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Agreed. These are my ATV4k settings and I have no issues regardless of source.


Enable Dolby Vision
Format - 4k SDR @60Hz HDMI Output - YCbCr
Chroma - 4:4:4

Match Content - Range & Frame Rate Match Dynamic Range - On
Match Frame Rate - On
I primarily use our Apple TV as well. I have noticed though that with the frame rate matching turned on, I get a flickering in certain scenes, even when the scene is paused. It actually threw me off a bit when first diagnosing the near-black macroblocking issue. I was seeing both combined.

I have seen similar reports posted elsewhere. But, I don't really notice the change from 24fps to 30/60fps with it turned off. So it's no big whoop.
 

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Being a network and systems person, I'm just a bit paranoid by habit. So I was just hoping that your upload could be compared independently to another person's copy of the file (that doesn't come from just downloading yours). So that the community can be confident that the file is the genuine one from LG.

Again, nothing personal. None of us know each other form Adam around here. And, again, I'm just being paranoid. But 100% assurance is nice to have. ;)
No worries, I totally get it. I am paranoid too, hence the VPN, Brave Browser ...... and Tor and tin foil under my cap when I really get weirded out.
 

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I primarily use our Apple TV as well. I have noticed though that with the frame rate matching turned on, I get a flickering in certain scenes, even when the scene is paused. It actually threw me off a bit when first diagnosing the near-black macroblocking issue. I was seeing both combined.

I have seen similar reports posted elsewhere. But, I don't really notice the change from 24fps to 30/60fps with it turned off. So it's no big whoop.
The flickering could be due to the macro blocking issue or your HDMI cables.
 

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The flickering could be due to the macro blocking issue or your HDMI cables.
I ran it down pretty thoroughly. here's one link. All cables have been replaced with monoprice certified ones (which alleviated some other unrelated intial setup things). And the macroblocking issue was unrelated.

It seems to be related to Apple TVs and OLEDs. But I don't think everyone experiences it, objectively, the same. Flicker can be very subjective. Much how some people don't notice Motion Pro flickering (due to black frame insertion) while others find it un-watchable.

--H
 

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Did u use the android app called "sure" to do the downgrade? I used that and mine went smoothly on the first try

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
I haven't downgraded yet but thinking I will when I get home. So I need to follow the LG instructions for a manual USB firmware update, but use the older file. Then this SURE Android app has some firmware update function in it that just runs off the plugged in USB? Have I got that all straight?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 

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I ran it down pretty thoroughly. here's one link. All cables have been replaced with monoprice certified ones (which alleviated some other unrelated intial setup things). And the macroblocking issue was unrelated.

It seems to be related to Apple TVs and OLEDs. But I don't think everyone experiences it, objectively, the same. Flicker can be very subjective. Much how some people don't notice Motion Pro flickering (due to black frame insertion) while others find it un-watchable.

--H

That's unfortunate. We have zero issues between our ATV4k and the 65 C8. Same for the ATV4 and the LCD downstairs.


Hmmm, I just looked at that article and it is from 2016 so maybe there have been some improvements made on either the Apple side or LG side.
 

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I noticed that some members are asking for the older 4.10.15 version of the C8 software. Wasn’t that last version 4.10.20?
Correct and it mainly contains a fix for BBC iPlayer DVB-DASH streams, so in America it wasn't really relevant.
"1. Improvement
1) To improve that HLG toast does not pop up when playing certain MPEG DASH streams. "
To all the people furiously downgrading, all you need to do is remain on the new firmware but bump up the 5% brightness (as explained many many many times) and your dark detail will be back how it was. You'll also get the rewritten near-black colour dithering and the absence of near-black chroma overshoot.

pic by @jk82

 

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Correct and it mainly contains a fix for BBC iPlayer DVB-DASH streams, so in America it wasn't really relevant.





To all the people furiously downgrading, all you need to do is remain on the new firmware but bump up the 5% brightness (as explained many many many times) and your dark detail will be back how it was. You'll also get the rewritten near-black colour dithering and the absence of near-black chroma overshoot.



pic by @jk82





Seriously not that hard to do. Don’t understand what the fuss is about


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Correct and it mainly contains a fix for BBC iPlayer DVB-DASH streams, so in America it wasn't really relevant.


