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Hi peeps

I’m currently working in a production grading suite in central London.

The reference grading monitor is an Eizo ColourEdge CG318. On the wall is a LG 65 C6 with an AJA Lut box.

These monitors are set to 90 nits for SDR. Nothing is going above that level.

What is going at the moment is I’m creating a new 3D LUT for the Eizo, then have to create and match the image on the LG.

HDR I agree with you sonoftumble. You have to luminance levels to suit the viewing environment. We already know that the EOTF (gamma) isn’t right for HDR that’s why HDR10+ is on the way. Dolby Vision on these 2017 sets out of the box is based on an assumption that the light output of these sets is consistent. They are not, they vary from panel to panel. That’s why you have the ability with the right kit to upload a Dolby Vision config file to your particular Oled to set Dolby Vision up correctly. Trying to share someone else’s settings simply won’t work as Oled light of 50 may be correct on one set, it may be 70 on another or 40 on another.

If you are not either doing your own or a having a professional calibration done, set the Oled light to suit your eyes and environment.

Contrast is another matter. Some sets clip at 100, some don’t. If they clip then contrast must come down, usually 90 sorts it but on a set not clipping, then bringing contrast down kills dark detail. If it’s clipping then the greyscale controls don’t work and displace.

LG have done a great job on the 2017 sets. They can be set up brilliantly.

This 2016 B6 in front of me now looks stunning with a proper 3D LUT.

We are at the infancy stage with HDR and there’s a long way to go 10 years or so before we get to where we’re going. (Took 20 years to get rec 709 right).

Set the luminance of your tv to suit you and your environment. Saying that, watching in a bright room forget seeing shadow detail, you simply can’t on any set, you eye simply does not work with extreme bright and dark, it takes time to align.

You should not be watching a bright contrasty blown out image. That’s not what HDR is about. With the right setup HDR looks awesome on these 2017 LG’s
Thank you for your post and contribution. I've been trying to bring back visual sanity to the small screen - especially when it comes to watching HDR content. Hopefully your post will also help to achieve that goal. :)
 

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How is the performance on the built-in Youtube application? Any good? I know on the x930e I would get really low connection speed compare to ChromeCast Ultra.

I'm considering returning the ChromeCast.
I haven’t had any issues.
Works great for me as does Netflix
Seems like a YMMV situation. I get great speeds from the built in Amazon and Netflix apps. I get a wheel of spinning waiting-ness from YouTube a lot of the time, so I use an external device for YouTube.
 

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Samsung QLED is no competitor of OLED. If there is any competitor of the OLED it would be the XBR-65Z9D and XBR-75Z9D......That's it, those two only....
I've got a Z9D in my lab centered between a C7 on one side, and an A1E on the other. There is a constant ( sometimes loud ) debate among the techs as to which has the better picture, and there are certain advantages PQ-wise with the Z9D over OLED's. They are all fantastic examples of the best of the best. The only disadvantage to the Z9D IMO is the price.

The Samsung QLED's are edge-lit overpriced jokes. Yes, they can get bright - as long as the dispersion lens doesn't shift during transport. Our Q9 sits in corner of the lab. Can't get anyone to take it home. At least they are going back to FALD for 2018. We'll see if they can beat a Vizio - although I doubt it. :)
 

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I only adjust the OLED light for SDR content (which I have set at 35 for my medium to dark environment). For HDR content I leave the OLED light at default (HDR 10 = 100 / Dolby Vision= 50).

These OLED displays generally don't need a lot of tweaking out of the box in order to look very good, just turn off the PowerSave/Eco mode and select one of the Cinema or Technicolor modes for each content type and do very minor adjusting from there.
I've gotta ask though... am I the only one who runs a low OLED light setting?

I just spent 7 years with a plasma and have had my B7A for a month. I watch in a dark room setting and it's set at 16. The PQ is stunning... running expert (dark room) for SDR and Cinema (user) for HDR. I basically took the rtings.com settings and slightly tweaked them. I haven't experimented with Technicolor yet.

Anyways, it's all good... just seems like every post I see people are running their light at 50-100 and mine is 16. Hope I'm not missing too much. :D

P.S.

Wanting to protect against BI doesn't have a thing to do with my choice... I just don't care for bright displays. :)

The Samsung QLED's are edge-lit overpriced jokes.
I certainly wasn't impressed... but I went straight from plasma to OLED... skipping everything in between... (LCD I think?)


:)
 

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I've gotta ask though... am I the only one who runs a low OLED light setting?

I just spent 7 years with a plasma and have had my B7A for a month. I watch in a dark room setting and it's set at 16. The PQ is stunning... running expert (dark room) for SDR and Cinema (user) for HDR. I basically took the rtings.com settings and slightly tweaked them. I haven't experimented with Technicolor yet.

Anyways, it's all good... just seems like every post I see people are running their light at 50-100 and mine is 16. Hope I'm not missing too much. :D

P.S.

