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Very few makers support that. If you used a more advanced control system that used serial or IP to control the TV you could probably handle it, but no magic remote cursor stuff that way.

Strangely I was under the impression that the LG remote did most things by RF not IR, so I am actually surprised if there is much interference between them.
In the menus:
General -> About this TV -> Set ID: has a slider from 1 to 99.

I thought that changing the IDs so that they were different numbers allowed more than 1 TV to be in the same room?

TiVo has had a similar option since it first launched in 1999! That's 20 years ago. Should be common, disappointing that it isn't.
 

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Just got off the phone with LG support about my two LG TV's in the same room. I have a 65" C8 as my main set and a 43" I use as a computer monitor. Both have magic remotes. I asked if there is a way to control each TV individaully. They said to control your LG TV's in the same room cover one side of your remote facing the other TV. You got to be kidding me??? Apparently no one at LG thought you might have more than one LG TV in the same room??? No codes to change the operation of the remote or to pair it with just one TV. Totally lame, IMO. If anybody can come up with a better solution please let me know?
Did you try the Remote ID settings under General > About this TV?
 

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And its disappeared from the US site again. :rolleyes:

The changelog only mentions Disney+ fix.
 
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Just got off the phone with LG support about my two LG TV's in the same room. I have a 65" C8 as my main set and a 43" I use as a computer monitor. Both have magic remotes. I asked if there is a way to control each TV individaully. They said to control your LG TV's in the same room cover one side of your remote facing the other TV. You got to be kidding me??? Apparently no one at LG thought you might have more than one LG TV in the same room??? No codes to change the operation of the remote or to pair it with just one TV. Totally lame, IMO. If anybody can come up with a better solution please let me know?
lol, I feel your pain but as noted you are probably stuck.....
 

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I have no idea what kind of metadata games are sending to the TV but if it's ≤1000 then the C8 does (almost?) hard clip, I doubt you would see a difference... :)



Exactly, like B8 does.
And the graph was exactly like ours on the C9 with HGIG on (in Vincent's video).
Depending on the game it can be 1000, 4000 or 10000 nits. So yes for games that top out at 1000 nits it doesn't much matter but for others it can to avoid the in-game/console tone mapping you are doing in the settings + the tv further tone mapping that.
 

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Finally had my 77C8 calibrated yesterday. I purchased my C8 mid July 2019. Total hours on TV at time of calibration was 665 Hours.



Upon my original setup, I used the settings suggested on RTINGS.com. I have to be honest here, I thought the RTINGS recommended settings yielded an impressive picture in SDR but my HDR and Dolby Vision were way to bright.



I contacted Jason Dustal in the beginning of August who then connected me with Kevin Miller. Kevin Miller able to fit me in his schedule for October/November time-frame. Yesterday was the day! Kevin's equipment included a Klein K-series Meter, the Murideo 6G Generator, a few other trinkets and the CalMAN software.



His first task was setting up the ISF Night Picture Mode using Warm2 color temp and BT1886 gamma. When I saw my pre-calibration settings (from RTINGS.com) I was dumbfounded. Even though RTINGS yielded a "pretty good" picture, the readings of RGB needed some adjusting, especially the Red. He then proceeded to calibrate the ISF Day mode, HDR10 and finally Dolby Vision.


He ended by ensuring that all my inputs (Apple TV 4K, Oppo, etc), including the LG apps, would default to the correct picture mode and explained when to use specific modes - ie. ISF Day.



Kevin is a fountain of knowledge. And in the end, the picture on my LG looks phenomenal and he provided me with a hard copy of my settings.


Feel free to ask any questions and I will try to answer them to the best of my ability.
 

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Depending on the game it can be 1000, 4000 or 10000 nits. So yes for games that top out at 1000 nits it doesn't much matter but for others it can to avoid the in-game/console tone mapping you are doing in the settings + the tv further tone mapping that.
Indeed. Another part of HGIG is the standardised setup engine on the console side.

If you do nothing, the HDMI handshake and EDID will tell the console you have an LG C8, and the console will look up the LG C8's default tone-map curves from its database, and tone-map in-game with a strategy knowing what your TV is going to do to it later.