To all the people furiously downgrading, all you need to do is remain on the new firmware but bump up the 5% brightness (as explained many many many times) and your dark detail will be back how it was. You'll also get the rewritten near-black colour dithering and the absence of near-black chroma overshoot.

pic by @jk82


Do you mind explaining again on how to do that? I don't know how to calibrate, but I'd like to do what you're describing.
 

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I pretty much have OCD so I try to avoid calibrating anything by eye lol. If someone gives me a value to try I will do that before downgrading firmware.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 

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Here's a curiosity. . .

The picture modes for viewing slides/videos from a USB stick are apparently a separately stored bunch of settings than the picture mode settings for the built-in apps like Netflix, Amazon Prime, etc.

I adjusted things according to the slides from the USB stick expecting them to apply to built-in apps. But they don't. Oh well. . . I use my Apple TV for all that stuff anyways. Was just being thorough.
 

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Here's my post on it. Make sure you set your regular ol' brightness setting optimally first. You can do that with the black clipping pattern via the AVS Calibration Test Patterns.
The thing I had an issue with in regards to the brightness setting is that I couldn't be certain I wasn't raising the true black level. Granted it's hard to tell, but I could've sworn that even raising it one or two levels was changing the true black. I was using the same mp4 file as you in a very dark room.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 

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I'm baaaack...but, you didn't even know I was gone, eh?

Well, I moved to a donwsized home into an apartment . The move went flawlessly, and both my 65" and 77" received loving white-glove treatment from the movers.

Now...I have not caught up entirely to the thread having been offline for more than a week. But I have upgraded to 04.10.31 firmware. Doing so it reverted my settings to all defaults and changed the C8s to Standard picture mode. I was nonplussed, until I switched to Technicolor Expert and saw all of my preferred settings for SD put back to defaults. However, looking closely and very critically, compared to what I was seeing with the previous firmware and my preferred settings for SD, I gotta say, WOW the new firmware makes a tremendous difference in picture image at default settings. My last favorite preferences no longer looked better than the default settings. The Tech Exp default settings for SD looked better by miles.

Then I played a little bit more with default settings in Tech Exp for SD by changing to 20 Point IRE 5 and adjusting the luminance bit by bit until I settled on 10 being the best blacks I have ever seen. No ifs, ands or buts about it. AWESOME blacks.

I also however upped the Brightness and the Color to 52 each and set the White Balance back to 2 Point in order to increase the Low Red and Blue to +2. Voila! AWESOME shadow detail with AWESOME blacks and eye popping colors.

Easy peasy "calibration" perfection! These C8s are unbelievable.


:D
 

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4:4:4 doesn't work correctly unless you use PC mode. If you're using HDR it downscales the image to 8 bit. Don't use 4:4:4

https://youtu.be/qdjr8hFzLO8

Interesting. I hadn't noticed a difference in pq. The clarity was fine, even when using Airplay and streaming from my laptop. I'll just set it back to 4:2:0 and call it even.
 

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Hi C8 owners,


I've been considering upgrading to a C8 from a Samsung PNF8500, but have a few concerns. First is motion. I realize this is subjective and the general consensus is that in general plasmas handle motion better than OLEDs, although the degree to which it does so and whether it's discernible is very subjective. Another concern is settings overkill. I currently have my Samsung (not calibrated) set on cinema, it holds its own in a room that doesn't get much afternoon sun and shines in dim lighting. In researching all the terms and acronyms BFI and SOE and True Motion and Pro Motion - I understand what they mean, but they're making my head spin. Most of the content I view is on my Dish receiver and streaming Neflix and Prime. For someone who wants improved picture quality (assuming the motion issues aren't discernible to my eyes) and probably wouldn't tinker with settings too much, do you think the C8 is a worthwhile upgrade?
 

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To all the people furiously downgrading, all you need to do is remain on the new firmware but bump up the 5% brightness (as explained many many many times) and your dark detail will be back how it was. You'll also get the rewritten near-black colour dithering and the absence of near-black chroma overshoot.
Just to confirm, this fix only applies to SDR content, correct?
 
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