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I always turn that stuff off. Some people like the effect, though. Since these OLEDs have infinite contrast, I don't see the point of trying to enhance that, unless maybe it helped bring out shadow details or something.
+1

On LCD, advanced contrast features was a must.

On OLED, it's useless. You can't have better then perfect contrast.
 

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I just upgraded from my faithful Panny plasma to the B6 65 and was hoping to get some advice on the best way to connect all my devices. I have the following:
TV: B6
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR646 with 5.1 speakers.
Devices: XBox One S, PS4, Chromecast Ultra, Apple TV,
Remote: Harmony Ultimate One

The connections are as follows:
The Onkyo HDMI out plugs into HDMI 2 on the TV.
The Chromecast is plugged into HDMI 1 on the TV.
The XBox, PS4 and Apple TV are plugged into the HDMI inputs in the Onkyo.

I watch UHD Blu Rays on the XBox, play games on the XBox and PS4, and stream video through using TV's apps for Netflix, VUDU, etc and Chromecast for HDR Youtube. (and on rare occasions the Apple TV.)

I tried plugging in the Chromecast into a the Onkyo (trying several of the HDCP ports) but the video kept flickering on and off as if was losing sync repeatedly. When I plugged the Chromecast directly into the TV, it works fine. Also, I have to enable ARC to get audio from the TV's apps and Chromecast through my Onkyo. However, with ARC enabled, my remote has become unpredictable. If I want to use the XBox, for example, the Harmony is set to turn on the TV (on HDMI 2), then turn on the Onkyo and switch to the correct input, then turn on the XBox. However, sometimes the Onkyo will randomly switch to the input that the Apple TV is using.

My questions:
1. Is it better to connect the XBox to the Onkyo or directly to the TV? I'm still confused on how Game Mode works and am worried if I have to change the icon the TV's input to Console, possibly ruining the PQ for movies or video that I might stream through the XBox.
2. Is there anyway to use ARC just to pass audio to the receiver without sending commands to power on/off devices, change sources, etc?

Thanks!
 

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THANKS!! Was just about to post a question whether Color Gamut 'Normal' or 'Extended'. :D

Now the second part of my original question is Dynamic Contrast Low High or OFF? I am specifically referring to UHD 4K blu-rays. After watching the beginning of SULLY 4K UHD blu-ray, I toggled it Low-High and finally OFF. To me, DC OFF seemed the best since the blacks were slightly elevated and with DC ON it made them murky almost grey. Not good to my eyes.

What do you guys set DC to: On-OFF?
Did you pick up on when you would change the setting to "wide"?
 

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Anyone having audio and video sync issues with internal apps like Netflix and YouTube? Doesn't matter if I use optical out to Avr or internal speakers.
 

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Anyone having audio and video sync issues with internal apps like Netflix and YouTube? Doesn't matter if I use optical out to Avr or internal speakers.
Yes, at least with optical (didn't test internal speakers) lip sync seems to be just slightly off. I used the build in sync settings and 1-2 taps seems to have fixed the delay.
 

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Anyone having audio and video sync issues with internal apps like Netflix and YouTube? Doesn't matter if I use optical out to Avr or internal speakers.
Definitely with YouTube...and no amount of adjusting the AV sync in the TV menu helps.
Netflix does not have audio sync issues on my setup with the B6, which outputs to an LG soundbar via BT.
 

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Just curious how eliminating a receiver overall is helpful though? Then I'm left without surround sound which is terrible.

I get eliminating the receiver in this case to narrow down the issues but permanently having all my devices hooked directly to the tv just doesn't make sense as then I'm using horrible tv speakers and no surround sound.

Unless I missed your point?
You've bought an HDR capable TV so you'll have to do some upgrading to take full advantage of the LG. HDR gaming has a ways to go, and I'm not sure that AVRs are leading the rush to HDR.

To do the available HDR now you have two choices that I can think of. Upgrade your AVR, or get a HDR disk player with two HDMI outputs - one for HDR video directly to your TV, and the other for audio directly to your AVR. You should also think about getting certified for HDR HDMI cables for the your HDR signal path.

You also can send your LG nothing more than 1080p signals until you're ready to go all the way into HDR. This is a major transition point that's going on right now. In a year or two things should settle down.

