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I have just noticed that the black bar between picture and bezal at the bottom of the screen on my 77C8 is quite a bit thicker than the top or side bars when viewing content that fills the screen. I wonder if anyone can confirm if this is normal as I never noticed it on my 65B7.:confused:
 

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If each hdr & Dolby vision are implemented properly, dolby will look better. Most won't notice but side by side Dolby would win.

Dolby does frame by frame implementation, hdr does a general implementation to the whole picture

The newer Hdr10 + does try to do hdr like dolby vision does frame by frame

TV - LG C9, C8 & C6 - AVR - Pioneer SC-LX502, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro & Switch
Thanks for the info. I just have a couple more questions regarding hdr. I use Cinema home for DV and noticed that the colour gamut is locked into "wide". I thought the correct setting was auto as extended or wide just oversaturates the image? Also, for hdr10 I use technicolor expert and see that the default colour temp is warm 1. I know warm 2 is usually thought of to be the way to go so should that be changed for the technicolor expert preset, or left at warm 1? I'm on the new 5.10.03 firmware if that makes a difference. Thanks again.
 

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Thanks for the info. I just have a couple more questions regarding hdr. I use Cinema home for DV and noticed that the colour gamut is locked into "wide". I thought the correct setting was auto as extended or wide just oversaturates the image? Also, for hdr10 I use technicolor expert and see that the default colour temp is warm 1. I know warm 2 is usually thought of to be the way to go so should that be changed for the technicolor expert preset, or left at warm 1? I'm on the new 5.10.03 firmware if that makes a difference. Thanks again.
According to most calibrator videos, hdr & dv don't need to be adjusted unless getting professional calibration.

For basic adjustments out of the box hdr, dv can be left alone


These are the videos I base my stuff off of until I get my sets calibrated





TV - LG C9, C8 & C6 - AVR - Pioneer SC-LX502, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro & Switch
 

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Thanks for the info. I just have a couple more questions regarding hdr. I use Cinema home for DV and noticed that the colour gamut is locked into "wide". I thought the correct setting was auto as extended or wide just oversaturates the image?
For SDR content, yes "auto" is correct.

For all HDR content, whether it's HDR10, HLG, or Dolby Vision - the spec says rec.2020 which is a much wider gamut than is possible with this panel. "Auto" will still switch correctly from rec.709 to rec.2020 and back. You should basically always leave it on Auto if you have any choice in the matter.

In some Picture modes, like Game mode, it's fixed to Native (wide) gamut and only a calibration can fix this for both SDR and HDR.

You say that you see the colour gamut locked into "wide" in the "Cinema Home" Dolby Vision Picture mode. But if that menu display entry is locked out, there is nothing you can do about it. It may just say that, but actually be set to "Auto". Measurements with a meter would reveal the answer. Either way, if you are using "Cinema Home", that's the least of your problems. "Cinema Home" is very inaccurate across the whole EOTF and will not accurately display the content as intended.

The "Cinema" Dolby Vision Picture mode, the most accurate one out of the box, also reports a greyed out "Wide" colour gamut entry.

Also, for hdr10 I use technicolor expert and see that the default colour temp is warm 1. I know warm 2 is usually thought of to be the way to go so should that be changed for the technicolor expert preset, or left at warm 1? I'm on the new 5.10.03 firmware if that makes a difference. Thanks again.
Technicolour Expert Warm1 uses a special custom whitepoint: x=0.3000 y=0.3270 which is different from the normal D65 whitepoint used for all other colour temps in all modes. If you, @CadeFoster, are a professional Hollywood colourist and you want a whitepoint which is a perceptual match with the Xenon DCI Cinema Projector - ie you are mastering content designed to be projected on that system, and not for the home - then you can use Warm1! It has no practical use for the home, other than fun! ;) It's interesting in the sense that it's the first time a consumer TV has had a custom whitepoint, and there was some publicity about it at the time. LG likes the "kudos" it gets from Hollywood using their TVs for colourist work.
 

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Best thing to do is put everything back to default. Use ISF Dark or Bright for SDR, Cinema for HDR and Cinema for DV. Those Rtings settings are old and probably not valid anymore since there have been many firmware updates since the set was initially reviewed.
I agree, and emphasis added :)
 

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Thanks for the info. I just have a couple more questions regarding hdr. I use Cinema home for DV and noticed that the colour gamut is locked into "wide". I thought the correct setting was auto as extended or wide just oversaturates the image?
For SDR content, yes "auto" is correct.

