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Just did a touch up on calibration, 10hr vs 60hr. Pretty significant difference in some areas (gamma curve and red tint), and a semi-minor 1.5dE difference across grayscale. Made sure sensor was in the same spot. "Final" touchup will be at 300hrs.
 

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Yup, the power supply this year has a much softer click.

The inconvenient thing is that on the G6, the electronics are enclosed in such a fashion in the base that there's no way to see if the cycle is being engaged (that I've seen yet). Chock it up to another inadvertent pro for the E6! A Kill-a-Watt or similar power meter would help to remove all doubt, I'm sure.
Still no banding after 150 hours on my E6
Riddick (2013) is amazing on thisnset. Like watching it completely new. Super dark movie.
I envy you. Still waiting to see the first UHD OLED with no vertical banding. I must be ridiculously sensitive to near black anomalies. I blame the Kuro pedigree for making me so hyperaware.
 

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I noticed there's a "QuickStart+" in the options now that makes it so the TV doesn't fully turn off. I disabled it in fear that it could prevent cycles from happening.
Hey just to let you know the Tv has to be in "standby" mode. So if you turn of quick start you are insuring the compensation cycle does not run......just an FYI
Both of those would be really weird design decisions on LG's part. Why would they intentionally provide an option that lets a customer inadvertently prevent an important maintenance operation from running?

It will run with either quick start enabled or disabled. It will not run if you completely shut power off to tv. In other words, it won't run if you unplug the tv.
To reiterate, @wxman has it right. The TV will delay entering its lowest power state until after the compensation cycle has completed either way. LG isn't completely incompetent. :rolleyes:
 

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Does anyone else's E6 not propagate on the YouTube app any more as a Casting option? It used to propagate on the YouTube app, and I would cast YouTube videos to the TV, but the E6 is no longer an option on the dropdown. Anyone have any idea what is occurring?

Before anyone asks, yes, my E6 and my iPhone are both connected the same WiFi network.
 

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My 65EP is a week old. Today, for the first time, the picture disappeared for a few seconds and a message saying "This app will now restart to free up more memory" appeared on the screen along with a graphic showing HDMI1. The picture came back after a few seconds. I was watching live television and HDMI one is the input for my Directv box. Then it started happening every 20-30 seconds. It also happened when watching a recorded program on my Directv receiver. I turned the TV off and back on but the problem continued and seemed to get even more frequent. I unplugged the TV and plugged it back in and am waiting to see if it still happens. I don't have any apps other than the ones that came with the television. The firmware was updated last week. Would appreciate any advice as this makes it impossible to watch the television (and the Warriors are on Sunday night).
Sorry for the bump but can anyone provide advice on this problem? Has anyone else experienced it?
 

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Does anyone else's E6 not propagate on the YouTube app any more as a Casting option? It used to propagate on the YouTube app, and I would cast YouTube videos to the TV, but the E6 is no longer an option on the dropdown. Anyone have any idea what is occurring?

Before anyone asks, yes, my E6 and my iPhone are both connected the same WiFi network.
I was just using mine to cast this weekend.
 

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10% return rate so 90% of buyers happy, for cutting edge tech they can't get anywhere else?
Using AVS owners as our database, an admittedly more demanding group than most, it certainly appears the return rate is far higher than 10%. Do we have a poll on that?
 

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59 hours on mine and the band lines that appeared after about 10 hours of usage are starting to fade it looks like. I am noticing them less and less but I can still make them out across the entire 5-100% pattern sweep. I've done 6 manual compensation over the last few days trying to get them to disappear and they don't seem to do anything. The automatic cycles seem to make the biggest difference.
I thought the automatic cycle was less aggressive than the manual cycle. Is that not the case?
 

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Sorry for the bump but can anyone provide advice on this problem? Has anyone else experienced it?


Do you have everything running through an AVR? Sounds like a handshake issue. Have you tried to change out cables?
 

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I thought the automatic cycle was less aggressive than the manual cycle. Is that not the case?
Some have believed this to be the case based both on comments from an LG technician and a review stating that the manual cycle takes much longer than the automatic one. My belief is that the technician was just speculating (incorrectly), and that the review was thrown off by the menu description stating that the manual cycle and any pending software updates (which are apparently installed before the TV is allowed to enter standby and begin the cycle) may take up to an hour to complete.

I have timed two manual cycles and several automatic ones, and they take just about the same amount of time to complete. Given that, I don't see why the set would be doing anything differently in each case.
 

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Some have believed this to be the case based both on comments from an LG technician and a review stating that the manual cycle takes much longer than the automatic one. My belief is that the technician was just speculating (incorrectly), and that the review was thrown off by the menu description stating that the manual cycle and any pending software updates (which are apparently installed before the TV is allowed to enter standby and begin the cycle) may take up to an hour to complete.

I have timed two manual cycles and several automatic ones, and they take just about the same amount of time to complete. Given that, I don't see why the set would be doing anything differently in each case.
The manual cycle does take one hour. The red optical light does turn off after 10 minutes like the automatic cycle. However, If you run the manual cycle where the tv turns back on, you will see a white line go from top to bottom over the screen, right before it turns back on. That is exactly 1 hour. So the tv must be running some low power screen correction after the main 10 minute screen cycle.
 

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The manual cycle does take one hour. The red optical light does turn off after 10 minutes like the automatic cycle. However, If you run the manual cycle where the tv turns back on, you will see a white line go from top to bottom over the screen, right before it turns back on. That is exactly 1 hour. So the tv must be running some low power screen correction after the main 10 minute screen cycle.
Also, as I'm sure you've seen, this cycle is set to run every 2000 hours automatically in the service menu.
 

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What are people doing for the Color Gamut setting? Turning it to wide when watching UHD/HDR content, and turning it to normal when watching other content? Do you have to do this manually before watching something, every time?
 

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What are people doing for the Color Gamut setting? Turning it to wide when watching UHD/HDR content, and turning it to normal when watching other content? Do you have to do this manually before watching something, every time?
When watching HDR, the tv switches to the HDR picture mode, and when you are done with watching HDR, it will switch back to the previous picture mode you were using. So no reason to manually turn on/off WCG.
 

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I thought I read somewhere that running the manual cycle lowers the life cycle of the oled panel
LG has never stated that it shortens the lifespan of the panel. That was some author just speculating in a review of the tv. My guess, is running the manual cycle more often, does not improve the screen. The automatic cycle takes care of the daily IR, while the manual fixes the gradual degradation that occurs over 2000 hours. Most people see no difference between the automatic cycle and the 1 hour manual cycle.
 

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When watching HDR, the tv switches to the HDR picture mode, and when you are done with watching HDR, it will switch back to the previous picture mode you were using. So no reason to manually turn on/off WCG.
Oh, yeah...duh (brain fart on my end)
 
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