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Would a couple of folks be kind enough to look at a specific scene (1080p stream) on the native Netflix app: It's at the 40 min, 50 sec mark of episode 4 (caves) in season 1 of Planet Earth: The Complete Collection.

Most of the images look beautiful, but I've never seen so much "shimmering" graininess in a dark image as this specific scene. See pic - and my camera is definitely NOT exaggerating what I see on my set. Also, I do not believe my settings are particularly unusual: Cinema Pro, Brightness 14, Contrast 98, Auto local dimming High, etc.

I'd love some feedback about that specific scene from others. Thanks!
I just watched it. It looks extremely grainy definitely not the TV.
Mine looks okay - no graininess. I think I have default settings as I don’t use the internal apps much. Cinema Pro, 25 Brightness, 90 contrast, -2 Gamma, LD low, Motion Flow Clear and Cinemotion High.

I think 98 contrast is too high
Thanks, Billy and Furyus - appreciate the feedback. Furyus, that's very interesting to me that you see no graininess in the scene moments later when the exporers are walking around in the semi-dark cave. I tried the settings you mentioned and i still see plenty of grain in that scene.
 

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Okay I got a bit closer and watched through my Apple TV and can see the graininess in the water. That’s a low light situation so it’s the source.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Mounting, Placement of Power Brick directly against Screen? Bad Idea?

I've mounted my x900e, with a slim mount, so that it's as close to the wall as possible. My dilema is where to store the power brick.
My options are, add a recessed basin behind the tv, and set the power brick in there, or just sneak it in behind the TV, in the upper left section, as there is JUST enough space for it to fit between the wall, and the TV.

After a test of having the TV on for an hour and a half, the brick is warm. I wouldn't say "hot" but it's enough to worry me into asking this thread if it will do any damage to my TV having a "heat source" RIGHT behind/touching the back of the TV....

Thanks all!!!

(MORE INFO)
The power brick is 1 1/2 inches thick, the space I have it 1 3/4 between wall and back of TV screen...
 

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I've mounted my x900e, with a slim mount, so that it's as close to the wall as possible. My dilema is where to store the power brick.
My options are, add a recessed basin behind the tv, and set the power brick in there, or just sneak it in behind the TV, in the upper left section, as there is JUST enough space for it to fit between the wall, and the TV.

After a test of having the TV on for an hour and a half, the brick is warm. I wouldn't say "hot" but it's enough to worry me into asking this thread if it will do any damage to my TV having a "heat source" RIGHT behind/touching the back of the TV....

Thanks all!!!

(MORE INFO)
The power brick is 1 1/2 inches thick, the space I have it 1 3/4 between wall and back of TV screen...
What size is your 900E? I have a 65" and a 1.25" slim mount. My power brick is mounted above the mounting bracket in the center of the TV, attached to the sloping back with Velcro. It's been that way for almost a year. Keep in mind this brick is basically inside the 75" so the heat is not an issue.

Sony instructs mounting the brick to the lower left corner of the TV, with a mounting kit that straps it there, which includes pads to keep it from damaging your wall. So, you have nothing to worry about.
 

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75900E on the way

My old 850C panel developed a 6 inch dark line that was visible when there were medium or dark gray colors on the screen. Plus a vertical line pattern has been something that I swear has gotten more defined over the last year also (see pic). So I have lived with it for a year. Hasn't gotten worse in a long while but I figured as I had an extended warranty I would make the call. TV place said the panel would need replacement which meant it was unfixable.

Anyway I was offered a new 850E, but reviews seem to say the 900E was a better TV. The place that sold me the TV called and said they would upgrade me for $200. No brainer. I bought another extended warranty because duh.

I believe this was a worthwhile upgrade. From what I read in this thread it seems people are generally happy with this set. Lets hope this set holds out longer than 2 years. The extended warranty was VERY fairly priced and replacement was a breeze. TV should arrive in a week or so at my local store for pickup.

ps. I get to keep the old TV so I might as well run it until it dies. At least the wife can watch a few shows in 4k
 

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What size is your 900E? I have a 65" and a 1.25" slim mount. My power brick is mounted above the mounting bracket in the center of the TV, attached to the sloping back with Velcro. It's been that way for almost a year. Keep in mind this brick is basically inside the 75" so the heat is not an issue.

Sony instructs mounting the brick to the lower left corner of the TV, with a mounting kit that straps it there, which includes pads to keep it from damaging your wall. So, you have nothing to worry about.

