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Eureka, I have discovered what causes the banding. I hooked up the Oppo directly to the B6 and the banding is gone with 4:2:2 10-bit.

This means it is the Marantz SR7010 that is messing with the signal, even though I've turned off all video conversion/scaling/processing (to the point where I can't have onscreen diagnostics overlayed on the movie).

When the SR7010 is in the chain with 4:2:2 10-bit input, the Marantz shows color space is BT.2020 (like normal), but pixel depth is shown as "--:--", whereas when I make the Oppo output 4:4:4 12-bit into the SR7010 it shows as 12-bit.

At first I didn't suspect the receiver, because I've seen people with different brands of receiver report this problem, but Marantz and Denon are owned by the same company and likely share a lot of hardware/software.
Makes me want to stick with Oppo so I can just run the audio to the receiver with the 2nd hdmi.
 

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I came to the same conclusion as you did after some testing and prefer both TruMotion and Real Cinema set to off.

I have been ok for the most part with the motion on the B6 with the exception of micro-stutters on UHD discs. I see them whenever TruMotion is set to user...the values don't matter.

They are really apparent and repeatable when you watch the formation of helicopters flying past the hanger at around the 19:00 minute mark of the Sicario UHD. With TruMotion at any setting other than off, one or two of the helicopter will suddenly jump forward in flight. Turn TM off and they move smoothly. But with TruMotion off the 24hz judder has an almost strobe lighting effect to my eyes.

Once I turned off Real Cinema in addition to TruMotion everything looked fine to me and I can finally stop messing with the TM values.
I use a Tivo Bolt for the majority of my content and when I connected the B6, they negotiated a 2160 resolution(or whatever UHD is) between the two of them. That's when motion was drawing attention to itself and I tried several settings but not really satisfied. Then I changed the Tivo output resolution to 1080i which is what most the content is mastered to, and the motion problem went away. Not sure if the display is using true motion or not. Guess I should check that.lol
My point is that we're all have different setups and some people are having motion issues while others aren't and I'd wager we'd find a pattern if everyone either having a problem or not would go into more detail about what their setup is.

As a matter of fact, it'd probably be a good idea to start a new thread to collect user experiences so we could make clear cut settings recommendations.
 

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Makes me want to stick with Oppo so I can just run the audio to the receiver with the 2nd hdmi.
It looks like I'm not the only person that has this issue with the SR7010. I just started searching forums for anyone indicating the same problem, and found someone on another forum that has the same problem with the same movie.

His post:

"I've got an issue with my 7010, When I go through the Marantz 7010 receiver (even with video conversion setting to off) I get banding/gradation issues in sky shots on the revenant UHD BD (scenes where Tom hardy grabs gun of young lad). I've tested the HDMI cables going direct to the PJ from the Panny ub900 UHD BD player and are all ok. Is there a bug in the marantz video conversion where it is still altering the signal?"

https://www.avforums.com/threads/marantz-sr7010-sr6010-owners-thread.1988471/page-67#post-23550547

Apparently Marantz is aware of the issue and said they will issue a fix, but this was in May:

https://www.avforums.com/threads/marantz-sr7010-sr6010-owners-thread.1988471/page-72#post-23649246
 

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Seeing if someone has a clever(er) way to get audio from TV's Netflix/Amazon apps back to receiver.

I tried setting ARC first but that didn't work out as well as I had hoped, I sometimes watch TV with receiver off (baby TV, news, in laws visiting etc.) but with ARC on my receiver insists being on if the TV is on - it also turned my Nvidia Shield on every time. I have quite a few source devices (all connected to receiver) so I prefer using Harmony to start everything.

So I switched from ARC to optical audio, the problem is again with watching TV when receiver is off - now I have to manually change the audio output setting every time I switch between watching TV and the internal streaming apps there doesn't seem to be automatic option that switches to TV speakers when optical is not connected. Switching audio output takes quite a few clicks so here's where I'm interested seeing is someone has better ideas. Anyone know if there is e.g. a LG remote command for switching audio output and if that can be get to working with Harmony somehow?
On my B6 there is an option to use optical and internal speakers under simultaneous sound, do you have that on yours?
 