Anyone for 8K? :rolleyes:
 

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Yes, at least with optical (didn't test internal speakers) lip sync seems to be just slightly off. I used the build in sync settings and 1-2 taps seems to have fixed the delay.
the internal sync settings apply to optical out? i figured those didn't matter when outputting sound to external receiver.

did you have to adjust + or - on timing?
 

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THANKS!! Was just about to post a question whether Color Gamut 'Normal' or 'Extended'. :D

Now the second part of my original question is Dynamic Contrast Low High or OFF? I am specifically referring to UHD 4K blu-rays. After watching the beginning of SULLY 4K UHD blu-ray, I toggled it Low-High and finally OFF. To me, DC OFF seemed the best since the blacks were slightly elevated and with DC ON it made them murky almost grey. Not good to my eyes.

What do you guys set DC to: On-OFF?
I'm glad that everyone needed to see the explanation on YouTube when some of us here explained this months ago. :eek:

I have to admit that I didn't realize that putting the set to Wide forces P3 but you can see this very clearly when you put a meter on the set and do a CMS sweep scan.
 

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I just upgraded from my faithful Panny plasma to the B6 65 and was hoping to get some advice on the best way to connect all my devices. I have the following:
TV: B6
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR646 with 5.1 speakers.
Devices: XBox One S, PS4, Chromecast Ultra, Apple TV,
Remote: Harmony Ultimate One

The connections are as follows:
The Onkyo HDMI out plugs into HDMI 2 on the TV.
The Chromecast is plugged into HDMI 1 on the TV.
The XBox, PS4 and Apple TV are plugged into the HDMI inputs in the Onkyo.

I watch UHD Blu Rays on the XBox, play games on the XBox and PS4, and stream video through using TV's apps for Netflix, VUDU, etc and Chromecast for HDR Youtube. (and on rare occasions the Apple TV.)

I tried plugging in the Chromecast into a the Onkyo (trying several of the HDCP ports) but the video kept flickering on and off as if was losing sync repeatedly. When I plugged the Chromecast directly into the TV, it works fine. Also, I have to enable ARC to get audio from the TV's apps and Chromecast through my Onkyo. However, with ARC enabled, my remote has become unpredictable. If I want to use the XBox, for example, the Harmony is set to turn on the TV (on HDMI 2), then turn on the Onkyo and switch to the correct input, then turn on the XBox. However, sometimes the Onkyo will randomly switch to the input that the Apple TV is using.

My questions:
1. Is it better to connect the XBox to the Onkyo or directly to the TV? I'm still confused on how Game Mode works and am worried if I have to change the icon the TV's input to Console, possibly ruining the PQ for movies or video that I might stream through the XBox.
2. Is there anyway to use ARC just to pass audio to the receiver without sending commands to power on/off devices, change sources, etc?

Thanks!
Use optical out of the TV- same sound quality, ARC does not output beyond standard DD. On a side note, please compare the picture quality of Netflix between your Chromecast Ultra and the internal LG streamer if you would? I find my Philips UHD player has a little better PQ over the internal streamer but it might be placebo.
 

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+1

On LCD, advanced contrast features was a must.

On OLED, it's useless. You can't have better then perfect contrast.
There's some merit in what you say but to my eyes The Revenant just looks too dull overall with dynamic contrast off on hdr standard mode, switching it on just seems to make the light level of the film look more like you would expect, it's just too dull without it IMO

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

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There's some merit in what you say but to my eyes The Revenant just looks too dull overall with dynamic contrast off on hdr standard mode, switching it on just seems to make the light level of the film look more like you would expect, it's just too dull without it IMO

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Try HDR bright or even vivid and adjust from there- I don't use HDR standard for anything (but my eyes are 49 years old)
 

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No Dolby Vision settings in "Picture Options".

Thanks for all the info! Although I have the LG 65" B6, I assume that all the calibrations in the settings are the same. I am unable to get Dolby Vision in "Picture Options". I have tried to understand how this could be? It shows it's availability in this video, as well as LG's website for this model. I have Verizon 50/50 plan, and I have tested the bandwidth for accuracy. I have a Wi-Fi connection with a router that is less than 10 feet away. I get all the other picture options, and configurable settings, but no Dolby Vision. I have tried to watch the second season of Bosch on Amazon Prime, that is suppose to be filmed in Dolby Vision, but to no avail! It automatically switches Picture Mode to HDR10. Can it be my HDMI cable or do I have to use an Ethernet cable possibly? Anyone that can give me a better answer than some guy on the phone from India that represents Amazon's tech department, I would certainly appreciate! lol Thanks in advance! Mark
 

