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Gentlemen:
I have a 5-6 year old SONY 4K XBR-65x900A that has served me well until last month, when it started losing all sound after begin on about 15-20 minutes. I am using the original speakers which came in the TV. All the software updates are current. Resetting to factory settings has not helped. The only resolution is to unplug the TV for a few minutes, and restart it.
One online TV technician told me I probably needed to replace the main-board due to bad software or bad hardware for the sound amp. Does anyone have another suggested solution? Thanks~!
 

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Gentlemen:
I have a 5-6 year old SONY 4K XBR-65x900A that has served me well until last month, when it started losing all sound after begin on about 15-20 minutes. I am using the original speakers which came in the TV. All the software updates are current. Resetting to factory settings has not helped. The only resolution is to unplug the TV for a few minutes, and restart it.
One online TV technician told me I probably needed to replace the main-board due to bad software or bad hardware for the sound amp. Does anyone have another suggested solution? Thanks~!
A small sound bar that accepts optical input? That would likely resolve the issue
 

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I bought my 65"X900E through Costco Canada as well and in the process of doing an exchange. If the next one I receive has the same light bleed on the left side and top, I'm returning and moving on. Sony can tell me until they're blue in the face, that it's within normal specifications, well there's no way that a 1" strip of light bleed is normal! I watched the exact same content on my 65" KS8000 and it had ZERO light bleed on the entire panel and it's an edge lit. I should also mention that I went to BB and purchased the same tv and guess what? Again a 1" strip of light bleed on the left side and top. Both tv's manufactured in Mexico Nov 2017. I guess Sony is just hoping, that the general public will have no idea and think it's normal to have that strip of light on their $2000 tv?
It is quite odd. I've never experienced a phenomenon like this in any other TV. It's NOT actually light bleed, but a weird difference in brightness.

Because you can't see it on very very dark scenes. If the edge of the TV is black or extremely close to it, you don't see it at all.

Only on on *dim* scenes. And it is by far most prevalent on scenes that features grays or dark to mid-dark blues or greens.

It truly does depend on the type of scene being displayed.
Just want to know what did you guys end up doing? Did you exchange the TV for another one or kept the same TV? I got a second set from Costco Canada, but it's having the same issue. I am at crossroads now as to what I should do now. I really like the picture quality...it has best picture quality that I've seen, second only to OLED, but this issue with edge brightness / halo is bothering me and just wanted to check what people are doing about it. Any insight will be much appreciated.
 

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Oh. I thought HDR required the high bandwidth. So hi bandwidth is just for signals above 30hz? Don’t matter if the video signal is 4K?
I am no expert but yes (I think). When I got my TV a few months ago I couldn't figure it out either but after doing some more digging and experimenting on my own to make sure you can hook a 4k player to any of the 4 inputs and get HDR. Enhanced will not do anything for you unless it is at 60hz or one of the other criteria. I have my samsung 4k player in port 1 right now and the HDR symbol comes up on a 4k movie and I can tell no difference from when I had it on port 2 with enhanced on.
On a side note one cool thing I like about this tv is that it recognized my samsung player and it is listed both under the hdmi ports as well as separately. When I select it by name (which the TV did on its own) it will turn the player on and I can control it with my 900e remote. My old samsung would only do other samsung products and not very well at that.
 

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I am no expert but yes (I think). When I got my TV a few months ago I couldn't figure it out either but after doing some more digging and experimenting on my own to make sure you can hook a 4k player to any of the 4 inputs and get HDR. Enhanced will not do anything for you unless it is at 60hz or one of the other criteria. I have my samsung 4k player in port 1 right now and the HDR symbol comes up on a 4k movie and I can tell no difference from when I had it on port 2 with enhanced on.
On a side note one cool thing I like about this tv is that it recognized my samsung player and it is listed both under the hdmi ports as well as separately. When I select it by name (which the TV did on its own) it will turn the player on and I can control it with my 900e remote. My old samsung would only do other samsung products and not very well at that.
That's essentially correct. This post tries to delineate it a bit using Sony's own specs:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/2773233-2017-sony-xbr-900e-owners-thread-no-price-talk-430.html#post55732512

Chroma sub-sampling is the other key component here, not just framerate. So it's possible to have a higher bit depth at a lower framerate which may not be supported on ports 1 & 4 due to bandwidth. It just all depends on your device.