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3D on the C6 is spectacular. I'd prefer a flat panel, but got the C6 for the 3D and don't regret it. Worlds better compared to the 3D on my 2014 1080p OLED. I did get lucky with a good C6 panel, but there is some risk for you there, unfortunately. A couple of other possible 3D negatives...

TruMotion shows what I would call "severe" artifacts when used with 3D, so if you require motion smoothing that might be a problem. I prefer some motion smoothing, but I'm okay without it.

The C6 has a very narrow vertical position range, to keep ghosting down. Standing or lying on the floor will quickly get ghosting. But for normal viewing, there is zero ghosting, very impressive.
Narrow vertical range for 3D or in general?
 

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On my B6 there is an option to use optical and internal speakers under simultaneous sound, do you have that on yours?
Yeah, that is what I'm using now - I still have to manually turn TV volume to zero (and then back up again after I'm done with Netflix) to stop the TV from outputting both optical and TV speakers simultaneously (if both are on the overlapping audio sounds awful).

Unfortunately, muting displays the icon on screen so volume has to be lowered manually. Still quicker than changing audio output setting though I think.
 

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Eureka, I have discovered what causes the banding. I hooked up the Oppo directly to the B6 and the banding is gone with 4:2:2 10-bit.

This means it is the Marantz SR7010 that is messing with the signal, even though I've turned off all video conversion/scaling/processing (to the point where I can't have onscreen diagnostics overlayed on the movie).

When the SR7010 is in the chain with 4:2:2 10-bit input, the Marantz shows color space is BT.2020 (like normal), but pixel depth is shown as "--:--", whereas when I make the Oppo output 4:4:4 12-bit into the SR7010 it shows as 12-bit.

At first I didn't suspect the receiver, because I've seen people with different brands of receiver report this problem, but Marantz and Denon are owned by the same company and likely share a lot of hardware/software.
Lol

I knew chroma couldn't cause banding (sorry for accusing you of placebo effect).

Anyway, no big deal. Just leave it at 4:4:4.

Well in fact it could be a big deal for HFR HDR video.... When you will need to use a lower chroma value because of the higher bandwidth required.... Or for 4k HDR video game.... They require 4:2:2
 

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Lol

I knew chroma couldn't cause banding (sorry for accusing you of placebo effect).

Anyway, no big deal. Just leave it at 4:4:4.

Well in fact it could be a big deal for HFR HDR video.... When you will need to use a lower chroma value because of the higher bandwidth required.... Or for 4k HDR video game.... They require 4:2:2
I don't know much about all of these chroma settings, but couldn't devices somehow automatically detect the best chroma to be used and set it automatically? It just seems silly for the end-user to have to decide what "chroma" to use, when the vast majority of people would have no idea what the hell it is. :)

Or is it supposed to be automatic, but it just doesn't "detect" things properly all of the time, which is why people are "force" setting it? Sorry, I haven't been following the details of the conversation.

It just seems that these newer sets and source-devices have quite a few settings that need to be set manually depending on the device being used or the source material being played (things like chroma, wide color gamut, deep color, some sort of subsampling setting, etc). I think that this stuff is really going to confuse the majority of the people just wanting to "watch TV" if it's not automatically detected and set accordingly - and would probably cause them not to get the optimal picture quality from their sets.

So can and should this stuff be able to be set automatically based on the content playing and the device capabilities? Hopefully, as things progress with 4k HDR, manufacturers will be able to accomplish this?

Thanks!

Sent from my HP SlateBook 10 x2 PC using Tapatalk
 

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I don't know much about all of these chroma settings, but couldn't devices somehow automatically detect the best chroma to be used and set it automatically? It just seems silly for the end-user to have to decide what "chroma" to use, when the vast majority of people would have no idea what the hell it is. :)

Or is it supposed to be automatic, but it just doesn't "detect" things properly all of the time, which is why people are "force" setting it? Sorry, I haven't been following the details of the conversation.