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I have tried to watch the second season of Bosch on Amazon Prime, that is suppose to be filmed in Dolby Vision, but to no avail! It automatically switches Picture Mode to HDR10. Can it be my HDMI cable or do I have to use an Ethernet cable possibly? Anyone that can give me a better answer than some guy on the phone from India that represents Amazon's tech department, I would certainly appreciate! lol Thanks in advance! Mark
Does the episode description say Dolby Vision (there may be another version)? My mode switches to dolby vision automatically for that show - (wired connection).
 

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Does the episode description say Dolby Vision (there may be another version)? My mode switches to dolby vision automatically for that show - (wired connection).
Mine does too - also hardwired but that shouldnt matter. ?????
 

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Glad to hear I'm not the only one. I didn't come across your post, but then I had to buzz through all 277 pages pretty quickly. I am heartened to hear it wasn't difficult to resolve. I've had good response from LG on our LCD TV.

I'm also a plasma owner (TH-50px77U still going strong since 2007), and even though it's a fairly old set now, I like it far more than the new LCD/LED sets we've purchased over the years. With OLED, I feel like I'm back once again in my comfort zone of TV viewing. 100% agree on the grainy source thing. It's not horrible though, just different.
Well, the problem occurred again today, despite that fact that a board had been swapped out. Not sure what is causing the issue, but it never happens while the TV is in use, only on a 'fresh start' after having the TV off for awhile. Which makes me feel like it is not an issue with the panel itself. I emailed the techs just now with pictures and now waiting for a response.

Provided a picture, this is on a 55" E6.
 

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Well, the problem occurred again today, despite that fact that a board had been swapped out. Not sure what is causing the issue, but it never happens while the TV is in use, only on a 'fresh start' after having the TV off for awhile. Which makes me feel like it is not an issue with the panel itself. I emailed the techs just now with pictures and now waiting for a response.

Provided a picture, this is on a 55" E6.
That stinks. Remember that the lemon laws are on your side on this.
 

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Finally got it I think. So I found the firmware which was a pain to find but got it done and updated via USB.

Once the update was done I hooked everything back up to my receiver and still had the horrible slowdown and stuttering.

Checked the source info for each input and it sure enough was still 2160p or whatever so I hit a button on my receiver remote and finally the on screen menu worked.

Turned off a feature and now the tv displays in 1080p for each input source.

So while watching my Nvidia shield, playing Xbox one etc.

Stuttering appears to all be gone and Gears is playing at a crisp 60 fps again.

So everything with the tv so far seems good now I can finally test picture quality and see if there's any juddering etc. So far looks good though.

That said, why is my receiver not working properly upscaling?

Is it because upscaling is more strain than if the content was just native 4K or is my receiver just not capable of any 4K despite it being 4K ready?

Could it also be my hdmi cable not being fast enough? I guess if this was the case it wouldn't have worked when hooking my Xbox one directly to the tv?

The cable I'm using is a standard hdmi cable about 2 or 3 years old.
I did a quick look at your VSX-1128-K manual to see what HDMI specification it was using, but all it said was it was the current state of the art. Not knowing how old the receiver is I'm going to guess its probably version 1.4. All my Pioneer receivers (2015 models) use the newer hdmi 2.0 spec for the (3) inputs capable of passing the 4K UltraHD to the display, at 60P/4:4:4. Another quirk of Pioneer is you have to enable this feature to be able for it to pass the signal to the TV. No wonder people get so frustrated with this stuff.! One thing you really need for sure are some new certified premium hdmi cables. Monoprice and a couple other places have them at a good price. Don't pay more than necessary. As mentioned in other posts, there are work arounds for some of the problems you've run into. And lastly, lets all thank the major Hollywood studios for this hdmi nightmare!
:)
 
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Well, the problem occurred again today, despite that fact that a board had been swapped out. Not sure what is causing the issue, but it never happens while the TV is in use, only on a 'fresh start' after having the TV off for awhile. Which makes me feel like it is not an issue with the panel itself. I emailed the techs just now with pictures and now waiting for a response.

Provided a picture, this is on a 55" E6.
It will get hammered out, failures happen......It will trip up good and they will know what the issues is, probably a board.
 
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