Wanting to protect against BI doesn't have a thing to do with my choice... I just don't care for bright displays. :)
I run about 30-35 on most sources (except HDR of course which puts it at 100)
 

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i bought a 65B7 in June but if I was in your shoes I would wait. The 8 series seem to be well priced and a few months after release could see them at really excellent value. If the new processor brings better video in terms of noise handling, motion and possibly better close to black handling then I think it will be worth the wait. I probably wouldn't be saying that if the launch price hadn't been so good.:)
When are the 2018 sets expected to be released? I just bought the LG b7 at Costco but I have 3 months to return if needed. Although it looks like they are gonna cost a lot more than these do right now
 

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When I think about I how I ended up with my particular settings, I found that it was based more on what types of content I watched during the day vs. night time viewing. Most of the time you will find me watching SDR content during the day, and HDR/DV content at night. When the sun goes down, I can get the room pretty much pitch, so that would make more sense that I found myself turning down the OLED LIGHT to 70 for HDR technicolor, and raising it to 70 for DV Cinema (User) - ( 50 still just looks too dim ). Those settings are basically intended for a darker viewing environment.

For SDR, I have the OLED LIGHT set to 49, which not surprisingly works well in a med bright to bright room.

You might ask why the OLED LIGHT is lower for SDR than for HDR/DV even though that's a daytime setting? The simple answer is that SDR/HDR/DV use different scales and the HDR/DV thresholds start at a higher luminance level.

So now I can see the confusion that I may have caused. Keep in mind that my settings are generally middle range, so I think that they look great under a variety of lighting conditions. For me, it's a "set-it-and-done" kind of approach - or a happy medium. :)
No worries...and no confusion caused. Just gotta find my happy medium since my room also ranges from reasonably bright during the day to pretty dark at night-time when we watch movies. Already re-adjusted HDR10 back to 70....need to fix DV back to 50 or so and see if that helps.

It's generally not advised to change brightness or oled light in the HDR modes. Set the oled light back to normal (100 for HDR 10 and 50 for dolby vision) and see how it is then.
Yeah...going to play with it. Thanks


Try it and see. I don't experience any eye strain with that setting -- and I have a dim room though not "mastering suite dim" -- and I turned down the OLED panel to (IIRC) about 40 for SDR content, so I am not a brightness junkie.
Thanks
 

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I run about 30-35 on most sources (except HDR of course which puts it at 100)
Yeah there's some settings in the FAQ thread that I'm gonna look at. I keep reading about higher OLED light settings for HDR content... but like I said I've been pleased running at 16 in my dark room setting (usually complete darkness) for both SDR and HDR. Still, I'm curious and want to see how it looks.
 

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When are the 2018 sets expected to be released? I just bought the LG b7 at Costco but I have 3 months to return if needed. Although it looks like they are gonna cost a lot more than these do right now
The C8's will start shipping in two weeks. The B series is a retail OEM model for Costco and BB - but somewhat similar to the C series and usually better priced.

• 65-inch OLED65C8PUA ($3,500) – week of March 19
• 55-inch OLED55C8PUA ($2,500) – week of March 19
• 65-inch OLED65E8PUA ($4,500 – week of April 2
• 55-inch class OLED55E8PUA ($3,500) – week of April 2
• 77-inch OLED77C8PUA ($9,000) – week of April 12
• 77-inch OLED77W8PUA ($15,000) – week of April 16
• 65-inch OLED65W8PUA ($7,000) – week of July 16
 

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The C8's will start shipping in two weeks. The B series is a retail OEM model for Costco and BB - but somewhat similar to the C series and usually better priced.

• 65-inch OLED65C8PUA ($3,500) – week of March 19
• 55-inch OLED55C8PUA ($2,500) – week of March 19
• 65-inch OLED65E8PUA ($4,500 – week of April 2
• 55-inch class OLED55E8PUA ($3,500) – week of April 2
• 77-inch OLED77C8PUA ($9,000) – week of April 12
• 77-inch OLED77W8PUA ($15,000) – week of April 16
• 65-inch OLED65W8PUA ($7,000) – week of July 16
Ah ok thanks! It's a pretty big price jump from the cost of the b7 now. Worth it? I think I'd rather trade up to the 65 inch b7 instead for the same price but we will see. Do you think the b7 will drop even more when these are released or they will just stop carrying it?

What's the difference between the c7 and b7 now or for 2018? I keep seeing that it's mostly just cosmetic or better sound but a little confusing
 

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The C8's will start shipping in two weeks. The B series is a retail OEM model for Costco and BB - but somewhat similar to the C series and usually better priced.
... and according to what I read, the 2018 B series will not have the same A9 processor as the C series.

Worth returning the B7 I bought a month ago for the B8? I don't think so.
 

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I've gotta ask though... am I the only one who runs a low OLED light setting?