Your 4K BD player may be capable of higher chroma bit depth, which may make a perceptible difference to you, in which case, you'd want to use port 2 & 3 for full bandwidth media like a BD player, even if only watching 24p movies. A streaming box wouldn't really make much difference.

I do love that the 900E automatically recognizes my Apple TV 4K, and automatically switches to it when using its remote, or streaming something to it, and that it lets me use my Sony remote to control it as well. However, every so often, my ATV 4K drops off and I have to power cycle it to synch up again. It's just the synchronized features, not the HDMI port -- it's still there and I can selected it, it just won't auto launch, or allow me to control it via the Sony remote. Does that ever happen with your Samsung?
 

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Thank you for your thoughtful post. I was on the verge of buying a 75" 900e and sitting 10-11 feet away. Over 50% of the use will be watching sports broadcast 1080i/720p on Fios.

It sounds like the best thing to do is to get a 65" to avoid seeing amplified imperfections of cable TV. Have other "average" TV watchers had similar experiences watching cable sports on 900e? Thanks
I haven't checked on this thread in awhile but came across your reply to my post this morning. I also saw the later post where you didn't get the 65" and instead purchased the 75" and were disappointed. Sorry about that. I would have steered you to the 65" if I were around as we are both Fios users who spend 50% of our TV time watching Live Sports.

Let me start by saying that the issue with 4K panels doing a mediocre job with 1080i/720p broadcast cable, particularly Live Sports, has nothing to do with Sony or this particular 900E TV. The disappointment (and fact of life) is that if you want to upgrade your 5-10 year old 1080p HDTV you have to get a 4K panel which unfortunately amplifies the imperfections inherent in cable signals. One would think that the manufacturers would have used the last decade to figure out a way to improve 1080i/720p broadcast cable picture performance on a 4K panel, but they haven't.

What I did was go from a 2009 55" Sony 1080p HDTV to the 2017 65" 900E 4K TV and from the same viewing distance of 14 feet and after a six month break-in period here is what I can report:

1080i broadcast Live Sports (NBC, CBS, MSG, YES) looks as good as it did on my old 1080p native panel from my couch 14 feet away. Anything under 10 feet, I can see imperfections, blocking, etc.

720p broadcast Live Sports (FOX, ESPN) looks far worse than it did on my old 1080p native panel even at 14 feet. Half the NFL games, the World Series, any time the camera pans around the picture is a mess.

So my advice to you, if you haven't done it already, is to return your 75" and get the 65". It will look much better. It won't be perfect, it never will, but it will make you happier. There are too many "get the bigger panel!" people in this thread who don't watch Live Sports on cable regularly or are willing to compromise the viewing experience because they value the 4K movies and YouTube videos more than average people do.
 

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RE: "So my advice to you, if you haven't done it already, is to return your 75" and get the 65". It will look much better. There are too many "get the bigger panel!" people in this thread who don't watch Live Sports on cable regularly or are willing to compromise the viewing experience because they value the 4K movies and YouTube videos more than average people do."

Not my experience. I get an exceptional picture for football, basketball, hockey, baseball and golf with my 75" Sony 900E. All live sports. The golf from Mexico City has been incredible - - you can really see the variations in the greens. Hockey is lights out - - no banding and a real treat to watch on a bigger panel. 65% of my TV viewing is live sports. 15% cable news and other network shows with 20% streaming (Netflix, primarily).

Results can vary for a number of reasons - - provider, settings and signal being transmitted being the main determinants. In my case, I have Comcast cable set at 720p. I tried 1080i & 1080p as upscaled by the Comcast Xfinity (non 4K) STB and 720p works the best for me. I had my cable line retrenched from the back of my house to the main cable box outside. They also used conduit and buried the cable under my lawn. Lastly, I have a Commscope AD48 amplifier in my man cave where the main Comcast STB is located. I'm sure that has to do with an older house and the way that the cable has been split. The other two TV's in our house use the smaller Comcast "client" box.