I have the 55" ... The bottom of the TV is bulkier than the top, so I don't have as much room to fit the brick down there. The mount to TV gap is 3/4" from the wall, so if I did put it against the lower left, it would lean on it, and tip the bottom of the TV up away from the wall, sort of askew. I could add mounting spacers and pull the TV form the wall more, but the idea of the mount was to get it as close to the wall as possible :/

Since you have yours mounted to the top center of your TV, at the sloping section, it leads me to think that me putting it in the UPPER left, would be OK. With all this added info, do you still think I'm good?

Thanks!
 

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Can this TV automatically detect HDR content from MPC-HC (Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti graphics card > Sony TV HDMI Input #3 )? If yes, how? If not, how do I manually activate HDR mode on the TV? I have already selected the "Enhanced HDMI mode" on the TV.
 

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Guys I?ve hit a wall with this TV and sports motion...

Picture looks great but when I start watching sports (hockey, basketball) the picture starts to pixelate like CRAZY... I have tried playing with all the motion settings and simply can not get it to a point that looks even ?ok? compared to the 10 year old Samsung LCD that it is replacing. I?m a big sports guy so this is an issue any suggestions?

Source is Xfinity X1 (I know...)

***I have also tried changing the set top box from 1080i to 720p and even 1080p with no real change.
Have you upgraded your xfinity box to their new 4K box? It upscaled pretty nicely
 

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Well it's happened again. This is the third time in as many weeks.

This morning I unplugged the power from the power brick to the set, rather than the power brick from the wall. Not only did this work, but it also turned right on, as opposed to the Android reboot sequence which is what I'm usually greeted with.

So this seems to confirm that it's not the power brick. I'm curious why it did not reboot this time.

I suspect this is going to continue, since this marks the 4th time in two months (and it was out of use for three weeks over the holidays). I know if I call Sony they will have me reset to Factory settings, so I'm not eager to do that. I may wait and see if it gets better or worse over the next month, and whether we receive another update which might solve the problem. But the 1-year warranty is up in a couple of months, so I can't wait too much longer.

If it happens again, I'll unplug the brick from the set again, and see if it solves the problem without a reboot again.
I've been able to resolve this issues. After systematically trouble shooting I figured out that it's been happening mostly when I power off while I'm in a streaming app such as Netflix and/or Amazon. While we 'power off' the TV, much like a computer, the TV does not shut down but goes into a sleep mode. Using a sniffer app on my network it seems that the TV keeps the IP address of when I shut it down. However while my all my devices use DHCP another device would see, from the router, that this IP addy was available and the router would give that device the next IP addy that is open, i.e., the one the TV was using. Then when trying to turn on the TV a conflict would create. Remember, the TV is not turned on but in sleep mode. Somehow the conflict would not allow the TV to completely power on.

I've assigned the TV a static IP address and have not had the problem sense.
This is the case no matter if the TV is hard wired or wireless.

Curious, what router are you using?
 

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I’ve got the 65” version of the X900E. I installed the latest update via usb (it wasn’t showing up for me via the tv yet) and had my first episode of red flashing lights when switching over to the PS4 yesterday. I think it flashed red 8 times (2 sets of 4) then rebooted. Worked ok after that.

Beyond that, this latest update has really got me wondering if I can find a happy balance on motion processing. For regular tv, I’m watching Dish Network via a Hopper 3 oh HDMI port 1 since I’m never gonna need HDR from it. I actually like the SOE, but I have issues with it on some channels and it isn’t artifacting. It’s almost like judder, but more like a constant skipping...almost like a strobe light effect. While one channel will be smooth as silk, something else might get that jittery skipping effect. Turning off all motion processing just isn’t an option. I just came from a 60 inch plasma, and the lack of smoothness when it’s all turned off bothers my eyes. I swear it really seems like the processor in the tv just can’t keep up with the motion processing. For now, the best balance I can find is Motionflow on custom, smoothness at 2, clearness at min, and Cinemotion on high.

My set is a November build, has the light band/bleed edges on some scenes on the left, right, and top. It was purchased from a third party through Amazon and I have through Feb. 3rd to return it. I’m tempted, but I have no idea what I’d get in it’s place. It would have to be something from Amazon, because I paid for half of the TV with a Amazon e-gift card.
I finally found settings for 4k movies that are flawless, now i have it all, 4k vid games,good tv. BUT THAT RED LIGHT IS SERIOUS IS THAT WHY YOU THINKING RETURN? cause thats got me scared.
 

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Have you upgraded your xfinity box to their new 4K box? It upscaled pretty nicely
I have not, TV just went up on Friday night.

Scary thing for me is that the $250 “special” Sonyo that is hanging in my bedroom looks better with sports. So of the three TV’s in my house the newest, most expensive one, looks the worst with sports.
 