For all HDR content, whether it's HDR10, HLG, or Dolby Vision - the spec says rec.2020 which is a much wider gamut than is possible with this panel. Therefore, the Native (wide) gamut is the biggest it can manage, and is correct.

Also, for hdr10 I use technicolor expert and see that the default colour temp is warm 1. I know warm 2 is usually thought of to be the way to go so should that be changed for the technicolor expert preset, or left at warm 1? I'm on the new 5.10.03 firmware if that makes a difference. Thanks again.
Technicolour Expert Warm1 uses a special custom whitepoint: x=0.3000 y=0.3270 which is different from the normal D65 whitepoint used for all other colour temps in all modes. If you, @CadeFoster, are a professional Hollywood colourist and you want a whitepoint which is a perceptual match with the Xenon DCI Cinema Projector - ie you are mastering content designed to be projected on that system, and not for the home - then you can use Warm1! It has no practical use for the home, other than fun! /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif It's interesting in the sense that it's the first time a consumer TV has had a custom whitepoint, and there was some publicity about it at the time. LG likes the "kudos" it gets from Hollywood using their TVs for colourist work.
When calibrating HDR you most definitely do not turn the color to wide. You use normal, as the tv knows what color space you're using. With movies it's usual dci-p3 in a rec2020 container.

Technicolor 1 is so far off those coordinates it's not even funny. Like any other mode it has to be calibrated to .300, .327 and it looks ok. Warm 2 is closest in that preset to those coordinates. Crazy, I know.... I found the Dolby and LG recommended .308,.313 to be the best, and that's what I calibrated to on my settings I shared a few days ago. It fixes the metameric failure of the TV.
 

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On my Technicolor TV it comes by default very close to 300 coordinates. 327 and it looks good, white in warm 2 is muddy and faces look red
Are you using a spectro? It's clearly way too blue and green at warm 1. To meet those coordinates on warm 1, my TV 2 point high is set at red+9, green-6, blue -10. The red faces will always be there unless you calibrate to .308, .313
 

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Yes, I use a calibration probe and I have used all the alternative calibration points, 300 327 has more green and blue than red but I think it is a good compromise to reduce the metameric
Right, but my point is that it's not accurate or anywhere near .300,.327. I had to adjust it quite a bit. It definitely looks better than d65
 

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When calibrating HDR you most definitely do not turn the color to wide. You use normal, as the tv knows what color space you're using. With movies it's usual dci-p3 in a rec2020 container.
Yes. I wouldn't set it to wide nor did I suggest that he did willingly (he wasn't asking about calibration). I was reassuring him that if when viewing content, he looks at the menu and it is locked out but reads "wide", he should not worry, because it's whatever Dolby set. But re-reading it I can see my post was ambiguous; so I will edit it.

[Edit: done!]
 

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I found the Dolby and LG recommended .308,.313 to be the best..
Interesting. Where did you get that information?

mine has come with 299 326 very close, maybe I would have to perfect it a bit but I think it is very close
My Technicolor warm1 is also close - about .300/.328 but varies a bit more below 25% stimulus. That being said, I don't use it, it seems off to me, but to each his own.

EDIT: I found that .308/.313 article referenced on another site. I might try it and see what it looks like, but only 13 "reliable" observers were used to compare OLED to a Grade-1 CRT? It is also quite different than what some of the top calibrators here on AVS came up in another thread.
 

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hey, just got the 5.10.03 update for my tv, but since i cant find the Lg c8 usa firmware page anymore, im a bit skeptical about applying this -- id like to also know what the changes were

thanks guys

Of course. This is a FAQ. Repost: for people who keep referring to "the Korean firmware", "the Canadian firmware", "the American firmware" - there is no such thing. Also taking firmware from a country of choice - won't work, unless you pick one of the correct countries.

It is "the firmware for Korean and Canadian and American models". It's the exact same file that is flashed to ALL of them, very easily proven with hash checks and comparing them. There's only really 2 or 3 different chassis in the whole world.

The only thing that is different between the 3 web-pages is that that file has been linked from some of them and not others of them.
 

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Can we say 05.10.03 is likely the last firmware for the C8.
 

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