If you have a shi%$y signal or poor settings on your 75" set - - switching to a 65" set isn't going to make much difference, IMHO.
 

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Thank you for your thoughtful post. I was on the verge of buying a 75" 900e and sitting 10-11 feet away. Over 50% of the use will be watching sports broadcast 1080i/720p on Fios.

It sounds like the best thing to do is to get a 65" to avoid seeing amplified imperfections of cable TV. Have other "average" TV watchers had similar experiences watching cable sports on 900e? Thanks
Well, I've had my 75 900E since Friday and I understand the issues with viewing cable programming that is at 720p and/or 1080i/p resolution. I have Suddenlink cable and, yes, ESPN doesn't look so great. NBC and CBS, with their native 1080i broadcast, look decent. FWIW, what I did was to lower the Sharpness setting on that input, so as to lessen the artifacts a bit.

However, having now viewed a bit of 4K content on my 75", I would not counsel you to go with a 65" if you will be viewing much 4K content. The sense of immersion is great! I'll just live with the less than desired image quality on my TV viewing.
 

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RE: "So my advice to you, if you haven't done it already, is to return your 75" and get the 65". It will look much better. There are too many "get the bigger panel!" people in this thread who don't watch Live Sports on cable regularly or are willing to compromise the viewing experience because they value the 4K movies and YouTube videos more than average people do."

Not my experience. I get an exceptional picture for football, basketball, hockey, baseball and golf with my 75" Sony 900E. All live sports. The golf from Mexico City has been incredible - - you can really see the variations in the greens. Hockey is lights out - - no banding and a real treat to watch on a bigger panel. 65% of my TV viewing is live sports. 15% cable news and other network shows with 20% streaming (Netflix, primarily).

Results can vary for a number of reasons - - provider, settings and signal being transmitted being the main determinants. In my case, I have Comcast cable set at 720p. I tried 1080i & 1080p as upscaled by the Comcast Xfinity (non 4K) STB and 720p works the best for me. I had my cable line retrenched from the back of my house to the main cable box outside. They also used conduit and buried the cable under my lawn. Lastly, I have a Commscope AD48 amplifier in my man cave where the main Comcast STB is located. I'm sure that has to do with an older house and the way that the cable has been split. The other two TV's in our house use the smaller Comcast "client" box.

If you have a shi%$y signal or poor settings on your 75" set - - switching to a 65" set isn't going to make much difference, IMHO.
Interesting. I watched some of that yesterday, and I noticed that, as the camera would pan across the green to track a putt, tremendous smearing of the grass as long as the camera was panning. As soon as the camera shot became stationary on the green, yes, then it looked great and I could see the grass leaves. I have my Suddenlink Cable HD DVR set to output 1080i, as that looked the best to me with my prior TV, which was a Samsung HL67A750 DLP projection TV. Perhaps, I'll set the DVR to output 720p, which I hate to do, as it doesn't look as sharp as 1080i.
 

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Interesting. I watched some of that yesterday, and I noticed that, as the camera would pan across the green to track a putt, tremendous smearing of the grass as long as the camera was panning. As soon as the camera shot became stationary on the green, yes, then it looked great and I could see the grass leaves. I have my Suddenlink Cable HD DVR set to output 1080i, as that looked the best to me with my prior TV, which was a Samsung HL67A750 DLP projection TV. Perhaps, I'll set the DVR to output 720p, which I hate to do, as it doesn't look as sharp as 1080i.
At some level, a lot of this is going to be personal taste and what your eyes see. You very well may get a better picture with a 1080i setting with your Suddenlink Cable box. I'm not sure what algorithm they use to "upscale," but my main goal has always been to let the Sony 900E do the upscaling and to prevent the cable or satellite box and/or my AVR from altering the signal in any way.

