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Did you calibrate with BFI ON in any PM?
In SDR Game mode only. I do have the latest firmware too, though the tv has never been factory reset (we did unplug it for HDR Game because the 1D it was doing for EOTF tracking and grayscale was absolutely wildly off, and could never get it to work). I think full reset and power cycling might be needed, set has over 2700 hours.
 

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In SDR Game mode only. I do have the latest firmware too, though the tv has never been factory reset (we did unplug it for HDR Game because the 1D it was doing for EOTF tracking and grayscale was absolutely wildly off, and could never get it to work). I think full reset and power cycling might be needed, set has over 2700 hours.
I would not try and calibrate with BFI On or if you do, calibrate it manually.
 

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I would not try and calibrate with BFI On or if you do, calibrate it manually.
The problem on the 8 series OLEDs is that you can't calibrate game mode manually, it has that cut down menu options without white balance controls, they changed that for 9 series forward.
 

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Hi,

I did a while ago a SDR grayscale calibration on my B8. I did not to any color adjustment as I read that this can introduce a lot of artifacts if one does not know exactly which controls are allowed to adjusted in wich range.
However, I sill wonder which out-of-box color setting is best? Is the default Color 50 + Gamut Auto fine?
For the B7, D-nice stated once Color 46 with extended works better and Chad B recommended Color 53, Tint r3-5 with Auto. Any suggestions for the B8?

Which are the recommended settings for color temperature, color and gamut in HDR and DV? I will use the Cinema or Technicolor-preset.

For HDR the default color temperature in Cinema-preset seems to be Warm2 but for the Technicolor-preset it is Warm1. Which one is closer to D65?
The default vor DV in Cinema is Warm2, is this the best for DV?
 

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However, I sill wonder which out-of-box color setting is best? Is the default Color 50 + Gamut Auto fine?
For the B7, D-nice stated once Color 46 with extended works better and Chad B recommended Color 53, Tint r3-5 with Auto. Any suggestions for the B8?
Nope, not from me anyway. I would leave it on colour 50 + Gamut Auto unless you have a meter + software. The exception being Game mode, which is unfortunately locked to "wide" gamut, so you have to dial back colour to something like 46-47 to get it back down to correct for rec 709.

Which are the recommended settings for color temperature, color and gamut in HDR and DV? I will use the Cinema or Technicolor-preset.

For HDR the default color temperature in Cinema-preset seems to be Warm2 but for the Technicolor-preset it is Warm1. Which one is closer to D65?
The default vor DV in Cinema is Warm2, is this the best for DV?
Easy answer to all the above. The closest to D65 is Warm2, and that answer applies for all 3 sets of SDR, HDR10/HLG and Dolby Vision modes. The out-of-the box calibration should be very close to D65 when you set to Warm2 (or "W50" in the crappy modes which only have scale from Warm50-Cool50).

Technicolor-Warm1 is a special colour temperature, completely unsuitable for use in the home. We've been told that it is matched with a Xenon DCI Cinema Projector for use by colourists grading for that system. It's bonkers that Warm1 is the default for Technicolor, but there you go. Try it if you like, it's "different" :)
 

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The problem on the 8 series OLEDs is that you can't calibrate game mode manually, it has that cut down menu options without white balance controls, they changed that for 9 series forward.
Yeah same for me on LG C8, that game mode is a pain to calibrate.
I've tried Autocal all the way, results are so so, since it is known to bypass the service menu white balance corrections I have done.
Btw, is it better to do that SM WB at 109% white or 80% IRE? I've read both and I don't know which one is better.

I am thinking about doing a factory reset, then skip Greyscale balance and just to Autocal for the 3D LUT. Maybe it would work better?
What is the method you guys would use here? Just to calibrate game mode on C8, using i1Display pro, raw xyz in Calman.
 

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Nope, not from me anyway. I would leave it on colour 50 + Gamut Auto unless you have a meter + software. The exception being Game mode, which is unfortunately locked to "wide" gamut, so you have to dial back colour to something like 46-47 to get it back down to correct for rec 709.



Easy answer to all the above. The closest to D65 is Warm2, and that answer applies for all 3 sets of SDR, HDR10/HLG and Dolby Vision modes. The out-of-the box calibration should be very close to D65 when you set to Warm2 (or "W50" in the crappy modes which only have scale from Warm50-Cool50).

Technicolor-Warm1 is a special colour temperature, completely unsuitable for use in the home. We've been told that it is matched with a Xenon DCI Cinema Projector for use by colourists grading for that system. It's bonkers that Warm1 is the default for Technicolor, but there you go. Try it if you like, it's "different" :)
Thank you so much. A few follow up questions :).

