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Haha ;)
Yeah, I have had SOME better luck with Magnolia (the 'high end' store within the store at Best Buy, where they have it), but even they are not half as up on this stuff as most people not his forum ;)

I was by Best Buy in San Rafael,CA and decided to have a look at the new LG OLED's. They only had the G6 on display. After a few second a sales guy came over and asked if I was interested in buying the TV. I said that I was - that being the truth. He was running a video on the TV and he explained that it was 1080p upscaled to 4K. It looked very good. I asked if he would put a regular TV channel, such as ABC, CBS, or similar so that I could see what it would look like. He said that he couldn't do it "at this time" (whatever that meant !!).

I asked if he would recommend a specific wall mount for the 65" G6. He went on to explain that there were only a few wall mounts that would work for this TV and that they would need to add an adapter for it. (Really ???!!!) Ok, next question.

What audio can the HDMI ARC pass thru to the receiver? His fast reply was "Well, you'll get 4K sound". When I looked at him trying to check if I heard him right, he quickly said without loosing a beat: "But if you connect it to the optical output you'll get even better sound" (WOW !!! Better sound that 4K ??? Wow!! )
"If this TV is too expensive for you, we can order an E6 for you instead? he said.
"And what would be the difference between the G6 and the E6 ?, I said.
"Two thousand dollars !!"

Well..., now I know where I will not be buying my next TV.
 

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That sucks, there seems to be a few E6 with 100% uniformity issues, but most of them seem to be a big improvement. Fingers crossed... I don't even know what LG would do if I had issues with the TV they are upgrading me too (for free). They'd probably tell me to F off, haha.

Looking at wxman's 604 E6 makes me drool: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-oled-technology-flat-panels-general/2367625-2016-lg-oled-65g6p-65e6p-owners-thread-126.html#post44006882
On my 2nd E655 and my observation has been no yellow staining with Warm1, Warm2 you will see some yellow uniformity. To be honest I have 120 hours now and the tinting seems to be evening out. The other thing is in my case tinting started after about 25 hours or so. Also in my case with my first E6 I ran the comp cycles more frequently..
This one I've been letting it do its thing. Only 1 manual CC in a 120 hours. Slides look like $hit. PQ looks unreal. My 2 cents.

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HTML:
Has anyone made/shared a i1 display pro calibration profile file (.ccss) for the set yet, etc? I know sillysally shared his for the EF9500 and it was really helpful for calibrating.

On my 2nd E655 and my observation has been no yellow staining with Warm1, Warm2 you will see some yellow uniformity. To be honest I have 120 hours now and the tinting seems to be evening out. The other thing is in my case tinting started after about 25 hours or so. Also in my case with my first E6 I ran the comp cycles more frequently..
This one I've been letting it do its thing. Only 1 manual CC in a 120 hours. Slides look like $hit. PQ looks unreal. My 2 cents.

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Warm 2 is the only "accurate" color temp on LG OLEDs, so that's definitely what I would use. I'll be doing a 20pt calibration and targeting 6500k.

I used to hunt for dead pixels on my first HDTV in 2007. After the 3rd attempt to return, the BB store manager said "it isn't realistic to keep exchanging sets, even if I could some how notice the dead pixel during regular content, but that there is also no such thing as 100% live pixels and if you want that, you have to buy a Sony as they are the only ones who manufacture panels (at the time) with guaranteed 99.9%+." I'm not sure how much of this is still true today, but I have to imagine that at 4k resolution, the pixel densities have to be so tiny, I can't imagine a couple of pixels would be noticeable in any content. I guess I'm surprised almost 10 years later, I still see people looking for bad pixels and/or returning sets because of them. Am I way off here guys? Please explain if I am, I'm always willing to be schooled and learn something.
Depends on what you use the set for. If you use it as a PC monitor, one dead pixel is very noticeable especially if it's towards the center of the screen - even at 4k. If you use it as a typical TV, then there's no way your seeing it. Even with a solid screen I am unable to see a dead pixel on a 65" 4K after about 7 feet away... I think most people tend to sit about 8-10 feet away.
 

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Since I won't be investing in a 4k capable receiver until the NR1607 comes out and is reviewed, I'm left with having to use my NR1603 which is NOT 4k compatible. Can I do something like this with the E6 and a HDMI cable instead of using optical-out? The sources would therefore be a HTPC and a Nvidia Shield TV. Both can pass DTS-HD MA to the TV and it should pass that through to the receiver. I tried but it wouldn't work ... has anyone gotten anything similar working?

Also - judging from the HDCP error reports for Roku4, would you say that the NVidia Shield TV is a better choice for a media player? Kodi doesn't render the GUI at 4K on the Shield TV, but it is supposed to play HEVC 10bit video without problems (apparently, which is more than what Intel Skylake can currently do)


(image courtesy of rtings.com)
You won't get DTS-HD MA from the TV to the receiver, since neither S/PDIF nor ARC support the required bandwidth. At best you'll get plain DTS.

HTML:
Has anyone made/shared a i1 display pro calibration profile file (.ccss) for the set yet, etc? I know sillysally shared his for the EF9500 and it was really helpful for calibrating.

Warm 2 is the only "accurate" color temp on LG OLEDs, so that's definitely what I would use. I'll be doing a 20pt calibration and targeting 6500k.

Depends on what you use the set for. If you use it as a PC monitor, one dead pixel is very noticeable especially if it's towards the center of the screen - even at 4k.
Can you clarify what you mean by "accurate"? Do you mean closest to the panel's native white point? What's inaccurate about the other color temperatures?
 