Remote "panning" shots (hand held) cameras can yield some weird artifacts. And I'm still amazed and the variance in cable transmission from night to night, event to event. A perfect example is our home Altitude Sports station here in Denver. The local hockey games and even "city" shots are spectacular. MSG is always a great feed. Other hockey cities can have so so broadcasts in terms of PQ.

The NBA Nugget basketball game against the Cleveland Cavaliers didn't look as good as the previous nights broadcast from Memphis. So with cable or satellite - - it can be a real crap shoot, signal wise, and how well the Sony 900E can upscale the picture. Grizzle burger will not taste as good as a juicy rib eye steak. It would be nice if we could get some consistency from our cable & satellite signals but that's going to take time - especially for live events. If you feed a Ferrari (our Sony 900E) low octane gas, it's gonna sputter at times.
 

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I’ll be coming from a 60” Vizio E series from 2014. Anyone have any opinions on who substantial of an upgrade it will be for movies amd games?
 

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At some level, a lot of this is going to be personal taste and what your eyes see. You very well may get a better picture with a 1080i setting with your Suddenlink Cable box. I'm not sure what algorithm they use to "upscale," but my main goal has always been to let the Sony 900E do the upscaling and to prevent the cable or satellite box and/or my AVR from altering the signal in any way.

Remote "panning" shots (hand held) cameras can yield some weird artifacts. And I'm still amazed and the variance in cable transmission from night to night, event to event. A perfect example is our home Altitude Sports station here in Denver. The local hockey games and even "city" shots are spectacular. MSG is always a great feed. Other hockey cities can have so so broadcasts in terms of PQ.

The NBA Nugget basketball game against the Cleveland Cavaliers didn't look as good as the previous nights broadcast from Memphis. So with cable or satellite - - it can be a real crap shoot, signal wise, and how well the Sony 900E can upscale the picture. Grizzle burger will not taste as good as a juicy rib eye steak. It would be nice if we could get some consistency from our cable & satellite signals but that's going to take time - especially for live events. If you feed a Ferrari (our Sony 900E) low octane gas, it's gonna sputter at times.
Thanks, so I guess in my DVR menu, there should be a place to tell it to send out whatever the native signal is?

Which brings me to my next question. I've been through the settings in the 900E several times, but I have yet to find anywhere that I can make choices about upscaling incoming signals. How does one tell the 900E what to do regarding upscaling? And I also need to be able to "tell" the 900E to upscale my regular Blu-rays to 4K, and I don't know how to do that. Or should I have the Oppo 203 upscale Blu-ray to 4K? Sorry that I've fallen so far behind the curve here.:eek:
 

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Thanks, so I guess in my DVR menu, there should be a place to tell it to send out whatever the native signal is?

***Maybe. I'm not sure with your STB but when you cycle through the "resolutions" - - if there is a native setting, you can try that. Otherwise, you're stuck with whatever options they list.

Which brings me to my next question. I've been through the settings in the 900E several times, but I have yet to find anywhere that I can make choices about upscaling incoming signals. How does one tell the 900E what to do regarding upscaling?

***The Sony 900E automatically upscales anything less than a 4K signal. No option there.

And I also need to be able to "tell" the 900E to upscale my regular Blu-rays to 4K, and I don't know how to do that. Or should I have the Oppo 203 upscale Blu-ray to 4K? Sorry that I've fallen so far behind the curve here.

***You can have your OPPO 203 set to upscale your regular, Bluray discs or just set it to "no upscaling" and let the Sony 900E upscale. Try it out both ways to see what you like. I have the older OPPO 103 and I let my Sony 900E upscale regular Blurays and it does a great job. Incredible colors and pristine, sharp images.

:eek:
Hope this helps.
 

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I’ll be coming from a 60” Vizio E series from 2014. Anyone have any opinions on who substantial of an upgrade it will be for movies amd games?
Judging by the vizios i've seen at Walmart i'd say it will be a huge difference. The 900e is a movie watching monster this is one bad ass tv. It would probably be comparable to Pee Wee Herman taking on Mike Tyson.
 