Is Technicolor-warm2 ok or should I avoid technicolor completly and stick to Cinema?

Gamut in DV seems to be locked to „wide“. In HDR it is not, is here Auto the best?

Whats about sharpening. It seems to be 10 for all modesby default. I tend to play only HQ content and have switched off all enhancement options. so I set sharpenes to 0 as well. I just wondering if sharpness 10 is perhaps “no sharpening“ and 0 actually softens the picture?
 

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Thank you so much. A few follow up questions :).
Sigh. :) ok!

Is Technicolor-warm2 ok or should I avoid technicolor completly and stick to Cinema?
It's fine, it'll be the same. Technicolor-warm1 is the odd one out of them all.

Gamut in DV seems to be locked to „wide“. In HDR it is not, is here Auto the best?
Yes Auto is always best for Gamut. It'll only be locked to wide in certain modes, eg Game.

Whats about sharpening. It seems to be 10 for all modesby default. I tend to play only HQ content and have switched off all enhancement options. so I set sharpenes to 0 as well. I just wondering if sharpness 10 is perhaps “no sharpening“ and 0 actually softens the picture?
This is a FAQ and keeps coming back, but obviously you are asking for the first time.
Default 10 provides some anti-aliasing/smoothing/sharpening.
Zero doesn't soften it. Zero is "no processing".
On all LG OLEDs, ZERO is the only value for Sharpness which doesn't process the picture in some artificial way.

Proof which has been posted numerous times on this thread and others, but again. Don't take my work for it, put up your own 4K test patterns (not upscaled 1080p ones) and look closely :)

3060661

3060660


Look at how sharpness=10 turns these arrows into just blobs, and corrupts the bottom right of the 4 in "240" so that it joins with the 0 to the right of it. Awful.
HTH
 

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@mrtickleuk. Thank you very much for your detailed answer!



I did some time a service menu 2point calibration as my display was exchanged without recalibration. I used SDR patterns (rPi), HCFR with a i1Display pro for this and adjusted Gain and Cut.

My result: Warm 192, 182, 124, 64, 63, 62

So I lowered G and B for Gain and Cut. Would it be better to raise instead of lower for cut?

I wondering because for DV I have to lower brightness to 48 to get a true black (dynamic tone mapping is off) in serval Netflix/Disney+ series. I don’t have any DV patterns to check with these.
For HDR, I had to lower brightness to 49 to avoid OLED glimming using a black test pattern. For SDR brightness 51 works best as glimming starts at 52.

Would DV benefit if I would calibrate Cold in service menu using HDR10 patterns (the free ones posted here. I do not have a HDFury) and than using Cold in HDR and DV? Or should I stick with service menu SDR and doing an additional 2 point wb at least for HDR?

I am still on the old firmware due to the black crush issues with the newer ones. To my knowledge this is still not fixed. However, it would be nice to be able to use the Disney and AppleTv app. Therefore, I was thinking to update the firmware, bevor doing a new calibration. Will a proper SDR calibration fix the black crush with the recent firmware? But what about HDR and DV? I don’t have to software/hardware to do a complete calibration or an autocal for these modes. Any advice regarding the firmware?


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Update:

Found a DV ”black” test pattern and did some more testing. It seems for DV and HDR the oled glimming goes away as well if I set contrast to 99 and leave brightness at 50. One the DV pattern are two dark gray bars as well. With this I can see both. With contrast 100 and brightness 49, I see one, and with 48 none.
However, it is strange because the gray bars are not “constant”. I can see a “wave pattern” running from bottom to top. If I higher contrast, I can see this pattern moving a cross the complete screen. Only for DV. For HDR I never noticed this.
 

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Can one calibrate Dolby Vision white balance with the 20pt WB on the settings? I know for HDR10 that works differently
 

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2018 panels require the same alternate white as the 2019 and 2020 models (I even use the same one on my 2017 model).

If your calibrator has an i1 Pro 10nm Spectro, it will read the combination of the primaries differently when measuring white. While I still had an i1 Pro 2 in my possession, I measured those exact alternate white coordinates with the reference Spectro (0.309/0.329) and the i1 Pro 2 simultaneously, and the i1 Pro 2 recorded xy 0.3120/0.3356, thus making those the coordinates for an alternate white with that Spectro.

With the alternate white coordinates obtained, your calibrator will then profile his colorimeter (the Klein) to the spectro on your specific display, hence transferring the accuracy of one meter to the other.
Follow up question here, I'm finding targeting D65 leaves the image pushing red slightly (please correct me if that's the main reason why an alt white point is used). Now to try the i1 Pro alternative white point, no need profile is needed for the Klein right? I just have to target 0.3120/0.3356 when using the colorimeter to do the calibration?
 