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I've been looking at this tv for a bit now and have a question. I bought the Samsung MU8000 65" and the HDR content is very dim. I have messed with the settings and the only way to it to get somewhat of a decent picture is to set the contrast to dynamic. I'm using a ATV 4K set to match content 4K SDR 60Hz.

Does anyone have any info or opinion if this set would be any better?
 

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I've been looking at this tv for a bit now and have a question. I bought the Samsung MU8000 65" and the HDR content is very dim. I have messed with the settings and the only way to it to get somewhat of a decent picture is to set the contrast to dynamic. I'm using a ATV 4K set to match content 4K SDR 60Hz.

Does anyone have any info or opinion if this set would be any better?
I just got blown away on 4k hdr video game and 4k hdr xmen...its bright and gorgeous. But like every tv i get from best buy its crap, shutting down and red blinking error codes. 2nd bad tv in a month.
 

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Can someone help with a streaming HDR question.

When I stream Stranger things via Netflix on a Roku Ultra I can’t get the HDR to work.

I push display and it shows the resolution, Dolby Digital, and HDMI mode full but no reference to HDR. Also, the picture looks the same between the hdr modes off and hdr10.

I’m on HDMI 2, I have them set to enhanced, and the the Roku auto detects 4K 60fps hdr available in the setup.

Ideas.
 

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I have the 55" ... The bottom of the TV is bulkier than the top, so I don't have as much room to fit the brick down there. The mount to TV gap is 3/4" from the wall, so if I did put it against the lower left, it would lean on it, and tip the bottom of the TV up away from the wall, sort of askew. I could add mounting spacers and pull the TV form the wall more, but the idea of the mount was to get it as close to the wall as possible :/

Since you have yours mounted to the top center of your TV, at the sloping section, it leads me to think that me putting it in the UPPER left, would be OK. With all this added info, do you still think I'm good?

Thanks!
You should be good. Mine has been on the top center with plenty of room for a year. 55" or 65" that part of the TV is going to be the same in terms of design and space.

I've been able to resolve this issues. After systematically trouble shooting I figured out that it's been happening mostly when I power off while I'm in a streaming app such as Netflix and/or Amazon. While we 'power off' the TV, much like a computer, the TV does not shut down but goes into a sleep mode. Using a sniffer app on my network it seems that the TV keeps the IP address of when I shut it down. However while my all my devices use DHCP another device would see, from the router, that this IP addy was available and the router would give that device the next IP addy that is open, i.e., the one the TV was using. Then when trying to turn on the TV a conflict would create. Remember, the TV is not turned on but in sleep mode. Somehow the conflict would not allow the TV to completely power on.

I've assigned the TV a static IP address and have not had the problem sense.
This is the case no matter if the TV is hard wired or wireless.

Curious, what router are you using?
Interesting discovery. As it turns out, I might have been streaming something on an app that is only available on Android, since I usually use my Apple TV. I haven't tried using that built-in app for a while and have had no problems. If keep an eye on it. Thanks! Using an ATT router.

I just got blown away on 4k hdr video game and 4k hdr xmen...its bright and gorgeous. But like every tv i get from best buy its crap, shutting down and red blinking error codes. 2nd bad tv in a month.
Have you tried a factory reset? That seemed to fix the blinking red light for me, when I first had the TV.

Can someone help with a streaming HDR question.

When I stream Stranger things via Netflix on a Roku Ultra I can’t get the HDR to work.

I push display and it shows the resolution, Dolby Digital, and HDMI mode full but no reference to HDR. Also, the picture looks the same between the hdr modes off and hdr10.

I’m on HDMI 2, I have them set to enhanced, and the the Roku auto detects 4K 60fps hdr available in the setup.

Ideas.
The Display button on the remote doesn't show HDR status. You have to use the Action button and open Picture Adjustment Settings. It will be in the top right of the menu.
 

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Watched Blade Runner 2049 via Vudu in HDR10/Atmos using the Shield, and the image on my 55x900e was incredible. The movie alone is enough for me to go ahead and puchase the UHD. Lots of eye candy and the cinematography was so refreshing!!
 
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The Display button on the remote doesn't show HDR status. You have to use the Action button and open Picture Adjustment Settings. It will be in the top right of the menu.
Ok thanks, I got it. It still wasn't working at first, I had to change to picture mode from custom to anything else and then whichever mode I choose for the HDR to kick in and show up.
 

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Ok thanks, I got it. It still wasn't working at first, I had to change to picture mode from custom to anything else and then whichever mode I choose for the HDR to kick in and show up.

Considering I have my display set to "Custom", setting HDR to "Auto" allows for HDR Material to play, just as long as the metadata is present.
 
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