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Watched The Hunger Games UHD blu ray tonight on my E6. HDR did not do this movie any favors. IMO, it's looks worse than the SDR blu ray version. Even when the credits rolled, it looked bad as the white letters flickered. Never seen that before on any UHD movie.
 

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Watched The Hunger Games UHD blu ray tonight on my E6. HDR did not do this movie any favors. IMO, it's looks worse than the SDR blu ray version. Even when the credits rolled, it looked bad as the white letters flickered. Never seen that before on any UHD movie.
Ouch. You think it was the transfer then? Seems that quite a few of these 4K UHD discs aren't so great. Meanwhile, I've been watching a lot of my blu Ray collection and my goodness they look amazing on my 65" E6.

Is this HDR stuff slightly over rated? I dunno. Some of the demos of it do look spectacular like the LG chess demo and a few other but other times it's quite meh or as you said, worse than a standard version. Hmmmmm.
 

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Hey guys, just picked up my new LG 55" E6 TV last night. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get it up and running because my night was spent building a new Ikea TV Bench that the wife and I picked out the other day. My old Glass TV stand was ok, but it was very open and allowed you to see all the wires and junk sitting on top. Now everything is neatly hidden in a bench with drawers and smoked glass doors (should look really slick when all set up).

Anyways, just wanted to say hello and I am super excited to join the club. My previous TV was a Sony 55" HX729 LED TV so I am hoping for a significant upgrade. Was browsing in the market and was deciding between the Samsung 8000/9000 line or the LG line. Decided to spend the extra money since I have a crap load of 3D movies that I would have lost access to had I gone with the Samsungs instead. I do more than just game on the TV so I can live with a slightly higher input lag.

Anyways, just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction for some possible optimal settings on the TV. I will have to go in and tweak a bunch of stuff no doubt, so was hoping someone can give me a starting off point at least. I was browsing this thread and there seems to be a lot that I need to adjust, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

:)
 

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I'm not sure that I am telling you anything that you don't already know, buy I'll try anyway.
You don't mention which Harmony you have, but I have the Harmony One. I also don't want my Yamaha on when watching
the news etc. I set up two activities. One with HT, one with TV speakers.
There is no way that the Harmony can tell which speaker settings that you are currently using, so you will have to
choose that manually. I have to admit that I didn't know that I wasn't getting 5.1 with both internal & external speakers
selected, so it was always set to that setting. Now, I'll have to go in and see for myself.
The main thing though, at least as a starting point is to have two separate activities.
If you are already doing this, then sorry I couldn't be more help. . .

Eneg
Thanks Eneg - 2 activities is reasonable - in fact, with just the cable/TV, I can just use the xfinity remote. As you noted/learned, the problem is that selecting both internal/external speakers on the LG only passes 2-channel to the HT, not 5.1. It will only pass 5.1 with the optical/HDMI only selected, not using the internal speakers. So it seems that there's no solution to having to manually select LG speaker output each time...
 

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Thanks Eneg - 2 activities is reasonable - in fact, with just the cable/TV, I can just use the xfinity remote. As you noted/learned, the problem is that selecting both internal/external speakers on the LG only passes 2-channel to the HT, not 5.1. It will only pass 5.1 with the optical/HDMI only selected, not using the internal speakers. So it seems that there's no solution to having to manually select LG speaker output each time...


Perhaps, I'm not quite seeing the issue, but I'm the same as most in here that I don't always use the amp sound, so news or watching late at night and not wanting to annoy the neighbours.

I have my E6 setup to turn on the amp through cec, simplink etc and audio set to amp via arc. So I get Netflix 5.1 etc. If I then manually turn off the amp, the TV stays on and plays audio through the TV speakers be that an inbuilt app or via my set top box or console. When my amp is off it passes through whichever channel was last used (so not fully off, but not visible to the TV). Then if I turn the amp back on, the TV reverts to audio over arc.




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Hey guys, just picked up my new LG 55" E6 TV last night. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get it up and running because my night was spent building a new Ikea TV Bench that the wife and I picked out the other day. My old Glass TV stand was ok, but it was very open and allowed you to see all the wires and junk sitting on top. Now everything is neatly hidden in a bench with drawers and smoked glass doors (should look really slick when all set up).