It just seems that these newer sets and source-devices have quite a few settings that need to be set manually depending on the device being used or the source material being played (things like chroma, wide color gamut, deep color, some sort of subsampling setting, etc). I think that this stuff is really going to confuse the majority of the people just wanting to "watch TV" if it's not automatically detected and set accordingly - and would probably cause them not to get the optimal picture quality from their sets.

So can and should this stuff be able to be set automatically based on the content playing and the device capabilities? Hopefully, as things progress with 4k HDR, manufacturers will be able to accomplish this?

Thanks!

Sent from my HP SlateBook 10 x2 PC using Tapatalk
Setting it to automatic is good enough.

The problem is the OP AVR caused a problem when using 4:2:0 (my guess is his AVR output at 8 bits in that chroma mode instead of 10 or 12).

Movies are encoded in 4:2:0 so leave it that way (or use automatic).

On PC it's different, this is the only place where knowing chroma make sense. Even though... Only a really small percentage of people will really have a need for it (graphic designer and gamers where ultra small text is present like MMORPG)
 

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Eureka, I have discovered what causes the banding. I hooked up the Oppo directly to the B6 and the banding is gone with 4:2:2 10-bit.

This means it is the Marantz SR7010 that is messing with the signal, even though I've turned off all video conversion/scaling/processing (to the point where I can't have onscreen diagnostics overlayed on the movie).

When the SR7010 is in the chain with 4:2:2 10-bit input, the Marantz shows color space is BT.2020 (like normal), but pixel depth is shown as "--:--", whereas when I make the Oppo output 4:4:4 12-bit into the SR7010 it shows as 12-bit.

At first I didn't suspect the receiver, because I've seen people with different brands of receiver report this problem, but Marantz and Denon are owned by the same company and likely share a lot of hardware/software.
And I own a Denon which would explain why 4:4:4 12 bit fixed my issue as well.
 

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It seems the former plasmas owners are mostly pleased, that's my panel background. Those that have motion issues seem to be used to strong SOE.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Former Panny plasma owner here ... as hard as I try, I still can' find any flaws with my B6. I do notice one little judder once HDR mode kicks in but after that, smooth sailing. EVEN THOUGH I am looking really hard for a flaw ... just don't see any at all. Seriously, it's the best TV I have ever owned.


My only gripe is that the ARC should be able to carry more than just 5.1 ... would make like much easier with watching Netflix, Amazon, and Vudu 4k material Dolby Atmos and/or 7.1. Alas, my Shield is kick ass.
 

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Anyone know if there is e.g. a LG remote command for switching audio output and if that can be get to working with Harmony somehow?
I've recently setup a "Watch TV Apps" activity on my Harmony, and I have a ridiculous command sequence to switch to optical out that goes something like "Home" delay "Up" (4 times), "Ok" to bring up settings, "Down" a few times to get to the audio setting, "Ok" a few times to get the optical out, then "Home" again to get back to the main screen where I can select the app to use. It looks ridiculous when running, but seems to work and gives me optical out when I want to run apps. (Then I have to reverse the process when I turning the activity off, of course).

I wonder about ARC though. If you can disable HDMI-CEC on all devices (and let the Harmony do all the turning things on), I wonder if the TV would be smart enough to only use the ARC audio when the receiver is turned on and responding to HDMI protocol. That would simplify things (I wanted to try it, but my receiver is too old to have ARC support).
 

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Former Panny plasma owner here ... as hard as I try, I still can' find any flaws with my B6. I do notice one little judder once HDR mode kicks in but after that, smooth sailing. EVEN THOUGH I am looking really hard for a flaw ... just don't see any at all. Seriously, it's the best TV I have ever owned.


My only gripe is that the ARC should be able to carry more than just 5.1 ... would make like much easier with watching Netflix, Amazon, and Vudu 4k material Dolby Atmos and/or 7.1. Alas, my Shield is kick ass.
It's post like this that make me wonder if some of these sets are just defective... I mean the judder/stutter/jerkiness that I experience is so obvious that I don't know how someone couldn't see it.

But like I said before, with cable, for example, it doesn't affect ALL content. Things like football look perfect - no motion issues whatsoever. But it's very obvious on some movies and TV shows. Personally, I think that it affects 24p content transmitted via 60i/60p (I hope I said that right!?). :)

But I also notice it right away on 4k blurays as well, especially if TruMotion is disabled.

