being on the ends pose a problem for me. I have time though. No rush.
the problem is DV implementation, I had SONY 75X900F although the spec was brighter but in DV it was so Dim, I could not stand the TV PQ even in dark room. SD looks better as there was no DV, for some reason my C6 in DV does not go dimmer as compared to SONY tvs and LG OLED CX. there is no perfect tv, with all the tv I have purchased and had C6 is the best in my situation.
I like the CX 77 inch but I am not convinced it is better than C6 on screen, keep in mind the brightness spec does not mean much because in cinema mode brightness is not factor it is lot dimmer and even more so in DV\, its is overall Picture quality and color counts. peak brightness can only be implemented in vivid mode only which is unwatchable to me.
 

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So obviously I can't get 4K and DV simultaneously via the Fire TV. I was able to get both on the ATV 4K but on the Fire TV I have to choose between 4K/HDR10 or 1080p/DV.

Would the new Google TV dongle be able to output 4K and DV like the ATV 4K?
 

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So obviously I can't get 4K and DV simultaneously via the Fire TV. I was able to get both on the ATV 4K but on the Fire TV I have to choose between 4K/HDR10 or 1080p/DV.

Would the new Google TV dongle be able to output 4K and DV like the ATV 4K?
This is likely because the Fire TV is trying to output DV in 4K60 and these TVs don't support that

I've been able to watch SOME content in DV on my Chromecast Ultra, and as far as I'm aware, the Google TV works the same way as that for DV/HDR content. Neither one wants to send stuff at 24hz either except in rare cases, so I stopped using it. I use my Apple TV now for everything. The Match Frame Rate and Match Dynamic Range features allow every type of content perfectly on just about every app.
 

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I've been able to watch SOME content in DV on my Chromecast Ultra, and as far as I'm aware, the Google TV works the same way as that for DV/HDR content. Neither one wants to send stuff at 24hz either except in rare cases, so I stopped using it. I use my Apple TV now for everything. The Match Frame Rate and Match Dynamic Range features allow every type of content perfectly on just about every app.
Can confirm on that, with the Chromecast with Google TV you just get the option to switch between 4K at 60/30/25/24 frame rates, as soon as you go to 60 FPS it will disable Dolby Vision until you re-enable it by choosing 24 FPS. The Apple TV 4K as mentioned does match correctly as you say (that's what I use the majority of the time).
 

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Can confirm on that, with the Chromecast with Google TV you just get the option to switch between 4K at 60/30/25/24 frame rates, as soon as you go to 60 FPS it will disable Dolby Vision until you re-enable it by choosing 24 FPS. The Apple TV 4K as mentioned does match correctly as you say (that's what I use the majority of the time).
Well at least you get a frame rate option. The Ultra didn't have that. At least that's something.

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Well at least you get a frame rate option. The Ultra didn't have that. At least that's something.
You could force the Google TV to output at 24 FPS all the time which would enable 4K DV but as you say, most people don't like using UI's in 24 FPS. In theory Google could bring the frame/DR matching equivalent of the ATV4K to Google TV with a bit of work I expect via a software update, worth sending a feature request to them I expect.
 

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You could force the Google TV to output at 24 FPS all the time which would enable 4K DV but as you say, most people don't like using UI's in 24 FPS. In theory Google could bring the frame/DR matching equivalent of the ATV4K to Google TV with a bit of work I expect via a software update, worth sending a feature request to them I expect.
My guess is it wouldn't work great. Some other android based devices have that feature and it doesn't work well because app developers have to support it and most don't.

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decided to pull the trigger on a new C1. do not plan on selling my C6 for obvious reasons but trying to decide if i want to move the C6 to my bedroom or pack it back up for a few years and pull it out when i get the 3D itch again.

i checked my usage and i just passed 6100 hours. i am curious what others would do who still enjoy 3D but don't want to run the hours up. my plan is; when i move in the next couple of years to actually incorporate the C6 into my main TV area again behind a screen or other larger OLED. is this ok to store for a few years or should i turn it on every few months to let it get a few hours of usage.
 
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