Anyways, just wanted to say hello and I am super excited to join the club. My previous TV was a Sony 55" HX729 LED TV so I am hoping for a significant upgrade. Was browsing in the market and was deciding between the Samsung 8000/9000 line or the LG line. Decided to spend the extra money since I have a crap load of 3D movies that I would have lost access to had I gone with the Samsungs instead. I do more than just game on the TV so I can live with a slightly higher input lag.

Anyways, just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction for some possible optimal settings on the TV. I will have to go in and tweak a bunch of stuff no doubt, so was hoping someone can give me a starting off point at least. I was browsing this thread and there seems to be a lot that I need to adjust, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

:)
Welcome, friend. Great choice!!!

As for settings, each TV is different of course so settings dont transfer well all the time. Most of the preset picture modes like sports, Vivid, etc are pretty bad. Most of us use Expert Dark Room or Expert Bright Room as a starting point and then tweak from there. Both are decent out of the box.

I own the 65" E6 but in general here are some starting points for you:

Mode - Expert Dark Room(This mode and setting ranges Im giving you assume a pretty dark room with no real ambient light at all)
OLED Light: 35-50
Contrast: 80-84
Brightness: 50-52(if you can use a test pattern to set this, its well worth it.)
Color/Tint: 50/0(leave these alone unless you have proper calibration stuff or a disc)
H&V sharpness: 10/10(leave alone, IMO)

Picture Enhancements/Options: Most guys leave these ALL Off but you can try a few out to see what you think. Most just muck things up but some users like some of them. Your TV, your call!

Tru Motion: This is a personal preference. I have been using TruMotion/User with dejudder at 2-3 and Deblur at 8 for blu-ray & 24fps content. I shut it OFF for all other content though. Try out different settings and see what you like.

Color Gamut: Normal
Gamma: BT1886(some perfer 2.2 for dark room but I like BT1886. Try both and see what you think)

White Balance 2point & 20 Point: Dont mess with these for now unless you have calibration gear or whatever. There are some adjustments that can be done to enhance shadow detail & avoid crush but lets not worry about that right now. Just try out these setting ranges with mixed content.

For daytime or bright room viewing, start with Expert Bright Room and basically bump up the OLED light, use gamma 2.2, and maybe bump up Brightness & Contrast a tad more and it should look decent.

Start there and see what you think. Bear in mind that if you use several inputs and want the settings to transfer to ALL inputs then be sure to select "Apply to All Inputs" on the setting sscreen when you make changes. Also, if you watch HDR or Dolby Vision content then the TV will kick into those picture modes and thats all you can choose from. The settings that you can change in those modes are limited. Have fun.

BTW - Its your TV so ultimately set it up however YOU like it. Dont let me or anyone else tell you to turn this OFF or that ON or whatever else. If it looks good to YOU then thats what matters! :)
 

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Perhaps, I'm not quite seeing the issue, but I'm the same as most in here that I don't always use the amp sound, so news or watching late at night and not wanting to annoy the neighbours.

I have my E6 setup to turn on the amp through cec, simplink etc and audio set to amp via arc. So I get Netflix 5.1 etc. If I then manually turn off the amp, the TV stays on and plays audio through the TV speakers be that an inbuilt app or via my set top box or console. When my amp is off it passes through whichever channel was last used (so not fully off, but not visible to the TV). Then if I turn the amp back on, the TV reverts to audio over arc.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks - so, I just tried this, turning cec on and sound over cec on the LG, and it turns my yamaha a3050 on with 5.1 sound through the yamaha. Then when I turn the yamaha off, the LG automatically shifts to internal speakers. I then turn off the TV and cable. When I turn it back on, the LG sound is still on internal speakers (stereo, not 5.1), even though the yamaha is on. So the LG doesn't put the speaker input back to cec. Am I missing something? Thanks again...
 

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From what I understand, 2.1 needs new I/O chips from HDMI, and it would be quite remarkable if LG was thinking that far ahead 3 or so years ago when the current OLED line was being designed.

It's possible, but kind of unlikely.

Now some of the 2.1 spec might be available via a firmware update, perhaps some form of Dynamic HDR. But there's no way current I/O chips can support the 48gig data rate required by the full 2.1 spec.

The spec is backward compatible with 2.0, and the connector form factor remains the same, but need new cables with a relatively short maximum length for copper based cables.
Right that's what they are probably doing. Adding some of the features but there is no need for 48 GB now or anytime soon anyway.
 

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Welcome, friend. Great choice!!!