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Can you clarify what you mean by "accurate"? Do you mean closest to the panel's native white point? What's inaccurate about the other color temperatures?
I mean closest to 6500k color (the universally accepted reference standard). Unless something has changed with the E6, all LG OLEDs prior shipped with Warm2 as the default in ISF presets and anything else resulted in skewing further and further away from 6500k (pushing too much blue).

Lots of TVs ship with a much colder (blue) temp than 6500k because it makes them "pop" more in the stores, but if you paid any professional to come calibrate the display they will always target 6500k.
 

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Can you take a picture of it. I do not see it under ISF bright. What device is attached to tv that you are watching? Is it the feed from the AVR, or is the device connected directly to tv?
@wxman here you go. 1st pic is from the TV media player streaming from my NAS. 2nd pic is from HDMI 1 and my FIOS cable box.
 

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Oh and I do not have any intermediate devices. My cable box is hooked straight into my TV.
 

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Maybe the wrong firmware was pushed to the wrong sets lol. That looks like a LED setting not applicable to oled. Wow

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I used to hunt for dead pixels on my first HDTV in 2007. After the 3rd attempt to return, the BB store manager said "it isn't realistic to keep exchanging sets, even if I could some how notice the dead pixel during regular content, but that there is also no such thing as 100% live pixels and if you want that, you have to buy a Sony as they are the only ones who manufacture panels (at the time) with guaranteed 99.9%+." I'm not sure how much of this is still true today, but I have to imagine that at 4k resolution, the pixel densities have to be so tiny, I can't imagine a couple of pixels would be noticeable in any content. I guess I'm surprised almost 10 years later, I still see people looking for bad pixels and/or returning sets because of them. Am I way off here guys? Please explain if I am, I'm always willing to be schooled and learn something.
I was quite alright with the 2 dead green subpixels at the top edge of the screen but the one that completely died in a more central location was too much. With 4K if you want to take full advantage of the resolution, ~6 feet away from the screen is actually the recommended distance (for a 65"). With an entirely dead pixel, if you have a brightly lit smooth background and are watching from that distance with 20/20 or greater vision AND happen to know the location of the pixel defect, you very well might detect it. The EF9500 I had prior was pixel perfect.

Disclaimer: I don't sit this far away from the screen *all* the time, but when I do I'd rather not see (or have my eyes being drawn to) black dots on a $6k or $8k TV.
 

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@wxman here you go. 1st pic is from the TV media player streaming from my NAS. 2nd pic is from HDMI 1 and my FIOS cable box.
WebOS 3.0 is shared across all LG 2016 TVs. My guess is the setting does absolutely nothing, and they simply forgot to disable it from showing in the menus.

If you change it, and see any differences, then I'd be more alarmed.
 

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Wow what build is yours? Mine is a 604 and I don't have that option in my menus
Mine is a 604 also. And no it doesn't have any effect on the picture. I'm watching Sin City now and it's doing nothing to the black level.
 
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That sucks, there seems to be a few E6 with 100% uniformity issues, but most of them seem to be a big improvement. Fingers crossed... I don't even know what LG would do if I had issues with the TV they are upgrading me too (for free). They'd probably tell me to F off, haha.

Looking at wxman's 604 E6 makes me drool: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-oled-technology-flat-panels-general/2367625-2016-lg-oled-65g6p-65e6p-owners-thread-126.html#post44006882
Yea, that's looking pretty solid. Here's what my solid white looks like just now at 148 hours (with Warm2 ;)). As you can see the gradation is quite faint.
 

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I need the LG VIP service number, guys. Got my E6 from BB today and it has a bad FPR - really nasty. It's wildly uneven over the whole screen, with especially ugly horizontal bands across the top and the bottom, each taking up about a quarter of the screen. It's hopelessly broken 3D.

I'll work directly with LG VIP on this one. Anyone got the number handy?
 

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855-400-4640

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Yea, that's looking pretty solid. Here's what my solid white looks like just now at 148 hours (with Warm2 ;)). As you can see the gradation is quite faint.
That's NOTHING compared to the 5 EF9500s I went through. I'd be very happy with that!

Here's my second best EF9500 of the bunch (in terms of 100% uniformity). This one was my final exchange, which LG is picking up and replacing with an E6 (due to dark edges and banding). Still way worse than yours, easily noticeable on the desktop.
 

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That's NOTHING compared to the 5 EF9500s I went through. I'd be very happy with that!

Here's my second best EF9500 of the bunch (in terms of 100% uniformity). This one was my final exchange, which LG is picking up and replacing with an E6 (due to dark edges and banding). Still way worse than yours, easily noticeable on the desktop.
I've got the EF (October build) pic up here somewheres, which is an improvement over all of the above. I guess I'm the luckiest with full white uniformity. It's that near-black stuff where the lottery gods do not smile down upon me (and apparently pixel mortality). Nevertheless, you should be thrilled with your E6.
 

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I've got the EF (October build) pic up here somewheres, which is an improvement over all of the above. I guess I'm the luckiest with full white uniformity. It's that near-black stuff where the lottery gods do not smile down upon me (and apparently pixel mortality). Nevertheless, you should be thrilled with your E6.
The panel showed above is from the newest batch of EF9500 panels (according to LG VIP). I was baffled that the dark edges were still there, because I was under the impression all new EF9500 panels actually had reverse-dark edges. I'm guessing they sent me old stock by mistake, but whatever free E6 is free E6. :D
 
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