If you don't like that default, you can then "tweak" the handling in the console's global HGIG setup screen (instead of having to do this inside each game), which will result in giving your console your personal LG C8's tone-curve threshold values for 1000, 4000, and 10,000 nits.

In both cases I think this means that the console will know the LG C8 doesn't have the "100% full hard-clip" mode that the C9 does (yet?), and can adjust itself to look correct.
 

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I think this was previously answered, but the C8 downconverts TrueHD (and Atmos) to DD+ only when it's the full THD+ac3 core track, or am I wrong? The Sony X700 has similar TrueHD playback issues with mkv. This means videos in mvk container (which strips the core) cannot be played back correctly. So that leaves m2ts files to be able to do: Source m2ts THD -> LG C8 -> DD+ -> AVR.
 

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Wanted to share my uniformity slide. About 15 hours use. 10% gray captured on iPhone. What do you guys think?
Wanted to share a Uniformity update. At 720 hours bands are barely noticeable anymore. Happy camper. 10% Gray on IPhone 01206F34-9241-4C27-AA6F-76104A8A679C_1573342052925.jpg
 
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Hi all,
I've had my c8 for about 7 months and while I love it, the aggressive asbl dark scene dimming is getting increasingly on my nerves. I've watched a few horror movies where it doesn't take long for the picture to dim to the point of being almost unwatchable. I've been reading up on the process on how to disable it and it seems easy enough : service remote- in start- 13. oled - set tpc to 0- exit. Before I try this, I was just wondering if anyone has run into any long term issues by doing so? I imagine it was enabled to begin with for some reason though I'm stumped as to what it might be. I understanding limiting a bright scene or static image for screen protection but why a dark one? . Thanks!
 

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Just noticing does the E8 tilt back slightly even though it is on the suppled stand?
Mine has maybe a degree or two of tilt but it's pretty much straight compared to the Sony OLED's so if your does lay back noticeably check that the screws in the stand are properly tightened and TV sits firmly on it's base.
 

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Hi all,
I've had my c8 for about 7 months and while I love it, the aggressive asbl dark scene dimming is getting increasingly on my nerves. I've watched a few horror movies where it doesn't take long for the picture to dim to the point of being almost unwatchable. I've been reading up on the process on how to disable it and it seems easy enough : service remote- in start- 13. oled - set tpc to 0- exit. Before I try this, I was just wondering if anyone has run into any long term issues by doing so? I imagine it was enabled to begin with for some reason though I'm stumped as to what it might be. I understanding limiting a bright scene or static image for screen protection but why a dark one? . Thanks!
I have it turned off now for 9 months (approximately 1000 hours ) and do not see any issues yet. I hardly watch TV channels with banners or logo’s though, but I do watch a lot movies on UHD discs with 2:35:1 ratio and Netflix (just HD). I do not use it for gaming and also not as a computer monitor.
 

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The top of my screen is approximately 8mm closer to the wall than the bottom.
There is only a slight lean back, not very noticable. What did you find when you followed @Paul Jarman's advice? That's all you need to do.
 

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I don’t have any problem with it And the tv is firmly fixed on the stand. 8mm is nothing. I just replied how it is with my C8. :)
Whoops, I got you mixed up with the questioner, sorry :)
 

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Hi all,
I've had my c8 for about 7 months and while I love it, the aggressive asbl dark scene dimming is getting increasingly on my nerves. I've watched a few horror movies where it doesn't take long for the picture to dim to the point of being almost unwatchable. I've been reading up on the process on how to disable it and it seems easy enough : service remote- in start- 13. oled - set tpc to 0- exit. Before I try this, I was just wondering if anyone has run into any long term issues by doing so? I imagine it was enabled to begin with for some reason though I'm stumped as to what it might be. I understanding limiting a bright scene or static image for screen protection but why a dark one? . Thanks!
Just be very careful entering the SM. That can be the quickest way to screw up or brick your tv. Some commands may change with firmware updates or even when the particular build was installed and qc'd. Most of us don't recommend entering the SM for anything so if you do, go slowly and cautiously.
 
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