As for settings, each TV is different of course so settings dont transfer well all the time. Most of the preset picture modes like sports, Vivid, etc are pretty bad. Most of us use Expert Dark Room or Expert Bright Room as a starting point and then tweak from there. Both are decent out of the box.

I own the 65" E6 but in general here are some starting points for you:

Mode - Expert Dark Room(This mode and setting ranges Im giving you assume a pretty dark room with no real ambient light at all)
OLED Light: 35-50
Contrast: 80-84
Brightness: 50-52(if you can use a test pattern to set this, its well worth it.)
Color/Tint: 50/0(leave these alone unless you have proper calibration stuff or a disc)
H&V sharpness: 10/10(leave alone, IMO)

Picture Enhancements/Options: Most guys leave these ALL Off but you can try a few out to see what you think. Most just muck things up but some users like some of them. Your TV, your call!

Tru Motion: This is a personal preference. I have been using TruMotion/User with dejudder at 2-3 and Deblur at 8 for blu-ray & 24fps content. I shut it OFF for all other content though. Try out different settings and see what you like.

Color Gamut: Normal
Gamma: BT1886(some perfer 2.2 for dark room but I like BT1886. Try both and see what you think)

White Balance 2point & 20 Point: Dont mess with these for now unless you have calibration gear or whatever. There are some adjustments that can be done to enhance shadow detail & avoid crush but lets not worry about that right now. Just try out these setting ranges with mixed content.

For daytime or bright room viewing, start with Expert Bright Room and basically bump up the OLED light, use gamma 2.2, and maybe bump up Brightness & Contrast a tad more and it should look decent.

Start there and see what you think. Bear in mind that if you use several inputs and want the settings to transfer to ALL inputs then be sure to select "Apply to All Inputs" on the setting sscreen when you make changes. Also, if you watch HDR or Dolby Vision content then the TV will kick into those picture modes and thats all you can choose from. The settings that you can change in those modes are limited. Have fun.

BTW - Its your TV so ultimately set it up however YOU like it. Dont let me or anyone else tell you to turn this OFF or that ON or whatever else. If it looks good to YOU then thats what matters! :)
Thanks for the response RoadLizard. I will apply some of your settings and play around a bit. SO many things to consider and adjust... remember when TV's were simple and you just turned them on? :p
 

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Good to hear the 2016 models will support HLG with a FW update according to LG at CES. That is good news! You can hear his response near the 3:45 mark.


I'm hoping they upgrade the 2016 models to pass ATMOS over ARC has they are saying the 2017s will be able to do it.
In the interviews (like the one Wxman posted last page) it sounds like the TV's 2017 just support Atmos audio through the built in sound. He says they changed the speaker arrangements in the built in audio on all the panels to support "Atmos" (if you can really call it that coming from built in sound :p). Nothing about Atmos passthrough over ARC.

Appears you'll likely have to wait for the higher bandwidth of HDMI 2.1 (which the 2017 models don't have) to ever expect Atmos over ARC.
 

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Thanks - so, I just tried this, turning cec on and sound over cec on the LG, and it turns my yamaha a3050 on with 5.1 sound through the yamaha. Then when I turn the yamaha off, the LG automatically shifts to internal speakers. I then turn off the TV and cable. When I turn it back on, the LG sound is still on internal speakers (stereo, not 5.1), even though the yamaha is on. So the LG doesn't put the speaker input back to cec. Am I missing something? Thanks again...


Is your cable going directly to the TV or via the amp? I only have the amp going to the TV and a bluray, but in the case of bluray it has two hdmi out, so the audio goes through the amp anyway.

Have you tried manually turning the amp back on before turning the TV off?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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In the interviews (like the one Wxman posted last page) it sounds like the TV's 2017 just support Atmos audio through the built in sound. He says they changed the speaker arrangements in the built in audio on all the panels to support "Atmos" (if you can really call it that coming from built in sound :p). Nothing about Atmos passthrough over ARC.

Appears you'll likely have to wait for the higher bandwidth of HDMI 2.1 (which the 2017 models don't have) to ever expect Atmos over ARC.
Maybe my ears were just wanting to hear what they wanted but it sounds a little stoopids to not pass the 5.1.2 over ARC. I can still hope
 

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Maybe my ears were just wanting to hear what they wanted but it sounds a little stoopids to not pass the 5.1.2 over ARC. I can still hope


Unfortunately, current arc standards are based on optical standards, which max out at 5.1 none hd audio. I thought TV manufactures might have got round this with a dedicated hdmi out port, by v2.1 may be the answer.