Or, maybe its like I said earlier and it all depends on what you are coming from (and are used to). I've never owned a plasma, so I can't comment on their motion handling, but my LCD sets don't show any of this judder/stutter/jerkiness during motion.

I guess it could also even depend on the cable system you use - or even the specific cable box you use - and/or it's settings.

But when I see posts like this that say that they can't find any issues with motion, even while specifically looking for it, something just doesn't add up. I'm not that critical of a viewer, so if I can easily notice it while not looking for it, it doesn't make sense that someone that *is* looking for it can't see it at all. :)

@africanlivedit - what are you're RealCinema/TruMotion settings set to? And what source(s) are you viewing?

Let's start comparing some stuff...

Thanks.

Sent from my HP SlateBook 10 x2 PC using Tapatalk
 

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I run my Oppo 203 at 4:4:4 12bit and source direct. It is noticeably better than the other two settings or "auto". The difference is very noticeable in the main menu of The Revenant, where the clouds show banding with 4:2:2 or 4:2:0.

Yes, it shouldn't make a difference, since the Blu ray is encoded at 4:2:0, but I can't argue with the results. Eventally the signal gets translated to 4:4:4 somewhere, and perhaps the Oppo is better at doing this conversion than the TV (which would be surprising).

I will probably do some more testing to investigate further.
But that's OPPO. I own a Samsung 4k player. Not sure if that applies.

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Sometime in certain movies when the screen goes black in between scenes, the screen is not as inky black as the two horizontal bars. Is there something wrong with my settings or is it how those particular movies were mastered? I thought the whole thing about these Oled tvs was that when a scene cuts tv looks like it is off

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I switch to 4:4:4 as well and got the same results, banding is gone. Before I had it set to 4:2:2 and 10 bit and had the banding. It is noticably better after the change.
Tried the same thing with the same movie on my Nvidia shield, set to 4:4:4, and it's gone there as well.
But Auto should go to 444....or at least that is what it seems to be doing on my Samsung 8500 player
Could be. I don't have any way to check that on mine.

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Vignetting during input changes or loading of source material

This is the infamous vignetting issue. I've read it was fixed with the 2016 models, but that doesn't seem to be the case. I actually exchanged my first set because I thought it was too visible. The second set I got seems better, but it still has it, mostly on the right side of the screen. From what I've read, this is more common on the 65", and most have it to some degree. Unfortunately, I think this is just a fact of life with these OLEDs for now. Some people have said it improves over time, so we'll see. My set shows obvious vignetting on gray test patterns, but I've only seen it a couple of times in actual content, and probably only because I know where to look. Overall, it seems like a minor problem, but it is a little annoying. You'd think for the prices they charge, they could find a way around this. OTOH, my LCD TV had a whole range of other issues.

Here's a shot of my first panel. My current one is a bit better.
Hi All,

I'm the typical 'new guy' to this forum so please forgive me for for asking questions that have already been answered. I took the plunge and got a 55C6P delivered in early December. I initially just copied the reccomended settings from Rtings until just recently when I purchased the Spears and Munsil 2nd edition blu-ray. I haven't had a solid chunk of time to perform a detailed adjustment on my set yet unfortunately. Anyways, I noticed an issue with the tv showing wide foggy vertical stripes in the black/dark screen that appears during loading when I open apps such as Neflix or during the brief moment of time between changing channels on my basic digital adapter provided by TWC. It seems as though this immediately goes away once the content is loaded however which leads me to believe there is not necessarily something wrong with the set but rather the source material is sending something along the lines of a 'blank' or 'black' (for lack of a better term) signal while loading and/or the tv's contrast/brightness settings simply need to be adjusted so this appears true black rather than dark gray. The gray's in the image do look similar to the previous post's attached image (which was described as vignetting) however they don't quite seem as splotchy and are more uniform vertical stripes. Just wondering if any of the more experienced forum members who may have had these sets a little longer have encountered this and if there should be any cause for concern.

Thanks in advance everybody
 
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