I just spent 7 years with a plasma and have had my B7A for a month. I watch in a dark room setting and it's set at 16. The PQ is stunning... running expert (dark room) for SDR and Cinema (user) for HDR. I basically took the rtings.com settings and slightly tweaked them. I haven't experimented with Technicolor yet.

Anyways, it's all good... just seems like every post I see people are running their light at 50-100 and mine is 16. Hope I'm not missing too much. :D

P.S.

Wanting to protect against BI doesn't have a thing to do with my choice... I just don't care for bright displays. :)

I certainly wasn't impressed... but I went straight from plasma to OLED... skipping everything in between... (LCD I think?):)
The "QLED" logo is very misleading and obviously designed to fool the uneducated into thinking that it's also an "OLED". The reality: just another edge lit LCD panel that almost the entire industry has moved away from.

Just for reference here's the readings I took from my C7 for SDR OLED LIGHT settings, and the ISF luminance standards for various lighting conditions. These are all mid-range for each level. So as you will see it's OK to set the OLED LIGHT pretty low . . . . I also attached a screenshot from the Calman calibration workflow. For me the bottom line is to not make your TV work any harder than it needs to.

Bright Room:
OLED LIGHT @ 49 = TV Foot Lumens of 55 ( Range 50-60 )
Dim Room:
OLED LIGHT @ 36 = TV Foot Lumens of 45 ( Range 40-50 )
Dark Room:
OLED LIGHT @ 25 = TV Foot Lumens of 35 ( Range 30-40 )
 

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Ah ok thanks! It's a pretty big price jump from the cost of the b7 now. Worth it? I think I'd rather trade up to the 65 inch b7 instead for the same price but we will see. Do you think the b7 will drop even more when these are released or they will just stop carrying it?



What's the difference between the c7 and b7 now or for 2018? I keep seeing that it's mostly just cosmetic or better sound but a little confusing


According to LG the B8 will not have the more powerful chip. That will be in the C8 and above models


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I've gotta ask though... am I the only one who runs a low OLED light setting?

I just spent 7 years with a plasma and have had my B7A for a month. I watch in a dark room setting and it's set at 16. The PQ is stunning... running expert (dark room) for SDR and Cinema (user) for HDR. I basically took the rtings.com settings and slightly tweaked them. I haven't experimented with Technicolor yet.

Anyways, it's all good... just seems like every post I see people are running their light at 50-100 and mine is 16. Hope I'm not missing too much. :D

P.S.

Wanting to protect against BI doesn't have a thing to do with my choice... I just don't care for bright displays. :)



I certainly wasn't impressed... but I went straight from plasma to OLED... skipping everything in between... (LCD I think?)


:)
OLED light
afternoon - 38
night - 28
HDR - 85 max., 100 is not watchable
HDR video games - 50
 

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Just for reference here's the readings I took from my C7 for SDR OLED LIGHT settings, and the ISF luminance standards for various lighting conditions. These are all mid-range for each level. So as you will see it's OK to set the OLED LIGHT pretty low . . . . I also attached a screenshot from the Calman calibration workflow. For me the bottom line is to not make your TV work any harder than it needs to.

Bright Room:
OLED LIGHT @ 49 = TV Foot Lumens of 55 ( Range 50-60 )
Dim Room:
OLED LIGHT @ 36 = TV Foot Lumens of 45 ( Range 40-50 )
Dark Room:
OLED LIGHT @ 25 = TV Foot Lumens of 35 ( Range 30-40 )
But again, these are *only* for SDR content right? HDR/DV do not follow this scale and are considered different (and there are now ISF luminance standards for HDR/DV content based on the estimated brightness of the room)...correct?
 

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The "QLED" logo is very misleading and obviously designed to fool the uneducated into thinking that it's also an "OLED". The reality: just another edge lit LCD panel that almost the entire industry has moved away from.

Just for reference here's the readings I took from my C7 for SDR OLED LIGHT settings

For me the bottom line is to not make your TV work any harder than it needs to.
Yeah Samsung might fool my tech brain dead Mom... but not me. As I said upthread she's looking for a TV and the first thing I told her was the differences between QLED and OLED.

Thanks for the info on the settings. I agree too... don't care to push the TV if I don't have to... and I've been happy with the light at 16 on both SDR and HDR content for a month now. If it ain't broke don't fix it probably applies here, but I'm still gonna have a look at your settings in the FAQ thread because I'm curious.

:D
 

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Except when it's advised to change it. :) Many of us have found that with HDR OLED light at 100, bright scenes are retina burners. Dolby Vision is fine with at OLED light at 50, but some find it "pops" more with a slightly higher setting. YMMV.


Yeah I use 70 for both hdr10 and Dolby vision. It’s bright enough to be near blinding when a bright highlight is against a dark background but slightly toned down from 100. I could use 100 and be fine but it seems to me that 70 is a happy medium.
 
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