It's something I did want in a TV and why I ended up using nvidia shield. It does hd audio, 4K and standard HDR, but not DV.


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Is your cable going directly to the TV or via the amp? I only have the amp going to the TV and a bluray, but in the case of bluray it has two hdmi out, so the audio goes through the amp anyway.

Have you tried manually turning the amp back on before turning the TV off?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. My setup is the same as yours - xfinity box to AVR, AVR to TV (Blu-ray video to TV, audio to AVR). I haven't tried manually turning the amp back on before turning the TV off (I'm not home right now), but it's beginning to be as inconvenient as manually changing the speaker output directly on the LG each time I want to use the TV apps with HT...
 

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Maybe my ears were just wanting to hear what they wanted but it sounds a little stoopids to not pass the 5.1.2 over ARC. I can still hope
LG's website specifically states on the 77W7P product page:
"From state-of-the-art theaters to the home: With Dolby Atmos®, sounds can move anywhere, including above the listener for the ultimate in surround audio. Discover Dolby Atmos (on select titles) through the TV speakers, or pass through to a compatible home theater system for the full experience."

Sounds like LG is implementing DD+ over ARC this year, just like their competition. The only other option would be a a dedicated HDMI audio output back to the AVR and it doesn't mention that under the specs.
 

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Sounds like LG is implementing DD+ over ARC this year, just like their competition.
The only way to do that with the current HDMI spec (and its bandwidth limitations) is to do what Vizio is doing: compress the living hell out of it.

Personally, I'd rather have clean 5.1 DD than MP3 quality DD+, but I do understand that different people have different priorities.
 

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The only way to do that with the current HDMI spec (and its bandwidth limitations) is to do what Vizio is doing: compress the living hell out of it.

Personally, I'd rather have clean 5.1 DD than MP3 quality DD+, but I do understand that different people have different priorities.
From Wikipedia
Dolby Digital Plus[edit]

Main article: Dolby Digital Plus
E-AC-3 (Dolby Digital Plus) is an enhanced coding system based on the AC-3 codec. It offers increased bitrates (up to 6.144 Mbit/s), support for more audio channels (up to 13.1), and improved coding techniques (only at low data rates) to reduce compression artifacts, enabling lower data rates than those supported by AC-3 (e.g. 5.1-channel audio at 256 kbit/s). It is not backward compatible with existing AC-3 hardware, though E-AC-3 codecs generally are capable of transcoding to
DD+ can support lower or higher bitrates. Netflix and Amazon (and others) are sending out DD+ so transcoding to DD can only be equal or lower quality to the original source. DD+ is a Plus for streaming services. :p

- Rich
 

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Keeping in mind that events conspire, and promises made at trade shows sometimes never reach the reality stage...

This link was posted a while back:

http://a-swiss.ch/Downloads/LG_DEMO_4K_OLED_HDR.zip

Very slow site, took me several attempts with Firefox's 'resume download' function, but finally got it. About 3.5 GB.

And the videos look stunning on my E6 playing back from a USB3 stick.


I downloaded this file (3.74GB) but I can't unzip it, I get message that says "Please insert the last disk of the Multi-Volume set and click OK to continue".
Is there another part to this demo zip that I need, or is my extraction program messing up?
I'll try to open it on another computer when I get home tonight.
 

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I downloaded this file (3.74GB) but I can't unzip it, I get message that says "Please insert the last disk of the Multi-Volume set and click OK to continue".
Is there another part to this demo zip that I need, or is my extraction program messing up?
I'll try to open it on another computer when I get home tonight.
The ZIP file is a single self-contained file. It's either corrupt, or your extraction program has a problem.
 

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From Wikipedia

DD+ can support lower or higher bitrates. Netflix and Amazon (and others) are sending out DD+ so transcoding to DD can only be equal or lower quality to the original source. DD+ is a Plus for streaming services. :p

- Rich
The streaming services compress the DD+ they send out. Then it gets to the app in the set, which most sets currently downconvert/crossconvert/drop 2 channels (however they do it) to get to DD 5.1 to make it fit into the available ARC container size in the HDMI spec.

In order to fit the DD+ info into that same sized ARC container, it has to be further compressed either in the set or at the source. Aside from allowing another box to be ticked in reviews and comparisons, I'm hard pressed to see how this benefits those who enjoy quality audio.
 
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