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Hey Guys!

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PLEASE DO NOT DISCUSS PRICE ON THIS THREAD -- price comments redacted in case mods remove all related posts.

That said, I'm not sure I follow your concern about DV and Netflix. Netflix supports both HDR-10 and DV. So you will get HDR-10, even if a program states it's DV. If you notice enough of a difference between HDR-10 than DV, then that's going to be your main driver over selection.

Otherwise, most will tell you on this thread that you cannot go wrong with the 900E over any other available TV currently available in this range. If Netflix is your primary concern, then the 900E is likely the best option without stepping up to a higher class of TV.
 

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Originally Posted by mtrot
I've been through the settings in the 900E several times, but I have yet to find anywhere that I can make choices about upscaling incoming signals. How does one tell the 900E what to do regarding upscaling?
***The Sony 900E automatically upscales anything less than a 4K signal. No option there. Hope this helps.
To be clear, all 4K TVs upscale any signal to 4K. If it didn't the original signal would appear like a small window on the 4K panel. In order to fill it, it by definition must be upscaled.

mtrot The choice is whether you set your device to upscale the original signal to 4K, or output the lower res native signal and let the 900E do it, which is what most of us would suggest.
 

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To be clear, all 4K TVs upscale any signal to 4K. If it didn't the original signal would appear like a small window on the 4K panel. In order to fill it, it by definition must be upscaled.

mtrot The choice is whether you set your device to upscale the original signal to 4K, or output the lower res native signal and let the 900E do it, which is what most of us would suggest.
Thanks! I am going to go into my cable box settings and see if I can set it to just output all channels at their native resolution. However, the cable box HDMI output is first going to my Denon receiver, so I am going to have to make sure that the Denon is not doing anything to the signal.
 

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PLEASE DO NOT DISCUSS PRICE ON THIS THREAD -- price comments redacted in case mods remove all related posts.

That said, I'm not sure I follow your concern about DV and Netflix. Netflix supports both HDR-10 and DV. So you will get HDR-10, even if a program states it's DV. If you notice enough of a difference between HDR-10 than DV, then that's going to be your main driver over selection.

Otherwise, most will tell you on this thread that you cannot go wrong with the 900E over any other available TV currently available in this range. If Netflix is your primary concern, then the 900E is likely the best option without stepping up to a higher class of TV.
Sorry about that! Ah ok that was my concern I didn't know Netflix would support HDR10. Wasn't there an update for Dolby vision for this TV? Is it worth buying now or is a newer one right around the corner? I am just new to researching this so not sure if not having Dolby vision will be a big disadvantage. and so the extra 400 for this TV is worth it? I am sure it is.

Edit: Does this TV support HDR from youtube on the app? Or do we need a chromecast ultra or something?
 

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Just want to know what did you guys end up doing? Did you exchange the TV for another one or kept the same TV? I got a second set from Costco Canada, but it's having the same issue. I am at crossroads now as to what I should do now. I really like the picture quality...it has best picture quality that I've seen, second only to OLED, but this issue with edge brightness / halo is bothering me and just wanted to check what people are doing about it. Any insight will be much appreciated.
Hi! Well, I had made a post about it a little bit beyond this one you quoted, but you might have missed it.

Basically, that last unit of several I exchanged, I decided to keep it. And I took the advice of another user to "break" it in. I ran the set pretty much a week straight without turning it off. Just left it running, all night and all day, playing stuff.

As it turns out, the edge haloing all but faded away. Believe it or not, it seems like these sets have a "break in" period like the old plasmas did, although not quite the same thing obviously. But it seems to help the pixels' aging process.

Basically, the problem seems to have dissipated. It can still be VEEEEERY faintly seen in a pitch black room without a bias light, but it's definitely evened out to where it is not noticeable in any type of normal viewing.

I recommend keeping it and doing this "break in" procedure of just running the set like crazy. I feel like even my black levels have improved since I first bought the set.
 
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