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Follow up question here, I'm finding targeting D65 leaves the image pushing red slightly (please correct me if that's the main reason why an alt white point is used). Now to try the i1 Pro alternative white point, no need profile is needed for the Klein right? I just have to target 0.3120/0.3356 when using the colorimeter to do the calibration?
It is entirely possible that what you perceive as “pushing red” actually isn’t, and it’s just a matter of you getting used to it. But yes, in general D65 does look a bit too red on WOLED compared to D65 on a plasma or other display tech so that’s why an alternative white is used.

I always create a new meter profile to the Spectro each and every session, even on the same display, but if you (or your calibrator) has already done it you can use the same .

However, as I previously said, the original i1 Pro Spectro you said he is using is a fairly old probe now so there is no knowing if it has drifted and by how much. It’s also been EOL for some time now so there’s no way it could have been sent in to X-Rite for recertification either. This means that anything you measure with it may, or may not be accurate.
 

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It is entirely possible that what you perceive as “pushing red” actually isn’t, and it’s just a matter of you getting used to it. But yes, in general D65 does look a bit too red on WOLED compared to D65 on a plasma or other display tech so that’s why an alternative white is used.

I always create a new meter profile to the Spectro each and every session, even on the same display, but if you (or your calibrator) has already done it you can use the same .

However, as I previously said, the original i1 Pro Spectro you said he is using is a fairly old probe now so there is no knowing if it has drifted and by how much. It’s also been EOL for some time now so there’s no way it could have been sent in to X-Rite for recertification either. This means that anything you measure with it may, or may not be accurate.
Yeah I had in my mind about what I'm perceiving as too red, most displays come out on the blue side out of the factory for their white point, so every time most people set it to the warm temperature closest to D65 they think it's too yellow/orange. I've never seen a properly calibrated display but I've been using the closest to D65 ootb settings since back to the standard def Sony Wega days so that doesn't bother me like it does most of the general public, so I'm hoping my eyes are better tuned to pick that up. At least from what I see it's a distinctively red push on grey, not yellow/orange, which tracks with what the issue is with D65 on WOLED.

Another thing I've noticed with football and The Touryst on the Xbox, is that grass has a way different hue now, it was probably too garish green before and now it's a less saturated, somewhat browner green (some of this is probably being impacted by the red push). My ootb impression of the tv is that it has a green tint, so that may be playing a part in the drastic shift in grass. For example Batman's suit in Batman Beyond was revelatory flipping back and forth, now it actually looked black, where as switching back to an uncalibrated mode the black suit had a green tinge to it.
 

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Hi,

I bought HDR10 and DV patterns from Diversified Video Solutions but i don't understand how you are supposed to calibrate the LG HDR ajustement points.

Can someone explain me clearly how it works in hcfr?
 

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In order for my Dolby Vision on my C8 to track eotf better I have to either lower the contrast or oled light. In my current calibration I lowered the contrast to 85 and it tracks pretty good. But problem is it lowers my peak brightness to 650 nits. While my HDR10 tracks really good with peak brightness at about 780 nits. Besides that, will lowering contrast in DV affect anything that I should know of? Would lowering the oled light below 50 be a better option?
 

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Besides that, will lowering contrast in DV affect anything that I should know of? Would lowering the oled light below 50 be a better option?
Yes it does, and unfortunately no :)
We have tested this recently and the only option is to wait for a fix from LG :) (maybe they will backport the recent CX DoVi fix to older models as well)
 

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Yes it does, and unfortunately no :)
We have tested this recently and the only option is to wait for a fix from LG :) (maybe they will backport the recent CX DoVi fix to older models as well)
I'm shock how DV tracks eotf so ****ty out of the box. Everything is so bright. Not may people have complained which is so odd. Only way to correct it in my case is to sacrifice 100+ nits....so sad.
 

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I'm shock how DV tracks eotf so ****ty out of the box. Everything is so bright. Not may people have complained which is so odd. Only way to correct it in my case is to sacrifice 100+ nits....so sad.
Do you have a graph of the default eotf curve?
 

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I was messing with Calman with DDC and the white balance is now greyed out. Anyone know how I can get it back???

Edit: I did a factory reset and it came back.
 

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Do you have a graph of the default eotf curve?
I don't have it, but it tracks as bad as a 77" c8 on obsessed garage youtube channel when he had a pro calibrator calibrate his tv. I guess it can be corrected on calman with auto cal but I don't use calman and autocal. All I do now is manual calibrate with Colourspace.
 
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