You seem to have more pronounced banding than I do and I have more pronounced vignetting, but fewer 'teeth'. Then I look at my Sony 940c with a 5% slide and it's uniformity blows away any of the OLED pix I've seen.I just hit 200 hours and decided to do a band comparison on my E6. I honestly expected more of an improvement as I am still seeing this 1 band in real content (the one slightly to the right of center) on a regular basis. The band is not just near black, it can be seen with any 5% pattern up to 100% white to varying degrees, so any panning scene shows it.
Just to recap, the first photo was taken at 10 hours. Those bands did not exist after initial power on or after a manual 1hr compensation cycle. The next day when I turned the TV on, they were there and very noticeable in real content. The second photo is at 200 hours, as you can see there is some improvements but the worst band is still as vivid as ever.
I think I am going to give this another 100 hours and if there isn't an improvement to it, I am going to be calling LG. Going by other owner's 5% slides, this seems to be on the bottom tier of banding/uniformity.
I would go with the B series if 3d isnt important. The core performance is going to be very close if not identical.Hi,
New to the forum and wanted to ask a simple question. Is there any difference in the picture quality between the G, E and B OLED models? We wanted to buy this set for my husband for Fathers Day and wasn't sure. Despite price we can go with the G, but if we can go with the B (aside from form factor and loss of 3D) we think he would be ok with that. He current has a 60" Sony SXRD that has given us 9+ years of beautiful picture quality and zero issues other than replacing the bulb once.
Thank you in advance. fr your help and insight
The E and C look to have the same firmware versioning (03.15.10)
The G is on a seperate versioning (03.15.15)
If everything was exactly the same then why are E and C sharing firmware versioning and G is not. All are great TVs but there is a difference somewhere in working parts.. Maybe the E and C just happen to have different firmware with similar versioning numbers.
The cloud of uncertainty about what may be different is something I'd rather not live with.. If it means a waste of $2000 to ensure no performance suprises later, so be it.
OK - thx - I'll try this tomorrow. my UHD IP-TV Box is having HDMI Problems with the Pioneer SC-LX79, thats why I'll connected on HDMI 1.
I'll try to change the settings as mentioned, as AV Sync is for sure on now.
I'm pretty sure, that it only starts after around 4 hours of watching.
Someone mentioned, that I can see how many hours the TV is running. Is a service remote needed to get these infos, as I could not found anything under "about this TV"
I own Deadpool, Independence Day, and Ghostbusters on UHD Blu-ray and my digital copies are just HDX on Vudu.Which is what i thought and exactly opposite of what the VUDU guy said.
I called them to figure out how to get a movie i already bought in 1080 and then bought in 4K redeemed as 4K. I keep getting punted and it says: you already own this movie and then won't redeem the code.
Once my E Series shows up i will try and call back out there.
Thanks and if anyone has redeemed multiple copies let me know the trick.
I would go with the B series if 3d isnt important. The core performance is going to be very close if not identical.
I don't believe VUDU has those movies available in UHD.I own Deadpool, Independence Day, and Ghostbusters on UHD Blu-ray and my digital copies are just HDX on Vudu.
I believe this.. I went into BB on a mission to score a E6.. LG is placing a thin film of OLED display into casing.. I envision the OLED film is mass produced and put into all TVs.. The G allows more of the effect that a pencil thick display from the side view produces a picture like that from the front.. The amazingness of it all is worth the extra duckets.I certainly don't think it's significant